I 



J 



THE 



GREEN-HOUSE COMPANION; 



COMPRISING A 



GENERAL COURSE OF GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY 
PRACTICE THROUGHOUT THE YEAR; 

A NATURAL ARRANGEMENT OV THE 

PRINCIPAL GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS 

IN CULTIVATION : 

WITH A DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE 

OP THE 

MOST DESIRABLE TO FORM A COLLECTION, 
C^cir ^Proper 
MODES OF PROPAGATION, MANAGEMENT, 

AND 

REFERENCES TO BOTANICAL WORKS IN WHICH THEY ARE FIGURED. 

ALSO, 

THE PROPER TREATMENT OF FLOWERS IN ROOMS, 




AND BULBS IN WATER GLASSES. 



(/ THE THIRD EDITION. 



LONDON: 

WHITTAKER, TREACHER, AND CO., AVE-MARIA-LANK 

MDCCCXXXII. 



LONDON : 
Priated by Wiixiam Clowes, 
Stamford Street. 



PREFACE. 



A Green-house, which, fifty years ago, was a luxury not 
often to be met with, is now become an appendage to every 
villa, and to many town residences ; — not indeed one of the 
first necessity, but one which is felt to be appropriate and 
highly desirable, and which mankind recognise as a m.ark of 
elegant and refined enjoyment. 

The taste for these exotic gardens, indeed, has increased 
much more rapidly than the skill requisite to manage them 
to the best advantage, — for the progress of imitation is more 
rapid than that of knowledge ; and hence it is much more 
common to see a green-house, than to see one filled with a 
proper selection of plants in high health and beauty. 

The management of plants in a green-house requires a 
higher degree of knowledge than is called for in the ma- 
nagement of the open garden ; and though this knowledge 
is fast extending among the rising generation of gardeners, 
it is not yet in such abundance as to be general. 

The object of the Green-house Companion is to supply 
what is wanting in this respect, not only to gardeners, but to 
their employers. In composing it we have had in view the 
two-fold object of informing such gardeners as may not have 
attended much to this branch of their profession ; and of 
enlightening their employers so as they may not only be 
aware when their servant neglects his duty, or performs it 
properly or improperly ; but may, in the case of employing 
common labourers in their gardens, be able to direct all the 



VI 



PREFACE. 



operations themselves. The directions we have given, and 
the reasons for them are so ample, and so plain, that no lady 
or gentleman can be at a loss fully to comprehend them, or 
discern when they are properly acted on. 

Though we have chiefly had in view, in preparing these 
directions, the villa and town green-house, yet we have treated 
the subject of management so amply, and given so complete 
a catalogue of green-house plants, with all that it can be de- 
sirable to know as to their culture and management, that we 
have no hesitation in presenting our work as a treatise on 
green-house culture and management, as complete as the 
present state of things admits of We have composed it in 
conformity to the best written authorities, and according to 
what we have seen in our extensive observation and commu- 
nications with botanical cultivators and nursery-men in the 
neighbourhood of London and elsewhere. The work has 
also had the advantage of revisal by a nursery-man who is 
extensively engaged in the culture of green-house and hot- 
house plants at his commercial establishment in the King's 
Road. This gentleman's chief business is with exotics, and 
he supplies and manages town green-houses, and executes 
London contracts for plants in pots, to a considerable extent : 
he is, therefore, peculiarly fitted for the task he so obligingly 
undertook at the request of the publisher. To mention his 
name he considers would look like a partial advertisement. 

There is one advantage which this work possesses over 
every other of the kind, which, as it may not strike at first 
sight, we shall here point out. It is the arrangement of all 
the green-house plants of this country under the natural or- 
ders of the system of Jussieu. In our Introduction to that 
part of the work which contains this arrangement, (see 
Part II. page 229,) the benefits derivable from it are de- 
tailed, and we are here desirous of directing the reader's 
particular attention to the importance of grouping plants on 



PREFACE. 



Vll 



the green-house stage, or open garden platform, according to 
their natural affinities. Let us not be thought dogmatic in 
advising every master to insist on his gardener's adopting it 
as far as circumstances vi^ill allow. Whoever understands a 
httle of the natural system will find few difficulties; — but the 
prejudices of those who do not, will start thousands of obsta- 
cles. — Still, let the master insist on trying the plan; a 
thousand difficulties are often as easily overcome as they are 
created, — they lie chiefly in the mind, — and those minds 
which are prejudiced must be brought over by a counter- 
prejudice if they are very ignorant, or by reasoning if they 
are a little enlightened. The idea of natural arrangements 
is too new to be generally approved of, but it will soon be- 
come as familiar to the British gardener as the Linnsean 
system. Sweet's "Catalogue" has marked out the road, 
which will be formed and completed by Dr. Hooker's " Sys- 
tem," and Loudon's '^Encyclopaedia" of Plants. These 
works will establish and confirm our humble efforts ; in the 
meantime, we recommend the master to call in his gardener, 
and point out to him Part I. Chap. IL sect. 6, and the In- 
troduction to Part IL Let him thoroughly ponder what is 
there said, and afterwards they may come out to the green- 
house, where they will find us ready to show them how the 
thing may actually be done. 



London^ June 24, 1824. 



ADVERTISEMENT TO THE THIRD EDITION. 



The rapid sale of the two former Editions of the Green- 
house Companion is at once evidence of the growing in- 
terest attached to the subject^ and also, as the Author hopes 
he may be allowed to infer, of the satisfactory manner in 
which he has executed his task in the short treatise of which 
he now offers a Third Edition. It has been his endeavour 
to render the book worthy of the popularity it has acquired, 
by adding in this Edition such improvements as the progress 
of botanical science has rendered desirable to communicate 
in a popular treatise. 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

Introduction 1 

PART I. 

GENERA.L CULTURE AND MANAGEMENT OF THE GREEN-HOUSE 
AND CONSERVATORY. 

Chapter I. 

Of the situation, position, form, and construction of the Green- 



house and Conservatory 5 

Sect. 1. Situation 5 

Sect. 2. Position of the green-house ... 9 
Sect. 3. Form of the green-house . . . .11 
Sect. 4. Construction of the green-house . . 20 
Sect. 5. General remarks as to building or purchasing 
green-houses, &c 21 

Chapter II. 

Of stocking the green-house with plants and trees . . 23 
Sect. 1. Fruit-trees proper for a green-house . . 23 

Sect. 2. Climbers and twiners 29 

Sect. 3. Green-house plants in pots . . . .31 
Subsect. 1. Camellias . . . . . 33 

Subsect. 2. Heaths 35 

Subsect. 3. Geraniums 56 

Subsect. 4. The Citrus tribe . . . .71 
Subsect. 5. Various genera of woody green-house 

plants 75 

Subsect. 6. Succulents 92 



Subsect. 7. Bulbs 96 

b 



X 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

Sect. 4. Hardy and half-hardy plants that maybe admitted 

as ornaments of the green-house . . 105 

Sect. 5. Selection of plants proper for a conservatory, or 
green-house in which the plants are grown in 
beds and borders 118 

Sect. 6. Of the placing or arrangement of plants in a green- 
house . 122 



Chapter III. 

Of the general culture of green-house plants, and the manage- 
ment of the greenhouse throughout the year . .130 
Sect. 1. Of forming a stock of soils, pots, and other articles 

necessary for the culture of the green-house 130 
Sect. 2. Some general maxims of exotic culture . 138 
Sect. 3. Management of green-house plants in summer 149 
Sect. 4. Management of green-house plants in autumn 160 
Sect. 5. Management of green-house plants during winter 166 
Sect. 6. Management of green-house plants in spring 169 
Subsect. 1. Insects and diseases to which green- 
house plants are liable . . .170 
Subsect. 2. Propagation of green-house plants by 

seeds 180 

Subsect. 3. Propagation of green-house plants by 

cuttings 186 

Subsect. 4. Propagation of green-house plants by 
laying, marching, budding, and graft- 
ing 193 

Subsect 5. Propagation of green-house plants by 

their leaves 210 

Sect. 7. Of the management of the conservatory through- 
out the year 212 

Sect. 8. Management of town green-houses, and of plants 

in chambers, cabinets, and at routs . . . 215 
Sect. 9. Management of bulbs in water-glasses . 224 



CONTENTS. 



xi 



PART 11. 

ORDERS OF THE NATURAL SYSTEM, WHICH INCLUDES THE 
PRINCIPAL GREEN-HOUSE AND FRAME-PLANTS NOW IN 



CULTIVATION. 




Ranunculaceae, 235 


Rutacese, 301 


Dilleniacese, 236 


Celastrinese, 304 


Magnoliacess, 237 


lereuintnacese, 304 


Berberidese, 238 


Rhamneae, 307 


]Vl6nispGrnia,CG86, 238 


jjruniacese, ovo 


iv-ruciierse, zoo 


LeguminossB, 309 


Resedacese, 242 


Rosaceae, 322 


Passiflorese, 243 


Salicarese, 324 


ViolaresG, 244 


MelastomacesR, 324 


v^lSIinceB, 


iviyriacese, ozo 


DroseracesG, 247 


Cucurbit^ceae, 327 


Lineae, 247 


Loasese, 328 


CaryophyllesB, 248 


Onagraria, 328 


Tremandrese, 248 


Ficoideae, 329 


MalvacesD, 250 


Grassul^cea6j 333 


Ternstreemiacese, 254 


Portulaceae, 334 


Byttneracese, 255 


Cacteae, 335 


Tiliacese, 259 


Saxifrageae, 335 


Sapindacese, 259 


Cunoniaceae, 336 


Pittosporese, 259 


Araliaceae, 336 


Hypericineae, 261 


Caprifoliaceae, 336 


Tropseoleae, 264 


Umbelli ferae, 336 


Elseoc^rpesR, 264 


Compositae, 337 


Ochnacese, 264 


Rubiaceae, 346 


Oxalideae, 265 


Chlorantheae, 347 


Geraniacese, 267 


Dipsaceae, 349 


Meliacese, 298 


Gentianeae, 349 


Camelliese, 298 


Campanulaceae, 350 


Aurantiacese, 299 


Lobeliaceae, 350 


Zygophyllese, 300 


Stylideae, 351 



Xll 



CONTENTS. 



Ericese, 351 
Peneaeeae, 358 
Epacridese, 359 
Myrsinese, 356 
Ebenacese, 360 
Oleinese, 360 
Jasmineae, 361 
Verbenacese, 361 
Asclepiadeae, 362 
Apocy'neae, 362 
Cobseacese, 363 
Bignoniacese, 363 
Polemoniacese, 363 
Convolvulacea, 363 
Boragineae, 364 
Solanese, 365 
Scrophularinae, 366 
Labiatse, 368 
Myoporinese, 370 
Acanthaceae, 371 
Lentibulareae, 371 
Primulaceae, 371 
Globulariae, 371 
Plumbaginese, 371 
Nyctagineae, 372 
Amaranth^ceae, 372 
Chenopodeae, 372 
Polygoneae, 373 
Laurinae, 373 
Proteaceae, 374 



Thymelse'ae, 377 
Santalaceas, 378 
Elaeagneae, 378 
Asarinae, 378 
Euphorbiaceae, 379 
Ulmaceae, 380 
Urticeae, 380 
Amentaceae, 381 
Coniferae, 381 
Alism^ceae. 382 
Orchideae, 382 
Irideae, 383 
Haemodaraceae, 386 
Amaryllideae, 386 
Hemerocallideae, 388 
Smilaceae, 389 
Tulipaceae, 390 
Bromeliaceae, 390 
Asphodilese, 390 
Hypoxideae, 394 
Melanthaceae, 395 
RestiacesB, 395 
Commelineae, 395 
Canneae, 395 
Scitamineae, 395 
Cyperaceae, 396 
Aroideae, 396 
Gramineae, 396 
Fluviales, 396 
Filiceae, 396 



ABBREVIATIONS. 

A. H. Andrews's Heaths. 

A. B. Andrews's Botanical Repository. 
L. C. Loddige's Botanical Cabinet. 

B. M. Botanical Magazine. 
B. R. Botanical Register. 
S. G. Sweet's Geraniaceae. 



THE 

GREEN.HOUSE COMPANION. 



INTRODUCTION. 

The most refined enjoyments of society have gra- 
dually arisen from desires more simple, and even from 
wants. Man is fond of living beings, and after assem- 
bling those plants around him which he found neces- 
sary for food, he would select such as were agreeable 
to the eye, or fragrant to the smell. A flower in the 
open parterre, though beautiful and gay, has yet some- 
thing less endearing, and is less capable of receiving 
especial regard, than a plant in a pot, which thus 
acquires a sort of locomotion; and becomes, as it 
were, thoroughly domesticated. After choice things 
were planted in pots, things rare v/ould be planted 
in them ; and from things rare to things foreign 
and tender, the transition would be natural and easy. 
Tender rare plants in pots would be taken into the 
house for shelter, and set near the window for light, 
and hence the origin of the Green-house. 

B 



2 



INTRODUCTION. 



In what age of the world, and in what country a 
green-house first appeared, it is impossible to deter- 
mine ; it is sufficient to have shown that a taste for 
this appendage to a dwelling is natural to man ; to 
experience that it adds to his enjoyments ; and to feel 
that it bestows a certain claim to distinction on its 
possessor. A green-house is in a peculiar degree 
the care of the female part of a family, and forms an 
interesting scene of care and recreation to a mother 
and her daughters, at a season of the year when there 
is but little inducement to walk in the kitchen- 
garden, and nothing to do in the parterre or the 
shi'ubbery. The progress of vegetation, interesting 
in all scenes, and at all seasons, is more especially so 
in a green-house during winter. There the objects 
are of limited number, brought near the eye by their 
position, and rendered striking by their contrast with 
the cold, naked, and dreary scenes which are shut 
out : — then it is that the genial climate, the life and 
growth, the deep tone of verdure, and the prevailing 
stillness of repose within, cause this winter garden 
to be felt as a luxuriant consecration to man. 

But all green-houses do not yield the enjoyments 
which a green-house is calculated to produce; be- 
cause all are not well contrived, or judiciously ma- 
naged for that purpose. Some do not know what a 
green-house will, and what it will not afford ; and 
others expect all its peculiar enjoyments without their 
accompanying cares. Some erect a green-house of 
such a form and position, that the plants within can 



INTRODUCTION. 



3 



never prosper ; others in sucli a situation, relatively 
to the house, that if they prosper they can never be 
enjoyed ; and not a few think they have done every- 
thing when they have completed the construction, 
stocked it with plants, and committed it to the future 
care of a house servant or mere out-door labourer. 

But a green-house, if it is to be worth anything, 
must not be trifled with in this manner. It is entirely 
a work of art : the plants inclosed are in the most 
artificial situation in which they can be placed, and 
require constant and unremitting attention to coun- 
teract the tendency of that artificial state to destroy 
them. It is a common notion that a plant in a pot is 
in a safer state than a plant in the open ground ; but 
this is a most erroneous notion, and directly the re- 
verse of the fact. Placing plants in pots is often 
more convenient for the cultivator; but it always 
checks and counteracts the natural habits of the 
plant : it checks the extension of the roots, and, by 
consequence, of the shoots ; and it subjects these 
roots to be alternately deluged by water, and dried 
up for want of it, — and all this under the best ma- 
nagement. Under a careless gardener, if the pots 
are not properly drained, and this drainage kept in 
repair, the soil will be kept soaked in water till the 
roots are rotted ; or by neglecting to shift the plants 
to pots of a larger size at proper seasons, the roots 
will get matted, so as to derive no benefit from the 
soil, preclude the water from entering, and thus first 
stint and then kill the plant. But plants in a green- 

B2 



4 



INTRODUCTION. 



house are not only in an artificial and injurious state 
as to the soil, but also as to their climate, and espe- 
cially as to heat, light, and air. These requisites to 
vegetation require also to be particularly attended to, 
so as partly to imitate nature, and partly to effect 
particular purposes of art on natural principles. 
Finally, it must be obvious, that where there is so 
much art, there must be a greater tendency to disease 
and accident than in ordinary nature ; and conse- 
quently, that no small degree of vigilance is required 
in this respect. 

Let none, however, feel alarmed at these obsta- 
cles, or imagine that by a moderate degree of care 
and attention all these evils may not be avoided, and 
the enjoyments of the green-house fully obtained. 
It is the object of this little work to enter into the 
details of the subject in such a way, as may enable 
any lady or gentleman, with the assistance of a foot- 
man or common labourer, to manage their own green- 
house as completely as if they employed a regularly 
bred and skilful gardener. 

We shall first offer some suggestions as to the 
form and construction of green-houses ; next, treat 
of their general management ; and lastly, enter into 
the details of culture applicable to the plants to be 
grown in them. 



CHAPTER 1. 



OF THE SITUATION, POSITION, FORM, AND CONSTRUCTION 
OF THE GREEN-HOUSE. 

Sect. I. Situation. 

According to our ideas of the enjoyments of the 
green-house, it is essential that it be situated close to 
the house ; not merely near, but immediately adjoin- 
ing ; and attached to it either by being placed against 
it, forming a part of the edifice ; or by means of a 
corridore, veranda, or some other description of co- 
vered passage. The most desirable situation is 
unquestionably that in which the green-house (fig. 1. 
Gr.) shall communicate with, and form as it were 



Fig. 1. 



j ^ 






1 




t 




r L 






TAl 1 











an additional apartment to the library, or breakfast- 
parlour. If it communicates by spacious glass 
doors, and the parlour is judiciously furnished with 
mirrors, and bulbous flowers in water-glasses, the 
effect will be greatly heightened, and growth, ver- 



6 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



dure, gay colours, and fragrance, blended with books, 
sofas, and all the accompaniments of social and 
polished life. 

The next best situation is where the green-house 
communicates with the drawing-room, to which, by 
evening illumination, it may lend the same charms as 
to the morning-room. 

The next best is where the green-house communi- 
cates with the porch, entrance -hall, saloon, or billiard- 
room (fig. 2. Gr.) ; and in this case, when the en- 
trance to a house is from the north, a noble conserva- 
tory or green-house may be projected from the south 
front, and seen and enjoyed from the windows or 
glass-doors of the rooms on each side the entrance 
hall. 

Fig. 2. 




Sometimes the green-house is placed against a 
wall, or some of the appendage buildings of the 
house, and is communicated with by a glazed pas- 
sage from the library or drawing-room ; or by a pas- 
sage inclosed with lattice-work on the south-side, a 
wall on the north, and the roof glazed. Various 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



7 



passages of this sort may be contrived to connect the 
green-house with the living-rooms of a house ; but 
when practicable, it is always preferable to have this 
structure in direct communication with one or more 
of the principal rooms, so as it may be seen from 
them as well as walked into. A green-house, how- 
ever excellent and well managed, if it cannot be seen 
and entered without going into the open air, can never 
afford half its appropriate enjoyments during the 
winter season. Where the green-house is merely a 
nursery or reserve of plants to supply the flower- 
stages of the dwelling-rooms, or to grow various plants 
for the botanist, it signifies little where it is situated 
in regard to the house ; but such is not the sort of 
winter garden to which we are more particularly 
directing attention. 

It is necessary, before proceeding further, to notice 
an objection which is made by medical men to plac- 
ing the green-house against the windows of living- 
rooms. It is stated, that the moisture, which must 
necessarily be kept in the atmosphere of the green- 
house in order to ensure the health of the plants, is 
injurious to the health of animals ; and that this 
moist atmosphere, every time the windows or glass- 
doors are opened, must necessarily interchange 
with that of the room. This is unquestionably 
the case ; and therefore we particularly recommend 
that no living-room should depend for its ventila- 
tion on such of its windows as may communicate 
with a green-house. This, as may be observed by 



8 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



recurring to the figures (pages 5 and 6), is not 
the case in the plans which we have given as 
among the best, and it never need happen in any 
plan. Where a room is lighted from two sides, one 
side may look into the green-house without inter- 
change of air, and the other may be devoted to ven- 
tilating the room. Where a room is lighted from 
one side only, and there are two or more windows, 
one of them may look into the green-house, and the 
other, or other two, may be used for light and ven- 
tilation. 

But how are we to get over the difficulty of open- 
ing even one of the windows of a room into a green- 
house, and thereby interchanging more or less the 
two atmospheres ? It must be acknowledged that 
this difficulty cannot be got completely over, and all 
the advantages of the communication retained. By 
double glass-doors, and a space between forming a 
sort of porch, and by having this porch separately 
ventilated, there would be little danger of interchang- 
ing atmospheres ; but then the double glasses would 
greatly impede the view ; and having two doors to 
open instead of one, before entering the green-house, 
is also a drawback to its enjoyments. The evil, such 
as it is, must, we fear, be submitted to, especially as 
it is not a great one ; for it is not said that the air of 
a green-house is unwholesome, but merely that it is 
more charged with vapour than the common air of a 
a room : — in other words, that a given volume of such 
air inhaled, will afford less oxygen to the blood than 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



9 



air not so much impregnated with moisture. When 
it is considered how small a portion of air would be 
interchanged, and how large a portion of very dry air 
the small volume of moist air would have to mingle 
with, the injury to the atmosphere of the room may 
be considered as very small indeed : — add, that in 
many cases, and especially where there was a ten- 
dency to pulmonary consumption, it would be reckoned 
favourable rather than otherwise. Wherever a few 
plants in pots, or bulbs in water-glasses, are kept in 
a room, the same objection may be raised ; for though 
the surface of the pots and glasses may be completely 
covered with moss to lessen evaporation, yet that co- 
vering is far from being able to prevent it. How- 
ever, those whose scruples as to health will not allow 
them to open into their green-houses from a sitting- 
room, may still look into them from thence, and, 
fixing the glazed casements that separate their at- 
mospheres, may enter by some exterior communica- 
tion to a more intimate enjoyment of the winter 
garden. 

Sect. IL Position of the Green-house. 

The position of the green-house is the next point 
of consideration. The south south-east is unques- 
tionably the best, and corresponds also with the best 
position for a breakfasting-room, which ought to 
embrace the morning sun, and invite to go abroad. 
But this, though preferable both for the plants, from 



10 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



which it dries up the damps generated during the 
night, and for the illumination of their foliage and 
flowers to the spectators in the living-room, is not the 
only position. Direct south is nearly as good ; and 
east, and from that any point to south-west, will an- 
swer well. A west aspect has least beauty at that 
time of the day when it is most wanted ; it is in the 
shade all the morning, and especially in the mornings 
of winter, when what is in shade is cold, moist, and 
uninviting. Besides, a green-house with a west or 
even south-west aspect, requires much more fuel to 
keep it heated, than one in any other aspect. 

A green-house is sometimes placed in an angle or 
recess of a house, in whose architecture there are 
several breaks. This, other circumstances being 
favourable, answers very well where the exposure is 
to the south ; but when the aspect is east or west 
it is worse than any, because during winter the 
influence of the sun is little felt before eleven, or 
after two o'clock, and between eleven and two very 
few of his rays would fall on an eastern or western 
surface. In short, south, and south south-east, as we 
have said before, are the only aspects for a green- 
house to be enjoyed as a winter garden. A green- 
house to be supplied with a succession of forced 
plants from pits and stoves, may be put in any position, 
and if expense of fuel is no object, may even front 
the north ; but this is a sort of green-house attended 
with greater expense than is contemplated by our 
present views of the subject. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



11 



Sect. III. Form of the Green-house. 

The form of the green-house comes next in order, 
and depends on various considerations, as to mode of 
culture, harmony with the architecture of the house 
light, heat, air, rain, &c. 

There are two modes of cultivating plants in 
green-houses : one, and the most usual mode, is, 
by growing them in pots ; and the other is by 
growing them in beds or borders of soil, as shrubs 
or other plants and trees in a shrubbery. When 
this last mode is adopted, the magnitude of the 
structure is required to be larger than for a green- 
house of pots, and the form must be such as to admit 
of the roof being removed in the summer season, to 
give the plants the benefit of the direct influence of 
the sun and the weather. It is of importance to be 
impressed with this fact, that unless the roof of a 
conservatory can be, and is removed every summer, 
the plants within will soon become naked and un- 
sightly below ; nor will any mode of pruning or cut- 
ting down prevent this result of the want of air, 
wind, and the direct influence of the sun. As straight 
lines, whether in metal or timber, are easier put 
together, or separated, than crooked or curved lines 
of any description, it is evident that a parallelogram, 
or some other right-lined figure, must be the best for 
the conservatory. 

A green-house appended to a dwelling-house 



12 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



should undoubtedly harmonize with that whole of 
which it is a part. But much less will effect this 
harmony than what is generally imagined. Few old 
villas, on a small or moderate scale, display much 
of design in their masonry or brick work. With all 
such, any plain form of glazed structure (fig. 3.) 
will accord. 

Fig. 3. 




In more modern houses, where columns, pedi- 
ments, cornices, and other architectural finishings, 
present themselves, something of the same kind 
should enter into the architecture of the green-house 
(fig. 4.); but always in a subordinate degree, and 
never so as to interfere with the admission of suffi- 
cient light for the health of the plants, or the power 
of adequate heating and ventilation. 

Fig. 4. 




Where a house is characterized by some particular 
style of architecture, it is easy to impress that style 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



13 



on the green-house. The form of the heads of the 
doors and windows, peculiar to the different orders 
of Gothic architecture, can readily be imitated in the 
front sashes and doors of a green-house (fig. 5.) ; and 
in the case of Grecian architecture, the mouldings of 
any of the orders are readily applied to the styles, 
rails, and bars, and to the standards and other posts : 
and even columns may be introduced in very consider- 
able erections. 

Fig. 5. 




But the grand point which influences the form of 
a green-house, as it does also its situation and position, 
is the necessity of admitting the full influence of the 
sun. For this purpose the roof, on the side next the 
south, at least, and if possible on the east and west 
sides, must be wholly of glass. It was formerly the 
custom to form the roofs of green-houses of opaque 
materials ; but this description of architecture, as well 
as the culture of green-house plants, was then in its 
infancy. The sickly condition of plants wintered in 
such of these houses as still exist in this country, 
affords evidence of their unfitness for the purpose for 
which they were intended. 

As it is found necessary to have the roof and ends 



14 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



of green-houses transparent, so it has been found ad- 
vantageous to have this transparent tegument of a 
particular form or inclination of surface relatively to 
the rays of the sun. It is found that when the sun 
shines obliquely on any body, whether transparent or 
opaque, a great many of his rays pass off ; and con- 
sequently, in the case of opaque bodies, do not com- 
municate their heat to them, and in the case of trans- 
parent ones do not penetrate through them. It is 
therefore desirable to have the glass roof of green- 
houses as much as possible in a form or slope which 
shall form right angles with the sun's rays. But as 
the sun changes his position in the heavens every day 
in the year, and every hour in the day, how can this 
be done ? The answer to this (and which was first 
given by Sir George Mackenzie, a learned horticul- 
turist) is, ' Make the surface of your green-house 
roof parallel to the vaulted surface of the heavens, or 
to the plane of the sun's orbit :' — in other words, let 
the roof of your structure be a dome of glass, with 
only a small part (about one-third of the whole) on 
the north side opaque. On such a roof the sun's 
rays will fall in a perpendicular direction in one point, 
whenever he shines, throughout the whole year. A 
most elegant house on this principle (fig. 6.) was 
erected for the late Lord St. Vincent, by Messrs. W. 
and D. Bailey, of Holborn, London. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



15 



Fig. 6. 




But this elegant plan, and all others where the 
surface is composed of curved lines, is more expen- 
sive to execute than where straight lines only are 
employed; and therefore the question of greatest 
practical importance is, what form of straight-lined 
surface will answer best as to the admission of the 
sun's rays ? The answer is obvious — a polygon, or 
many-sided figure, founded on a semi-dome. 

All other circumstances being suitable, the cur- 
vilinear form (fig. 6.), and polygonal form (fig. 7.), 
are the best for either a green-house or a conservatory; 
but these forms will not always harmonize with other 
circumstances, and therefore must frequently give 
way to such as are more economical or better adapted 
to particular situations. 



16 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Ficx. 7. 




The form of a green-house is, to a certain extent, 
influenced by the circumstance of its requiring to be 
heated by art. That form which has the ends and 
roof opaque, is unquestionably more easily heated 
than any other; but then there is so great a deficiency 
of light, as to render such a house of no use in the 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



17 



modern culture of plants. The idea of darkening a 
house at the ends or from above, for the sake of eco- 
nomising fuel, is therefore quite out of the question ; 
but some varieties of form have a tendency to Avaste 
heat, without producing a counterbalancing benefit 
by light; such as where the upper part of the roof is 
exposed to the north, and where there are glazed 
porches of entrance from that quarter. Large win- 
dows to the north ought also to be guarded against; 
and the entrance -door of a green-house ought never 
to be on the north side, unless protected by a close 
porch or other ante-inclosure. 

The form of a green-house must be such as to 
admit of ventilation, by the entrance and exit of air. 
In a conservatory, we have already stated it as an 
essential point, that the roof should be removable in 
summer. It is also a great advantage to that descrip- 
tion of winter garden, to have the sashes of the side 
or sides and ends removable ; thereby leaving the 
plants, in effect, in the open air, and subject to all 
the weather of the season. For a winter garden of 
pots it is not essential that the roof be removable, 
because the removal of the pots to the open air effects 
the same purpose : but it is of great consequence that 
there should be a power of opening the roof, as well 
as the south side and ends, to admit air to enter, cir- 
culate, and escape, every mild day during the winter 
months. The common mode of effecting this in 
right-lined houses, is by having the i*oof and front 
composed of sashes which slide in grooves, and let 

c 



18 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



down and open, or draw up and shut, at pleasure ; 
and the doors being generally at the ends, the keep- 
ing them open answers for these parts of the struc- 
ture. In houses with fixed roofs, and more especially 
in curvilinear houses, it is common to have opening 
sashes in front, and opaque shutters in the top of 
the back wall which open, and by means of these 
a current is made to ascend through the house. In 
some houses, as in that of Lord St. Vincent already 
referred to (p. 15), ventilation is effected solely by 
shutters in the front wall below the glass, and others 
'in the back wall close under the angle of the roof. 

It remains only to consider, how far the form of a 
green-house is influenced by considerations relatively 
to the weather, and especially to rain, snow, hail, and 
frost. As to rain, a certain degree of slope in the 
roof is necessary to throw it off when accojnpanied by 
wind, and experience has pointed out 40 and 45 de- 
grees of inclination as the two extremes. The maxi- 
mum of that inclination is most favourable also for 
throwing off hail when it falls perpendicularly ; and 
preventing snow from accumulating in large masses, 
so as to break the glass by its weight. No slope of 
roof, however, will guard against hail accompanied 
by wind ; all that can be done, where there is much 
to be dreaded, is to adopt panes of glass of a small 
size and good quality — say not broader than seven 
inches, and of Newcastle rather than Greenock manu- 
facture. To guard against the breakage of glass by 
frost, the slope of the roof should not be less than 45 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



19 



degrees, and the panes should not overlap one ano- 
ther more than a quarter of an inch. By attention 
to these two points, no water will ever lodge in the 
interstices between the panes, and consequently, there 
being none to freeze, there will be no panes broken. 
It is frequently alleged that the frost breaks glass by 
contracting it, or by contracting the bars in which it 
is glazed ; but this is an erroneous conclusion, made 
without adequate observation. Nothing is more 
clearly ascertained, than that the power of frost to 
break glass, is nothing without the presence of water 
in the interstices : this water, in the process of freezing, 
expands and separates the two plates of glass, which, 
being unelastic, necessarily break ; the fracture gene- 
rally commencing at the middle of the lower part of 
the pane where the water, from its gravity, had ac- 
cumulated in the greatest quantity. 

It may be observed, with respect to the angle of 
forty-five degrees recommended as best for the roof 
in regard to weather, that it is also considered best 
in all common forms, in respect to the sun's rays. 
It was that adopted and recommended by Miller, 
Speechly, Abercrombie, Nicol, and most of our emi- 
nent practical gardeners, and as the Rev. W. Wilkin- 
son has shown, with great reason, as it admits the 
sun's rays to pass perpendicularly through the roof 
during the two seasons of the year when they are 
most wanted ; viz. in April for perfecting blossoms, 
and in autumn for maturing fruits, and ripening 
young shoots. 

c 2 



20 



THE GREEN-HOUSE, 



Sect. IV. Constructioyi of the Green-house. 

Our last subject of consideration in this chapter is 
the construction of the green-house. Formerly, no 
one thought of employing any other materials than 
masonry or brick- work, timber, and glass ; lately 
metals, and chiefly iron and copper, have come much 
into use for every description of plant habitation. 
For a green-house or conservatory we have no hesi- 
tation in giving the preference to metal over wood, 
as producing a more light, elegant, and durable fabric, 
and admitting of greater latitude of form and di- 
mension, than timber. The metal we prefer is mal- 
leable iron, as the cheapest and strongest ; and we 
know of no manufacturers of more taste, science, and 
experience, than Messrs. Bailey of London, already 
mentioned. A number of green-houses erected by 
them in the neighbourhood of London, will amply 
justify our recommendation. 

But though we prefer iron green-houses, we are by 
no means against the use of wooden ones, which are 
erected at less expense, and more easily taken to 
pieces and replaced in the case of a change of plan, 
or of residence. In the case of large conservatories, 
indeed, where the roof is moveable, a mixture of 
timber and iron in the construction (as iron rafters 
and sash-bars, and timber styles and rails) is pre- 
ferable to either alone. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



21 



Sect. V. General RemarJcs as to building or pur- 
chasing Green-houses and Conservatories. 

We have now made such remarks on the plans 
and situations of green-houses, as we think may be 
perused with advantage by general readers who have 
it in view to erect or purchase one. We do not 
think we could go further into details with profit to 
such as had not already made the subject their study; 
unless indeed we were to write a treatise on hot- 
house building, which is no more required for our 
purpose than an elementary treatise on botany. 
Whoever is desirous of erecting a green-house, will 
find the cheapest and best method, first, to consult an 
architect as to the sort of form which will best ac- 
cord with his mansion; next, a good gardener or 
nurseryman as to the situation and position ; and 
thirdly, having fixed on these, let him call in a manu- 
facturer of green-houses, and, stating the data given 
by the architect and gardener, require of him a plan 
and estimate of the expense. If the party has well 
considered the subject himself, or has friends in 
whose opinion he has confidence, then he may dis- 
pense with the architect and gardener ; but let him 
not fail to employ a competent tradesman, one accus- 
tomed to build green-houses, to regulate their flues 
paths, drainage, chimneys, ventilation, &c., and who 
will be responsible for its answering the purposed ends. 

It very frequently happens, in the neighbourhood 



22 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



of large towns, that old or used green-houses are to 
be purchased, at sales of villas or nursery grounds, 
at a very low rate. We think it essential to caution 
the amateur against the purchase of any of these, at 
least as a green-house to communicate with a house. 
There is not one green-house in a hundred that will 
fit two different situations ; and if the situation is to 
be fitted to the green-house, there is little doubt that 
the result will be what tradesmen call a bungling 
job. Besides, the green-houses erected by nursery- 
men are generally of the coarsest materials and 
workmanship, and quite unfit for being objects of 
taste or accompaniments of elegance. 

But the improved methods, both of building and 
heating green-houses, &c., are now so well under- 
stood, that no hot-house builder can fail in giving 
satisfaction. 



CHAPTER n. 



OF STOCKING THE GREEN-HOUSE WITH PLANTS 
AND TREES. 

Having completed the erection of the green-house, 
the next thing is to furnish it with plants * on the 
judicious selection of these depends much of the fu- 
ture beauty and effect of the winter garden. 

With respect to the kind of plants, as the grand 
object of a green-house is to produce flowers and 
verdure during winter and spring, those plants 
should chiefly be selected which are evergreens, and 
which come into flower during these seasons. It 
should further be considered, that where a profes- 
sional gardener is not kept, only the more hardy and 
easily cultivated of these sorts should be procured ; 
as it is always more agreeable to see a thriving deep 
green assemblage of growth and vei'dure, than a pale 
sickly collection of rarities. 

Sect. I. Of Fruit- Trees hi a Green-house. 

Previously to selecting the green-house plants, 
properly so called, it may be proper to inquire how 
far the green-house may be made to supply a few 
bunches of grapes, or a dozen or two of peaches, as 
well as the beauty of winter verdure and flowers. 



24 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



To expect much from any green-house in this way 
would be absurd ; because in proportion as space is 
occupied and light excluded by the one sort of pro- 
duction, the room for the other must necessarily be 
diminished : but happily the grape-vine is of such a 
hardy and accommodating nature, that, by a little 
contrivance, one or two plants of it may be cultivated 
in every green-house. The simplest and best mode 
of introducing vines into a green-house is by planting 
them outside of the south front, close under the up- 
right glass, and introducing the shoots through an 
opening in the masonry, or, what is better, in the 
corner of a moveable sash. The vine so introduced 
may then be trained in a direction from the front to 
the back of the house, at about a foot distance from 
the glass ; and either on the under edge of the wooden 
rafter in which the sashes slide, or on a stout wire, or 
couple of wires, suspended from it, or by any other 
means, placed parallel to and within eighteen inches 
of the roof In a green-house, where the plants are 
to be kept in pots, vines may be introduced in this 
way every four or five feet throughout the length of 
the front, so that a house thirty feet long would give 
seven or eight vines ; and seven or eight vines, so 
situated and properly managed, will on an average of 
years produce at least twenty bunches of grapes each, 
or, in all, 250 or 300 lbs. of grapes. 

In a green-house, where the plants are to be grown 
in beds and borders, and the roof of the house re- 
moved during summer, it will be of no use planting 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



25 



vines ; as the fruit would never ripen, and indeed the 
shade that vrould be thrown on the plants below, by 
vines or other creepers on the rafters, would be so 
injurious to them as to condemn the practice, even if 
in other respects advantageous. In a green-house of 
pots, the plants being set out of doors during sum- 
mer, the shade of the vines does no injury whatever 
to the few tender annuals, as balsams, &c., which at 
that season may be set on the stage as decorations. 

A green-house of pots therefore has this advantage 
over a conservatory, that it will afford a few grapes. 
By introducing peach-trees, figs, and other trees or 
fruit-bearing shrubs in pots, a further variety of fruit 
may be obtained ; but, with the exception of peaches 
and figs, we cannot recommend an attempt to go fur- 
ther, as the space occupied by such articles would be 
too great; would interfere with the character and 
beauty of the house, by presenting a number of 
naked and common forms in large pots of earth ; 
and after all, supposing the success as complete as 
could be expected, the result is only a few common 
fruits a week or two before they ripen in the open air. 
There are some, however, who prefer a green-house 
of fruit-trees in pots, to a green-house of verdant 
varieties barren as to the palate ; but such a taste 
cannot be considered as elegant or refined. 

Peach trees are sometimes planted in green-houses, 
and trained up the rafters or on a couple of wires in 
the manner of vines. This may be tried with one or 



26 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



two rafters ; but it will be found that the peach-tree 
soon gets too woody and unwieldy for this mode of 
training, and also that its blossoms and leaves expand 
so early as to be injurious to the green-house plants by 
their shade. The least injurious mode, where the 
plan and circumstances of the house are suitable, is 
to plant a peach-tree at one end, and a fig-tree at the 
other ; placing them in the north angle, and training 
them in part on the end glass, and in part on the back 
wall where it is not covered by the stage of pots. 
Or, instead of training them either against the wall 
or the glass, the trees may be allowed to spread their 
heads as standards, in which state, being pruned so as 
not to get crowded, they will be found to bear very well. 

The pomegranate and the olive, and also the ju- 
jube and carob, might no doubt be fruited in a green- 
house, as they all produce abundantly in the gardens 
and fields about Nice and Genoa ; but unless where 
the green-house was very large, or there was a pecu- 
liar taste in the owner for growing fruits, it would 
not be worth while to attempt it. Those who Wish 
to make trial, should adopt large well- drained pots or 
boxes, or plant in a border against the back wall or 
ends of the house. 

Having limited the fruit-trees to be introduced into 
a green-house to a few vines, a fig, and a peach, we 
shall give the names of the sorts of those which we 
consider the most suitable. 

Grapes. — Of black sorts the July is the earliest ; 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



27 



it has a small loose bunch, and round sweet-flavoured 
berry ; it bears well, and the leaves are not large. 

The black sweet-imter has a larger berry, closer 
bunch, and richer flavour ; but it is not so hardy or 
so good a bearer. 

The black cluster, of which there are several va- 
rieties, is a very hardy plant and a great bearer ; the 
berries are small, round, and close in the bunch ; 
but their flavour is strong, and more suitable for 
making wine than for the dessert. 

The esperione is an excellent black grape, hardy, 
a great bearer, round berries, close bunch, and fla- 
vour resembling the Hamburgh. 

The black prince and black ffontinidc are both 
good grapes, and should be planted in the warmest 
part of the green-house. 

Of white grapes none are more suitable than the 
muscadine, especially the small early variety ; and 
next, the common siveet-water, and ivhite frontiniac ; 
the latter placed in the warmest part of the house. 

But, perhaps, of all others, the Black Hamburgh 
is the most suitable for a green-house. 

In planting these grapes, a white and red sort, or, 
as the reds or blacks are generally preferred to the 
whites, two reds and one white, should be planted 
alternately, in order that there may be a finer effect 
produced by the fruit when it begins to ripen, and the 
leaves in autumn when they begin to decay. At that 
season the leaves of the red sorts take a scarlet, and 
those of the whites a yellowish hue. 



28 



THE GREEN-HOUSE, 



The age of the plants may be two years from the 
eye or cutting. After planting, they should be cut 
down to the lower edge of the lowest pane of front 
glass, and the leading shoot trained from that point. 
This shoot should be shortened every year at the 
winter pruning, in order to force it to thi*ow out side- 
shoots, which must be spurred in, that is, all cut off 
excepting two or three buds, this being the mode of 
bearing most suitable for grape-vines so circumstanced. 

Particular attention must be paid to the soil in 
which the vines are planted, as unless this is of a 
good quality, and laid perfectly dry below, all other 
labours with this fruit-tree Avill be in vain. No tree 
whatever is so much injured by a springy, clayey 
subsoil as the vine : it is not sufficient, in the case of 
such soils, to form a drain round the house, or round 
the border, as that will not prevent the cold moisture 
from ascending into the superstratum ; this superstra- 
tum of good soil must be separated from the subsoil 
by a layer of stones, brickbats, gravel, and lime rub- 
bish, well mixed together and beaten, or rammed 
into a compact body. On this bottom a compost of 
loam, dung, and a little sand and lime rubbish should 
be laid, to the thickness of two feet at least. It is 
of much less importance what the component parts 
of this compost are, than that the whole should be 
laid dry. Four parts of loamy turf from any com- 
mon or old pasture ; a fifth part of rotten dung, blood, 
night-soil, bones, or any dung no matter how strong 
or coarse it may be ; and a sixth part of lime rubbish 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



29 



and coarse sand or gravel mixed together, will form 
an excellent compost, and if there are any bones in it, 
it will require no renewal or enrichment for many 
years. 

The same compost with an addition of sand and 
lime rubbish, will answer well for the fig, olive, 
pomegranate, and jujube, if a tree of either of these 
sorts should be planted in a corner; and for the 
peach, the turfy loam, with a small addition of rotten 
dung and sand, w^ll be sufficient, as this tree does not 
thrive in a very rich soil, or in one where much lime 
is present. 

The sorts of peaches we would recommend as 
standards for a green-house are, the Royal George 
and red Magdalen ; and of Figs the early blue, or 
blue Ischia, and early white. 

Having introduced such fruit-trees as are admis- 
sible in the green-house, our next business is to indi- 
cate the plants which shall constitute the main stock, 
or the green-house plants properly so called. With 
the exception of a few climbers or twiners, all of 
these are grown in pots. 

Sect. 11. Climbers and Twisters. 

The climbers and twiners introduced into a green- 
house should be very few, because, as they are 
generally evergreens, they shade the plants below 
during the whole winter and spring. Some intro- 
duce them under the roof, in lieu of the vines which 



so 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



we have recommended, and where there is a separate 
house for vines, this is doubtless the best mode. In 
a small green-house, however, it is better to place 
them in subordinate situations, as at the ends, or 
against such props or pillars as may be introduced to 
support the roof. It sometimes happens also, that 
they may be grown on iron rods fixed to the stage, or 
forming arches over the path, or a sort of arbour or 
porch immediately within the doors of entrance. But 
wherever they are placed, the great object is to take 
care that they do as little injury as possible by their 
shade ; and, as it is very difficult to avoid this, the 
fewer that are planted the better. Many of the sorts 
may be grown in pots, and trained round a cone of 
rods or wires fixed to an iron basement or saucer on 
which the pot stands. 

The climbing and twining green-house plants 
which we would recommend are the following — 

Hoya carnosa, B. M. 788, which has red and white 
flowers in June, and the odour of honey. 

Glycine sinensis, B. M. 2083, with fine blueish 
pea-flowers during the same month. 

Bigndnia grandifiora, B. M. 1398, B. R. 418, with 
large scarlet trumpet- shaped flowers in July. 

Cohcea scandens, B. M. 851, which has purple 
flowers, and is in bloom all the summer. Great care 
must be taken to keep it within bounds, otherwise it 
will overrun everything in the course of one season. 
It has been known to grow at the rate of a foot a day, 
for upwards of two months together. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



31 



Convolvulus canariemis, B. M. 1228, is a herba- 
ceous plant with a twining stem, and very showy 
reddish blue and white flowers which appear in July. 

Jasminum grandiflorumy B. R. 91, has a fine 
sweet-scented white flower, and well deserves a place, 
as it will perfume the house during a whole summer. 
Some other jasmines which are also climbers may 
be grown in pots. 

Passiflora ccerulea racemosa, B. C. 573, and the 
other hybrids originated from these two species, de- 
serve introduction where there is room. They flower 
late in the season, and often continue in flower great 
part of the winter. 

Lomcera fldva, B. M. 1318, has yellow odorife- 
rous flowers, and merits a place next to the two last 
genera. 

A soil composed of loam and sand, with a little peat 
earth, will suit all these plants. It must be well 
drained by a bed of gravel or rubbish below, as from 
the water which drops from the plants in pots on the 
stage, and that used to syringe the house, or to wash 
the pots, climbers are very apt to be overwatered, 
and the earth to become sodden ; and when this is 
the case, they cease to thrive. 

Sect. III. Green-house Plants m Pots. 

In recommending a stock of green-house plants for 
pots, we shall endeavour to avoid the common and 
very prevalent error of choosing a great number of 



32 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



different species, with more regard to their variety 
and value to the botanist, than their beauty to the 
general observer or amateur, and their fragrance and 
easy culture. We have no hesitation in stating, that 
a more beautiful and fragrant display may be made 
from a judicious selection of heaths, geraniums, 
myrtles, oranges, camellias, proteas, salvia, poly gala, 
didsma, gnidia, acacia, melaleuca, nerium, fuchsia, 
and perhaps one or tAVO others, than from all the rest 
of the green-house plants known to botanists. The 
heaths, the camellias, and above all the geraniums, 
are an inexhaustible fund of beauty, and that for 
every month in the year. The camellias are in per- 
fection at Christmas, and last till the beginning of 
February, when they are succeeded by the geraniums 
and heaths, which keep flowering till the succeeding 
November. 

We wish we could impress sufficiently on our 
readers the importance of selecting a few choice sorts, 
rather than aiming at a great number of species, or 
what gardeners call a greater variety. The truth is, 
that witldn the last fifty years the accession to our 
stock of exotics has been so great, that gardeners 
are quite bewildered among them, and the nursery- 
men at present, in their recommendation of plants, 
act as if every purchaser were a botanist. This is the 
reason why we see so very few green-houses that 
present a gay assemblage of luxuriant verdure and 
blossoms : on the contrary, they are generally filled 
with sickly, naked plants in peat soil, with hard 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



33 



names, which one-half of people of taste and fashion, 
and nine-tenths of mankind in general, care notliing 
about. 

We shall now enumerate such species of the above 
and a few other genera as we would recommend ; 
and we shall in a future chapter enumerate all the 
genera of green-house plants known, and state some- 
thing of their characters as to beauty and cultivation. 
But we wwld previously premise two tilings : first, 
that we do not profess to have included all the hand- 
some species of green-house plants in our list of 
stock; and secondly, that we would recommend to 
any person wishing to stock a green-house, not to 
carry a list to a nurseryman, but to describe gene- 
rally the sort of collection wanted, and leave to him 
to supply such species as will produce it ; for some 
of the species in books are not known to practical 
men ; rare or dear plants have their names changed, 
or have been lost ; and others are supplanted by su- 
perior species or varieties more recently introduced 
or originated. The true mode, therefore, not to meet 
with disappointment, is to employ a respectable 
nurseryman, who vdll not only look to giving present 
satisfaction, but to ensuring future favours. Of such 
nurserymen there are many round London. 



Subsect. 1. Came^llias. 

The Came^llia is the genus we shall commence 
with, as flowering the earliest. The C. or Thea hoJiea 

D 



34 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



and viridis are varieties of the plants, the leaves of 
which compose the black and green teas of China, 
mixed, as it is said, with those of C. sasdnqua. The 
ornamental species is the C. japonica, an evergreen 
shrub which grows to the size of a low tree in China : 
it has dark green shining ovate leaves on short foot- 
stalks; and flowers red, white, striped, variegated, 
semi-double, and double, of various forms, and without 
smell. The principal varieties are : 

Of Redy the single, semi-double, double pale, 
dark, large, pseony, pompone, long-leaved, Greville's, 
Campbell's, coronet, Middlemist's, Loddiges', Wara- 
tah, and others. 

Of TVhiteSy the single, semi-double, double. Will- 
bank's, fimbriated, spotted-leaved, &c. 

Of Red and TVhlte, the striped, single, semi- 
double, and double; the variegated spotted-leaved, 
and some other seedlings not yet named. 

Some of these sorts are figured in the Botanical 
Magazine, in Andi-ews's Botanist's Repository, in 
the Botanic Register, in Loddiges' Botanical Cabi- 
net, and references will be found to them in our 
general catalogue, the last chapter, art. Camellia. 

New varieties are continually originating, by the 
nurserymen and other growers, from seeds. A num- 
ber of hybrids are in an advanced state, but have not 
yet flowered. 

The double red, pale red, pseony, pompone, Gre- 
ville and Waratah reds ; the double whites, and the 
double-striped, form a very handsome collection. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



35 



The soil for the Camellia is loam two parts, and 
sand and leaf-mould or peat-earth one part ; they 
will grow well in loam alone, provided the pots be 
so well drained as not to retain water. The single 
red is propagated by cuttings and layers, on which 
the other species are propagated by grafting or in- 
arching. The Camellia is very hardy, and requires 
little more than forty-five or forty-eight degrees of 
Fahrenheit when in flower ; but when the shoots are 
growing, which is commonly a month or six weeks 
after the flowers have faded, they should have more 
heat by eight or ten degrees, and plenty of water 
both at root and over the top. As soon as they have 
done growing they should be kept cool to harden the 
wood, and they may be placed in the open air, in a 
sheltered and rather shady situation, from the end of 
May to October. 



Subsect. 2. Heaths. 

The Erica comes next in order ; some of its 
species are in flower all the winter, a few regularly 
blossom in March, more in April, and a great variety 
in every month to November inclusive. We shall 
give the names of some of the most beautiful for each 
month. 

January to March inclusive, hut chiefly in March. 
Erica drdenSi B. R. 115, flowers red, open, roundish ; 

D2 



36 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



plant not exceeding 6 inclies high. B. K. 115. 
B. C. 47. 

Erica oppositifolia, flower purple, open, ventricose ; 

height 6 or 7 inches. 
E. pallens, pill-shaped, yellow flower ; plant nearly a 

foot high. 

E. harhata, with pill-shaped flowers of a white co- 
lour, and the plant 10 inches high. There are 
three varieties, E. h. major, minor, and discolor. 
B. C. 124. A. H. vol. 2. 

E. vernix, roundish greenish flower, and plant nearly 
2 feet high. There is a variety called E. v. major, 
full 2 feet high. B.M.I 139. 

April. 

E, mutdbilis, purple ventricose flowers ; plant 
nearly 6 inches high. B. C. 46. A. H. vol. 3. 

E. acutangula, white flowers ; low plant. 

E. Jinitiana, open purple flowers ; plant nearly a 
foot high. 

E. gracilis, purple pill-shaped flowers ; plant 10 
inches high. 

E. prcBcox, purple pill-shaped flowers; plant 8 

inches high. B. C. 244. 
E. haccans ; flowers round, purple ; plant nearly a 

foot and a half high. B. M. 358. 
E. aristata ; flowers white, open, ventricose ; plant 

from 12 to 18 inches high. B. M. 1249. B. C. 

73. A. H. vol. 3. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



37 



Eriea UnncBoides, tube- shaped purple flowers ; plant 

nearly 2 feet high. 
E. sessiUfdUa, tube-shaped yellow flowers ; plant 20 

inches high. 

E. gelida, ventricose, white, wax-looking flowers ; 
plant above 18 inches high, B. C. 699. A. H. 
vol. 2. 

E. cost at a, tube- shaped red flowers ; plant above 2 

feet high. A. H. vol. 1. 
E. spicata, tube-shaped yellow flowers ; plant nearly 

30 inches high. A. H. vol. 1. 
E. discolor, tube-shaped white flowers ; plant from 

2 feet to 30 inches high. A. H. vol. 1. 

Mai/. 

E. fimbnata, pill-shaped red flowers ; plant under 

6 inches high. 
E. squarrosa, ventricose white flowers ; plant not 

more than 6 inches high, 
E. kalmifldra, open red flowers ; plant from 6 to 12 

inches high. 

E. trivialis, pill-shaped red flowers ; plant 9 inches 
high. 

E. mundula rubra, ventricose red flowers ; plant 
nearly a foot high. B. C. 668. 

E. venusta and squarrosa carnea, elegant tube- 
shaped red flowers ; plants nearly one foot high. 

E. eocserta and melUfera, pill- shaped purple flowers ; 
plants nearly one foot high. 



38 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Erica fragrans, A. H. vol. 2, B. C. 288, mollis and 
pueriUs, ventricose purple flowers ; plants nearly 

one foot high. 
JS. campanuldta, A. H. vol. 1, B. C. 184, and lacti- 

color, roundish yellow flowers ; plants from 6 to 

12 inches high. 
E. arctdta, corddta, A. H. vol. 3, stelldta and densa, 

elegant pill- shaped white flowers; plants nearly 

10 inches high. 
E. hiflora, B. C. 683, and itrsina, roundish white 

flowers ; plants from 6 to 12 inches high. 
E. acuminata, tube-shaped red flowers ; the plant 

from 12 to 18 inches high. B. C. 216. 
E. pej'soluta rubra and p. conferta, A. H. vol. 2, 

pill- shaped red flowers, and handsome plants from 

12 to 18 inches high. 
jB. patens, A. H. vol. 3, plumosa and racemosa, open 

purple flowers ; plants from 12 to 18 inches high. 
E. muscdria, A. H. vol. 1, and tenuiflora, A. H. vol. 

3, tube-shaped and yellow flowers ; plants from 12 

to 18 inches high. 
E. dctea, dbnnia, persoliita dlha and pinifolia disco- 
lor, A. H. vol. 1, pill-shaped white flowers ; plants 

above 12 inches high. 
E. ruff a, versicolor, A. H. vol. 1, B. C. 208, tuhi- 

flora and spuria pdllida, tube-shaped red flowers ; 

plants from 20 to 24 inches high. 
E. andromedceflora, B. M. 1250, B. C. 521, and 

racemiflbra, pill-shaped red flowers ; plants nearly 

2 feet high. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



39 



Erica spuria, A. H. vol. 1, tube-shaped purple 

flowers ; plant 20 inches high. 
E. ignescens and hy^brida, A. H. vol. 2, roundish 

yellow flowers ; plants from 18 inches to 2 feet 

high. 

E. Pater soni major, A. H. vol. 1, elegant tube-shaped 
white flowers ; plant 2 feet high, with long trem- 
bling foliage. 

E. conferta, A. H. vol. 2, and fiexudsa, A. H. vol. 1, 
pill- shaped white flowers ; plants above 20 inches 
high. 

E. enneaphy^Ua, tube-shaped yellow flowers; plant 

nearly 2 J feet high. 
E. viscaria^ B. C. 726, roundish red flowers on a 

plant which grows to the height of 3 feet. 
E. concmna, tube-shaped purple flowers ; plant from 

30 to 36 inches high. 

June, 

E. longipedunculata, B. C. 103, and saturejcBfoUa, 

open and ventricose red flowers on plants of the 

most diminutive size. 
E. Bdnksia purpurea, tube-shaped purple flowers ; 

plant seldom above 6 inches high. 
E. droseroides and elegans, B. C. 185, B. M. 966, 

open purple flowers on low plants. 
E. Banksia lutea, tube-shaped yellow flowers ; plant 

under 6 inches high. 



40 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Erica acuta, tube-shaped white flowers ; plant seldom 
more than 6 inches high. A. H. vol. 2. 

E. petiolata, A. H. vol. 3, and pnmuhides, B. C. 
715, B. M. 1548, roundish white flowers on low 
plants. 

E. hracteata, pistilldris and hyacintJioides, A. H. 

vol. 3, roundish ventricose red flowers; plants 

under a foot high. 
E. hlanda, B. C. 13, A. H. vol. 3, and depressa, A. 

H. vol. 2, tube-shaped purple flowers ; plants from 

6 to 12 inches high. 
E. concavay B. C. 134, congesta, Nivenia, A. H. 

vol. 2, and nohilis, open ventricose purple flowers ; 

plants from 6 inches to one foot in height. 
E. haUcacaba, A. H. vol. 2, ventricose yellow flowers ; 

plant about a foot high. 
E. ntvea and rostella, roundish white flowers ; plants 

under a foot high. 
E. Linnet a superha, elegant tube-shaped red flowers ; 

plant rising 18 inches high. 
E. empetroides, Ice^vis rubra, and margaritacea incar- 

nata, A. H. vol. 2, roundish red flowers ; plants 

from one foot to one foot and a half high. 
E. empetrifoUa, B. M. 447, pill-shaped purple 

flowers; plant rising 18 inches. 
E. fldmmea, A. H. vol. 2, and erecta, tube-shaped 

yellow flowers ; plants from 12 to 18 inches high. 
E. epistdmia, ventricose yellow flowers ; plant up- 
wards of a foot high. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



41 



Erica Linncea, tube-shaped flowers ; plant 18 inches 

high. B. C. 102. A. H. vol. 2. 
E. margantacea, A. H. vol. 1, pearl-shaped white 

flowers ; plant 18 or 20 inches high. 
E. Ice^vis, melanthera, pyroUfidra, regerminans, and 

tnfldra ; roundish white flowers on plants from 12 

to 18 inches high. 
E. splendens, tube-shaped red flowers ; plant 18 

inches high. 

E. refleoca ruhra, roundish red flowers ; plant nearly 
2 feet high. 

E. simpUcifdlia, tube-shaped yellow flowers on a 

plant from 20 to 24 inches high. 
E. ahsinthoides, aristata serotina, A. H. vol. 3, and 

refleoca alha, roundish white flowers on plants from 

18 inches to 2 feet high. 

July. 

E. panicidata and lacJind^a rubra, open roundish red 

flowers ; plants under 6 inches high. 
E. droseroides major , roundish purple flowers on very 

low plants. 

E. Kennedia and Pannentiera, B. C. 197, tube- 
shaped red flowers ; plants from 9 inches to a foot 
in height. 

E. Dicksdnia rubra, articidata, comosa conferta et 
rubra, ventricosa, B. C. 431, B. M. 350, diii^Jiirta, 
roundish red flowers on plants from 6 inches to a 
foot in height. 



42 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Erica campestris and protrudens, purple roundish 

flowers on plants of a foot high. 
E. cistifdlia, lacJince^a, and rupestris, roundish white 

flowers on very low plants. 
E. Sparmannia, A. H. vol. 3, tube-shaped yellow 

flowers ; plant a foot high. 
E, lutea, A. H. vol. 1, B. C. 64, and magnifica, 

roundish yellow flowers ; plants from 6 to 12 inches 

high. 

jB. Massonia ferrugmea and minor, B. M. 356, 
tube- shaped green flowers ; plants nearly a foot 
high. 

E. campanulata, A. H. vol. 1, B. C. 184, Dichsonia 
alba, glomerata, Peziza, B. C. 265, retdrta, B. M. 
362, brevifoUa, rotundifolia, seccfaria, A. H. vol. 2, 
and thymifolla, A. H. vol. 2, roundish white 
flowers ; plants rising a foot high. 

E, infldta, muscosa, pedunculata, ramentdcea, A. H. 
vol. 1, B. C. 446, TValkeria superha, A. H.vol. 1, 
B. C. 256, canescens, A. H. vol. 2, incdna, in- 
carndta major, juUdna, moschdta, B. C. 614^, and 
propendens, B. C. 63, A. H. vol. 2, roundish 
ventricose red flowers ; plants from 12 to 18 inches 
high. 

E, perspicua, tube-shaped purple flowers on a plant 

15 inches high. 
E, ohliqua, A. H. vol. 1, puhescens mdjor, B. C. 

167, Petiveria mdjor et minor, and recurmta, 

roundish purple flowers on plants from 12 to 18 

inches high. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



43 



Erica eoosurgens coccinea and fulgida, tube-sliaped 
copper-coloured flowers ; plants 18 inches high. 

E. petiveria aurantia, Sehdna minor, tetragdna and 
Thunhergia, B. C. 277, B. M. 1214, roundish 
orange-coloured flowers ; plants from 15 to 19 
inches high. 

E, eoosurgens, A. H. vol. 1, decumhens, capitata, 

A. H. vol. 1, Humea, B. C. 389, and urceolaris, 
roundish flowers of a white colour on plants from 
12 to 18 inches high. 

E . penicillata rubra, hirta, and Aitonia, B. C. 144, 

B. M. 429, tube-shaped red flowers ; plants from 
18 to 24 inches high. 

E, colata, pinnifdlia coccinea, Jiispida and imheciUa, 
roundish red flowers ; plants from 1 to 2 feet in 
height. 

E, Sebana, A. H. vol. 1, B. C. 23, tube-shaped 
purple flowers ; plant rising 20 inches. 

E. decora, A. H. vol. 3, and glduca, B. M. 580, 
roundish purple flowers ; plants from 1 to 2 feet 
in height. 

jB. moUissima, Hibbertia, and Hibbertia minor, A. H. 
vol. 3, roundish yellow flowers ; plants from 1 to 2 
feet high. 

E. foliosa, formosa, glabra, and Sebdna fusca, 
aurantia et lutea, tube-shaped yellow flowers ; 
plants from 20 inches to 2 feet in height. 

E. marifdiia, A. H. vol. 1, Monsonia minor, peni- 
cillata, A. H. vol. 2, pinifdlia and triumphans, 
roundish white flowers ; plants from 1 to 2 feet high. 



44 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Erica melastoma, A. H. vol. 1, tube-shaped varie- 
gated flowers ; plant rising 2 feet high. 

E. conspicua, roundish yellow flowers ; plant nearly 
30 inches in height. A. H. vol. 2. 

E. rosea, A. H. vol. 2, and vestita cdrnea, tube-like 
red flowers on elegant plants rising 2^ feet high. 

E. grandijldra, long tubular yellow flowers ; plant 
from 30 inches to 3 feet in height. B. M. 189, 
B. C. 498. 

E. coronata, tube-shaped green flowers ; plant up- 
wards of 30 inches in height. 

E. vestita alba, tube-shaped white flowers on a plant 
3 feet high. B.C. 243. 

August, 

E. pumila, roundish red flowers ; plant under 6 
inches in height. 

E, interteMa, ventricose white flowers ; plant of di- 
minutive growth. 

E. calycina major, B. C. 594, ohcordata rubra, pa- 
radisiaca, peltata, flagelliformis, taxifolia, defleoca 
and Noisettia, roundish or pill-shaped red flowers 
on plants from 6 inches to 1 foot in height. 

E. scariosa, roundish purple flowers on a plant a foot 
high. B.C. 477. 

E. sbrdida, tube-shaped yellow flowers ; plant 10 
inches high. A. H. vol. 1. 

E. metulcBflora, ventricose yellow flowers on a plant 
from 6 to 12 inches high. B. M. 612, 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



45 



Erica infandihuUfdrTnis, elegant tube-sliaped open 
flowers, of a pure white ; plant a foot or more in 
height. B. C. 589. 

E. aggregata, densa, Lambertia, B. C. 3, A. H. 
vol. 2, prohoscidea and strutMolcBfldra, roundish 
white flowers on plants from 6 to 12 inches high. 

E. ignescens, A. H. vol. 2^ Sehana sanguinea, B. C. 
86, and rigida, tube-shaped red flowers on plants 
from 12 to 18 inches in height. 

E, rubella, B. C. 658, B. M. 2165, rubens, B. C. 557, 
Templea, denticulata rubra, muscoldes and bru- 
nioides, roundish red flowers on plants from 12 to 
18 inches high. 

E. lucida, A. H. vol. 2, quadrifidra and strigdsa, 
roundish purple flowers on plants from 14 to 20 
inches in height. 

E. albens, B. C. 95, B. M. 440, and denticulata, 
roundish ventricose yellow flowers on plants from 
12 to 18 inches high. 

E. gemmifera, tube-shaped green flowers; plant 
from 12 to 18 inches high. B. C. 457, B. M. 2266. 

E. bandbnia, ventricose green flowers ; plant nearly 
18 inches high. 

E, argentiflbra, tube-shaped silvery- white flowers; 
plant from 12 to 15 inches in height. 

E. aspera, caff r a, B. C. 196, daplmce flora, B. C. 543, 
fastigiata, A. H. vol. 1, B. C. 207, flaccida, pen- 
dula, phyllicoides and shannbnia, B. C. 168, round- 
ish ventricose white flowers on plants under 18 
inches in height. 



46 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Erica caffra spicata and tricolor minor, pill-shaped 
and longish variegated flowers on plants 18 inches 
high. 

E. carinata, vestita incarndta, verticilldta, B. C. 
145, A. H. vol. 1, and mammosa alba, tube- 
shaped red flowers on plants generally about 2 
feet high. 

E. ampulldcea, B. C. 508, B. M. 303, Broadlydna, 
Salishuria, Jasminiflora and pellucida, B. C. 276, 

A. H. vol. 3, roundish red flowers on plants from 
18 to 24 inches high. 

E. mammbsa, B. C. 125, A. H. vol. 1, and mammosa 

major, tube- shaped purple flowers on plants from 

18 to 24 inches high. 
E. pallida and nitida, roundish purple flowers on 

plants 20 inches high. 
E. hdrrida, a tube-shaped dark yellow flower, plant 

24 inches high. 
E. nudijldra, a roundish yellow flower; plant 20 

inches high. 

E, Swainsdnia, a tube-shaped green flower; plant 
2 feet high. 

E. mirdhilis, m. major and pildsa, B. C. 606, tube- 
shaped white flowers on plants from 18 to 24 
inches in height. 

E. arhutijldra, cupressina and physodes, B. C. 223, 

B. M. 443, roundish ventricose white floAvers on 
plants from 18 to 24 inches in height. 

E, tricolor majors variegated roundish flowers ; plants 
2 feet high. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



47 



Erica elongatay tube-shaped red flowers ; plant about 

2 feet high. B.C. 738. 
E, imperialis, tube- shaped green flowers ; plant nearly 

30 inches high. 
E, buccmifdrmis, tube-shaped red flowers ; plant 30 

inches high. 

E. data, tube-shaped yellow flowers ; plant 30 inches 

high, and upwards. A. H. vol. 2. 
E. Mas soma, greenish white ventricose flowers ; plant 

upwards of 30 inches high. B. M. 356. 

September. 

E. calycina minor, B. C. 594, and tenuifolia, A. H. 

vol. 3, pill- shaped and roundish flowers of a deep 

red on plants of very low growth. 
E. Smithia and Ai^cheria, A. H. vol. 2, ventricose 

purple flowers on plants 6 inches high. 
E. specidsa, roundish yellow flowers on plants about 

6 inches high. B. C. 575, A. H. vol. 2. 
E. Plukenetiana nana, tube-shaped red flowers ; plant 

rising 9 inches in height. A. H. vol. 1. 
E. decUnata, fibula, floribunda, B. C. 176, cernua 

and imbricata, roundish red flowers on plants from 

6 to 12 inches high. 
E. cyatJioides, open purple flowers ; plant from 6 to 

12 inches in height. 
E. glanduldsa and lanuginosa, A. H. vol, 3, ventri- 
cose yellow flowers on plants under a foot high. 



48 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Erica purea, tube-shaped white flowers ; plant rising 

10 inches. B. C. 72. 
E. cumiilata, ocularia and Soldndra, A. H. vol. 2, 

roundish white flowers on plants from 6 to 12 

inches high. 

E. coccmea, c. major, RolUnsonia, Archeria and eru- 
hescens, A. H. vol. 3, tube-shaped red and flame- 
coloui-ed flowers on plants fi'om 12 to 18 inches 
high. 

E. mucronata, globdsa, prhiceps, B. C. 647, A. H. 

vol. 2, palitstris, B. C. 4, A. H. vol. 2, puJcMlIa, 

B. C. 307, scahriuscula, B. C. 517, and Sehana 

vh'idis, roundish red flowers on plants fi'om 12 to 

18 inches liigh. 
E. rugata, a tube-shaped purple flower ; plant fi'om 

10 to 14 inches liigh. 
E. tiarcefldra, roundish purple flowers on a plant 

from 10 to 14 inches liigh. 
E. Fluhenetiana alba, tube-shaped white flowers; 

plant fr-om 12 to 18 inches high. 
E. eriocephala, pill- shaped white flower ; plant fr-om 

12 to 18 inches high. 
E. 'prcd^gnans coccinea, carneola and multifldra, A. H. 

vol. 2, roundish red flowers on plants fr*om 20 to 

24 inches high. 
E. vestita purpurea, tube-shaped flower ; plant fi'om 

20 to 24 inches high. B. C. 217. 
E. Petiveriana, a tube-shaped yellow flower ; plant 

nearly 2 feet high. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



49 



Erica glutindsa, roundish yellow flowers ; plant up- 
wards of 20 inches high. 
JE, superba, viridifldra and viridescens, B. C. 233, 

roundish green flowers on plants from 20 to 24 

inches in height. 
£j. planifdlia and setacea, A. H. vol. 1, pill-shaped 

white flowers on plants rising 2 feet high. 
vestita coccinea, tube-shaped red flowers ; plant 

upwards of 30 inches high. B. C. 55. 
E, vestita fiilg ens, tube-shaped purple flowers ; plant 

above 3 feet high. 
E. Leea, handsome yellow open flowers on a plant 3 

feet high and upwards. 

October. 

E. rosacea, open purple flowers ; plant from 6 to 

12 inches high. 
E. radidta, tube-shaped yellow flowers ; plant rising 

a foot in height. A. H. vol. 1. 
E. horizontalis, tube-shaped red flowers ; plant from 

12 to 18 inches high. A. H. vol. 2. 
E. turgida, pyramidalis, B. C. 319, B. M. 366, and 

perldta rubra, roundish red flowers on plants from 

12 to 18 inches high. 
E. corrugdta and Jldva, A. H. vol. 2, tube-shaped 

yellow flowers on plants rising 18 inches. 
E. picta and serratifoUa, A. H. vol. 1, roundish 

yellow flowers on plants from 12 to 18 inches 

high. 

K 



50 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Erica viridis, tube-shaped green flowers; plant 

nearly 18 inches high. A. H. vol. 2. 
JE. denticulata alba, pei^ldta, and senectula, roundish 

white flowers on plants from 12 to 18 inches in 

height. 

E. cerintJioides, B. M. 220, lanata, and c. capitdta, 
tube -shaped red flowers on plants about 2 feet 
high. 

E. puherulenta, roundish red flowers ; plant nearly 
2 feet high. 

E. filamentdsa, tube-shaped purple flowers ; plant 

nearly 24 inches high. B. R. 6. 
E. purpm^ea, roundish purple flowers ; plant from 

20 to 24 inches in height. B. C. 703, A. H. vol. 2. 
E. aurea, tube- shaped yellow flowers, on plants nearly 

2 feet high. A. H. vol. 2. 
E. pindstri, tube-shaped white flowers on an elegant 

pine-looking plant 2 feet high and upwards. 
E. Etveria, E. pildsa, B. C, 606, and E. specidsa, 

A. H. vol. 2, B. C. 575, tube-shaped red and green 

flowers on plants nearly 2 feet high. 
E. cerintJioides eldta, open roundish red flowers on 

plants upwards of 2 feet and a half high. 

November. 

E. Idxa, pill-shaped purple flowers ; plant from 12 

to 18 inches high. A. H. vol. 3. 
E, colorans, roundish purple flowers ; plant upwards 

of 20 inches high. B. R. 601, B. C. 224. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



51 



Erica sulphurea, tube-shaped yellow flowers ; plant 
from 18 ]tp 24 inches high. B. M. 1984. 

December, 

E. vestita rosea, tube-shaped red flowers ; plant up- 
wards pf 2 feet and a half high. 

All the above species, and a number of others, are 
figured in Andrews's Heathery, and several of them 
ill the B. M., B. C, and B. R. Those who live at a 
distance from the metropolis, may make a selection 
according to their own taste from the first work ; but 
those who can have an opportunity of seeing the 
plants at any of the great London cultivators, will be 
able to judge more correctly by inspection, especially 
ias to the hardiness of the plant and its mode of 
growth. The flowers of heaths are in two grand di- 
visions, the tube-shaped or long trumpet-like flowers, 
and the roundish, including the pill-shaped, cup-like 
and ventricose flowers. In making a selection, a due 
proportion of each should be fixed on ; a due propor- 
tion also of red, white, yellow, and purple, of both 
shapes ; and a due proportion of plants of the dif- 
ferent heights from 6 to 30 inches. 

The only soil in Avhich heaths will grow is moor 
earth ; if any substitute can be found, it is in leaf- 
mould sifted very fine, and mixed with fine sand. 
Proper earth is obtained by collecting turf from 
the surface of moory wastes and heathy places, and 

E 2 



59 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



laying the turfs in a heap to rot and moulder into 
earth. This they will require several years to do ; 
but in the mean while a portion of mould may be 
obtained whenever it is wanted, by turning the turfs 
and sifting the fragments. Sometimes this peat is 
found without any mixture of sand ; at other times, 
where streams have run into the bog or lake while 
the peat was forming, it is mixed with fine sand 
that had been held in solution by the water. This 
last is the best sort of peat for the Erica family ; 
and therefore, where peat is not sandy naturally, fine 
white sand, or sand of any colour, provided it be free 
from irony impregnations, should be procured and 
mixed with it. This sand admits the water to pene- 
trate into the soil and reach the roots of the plants, 
and also to drain away from the roots so as not to rot 
them. Pots filled with pure peat earth are apt to be 
either hard, dry, and impenetrable to water, or other- 
wise as wet as a saturated sponge. 

The climate for the heaths is not required to be 
warm during winter; if the frost is excluded, that 
will be enough. Some species, as the E. persoluta 
for example, will even bear to have the ground about 
their roots frozen without injury, provided it be not 
thawed in the sun, or too suddenly, or in a very warm 
temperature. In general the heaths may be kept in 
the coldest part of the green-house, and those not in 
flower in pits, well covered at night with mats, or 
prepared coverings of reeds or straw. 

Heaths require a great deal of air and light, and 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



53 



therefore should be placed near the glass and near 
such glass as may be opened to admit air every mild 
day in the year. They require also very regular 
supplies of waier ; not much at a time ; but so fre- 
quently that the earth may never get dry or the plant 
droop. Many kinds of plants, if they have suffered 
for want of water, may be recovered by an abundant 
supply, and placing them under a bell-glass on a 
little heat ; but if once the roots of heath are tho- 
roughly dried, no art of the gardener will recover the 
plant. This is the true reason why so many heaths 
are destroyed when introduced as chamber plants, 
and also by gardeners who are ignorant of their 
nature. 

Heaths are propagated by cuttings, seeds, and a few 
by layers. In propagating by cuttings, the tender 
tops are taken at whatever season of the year they 
begin to grow, which with most sorts is about the 
month of June. Then take the extreme points of 
the shoots, and with a sharp pen-knife cut off their 
lower ends at right angles, placing the cutting on the 
nail of the thumb, as in cutting the nib of a pen. 
The cutting will be from three-quarters to an inch 
long : strip off the leaves from the lower end to nearly 
half the length of the cutting ; and, in order that this 
may be done without injuring the shoot, use a sharp 
pen-knife or a pair of small scissars, for the least 
bruise or wound spoils the cutting. This done, dibble 
the cuttings into pots filled with moistened white sand 
from pits, or with any small sand from pits or rivers^ 



54 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



or in default of that with powdered sandstone. When 
they are all planted, water the whole to fix them 
still better, and when the moisture has subsided, 
cover them with a small crystal or greenish crystal 
bell-glass, fitted Within the rim of the pot, and place 
them in the shade on a spent hot-bed, keeping 
them quite close till rooted. The free-striking sorts 
will have roots in two months, and the others at dif- 
ferent periods from three to twelve riionths — -most 
of them will be ready for transplanting into pots of 
the smallest size in the following March. Their 
rooting is easily known by their beginning to shoots 
and then the bell should be taken off an hour or 
two daily. 

Many Ericas ripen their seeds in this country, and 
of other sorts seeds are regularly obtained by the 
nurserymen from the collectors at the Cape of Good 
Hope, imported seeds generally arrive in the winter, 
and should be sown early in the spring following, in 
pots filled with equal parts of peat and sand well 
incorporated ; the seeds should be thinly covered with 
earth gently pressed down, and bell-glasses placed 
over them as over the cuttings. The soil must be 
kept moderately moist by gentle waterings, and in 
about six or seven weeks the seeds, if fresh, will begin 
to come up, when th6 glasses may be removed by de- 
grees, and the pots kept near the glass and shaded 
from the mid-day sun till autumn, when they may be 
transplanted into pots of the smallest size. 

Seeds which are saved in this country inay be 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



55 



sown as soon as gathered, if they ripen before No- 
vember ; but if after that period, it will be better to 
preserve them till spring, and then treat them like 
foreign seeds. 

Only a few heaths are propagated by layers, such 
as JS. Massoni, retorta, petiolata, and one or two 
other delicate sorts, which when layed require two 
years to throw out roots. On the continent most 
sorts of heaths are propagated by layers, because they 
are ignorant of the easiest mode of managing cut- 
tings. 

For small collections, however, it will generally 
be found more economical and suitable to recruit the 
stock of heaths from the young plants of a nursery, 
than to attempt raising them by seeds or cuttings. 

One of the best growers of heaths in Britain is a 
gardener of the name of Henderson, at Woodhall, in 
West Lothian. This judicious cultivator has had an 
extensive collection of Ericce for upwards of thirty 
years under his care, and has given some account of 
his mode of management in a late volume (vol. iii. 
p. 323) of the Caledonian Horticultural Society's 
Memoirs. He keeps his Ericas, he says, " at all 
times cool and airy, opening the glasses in winter 
when there is no frost, and letting the wind blow on 
them, and using no fire but in time of frost." 
" Never," he says, " shift any plant till the pot is 
quite full of roots. When the plants get large, 
several of them will continue in good health for three 



56 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



or four years without shifting, and flower well. I 
have plants of JE. retorta here, in pots seven inches 
in diameter, which are very bushy, being eighteen 
inches across, and fourteen inches high above the 
pot ; £!. infundihidifdrmis, two feet and a half in 
diameter, and two feet nine inches high ; Erica pi- 
losa, between five and six feet high, and three feet 
across, in pots eleven inches in diameter : these have 
not been shifted for five years, and are in high health, 
and covered with strong fine flowers from the mouth 
of the pot to the top of the plant." (Caled. Mem. iii. 
327.) 

" A prejudice," Page observes, " having spread 
that the culture of Heaths is difficult, one of the 
greatest ornaments of the green-house has hence of 
late been neglected ; although the method of culture 
is as easy and nearly as certain as that of the Gera- 
nium, but requiring a little more delicacy in the exe- 
cution." {Prodromus, S^c. art. Erica.) 

One circumstance in favour of the culture of heaths 
is, that they are not subject to insects, or at least 
very rarely so. 

Subsect. 3. Geraniums. 

The GeraniacecB come next in order. This is a 
beautiful natural family of plants, comprehending 
numerous species, herbaceous, sufFruticose, and 
shrubby or shrub-like, but all somewhat of a sue- 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 57 

culent or spongy nature. They have lately been 
divided by botanists into several genera, of vrhich the 
chief are Pelargonium, JErodium, Geranium, Phyme- 
tanthus (the Pelargonium hicolor and tricolor of the 
nurseries,) Otidia, Hoarea, JenMnsonia, Cicdnium, 
&c., and they will probably soon undergo other divi- 
sions ; for so numerous are the species become, by 
hybrids produced by cultivators, that it will otherwise 
be difficult to distinguish them. The Erodiums and 
Geraniums are almost all hardy herbaceous plants ; 
those which are inhabitants of the green-house are 
chiefly Pelargoniums, which diflPer from the Gera- 
niums in having the beak of the seed more like the bill 
of a stork than of a crane. The genus Pelargonium 
has lately been beautifully illustrated by Mr. Robert 
Sweet, in his Geranidcece ; but as the specific names 
there adopted are not yet in use in all the nurseries, 
we shall first give a select list of the names generally 
known, and then a selection from the species pub- 
lished by Mr. Sweet. These plants are in flower 
from February to October or November; and by 
placing them in heat, some will flower during the 
whole of the winter. We shall enumerate them in 
the order of their flowering. The flowers of most 
of the sorts are so mixed in regard to colour, that it 
is almost impossible to class them in that respect; 
most of them are variegated with red, purple, scarlet 
and white. The height of all is from one to three 
feet. 



58 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



February, March, and April, 

Pelargonium dipetalum, a small flower, but early ; 

plant hardy and easily managed. 
P. roseum, fine red flower, dark green leaves. 
P. ptctum, beautifully variegated flower, with a pink 

blotch, and leaves notched. 
P. florihundum, showy flower, entire leaves, and very 

hardy plant. 

P. lacinidtum, small spotted flower, leaves much feut. 
P. cdrneum, small flesh-coloured flower. 
P. grenvillianum, splendid flower on a large-leaved 
plant. 

P. pulchellum, bright red and white flower ; leaves 

of a fine green. 
P. ignescens and drdens, deep red flame-coloured 

flowers on plants with small roundish serrated 

leaves. 

P. corddtum and spurium, very showy flowers on 
plants with heart-shaped leaves, tall and very 
hardy. 

May. 

P. longifldrum and longifdliiim, the first with long 

petals, the second with long ovate leaves, both free 

flowerers and very hardy. 
P. elegans, a beautiful and delicate flower ; plant 

rather tender and easily injured by over- watering. 
P. crendtum, odoriferous and hardy, flowers not very 

large. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



69 



Pelargonium Barringtdmi, a splendid flower on a 

strong plant, at one period considered the first of 

storksbills ; it is a hybrid between cucuUatum and 

another species. 
P. cuculldtum, a showy large-flowered plant, very 

hardy, with light-green hooded hairy leaves. 
P. specidsum, an elegant-flowered plant with smooth 

dark greeix leaves, and hardy. 
P. grandifidrum, a large white flower ; plant rather 

of slender growth. 
P. variegatum, striped roundish leaves, fine scarlet 

flower. 

P. crispum, small odoriferous flowers and small curled 
leaves. 

P. gibbdsum, rather difficult to keep ; the roots should 
have no water when the plants are in a dormant 
state. 

P. Beaufortiana, a very handsome species both as 
regards the flower and the plant. 

P. alatum, althcBoides, myrrMfolium, condupUcatum, 
sidcefoUum, acerifdlium, quindtum, amplissimum, 
fuscdtum, pdtiilum, sororium, grdtum, delphini- 
fdlium, cynosbatifdlium, and spinosum, species of 
diflerent degrees of merit, but all beautiful, toler- 
ably hardy, and which are in perfection in May. 

June. 

P. aurieuldtum, a handsome-flowering plant* with 
green leaves covered with very minute hairs. 



60 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Pelargonium purpurascens, a fine dark flower, and 
hardy plant. 

P. zondle, one of the oldest plants of the family, very 
hardy and of considerable beauty. Leaves finely 
marked, and the plant, if trained on rods or against 
a wall, will cover several yards and reach 8 or 10 
feet in height. 

P. marginatum, an elegant-flowering species, but 
rather tender. 

P. puhescens, rugdsum, and ruhens, delicate -flower- 
ing odoriferous plants. 

P. papilionaceumy an old showy much-esteemed 
species. 

P. glutinosum and Mspidum, small-leaved delicate- 
flowered plants. 

P. glutinosum, dark-green glutinous leaves and foot- 
stalks ; flower small but of bright colours. Plants 
much infested with the aphides, to be destroyed 
most easily by smoking with tobacco. 

P. undulatum, virgineum, dtrum, nervifolium, pilo- 
sum, melananfhony ovale, glaucum, stenopetalum, 
puhescens, crithmifolium, and ceratophiflum, are all 
elegant-flowering hardy plants deserving a place 
where there is room. 

July. 

P. cuspidatum, an elegant-flowering hardy plant, with 
small smooth and slightly serrated leaves. 

P. penicillatum, beautifully stripped petals on a plant 
not unlike cuspiddtum. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



61 



Felargomum hetulinum, elegant flowers on a plant 
with birch-like leaves on small woody twigs. 

P. formosum, large showy and finely variegated 
flowers on a hardy green-leaved plant. 

P. capitatum, small red flowers on a plant highly 
odoriferous. 

P. rihifoUum, elegant flowers on a plant with cur- 
rant-like leaves and a rather soft spongy wood. 

P. ahrotanifdlium, small bright flowers on plants 
with finely divided leaves. 

P. tenuifdUum, showy flowers and fine delicate leaves, 
but the plant hardy. 

P. radiatum, large flowers on a hardy plant with lobed 
leaves. 

P. linedre, punctatum, incrdssatum, hlattdrium, gros- 
sularioldes, Idcerum, caucalifdlium, diversiflorum, 
lateritium, and australe, free-flowering plants of 
different degrees of beauty, but all hardy and of 
easy culture. 

August, 

P. lohdtum, handsome red flowers on leaves rough, 

dark green, and deeply lobed. 
P. trutei small flowers which smell delightfully during 

night. 

P. odoratissimum, very small flowers on a dwarf 

plant with highly odoriferous leaves. 
P.frdgrans, a hardy sweet-smelling variety. 
P. tricolor, a small plant with sea-green leaves and 

brilliant flowers, black, white, and red. The 



62 



THIS fiREM-HOUSE. 



Phymetanthus of modern authors, see Sweefs 
Geraniacece, 96. 
Pelargonium inquinans, an old variety with yellow- 
barked shoots and leaves, marked somewhat like 
P. zonale, 

P, tetragonum, variegafum, and angulosum, pld va- 
rieties of esteemed beauty and fragrance. 

P. 6'plendens and fulgidum, brilliant large flowers 
and broad light- green leaves ; the plants hardy and 
of easy culture. 

P. fldvum, reniforme, heteroganum, crassicaule, pel- 
tatum, lateripes, graveolens, Radula, denticuld- 
tum, semitrildhum, and dlternans, varieties and 
species of different degrees of merit and all of 
easy culture. 

September, 

P. Mcolor, a brilliant flower much esteemed. 
P. canariense, delicate-coloured flower, but hardy 
plant. 

P. scdhrum, odoriferous flowers on rough-looking 
leaves and stems. 

P. grdtum, elegant red and white flowers and green 
leaves almost entire. 

P, hipdrtitum, lemon-smelling flowers, and leaves on 
small woody twigs. 

P. exstipuldtum, small flowers, and leaves somewhat 
resembling those of P. odoratissimum. 

P. cdndidum, beautiful white flow^ers and large light- 
green leaves. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



63 



Pelargonium hahameum, quinquevulnerum, consan- 
guineum, obtusifoUum, WiUdenbwu, carnosum, 
lanceoldtum, hy'hridum, and coTtuscefolium, species 
and varieties of different degrees of merit, all de- 
ser,ving culture where there is room, and all hardy 
and easily managed. 

The above sorts are known by these names in most 
nurseries at present; but as the new nomenclature 
of Sweet is coming fast into general use, we subjoin 
a very select collection which flower during the 
greater part of the summer, from the " Geraniacece,'' 
with references to the figures in that work. 
P. striatum, Davey's Fairy Queen ; finely streaked 

flowers on roundish dark-green leaves. S. G. 1 . 
P. ignescens, fiery-flowered Storksbill ; deep scarlet 

and black flowers on deeply-divided dark-green 

leaves. S. G. 2. 
P. hldndum, blush-flowered Storksbill ; light flower 

on dark cordate leaves : it is sometimes called the 

Waterloo and Diana Geraniums. S. G. 4. 
P. ohtusildhum, blunt-lobed Storksbill ; dark-red 

flowers on leaves deeply three-lobed. S. G. 8. 
P. pannifolium, cloth-leaved Storksbill ; blueish light 

flowers on cordate leaves feeling like cloth. S. G. 9. 
P. Mosty^nce, Mrs. Mostyn's Storksbill ; red flowers 

on pubescent reniform leaves : plant very hardy. 

S. G. 10. 

P. carduifdlium, cockleshell-leaved Storksbill ; large 
red flowers on rigid strongly-ribbed cucullate dark- 
green leaves. S. G. 15. 



64 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Pelargonium multinerve, red flowers on kidney- shaped 
channelled leaves ; plant very hardy, beginning to 
flower early in spring, and continuing in full bloom 
till late in autumn. S. G. 17. 

P. adulterinum, KutusofF's Geranium ; deep-red 
flowers from cordate three-lobed downy leaves ; 
plant hardy, and one of the earliest-flowering 
species of the genus. S. G. 22. 

P. solubile, dissolvible-coloured Storksbill, or Duchess 
of Gloucester's Geranium ; light-red large flowers 
on kidney- shaped concave leaves, the plant very 
robust ; water applied to the flower by the water- 
ing-pot or during a shower of rain dissolves the 
colour of the petals, a circumstance which happens 
to only a few of nearly the same coloured ge- 
raniums. S. G. 24. 

P. eocimium, select Storksbill, deep-red flowers from 
la^-ge cordate undulated leaves ; the plant a free 
grower and abundant flowerer. S. G. 26. 

P. ruhescens, Countess of Liverpool's Storksbill; 
large dark and light red flowers on cordate five- 
lobed leaves ; the plant tall, erect, and a free 
grower. S. G. 30. 

P. Daveydnum, Davey's Storksbill ; very dark red 
and light red flowers, on a branchy plant with 
cordate leaves. S. G. 32. 

P. involucratum, large-bracted Storksbill ; large 
striped flowers on a tall shrubby stem, and kidney- 
shaped or cordate leaves. There are several sub- 
varieties of this hybrid known under diflerent 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



65 



names, as * Commander-in-Chief/ * Davey's High 
Admiral,' &c. : they are all fine showy plants and 
free growers. S. G. 33. 

PeJargdnhm ohiatum, oblate -leaved Storksbill ; large 
red flowers on very large dark green leaves (five 
inches by six inches) , cordate and imbricate at the 
base, the stem shrubby and growing to a great size, 
very hardy. S. G. 35. 

P. elegans, elegant Storksbill ; finely striped, light- 
coloured flowers on round leaves and a low plant ; 
it is rather delicate, and propagates best by cuttings 
of the root. S. G. 36. 

P. SeymouncB, Mrs. Seymour's Storksbill; fine red 
flowers with dark spots on a shrubby branching 
plant with cordate leaves. S. G. 37. 

P. pavdnhm, peacock- spotted Storksbill; deep red 
spotted flowers on a shrubby branching plant, with 
wedge-shaped cordate leaves; among the hand- 
somest hybrid Geraniums that have yet been raised. 
S. G. 40. 

P. fldridum, abundant-flowering Storksbill. S. G. 41. 
P. Lousadianum, Miss Lousadia's Storksbill. S. G. 
44. 

P. BdylecB, the Countess of Cork's Storksbill. 
S. G. 50. 

P. opuUfdIium, Guelder-rose-leaved Storksbill. S. G. 
53. 

P. glaucum, glaucous-leaved Storksbill. S. G. 57. 
P. scepejldrensy frequent-flowering Storksbill. S. G. 
58. 



66 



THE GREEN-HOUSE, 



Pelargonium hellulum, neat Storksbill. S. (j. 60. 
P. Breesianum, Breese's Storksbill. S. G. 64. 
P. imbricatum, imbricate-petalled Storksbill. S. G. 
65. 

P. corddtunif heart-leaved Storksbill. S. G. 67. 
P. Thy'nnece, the Marchioness of Bath's Storksbill. 
S. G. 74. 

P. calycimm. Brown's Countess of Roden. S. G. 81. 
P. atrojuscum, dark brown-marked Storksbill. S. G. 
82. 

P. macrdnthon, large-flowered Storksbill. S. G. 83. 

P. CoMlii, ColvilFs Storksbill. S. G. 86. 

P. BaiJeyanum, Bailey's Storksbill. S. G. 37. 

P. ohscurum, darkened-petalled Storksbill. S. G. 89. 

P. Husseyanum, Lady Mary Hussey's Storksbill, 
or Brown's Duke of York Geranium. S. G. 92. 

P. Ucolor, two-coloured Storksbill. S. G. 97. 

P. villosum, villous Storksbill. S. G. 100. 

P. difforme, Davey's Princess Augusta. S. G. 105. 

P. SmitJin, Smith's Storksbill. S. G. 110. 

P, jplatypetalon, Oldenburgh Geranium. S, G. 116. 

P. ScarhrdvicB, Countess of Scarborough's Storks- 
bill. S. G. 117. 

P. formosum, variegated-flowered Storksbill. S. G. 
120. 

P. c/^r^/*aw^Am^/o/^^^m, chrysanthemum-leaved Storks- 
bill : one of the handsomest shrubby mules that 
have yet been raised. S. G. 124. 

P.floccdsum, Jenkinson's Rebecca. S. G. 129. 

P. Watsoni, Watson's Storksbill. S. G. 130. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



67 



Pelargonium Youngii, Young's Storksbill, S. G. 
131. 

P, pulcherrimum, beautiful Storksbill. S. G. 134. 
P. spectahile, showy Storksbill. S. G. 136. 
P. Beaufortidnum, Duchess of Beaufort's Storksbill. 
" S. G. 138. 

P. principissce. Princess Charlotte's Storksbill: a 
beautiful hybrid nearly allied to P. Beaufortiamim. 

P. JBrow^niy Brown's Miss Rosa. S. G. 146. 

P. RoUnsdni, Robinson's Storksbill. S. G. 150. 

P. J(??2^m*o?zi, John Bull Geranium. S. G, 154. 

P. ce'mulum, rival Storksbill. S. G. 160. 

P. Murray anum. Lord JaiTie| jyiuiTay's Stprjisbill 
S. G. 164. " ^ ^ " 

P. venustum, comely Storksbill. S. G. 167. 

P. Willsianum, Mr. WiUs's Storksbill. S. G. 175. 

P. BrougJitoniancBi Lady Broughton'g Storksbill, 
S. G. 181, 

P. lyridnthmwn, royal purple Storksbill, or More's 
Princess of Denmark. S. G. 183. 

P. inscrtptum, marked-petalled Storksbill. S. G. 193. 

P. aurantiacum, orange -coloured Storksbill. S. G. 198. 

P. cahceplialon, Tull's imperial Geranium, or pretty- 
headed Storksbill. S. G.201. 

P. incanescens, whitish-leaved Storksbill. S. G. 203, 

P. mode stum, modest Storksbill. S. G. 204. 

The above sorts are all hardy plants with very 
showy flowers. They are of easy culture in the 
ordinary temperature and circumstances of a green- 

F 2 



68 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



house, — a soil of loam with a little peat, and little 
water when not in flower. They may all be propa- 
gated by cuttings, cut across at a joint, and planted 
in the same sort of soil the parent plant grows in, 
with the addition of a little sand. They require 
neither a bell-glass nor to be placed on heat, but 
merely shading from the direct rays of the sun. 

There are a number of other Pelargonia with 
bulbous and tuberous roots ; but we have not enu- 
merated them because they are more curious than 
showy, and less easy to manage than the others. 
There are also a number of new genera, which Mr. 
Sweet and other botanists have formed out of what 
were formerly Geraniums or Pelargoniums ; but as 
these are chiefly curious plants, we have made no se- 
lection from them here, as they will be found noticed 
in the general catalogue (Chap. IV.) It may be 
proper to state that these genera are as follow, 
viz., "^Campy^lia, Hoarea, Monsonia, ^JenMnsdnia^ 
Phymetanthus, ^Otidia, Dimacria, Isopetalum, "^Ci- 
conium, and Grielum, besides the old genera Erodium 
and Geranium. Of these we would recommend 
Phymetanthus as being the old Pelargonium tricolor 
and hicolor, and one or two species of the others which 
we have marked with an asterisk, provided there be 
room in the green-house. 

The culture of all the Pelargoniums which we 
have enumerated, is perhaps easier than that of any 
green-house plant whatever. All that is necessary is 
to furnish them with regular supplies of water, and 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



69 



to see that it drains away freely by the hole in the 
bottom of the pot. The plants must of course have 
a just share of light and air ; and as to light, indeed, 
they should be placed nearer the glass than evergreen 
plants vdth coriaceous leaves and woody shoots, such 
as the Myrtle and Camellia. When they grow large, 
straggling, or unwieldy, they should be cut down or 
cut in ; for the smaller the plants, in general, the 
larger and more vigorous the flowers and leaves. 
Seeds will ripen on most sorts, and should be care- 
fully preserved, as nothing forms a more pleasing- 
garden amusement for the ladies of a family, than 
saving these seeds, sowing them, and watching their 
progress in search of new sorts. The seeds may be 
sown in pots of light earth, or in a hot-bed, as soon as 
gathered ; and when they come up and show a pro- 
per leaf, they may be transplanted into pots of the 
smallest size. Seedlings, from seeds saved and sown 
early in the season, will flower the succeeding autumn, 
and none will be later than a year in showing flowers ; 
which is a great encouragement. 

It is not an uncommon practice among lady ama- 
teurs to send their Geraniums or a few of them when 
in flower to some of the nurserymen, to get them 
placed where they will be influenced by the genera of 
other sorts, and thus to try what new hybrid or mule 
will be the result. Nosegays of geranium blossoms 
are also procured, and suspended over plants in flowei' 
with a view to the same object* 



7(5 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



A stock of Camellias or Heaths requires to be kept 
up by going to market ; but no person need ever hb 
at a loss to keep up a stock of geraniums by his own 
exertions. All the species which have not bulbous 
or other thick roots are propagated by cuttings of the 
wood taken off at a joint where it is beginiiing t6 
ripen ; and all the thick-rooted kinds, by bits of root 
planted so as one quarter or half an inch of the root 
may stand out of the earth. Cuttings in this way 
may be taken off at any time during tlie summer sea- 
son; and if there is a cucumber frame at work, by 
plunging the pots in it, handsome plants may be ob- 
tained in from one to three months froitl the time of 
taking off the cutting. Many of the nurserymen 
plant their cuttings in the open ground in a shady 
border, and take them up and pot them in the autumn* 
In some private gardens a number of cuttings of this 
hardier kinds are every spring planted in the opeil 
borders, where they make a fine show during sum- 
mer ; and though they are killed by the first frost, it 
is easy planting more cuttings the next season. In 
other gardens, instead of planting cuttings in the 
borders, the plants in pots when they grow old and 
stubby, or aiiy way unsuitable, or too bulky for the 
pot or space limited for them in the green -house, are 
turned out in the borders early in spring, and produce 
a farewell display of blossotiis before they are cut off 
by the autumnal frosts. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



71 



Subsect. 4. The CfTRus Tribe. 

From the foregoing three genera we would recom- 
mend to be selected at least half the number of pots 
and plants to be contained in any ordinary green- 
house. Next we would advise a few of the Citrus 
tribe, as beautiful evergreens, most fragrant when in 
flower, and splendid when in fruit. The following 
will form a very good small assortment. 
Citrus Aurantium, the common Grange, Maltese 

variety ; also the silver- striped ; gold-striped ; 

myrtle-leaved. 
C, ndhilis, the clove or mxandarin Orange, figured iii 

A. R. 608. 

C. medica.the Citron; very large leaves and a fine 
long yellow fruit. 

C. medica, var. Lemon, the Lemon. The lemon and 
the citron bear a considerable resemblance; the 
Iriiit of the former is less knobbed at the extremities, 
is rather longer and more irregular, and the skin 
is thinner than in the citron ; both sorts are con- 
founded by the dealers in the London market. 
The variegated-leaved lemon is ^ very handsome 
plant. 

C acida, the Lime; the leaves of this species are 
almost quite entire and ovate ; the fruit globular, 
smooth, of a greenish yellow, shining, and the 
flower very odorous. 

C, decumana, the Shaddock ; the leaves are ovate 



72 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



and long» with winged footstalks, the wings almost 
as broad as the leaves ; the fruit is spheroidal and 
grows to a large size, sometimes seven or eight 
inches in diameter; the plant is remarkably vi- 
gorous. 

There are a great many varieties and sub-varieties 
of the above sorts ; but those enumerated will form a 
very handsome collection, will look green at all sea- 
sons of the year, and fill the air of the green-house 
with a delightful odour when in blossom. 

The culture of the orange and lemon tribe is very 
simple. They require to be planted in a loamy soil 
well enriched with decomposed dung, and the pots 
sufficiently drained ; as they are apt to collect dirt on 
the leaves, they require to be frequently watered over 
the top in the evenings in mild weather, and even 
leaf by leaf washed with a sponge. They are also 
subject to the attacks of an insect called the orange 
bug, a sort of turtle-shaped scale of about an eighth 
of an inch in length or more, which may sometimes 
be seen on the leaves and small shoots. The best 
way to get rid of these vermin is to brush them oif 
with a small painter's brush, and then wash the plant 
well with a sponge and common water ; some use 
soap-suds and sulphur, but in the hands of ordinary 
practitioners water is safer and does just as well. 

When the fruit begins to set, they ought to be 
thinned and only a few left on each plant. When 
this is neglected and the trees left to carry as many 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



73 



as they may be able to nourish, the consequence is a 
deficiency of shoots and blossom buds for the following 
year, and the tree left so weak by maturing so much 
fruit, that it ceases for a year or two to show either 
blossoms or fruit. 

The orange is best propagated by grafting or 
budding on lemon or shaddock stocks ; but as we 
cannot recommend this mode for renewing or keeping 
up a stock in a villa green-house, unless where a 
gardener is kept, we shall not enter into details. 
Orange trees endure for many years, even centuries, 
if well taken care of, so that they seldom require re- 
newal. The Citrus tribe is also propagated by cut- 
tings and layers ; but it can seldom happen that either 
of these modes will require to be resorted to in a 
small green-house. However, as some may be dis- 
posed to amuse themselves in this way, we shall 
describe Henderson of W oodhall's mode of growing 
the orange from cuttings ; and we believe no British 
gardener has ever been more successful than him. 

Henderson has raised the orange and lemon from 
cuttings for forty years past, and considers it as by far 
the quickest mode of getting plants, either for bear- 
ing or grafting on. His directions are as follows : — 
* Take the strongest young shoots, and also a quantity 
of two year old shoots, and cut both into lengths 
from nine to eighteen inches. Take the leaves off 
the lower part of each cutting to the extent of about 
five inches, allowing the leaves above that to remain 
untouched ; then cut right across under an eye with 



■74 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



I sharp knife, so as to leave a smooth unfractured 
section : when the cuttings are thus prepared, take a 
pot and fill it with sand, sort the cuttings so that the 
short ones may be altogether, and those that are taller 
by themselves. Then with a small dibble plant the 
cuttings about five inches deep in the Sand, and give 
them a good watering overhead to settle the sand 
about them ; let them stand a day or two in a shady 
place, and then plunge the pots to the brim in a 
fi-ame with bottom heat. Shade them with a double 
mat till they have struck root ; when rooted take the 
sand and cuttings out of the pot, and plant them intb 
single pots in proper soil : plunge the pots again into 
a frame with bottom heat, and shade them with mats 
for four or five weeks, or till they are taken with the 
pots, when they may be gradually exposed to the 
light.' — From various experiments, Henderson found 
that pieces of two years' old wood struck quite well ; 
and in place therefore of putting in cuttings six or 
eight inches long, he has taken off cuttings from one 
to two feet long and struck them with equal success. 
At first he put in cuttings only in the month of Au- 
gust ; but now he puts them in at every season of 
the year, except wheii the plants are making young 
wood. With a gentle bottom heat, and close cover- 
ing with hand-glasses or frames, they generally root 
in seven weeks or two months. The citron he finds 
the easiest struck and freest grower; and he fre- 
quently strikes shoots of citron and lemon eighteen 
inches long, and as soon as they are transplanted and 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 75 

taken with tlie soil in the small pots, he grafts other 
sorts on them. He strikes cuttings, engrafts, and 
buds the Citrus tribe at any season. {Caled. Hort. 
Mem. iii. 308.) 

Nothing can be easier than to raise young orange 
or lemon trees from the seeds found in those im- 
ported. Sow in pots and cover two inches, and they 
will soon come up with or without bottom heat. The 
succeeding spring transplant into small pots, and the 
end of that season or the third summer, send for a 
skilful gardener to bud on them whatever sorts may 
be desired. This is an easy, expeditious, and agree- 
able way for ladies and other amateurs to obtain yoiihg 
plants. 

Subsect. V. Various Genera of Woody 
Green-house Plants. 

We shall now give the names of what we think 
ought to form the remaining stock of a small or even 
moderately large green-house, where the object is, 
as we have before noticed, not botanical curiosity, 
but verdant and elegant beauty. We shall omit at 
present succulents and bulbs, in order to treat of them 
in sections by themselves ; and partly because we 
think but very few of them are admissible in the 
villa green-liouse. Though we have placed the 
woody plants chiefly in the order of their flowering, 
yet we have not adhered very strictly to this riile,^ — 
sacrificing it occasionally, in order to bring sevei'al 



76- 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



species of a genus together, thinking this more use- 
ful than scattering them through different months. 

January, February, and March. 

Acacia verticiUata, B. M. 110. 

A, juniperina. 

A. Umfdlia, A. R. 394. 

A. stricta, A. R. 53. 

A. hngifoUa, A. R. 204. 

These are very hardy and most ornamental plants. 
They are evergreens with long narrow singular 
leaves, and are profusely covered with yellow flowers 
for two or three months together. They grow in 
sandy loam, with a little peat or leaf-mould inter- 
mixed, and are increased by cuttings taken off in the 
young wood, and planted in sand covered with a bell- 
glass and plunged in a gentle heat. 
Salvia dentata, finely variegated flowers which come 
out in December and last till February. The plant 
grows in any soil and strikes readily by cuttings. 
Daphne odora, purple flowers on a neat bushy ever- 
green shrub which grows in peat soil, and is pro- 
pagated by grafting on the common Daphne of the 
woods. 

Protea mellifera and pendula, most elegant ever- 
greens with fine glistening silvery leaves ; flowers 
in spikes, but not very remarkable. They grow 
in loam and peat, and are increased, but not very 
readily, by cuttings. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



77 



April. 

Myrsine africana, an elegant myrtle-like evergreen, 
with shining leaves and small flowers in great 
abundance ; very hardy ; soil loam and peat : cut- 
tings. 

Cineraria amelloides, B. M. 249. Blue aster-like 
flowers which are very showy, and the colour, blue, 
is rare in green-house plants. 

C. aurita, purple-flowered, B. M. 1786. 

C. cruenta, red-flowered, B. M. 406. 

Acacia puhescens, B. M. 1263. 

A. suavedlens, sweet-scented; beautifiil evergreen 
shrubs. See Feb. 

My^rtus, the Myrtle, six or eight varieties, well- 
known evergreen shrubs, Avith a profusion of white 
odoriferous flowers. 

Protea longifldra, Ex. B. 81. 

P. specidsa. Knight's Protea. 
Elegant evergreens. 

StriitJiidla juniperinay B. M. 222. An elegant plant 
with needle-like leaves and small white flowers. 

S. tomentosa, A. R. 334. 

S. ciliata. 

S. imhricata. 

Elegant foliage and whitish flowers ; the plants 
requiring a similar treatment to Heaths. 



78 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



May. 

Melaleuca tomentdsa. 
M. armilldris, A. R. 175. 

Fringy tufts of fine deep red and myrtle-like 
leaves ; plants hardy and easily managed. 
Pceonia Moutan, A. R. 100. 
P. M. var Bdnksii, B. M. 1154. 

Splendid rose-coloured flowers on hardy low de- 
ciduous shrubs, which will stand the winter in a cold 
frame ; soil loam and peat, and propagation by divid- 
ing at the roots or cuttings. 
Poly' gala mixta, B. M. 1714. 
P. stipuldcea, B. M. 1715. 
P. alopecuToides, B. M. 1006. 
P. specidsa, B. R. 150. 
P. hracteoldta, B. M. 345. 

Purple and white pea-like flowers on elegant ever- 
green shrubs, flowering often for two or three months 
together; the soil peat and a little loam and sand, 
and care must be taken neither to overwater nor neg- 
lect watering ; they are best propagated by seeds. 
Daphne oleifolia, B. M. 1917. Blue flowers on a 

handsome low shrub that will stand the open air in 

sheltered situations, and which in a green-house 

flowers the greater part of the year. 
Diosma purpurea, purple flowers on an odoriferous 

heath-like shrub, which grows in peat soil and 

propagates by cuttings. 
Bardsma serratifdlia, B. M. 273. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



^9 



Bardsma latifdlia, B. R. 38. 
B. ovdta, B. M. 1616. 

Plants like Diosma ; elegant evergreens^, odorife- 
roiis, with clusters of white and red flowers : soil 
loam and peat : — cuttings. 

Lavatera maritima, a splendid display of pink 
flowers, leaves blueish green, and the wood 
spongy ; the plant requires a large pot and a sandy 
soil ; it is increased chiefly by seeds. 

Lotus jacobcdus, B. M. 79. A fine dark purple 
pea-flower, on a delicate winged-leaved plant 
which blooms the greater part of the summer ; it 
grows in loam and peat, and is best increased by 
seeds. 

Salvia africana. 

S. aurea, B. M. 182. 

S. colorata. 

Splendid scarlet flowers on sage-like plants, of the 
easiest possible culture and propagation; they will 
grow in any soil, and increase either by seeds or 
cuttings. 

Genista canariensis, B. R. 217. Profusion of yel- 
low floAvers on an elegant little shrub which grows 
freely in sandy loam, and is increased by cuttings 
or seeds. 

Gnidia pinifolia, B. R. 19, 

G. simj)l€jc, B. M. 812. 

G. oppositifdlia, B. R. 2, 

G, sericea, A. R. 225. 

Twiggy evergreens with smalj leaves finely mixed 



80 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



with yellowish whitish flowers ; soil peat and loam : 
—increase by cuttings in sand under a bell-glass in 
the manner of Heaths. 
Cistus vaginatus, B. R. 225. 
C. ladaniferus, B. M. 112. 
. C, incanus, B. M. 43. 

Large flowers of momentary duration, generally 
whitish with yellow or dark purple spots ; the plants 
very hardy and increased by cuttings ; soil peat and 
loam, with sand. 

HeliantJiemum formdsuMy B. M. 264. 

H, halimifdlium. 

H. algarvense, B. M. 627. 

H. Ics'vipes, B. M. 1782. 

Showy fugacious flowers like those of Cistus ; the 
plants hardy and of easy culture in sandy loam, or 
loam and a little peat. 

Mdlva capensis. Small red flowers on an upright 
plant which is in bloom most of the summer. It 
is readily grown in any soil, and increased by 
seeds, Avhich it produces in abundance. 

Correa and Pittosporwn are hardy evergreen genera 
that stand the open air in Jersey and Guernsey: 
they have white flowers which appear in this 
month ; but, excepting to fill up a very cold part of 
the green-house, or for the sake of their fine fo- 
liage and bushy shapes, few besides C. speciosa 
can be recommended in very select collections. 

Pultence^a daphnoides, B. M. 1394. 

P. ohcordata, A. R. 574. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



81 



P. stricfa, B. M. 1588. 

Elegant orange-coloured pea-flowers, on singular 
Australasian evergreen shrubs, which grow in loam 
and peat, and are increased by cuttings and seeds. 

June. 

Crotalaria purpurea, B. R. 128. 

C. pulchella, B. M. 1699. Large purple pea-flowers 
on handsome compound leaves : the plant decidu- 
ous, and of easy culture and propagation. 

Epacris purpurascens, B. M. 844. 

E.pulcMlla, B. M. 1170. 

E. grandiflbra, B. M. 982. Fine scarlet and crim- 
son coloured flowers on plants of easy culture in 
peat and loam, and increased by cuttings and seeds. 

Illicium floridamim, B. M. 439. 

/. parvifidrum. The first a fine large magnolia-like 
red flower, and the other a large yellow flower on 
broad-leaved evergreens, shining reddish and odo- 
riferous. The plants easily preserved in sandy 
loam or loam and peat ; propagation by cuttings, 
but tedious. 

Convolvulus canariensiSi B. M. 1228. 

C. cneoruMy B. M. 459. 

C. linearis, B. M. 289. Elegant purple and white 
flowered twiners with shrubby stems, which answer 
to be grown in pots to twist round three or more 
rods or wires. 

hidigbfera psoraloides, B. M. 476. 

G 



82 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



1. cytisoides, B. M. 742. Delicate purple flowers 
on slender plants with light green glaucous leaves ; 
the plants grow in sandy soil in very small pots, re- 
quire but little water, and ripen seeds freely. 

GnaphaUum eocimium, A. R. 654. 

G. grandifldrum, A. R. 489. 

G.fruticans, B. M. 1802. ^ 

G. congestum, B. M. 243. 

G, patulum. Yellow heads of chaffy everlasting 
flowers on white downy-leaved plants ; the flowers 
odoriferous, and chiefly valued on account of their 
duration as well on the plant as when gathered ; 
soil peat and sand ; propagation by cuttings. 

jBrunia nodiflofa. 

B. alopecuroides. Elegant shrubs with fir or heath- 
like leaves thickly covering their shoots and abun- 
dance of yellow flowers : culture as in Erica. 

July. 

Beaufortia decussata, B. R. 13. Splendid red 
flowers on a myrtle-leaved plant; hardy, grown in 
loam and peat, and propagated by cuttings. 

Swainsdnia gale gif alia, B. M. 792. 

S. coroniUifdlia, B M. 1725. 

Red and purple pea flowers on pinnate leaves ; the 

plants hardy and of easy culture. 

Suthei^andia frut€scen.s, 'B. M. 181. Profusion of 
scarlet pea flowers and fine glaucous compound 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



83 



leaves; the plant hardy and readily increased hy 
seeds, cuttings, or pieces of the root. 

CoronUla glauca^ B* M. 13. 

C. vakntina, B. M. 185. 

' Profusion of fine yellow flowers on elegant little 
trees with glaucous pinnate leaves, which grow in any 
soil and seed freely. 

Fuchsia coccmea, B. M. 97. A well-known favour- 
ite, and one of the most elegant inhabitants of the 
green-house. The whole plant has a purplish 
tinge j and the drooping flowers are scarlet and 
purple. It grows in leaf-mould, and requires little 
water in the winter season when dormant ; cuttings 
root readily in sandy loam, leaf-mould, or peat. 

Hermannia Jlammea, B. M. 1349. Abundance of 
scarlet and red flowers on a rugose-leaved branchy 
shrub of the easiest culture and propagation. 

Lavendula pinnata, B. M. 400. 

L. denfMa, B. M. 401. 

Fine-scented blue flowers on lavender-like plants 

which grow freely in sandy soil, and are increased by 

cuttings or seeds. 

Cassia corymbbsa, B. M. 633. Deep yellow pea 
flowers on glaucous pinnate leaves ; plant hardy and 
of easy culture and propagation in light soil. 
Jasminum odoratlssimum, B. M. 285. 
J . grandiflbrum, B. M. 9L 
J. azoricum, B. R. 89. 

Most odoriferous white and yellow flowers on pin- 
nate leaves ; the plants requiring support by training 

G2 



84 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



on a wall or trellis, or by props, but in other respects 
of easy culture, and propagated by cuttings or layers. 
Heliotrdpium peruvianum, B. M. 141. 
H. corymhosum, B. M. 1609. 

Purple and white flowers in bunches smelling like 
new-made hay; the plants low shrubs, deciduous, 
requiring little water when not in a growing state,' 
and the warmest part of the green-house when in 
flower ; they are readily increased by cuttings. 
Buddlea salvifdlia. Round heads and bright yellow 
flowers on a deciduous shrub with long narrow ru- 
gose sage-like leaves ; soil, loam and peat, and 
propagation by layers. 
Platylohium formdsum, B. M. 469. Large orange 
pea flowers on an elegant pinnate-leaved shrub of 
easy culture and propagation. 

August. 

NSrimn Oleander, varieties alba and splendens. 
N. odbruMy varieties flesh-coloured and double - 
flowered. 

Splendid red and white flowers, which, when the 
plant is large and has plenty of room, make a magni- 
ficent show for two or three months together ; the 
best soil is loam with a little sand and peat ; the plants 
require to be abundantly watered when in flower, and 
the leaves, which are apt to contract dust, should be 
occasionally sponged over to clean and refresh them. 
These plants grow eight or ten feet high where they 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



58 



have room, are very hardy, and are increased by cut- 
tings planted in sand under a bell. 
Chironia JasminoldeSy B. R. 197. 
C.linioides, B. M. 511. 
a haccifera, B. M. 233. 
C. frutescens, B. M. 37. 

Showy lake-coloured flowers on elegant little 
spongy-wooded light green shrubs, which grow in 
peat soil, and are rather difficult to strike by cuttings. 
Eutajcia myrtifoUa, B. M. 1274. Deep orange pea 

flowers on an elegant evergreen shrub with 

myrtle-like leaves, and of easy culture in loam 

and peat, propagated by cuttings. 



September to December. 

PJildmis Lychmtes, B. M. 999. A sage-leaved 
whitish rugose plant with singular flame-coloured 
flowers. It grows best in sandy loam, or loam and 
lime rubbish kept dry. 

Celsia Arcturus. 

a Cretica, B. M. 964. 

C. lanceolata. 
Biennial plants with brilliant scarlet, red, and 

whitish flowers which come out in abundance for three 

or four months together. Any soil suits these plants ; 

and they will live if protected by a cold frame, though 

in that situation they do not flower freely. They are 

readily increased by cuttings or seeds. 

Gorddnia Lasimthus, B. M. 668. Fine large yel^ 



86 



THE GEEEN-HOUBE, 



low flowers of the character of LamUra, on a 
smooth-leaved plant of easy culture in loam ^^nd 
peat, and increased by cuttings. 

Crotalana purpurea, B. R. 128. 

Cpulchelh, B. M. 1699. 
Beautiful purple pea flowers on pinnate glaucous^ 

lea,ved plants, hardy and of easy culture in sandy 

loam. Propagation by seeds or cuttings. 

Spielmannia africana, B, M, 1899. Fine scarlet 
flowers which continue coming out all summer and 
often to the middle of December. The plant is of 
the easiest culture and propagation. 

Aldysia citrioddra,, B. M, 367. (formerly Verhena 
triphy'Ua). Purplish white flowers in elegant 
spikes ; but the plant is chiefly cultivated for the 
delightful odour of the leaves when bruised. It 
grows well in rubbish and loam, and is as easily 
increased by cuttings as the willow. 

Clematis hrachiata, B. R, 97. 

C. aristata, B. R. 238. 

C. calycina, B. M. 959. 
Whitish flowers on branchy shrubs which require 

the support of other plants or of props. The flowers 

of no brilliance, but valued as coming out in the two 

last months of the year. 

Statice pectinata. 

S. sinuata, B, M. 71. 

S. mueronata 8-nd echioides. 

The first a shrub, the next two herbaceous peren*. 

nials, [and the last a biennial, all with showy red and 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



87 



purple flowers and evergreen glaucous leaves. They 
grow in sandy soil and are easily propagated by cut- 
tings, division at the root, and sometimes by seed. 
Lmum trigy^num, B. M. 1100. Fine yellow flowers 
which come out in November and last till Febru- 
ary ; the plant not difficult to preserve in peat soil, 
and increased, though slowly, by cuttings. 
JVesMngia rosmannifdrmis , A. R. 214. A rose- 
mary-looking shrub with white flowers, of easy 
culture in sandy loam, and increased by cuttings. 
Trachelium diffusum. Fine blue-bell-shaped flowers 
on a plant of no great beauty as tO' foliage, but of 
the easiest culture and multiplication. 
Arctotis acaulis, B. R. 122. 
A. tricolor, B. R. 131. 
u4. maculata, B. R. 130. 
A, dspera, B. R. 34. 
A. aureola, B. R. 32. 

Splendid orange, white, and purple flowers on 
plants of no great beauty as to foliage, but very hardy, 
and of the easiest culture ^and propagation in any 
soil. 

Dracoeephalum canariense, the Balm of Gilead. A 
well-known hardy plant, powerfully fragrant, of 
the easiest culture in any soil, and increased by 
seeds which it produces in abundance. 

Gardenia flbrida, single and double. This plant, 
though properly belonging to the stove, may yet 
be cultivated in gardens where there are hot-beds 
and a green-house. It is so highly odoriferous that 



88 



THE GREEN-HOUSE, 



it is very desirable to have it in a collection, more 
especially as by judicious treatment it can be made 
to flower in December, January, and February. 
Being a low shrub, it may be kept in a flued pit 
or in a cucumber-frame, in a moist heat and near 
the glass, till it comes into flower, when it may be 
removed to the green-house or drawing-room stage. 
The great want of this plant is abundance of heat 
and light ; it prefers a rich loamy soil well di-ained, 
and should be kept very clean by washing with 
the sponge. It is propagated by cuttings, but not 
very readily. 

Lotus jacohcd us, B. M. 79, 

L, hirsutus, B. M. 336. 

Purple pea-flowers, on glaucous pinnate leaves; 
the plants continuing in bloom almost all the year. 
They grow in sandy loam, and are readily increased 
by seeds. 

Rosa Bdnksicd, B. M. 1954. 

M. sinica, 

M. semperfldrenSi B. M. 284. 
R. odorata. 

Dwarf roses, which it is desirable to have in a 
green-house ; the first is a fine evergreen and very 
hardy, and the others are esteemed for their abun- 
dance of flowers. 

ElichriJ^sum speciosissimiim, A. R. 51. 

E.fulgidum, B. M. 414. 

E, proliferum, B. R. 21. 

E, canescens, B. M. 420. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



89 



Elichry^sum sesamoides, B. M. 425. 
E. fasciculdtum, A. R. 242. 
E. frdgrmis, A. R. 100. 

Yellow paleaceous flowers of long duration, com- 
monly called everlasting flowers, which grow on 
whitish tomentose-leaved low plants of easy culture 
in peat soil, and increased by cuttings. 
We will not say that the above enumeration con- 
tains all the most select woody plants which are inha- 
bitants of the green-house ; but we will affirm that 
there is not a single species named therein that is not 
highly beautiful, and well deserving the appellation 
of select. These, with the Camellias, Geraniums, 
Ericas, and Citron tribe before enumerated, will, if 
assembled together without the intermixture of merely 
curious botanists' plants, and to the exclusion of all 
bad or sickly specimens, produce an effect beyond 
any thing the imagination can well picture out — at 
all events, an effect such as we meet with in hardly 
any green-house at present, on account of the random 
mode of bringing plants together. It is thought 
quite enough if plants which require the climate of 
the green-house are obtained, no matter what may be 
their appearance, the colour of their flowers, time of 
flowering, or whether they are deciduous or ever- 
green. Every thing is obtained, it is thought, if a 
great assortment of species are collected, though not 
one of them should have half the beauty of a common 
myrtle. We venture to affimi, and we request it may 
be taken into consideration by all admirers of plants 



90 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



not scientific botanists, tliat if there be such a thing 
as fine foliage, showy flowers, brilliant colours and 
elegant shapes, then three-fourths of the plants which 
require to be grown in green-houses have no claim to 
these appellations. On the contrary, we affirm that 
three-fourths are plants of meagre foliage, obscure 
dingy flowers, and uncouth straggling shapes. Let. 
us leave these plants, then, to the botanist, who views 
them very properly with interest as component parts 
of his system, as links in the great chain of vegetable 
being. 

In making the above selection we have had five 
leading objects in view : 

Firstly, To ensure perpetual verdure in the green- 
house ; for which purpose we have chosen chiefly 
evergreens, and admitted only such deciduous plants 
(as Fuchsia, Ahy^sia, &c.) as are remarkable for 
the beauty of their flowers or their odour. 

Secondly, To ensure a perpetual display of blos- 
soms : for this end we have admitted none but what 
are considered as free flowerers ; that is, such as, with 
the usual culture, send out a profusion of flowers at 
their blooming season. 

Thirdly^ To ensure not only abundance of blos- 
soms every month, but a due proportion of blossoms 
of each of the usual colours. It is a great drawback 
to the beauty of collections of plants, both exotic and 
indigenous, that the yellow colour is so predominant 
in the flower. Reds, scarlets, and whites are the 
colours that contrast best with the green hue of fo- 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



91 



liage, and we have been most particular in selecting 
an equal number of species of these colours as of the 
yellows. It is a remarkable fact, that there are very 
few green-house plants that have blue flowers ; and 
for this reason we have been particularly attentive to 
get the proper assortment of them. Cineraria, Di- 
dsma, Daphne. Indigdfera, Statice, Convolvulus^ 
Lavandula, Podaly^ria, TracJielium, but especially 
Polifgala, are valuable genera as producing blue or 
purple flowers ; though some of the species, as of 
Statice and Trachelium, are not quite so handsome 
in foliage as could be wished. Purple is the next 
colour in scarcity to blue ; but of this there is a fine 
resource in the genera Pelargonium and Einca. 

Fourthly, To ensure a fragrant odour in the green- 
house every day of the year. This will be found 
accomplished by the Acacia family in January, Fe- 
bruary, and March ; by Myrtles and Geraniums in 
April and May ; by the Citrus tribe in June ; and by 
an abundant variety during the rest of the season till 
September, when the fragrance of the green-house 
atmosphere must be kept up by tree mignionette, a 
plant of which there ought to be two or three speci- 
mens in the house throughout the year. {See Sect. 
4. infra?) 

Fifthly, We have chosen plants of easy culture, 
and which flower well when of a small or moderate 
size. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Subsect. 6. Succulent Green-house Plants 

The succulent plants proper to be admitted into a 
small green-house are in our opinion very few. Suc- 
culents cannot in general be considered as beautiful ; 
they are curious, and some of them oddities, and of 
forms which surprise at first sight ; but who takes 
that pleasure in contemplating the leafless Stapelia 
or the grotesque Cactus, (however extraordinary the 
flowers of some species may be,) which he does in 
looking on a Rose or a Cmnellia '/ None whose 
tastes are not vitiated or singular, or who do not look 
solely with the eye of science. One or two curious 
or ugly objects, however, may be admissible to show 
that there are such things ; and of these we shall se- 
lect a few of the hardiest, and of those which have 
the finest flowers, arranging them according to their 
time of flowering. 

January/. 

Mesemhryanthemiim luteo-viride. Yellowish-green 

flowers on a low spreading plant. 
M. perviride. Dark green flowers on a herbaceous 

thick-leaved tuft rising only an inch or two from 

the pot. 

February and March, 
Mesemhryanthemum semicylindricum. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



MesemhryantJiemum gibhosum. 

M. aureimi, B. M. 262. Fine golden flowers on 

bushy straggling plant, which often continues 

bloom for several months together. 
M. macoimum. Moon-shaped leaves ! 

April and May. 

MesemhryantJiemum pulcMllim. 

M. coccmeum, B. M. 262. Scarlet flowers. 

M. micans, B. M. 448. Glittering. 

June. 

A^loe acuminata, or Hedgehog Aloe, B. M 7 57 , 
A. plicatUis, Fan, B. M. 457. 
A. variegata, partridge-breast, B. M. 513. 
A. ohliqua, broad-marbled, B. M. 979. 
Sempermvum tortubsum, B. M. 296. 
MesemhryantJiemum spectabile, B. M. 396. 
M. stelligerum, B. M. 70. 
M. aurdntium, 
M. capitdtum. 

July. 

Coty^ledon ovdfa, B. M. 321. 
Agave americdna, A. R. 438. 
A^loe picta, B. M. 1323. 
Aizdon glinoides. 

MesemhryantJiemum iiiclaudens, A. R. 388. 



94 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



August, 

Cacalia Klehiia. 
C. Ficoides. 

Mesembryanthemum conspicuum. 

M. eocpansum, 

M, hellidifldrum, 

M, canaliculatum, 
■ 

September to December, 

Mesembryanthemum tigrinum, 
M. depressum, B. M. 1866. 
M. nitidum, B. M. 326. 
M. confertum. 

Semper vivum arbor eum, B. R. 99, 
Anthericum revolutum, B. M. 1044. 
Septus capensis, A. R. 90. 

Anacampseros arachnoides, B. M. 1368. Cobweb 
Anacampseros. 

A number of other succulent plants might be enu- 
merated, and especially if the genera Cactus and 
Stapelia were admitted, as these, though properly 
dry-stove plants, will live in a green-house ; but the 
above specimens are much more than enough for any 
small or showy green-house ; and we must confess we 
would rather none were admitted, than see one-half 
of them introduced and occupying the place of much 
finer plants. 

Green-house succulents are of the easiest possible 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



95 



culture and propagation ; lime rubbish and loam, or 
sand and loam, is the best soil ; the pots being well 
drained, and care being taken never to over-water 
them. Succulents with very thick leaves, as the 
A^loe, Crassula, &c. will live for months without any 
water, and Mesembryanthemums require it chiefly 
when they are in flower. None of the succulents, 
excepting the last-mentioned genus, should be set out 
in the open air during summer, as they are very apt 
to be rotted by rain and cold. Cuttings allowed to 
dry a day or two after they are taken ofl", and then 
planted in sandy loam, root speedily and certainly ; 
and the Mesemhrydnthemum may be propagated in 
this way to any extent, and so as to have abundance 
of plants to plant out in the open borders of the 
flower-garden, to flower during August and Septem- 
ber if the season be dry and warm. The Mesem- 
hrydnthemum indeed is the only genus of green-house 
succulents which has any pretensions to beauty in the 
flower : some admire them on account of their flowers 
and extreme hardiness ; and one gardener has carried 
their culture to a considerable extent in pits ; in these 
he plants them without pots, and chiefly the species 
inclaudenSj aurdntium, perfoUdtum, deltoides, and 
barbdtum. The strong-growing kinds are put towards 
the back, and the dwarf ones in the front of the 
pit. They grow vigorously, he says, and ' flower in 
a superior manner to what they do in small pots : 
nothing can surpass the brilliancy of their blossoms 
in a bright summer day^ and many of them continue 



96 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



flowering during the winter. All the culture they 
require is thinning, and protection by mats over the 
glass in severe weather. In summer the sashes may 
be taken off, and ihe soil covered with black stones 
like rock-work to attract and refract the heat.' (^Hort. 
Trans, v. 274.) There is no flue to this pit, but it 
is protected by being placed against the front wall of 
a hot-house. 

Subsect. 7. Bulbous-rooted Green-house 
Plants, 

There are a considerable number of bulbous- 
rooted plants which are inhabitants of the green- 
house, and a number of them usually grown in the 
dry-stove will live there. This class of plants, how- 
ever, have no show excepting when in flower, and 
half the year at least they have not even leaves, being 
wholly dormant under the soil. We advise but very 
few of them, therefore, to be admitted into the villa 
green-house, and these few we think should be 
brought to it only a few days before they come into 
flower, and taken from it immediately after their blos- 
soms begin to fade, and kept in frames or pits all the 
rest of the year. We shall enumerate some of the 
most showy green-house bulbous plants, chiefly in 
the order of their flowering. 

March to May. 
Cy^clamen ph^sicum, B. M. 44. Purple violet-like 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



flowers on coriaceous roundish leaves, which lie 

close to the ground. 
Gladiolus JVatsdnius, B. M. 450 and 569. 
G. quadrangular IS i B. M. 567. 
G, viperatus, B. M. 688. 
G. Jiirsutus, B. M. 574. 
G.hastdfus, B. M. 1564. 
G, gracilis, B. M. 562. 
G, cuspidatus, B. M. 582. 
G. undulatus, B. M. 538. 

G. Milleri, B. M. 632. 
Trichonema cruciatum, B. M. 575. 
T. specidsum, B. M. 1476. 
Geissorhiza ececisa, B. M. 584. 
Hesperantha radiata, B. M. 573. 

H, pildsa, B. M. 1475. 
H.falcdta, B. M. 566. 

H. cinnamdmea, B. M. 1054. 
Spardocis tricolor, B. M. 381. 

S. t, sanguineo-purpurea, B. M. 1482. 

S. t. violdceo- purpurea, B. M. 1482. f. 2. 

>S^. t. Toseo-dlba, B. M. 1482. f. 3. 

S. hicolor, B. M. 548. 

S. grandifldra, B. M. 541. 

S. g, stridta, B. M. 779. 

S. g, Lildgo, B. R. 252. 

T^dna linearis, B. M. 570. 

I. cafilldris, B. M. 617. 
I aulica, B. R. 1018. 
I.pdttns, B. M. 522. 



98 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



I"<via hucantha. 

L hy'hrida, B. M. 128. 

7. conica, B. JM. 539. 

I. monadelpha, B. M. 607. 

Lflejcudsa, B. M. 624. 

/. curta, B. M. 1378. 

/. columelldris, B. M. 630. 

/. retusa, B. M. 629. The flowers are odoriferous, 
and appear in January and February. 

J. scillaris, squill-like flowers, also in January and 
February. 

Tritonia crispa, B. M. 678. 

T. squdUda, B.M. 581. 

JVatsbnia spicdta, B. M. 523. 

Lachendlia contamindta, B. M. 1401. 

L. lucida, B. M. 1372. 

L. racemosa, B. M. 1517. 

L.pustuldta, B. M. 817. 

L. purpureo-QCBrulea, B. M. 745. 

L. bifolia, B. M. 1611. 

L. rosea, A. R. 296. 

L. unifdiia, B. M. 766. 

L. tricolor, B. M. 82. 

L, quadricolor, B. M. 588 and 1097. 

i. pendula, B. M. 590. 

June, 



Amary^Uis formosisslma, B. M. 47. 
A, hldnda, B. M. 1450. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



99 



Amary^llis vittata, B. M. 129. 

A purpurea, B. M. 1430. 

A. cormiica, B. R. 139. 

A. aiirea, B. M. 409. 

A. curvifdlia, B. M. 725. 

A. corusca, B. M. 1089. 

A. JoJinsdni, the A. spectahiUs of B. C. 

A. venusta, B. M. 1090. 

A. radiata, A. R. 95. 

A. imdulata, B. M. 369. 

A. liumiUs, B. M. 726. 

A.flexudsa, B. R. 172. 

A. hngifdlia, B. M. 661. * 

A. revoluta, B. M. 915 and 1178. 

Panc7'dtium canariense, B. R. 174. 

Agapanthus umhellatiis, B. M. 500. 

Antholifza vittigera, B. M. 1172. 

A. cetMopica, B. M. 561. 
Gladiolus versicolor, B. M. a. 1042. 
G. tristis, B. M. 272. 

G. ccmieus, B. M. 591. 
G. augustus, B. M. 602. 
Babidna tuhijidra, B. M, 847. 

B. tuhdta, B. M. 680. 
B. spathdcea, B. M. 638. 
Aristea melaleuca, B. M. 1277. 
Lapei/rousia corymbosa, B. M. 595. 
TJ^itsenia corymbosa, B. M. 895. 
hachendlia angustifblia, B. M. 735. 

unicolor, B. M. 1373. 

H 2 



100 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Lachenalia nervosa, B. M. 1497. 
L, sessiliflbra, A. R. 460. 

July. 



HcemantJius coccineus, B. M. 1075. 

H. rotundifbVtm, B. M. 1618. 

Strumaria gemmdta, B. M. 1620. 

Crinum pedunculatum, B. R. 52. 

Cyrtanthus collinus, B. R. 167. 

C.oUiquus, B. M. 1183. 

C. unifldrus, B. R. 168. 

Brunsingia Josephines, B. R. 192 and 193. 

B. multijldra, B. M. 1619. 

Amary'^lUs equestris, B. M. 305. 

A. e, major, B. R. 234. 

A. corusca, B. M. 1089. . 
Trichonema pudicum, B. M. 1244. 
T. rdseum, B. M. 1225. 
Hesperantha graminifdlia, B. M. 1254. 
Pocia columellaris, B. M. 630. 
Tritonia capensis, B. M. 1531. 

T. Rochensis, B. M. 1503. 
T. miniata, B. M. 609. 
JVatsonia roseo-alha, B. M. 537. 
JV. rosea, B. M. 1072. 
Gladiolus cardinolis, B. M. 135. 
Bahiana purpurea, B. M. 1052. 

B, villdsa, B M. 583. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 101 

Morea Pavdnia, B. M. 1247, and various other spe- 
cies not exactly bulbous-rooted. 
Lachenalia isopetala. 

August. 

Amary^Uis aurea, B. M. 409. 

A. smmihisis, B. M. 294. The Guernsey Lily, a 
well-known bulb, annually imported from Guernsey. 
A.flemdsa.B. M. 172. 
A. revoluta, B. M. 915 and 1178. 
Hcemanthus rotundifdlius, B. M.1618. 
H. quadrivdivis, B. M. 1523. 
Strumdria gemmdta, B. M. 1620. 
Crinum pedunculdtwn, B. M. 52. 
Tritdnia capensis, B. M. 1531. 
T. uvdria, B. M. 758. 
Hesjierdntha graminifoUa, B. M. 1254. 
Lapeyrousia fissifolia, B. M. 1246. 
Pris morcEoides, B. M. 693. 

PolidntJios tuherosa, B. M. 63. The Tuberose, a 
most odoriferous plant, of which there are double 
and single varieties. The roots are annually im- 
ported from South America and Italy. 

Ferrdria unduldta, B. M. 144. 

F. antherom, B. M. 751. 

Tigridia pavdnia, B. M. 532. 

Lachenalia ruhida, B. M. 993. 



lOi 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



September to December » 

JVatsbnia marginata minor, B. M. 1530. 
Gladiolus brevifolius, B. M. 727 and 992. Flowers 

in December and January. 
TVitsesia maura, A. R. 5. Flowers in November, 

December, and January. 
Hcemanthus tigrinus, B. M. 1705. 
H, quadrivalvis, B. M. 1528. 
H. lance csf dims, 
Strumaria filifolia* 
S. stelldris, 
Amarifllis pumila. 
Tritdma media, B. M. 744. 
T. pumila, B. M. 764. 
Ornithogalmn mveum, B. R. 235. 
O.ldcteum, B. M. 1134. 
O. revolutum, B. M. 653. 
0. eldtum, B. M. 528. 

Scilla brevifolia, B. M. 1468. Flowers in December 
and January. 

The above list comprises most of the choice green- 
house bulbs at present in cultivation : it contains ten 
times the number which we would wish to see intro- 
duced in the villa green-house (for bulbs assort as 
ill with woody evergreens, as do the succulent tribe :) 
but as all of them may be better grown and flowered 
in a flued pit, than anywhere else, we have made our 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



103 



catalogue more ample for the benefit of such as may 
resort to this plan. 

The culture of bulbs is sufficiently simple, pro- 
vided two points be strictly attended to : the first is, 
to take care not to injure their leaves, and to keep 
them near the light ; and the second is, when the 
plants have done growing, to give them little or no 
water. From ignorance of the importance of at- 
tending to these two points, it is not uncommon to 
see bulbs in green-houses, which have lived for several 
years, and never shown any blossoms, especially of 
the genera Crinum and Amary^llis. Whether a bulb 
will blossom or not, depends entirely on its culture 
during the foregoing season ; that is, on whether it 
was so circumstanced as to bring its leaves to per- 
fection. If the leaves were fully grown and properly 
exposed to the influence of the light, then the sap 
will have been duly elaborated by them, and an em- 
bryo flower formed in the bulb ; if otherwise, no 
embryo will have been formed, and no culture what- 
ever during the succeeding year will eflect the pro- 
duction of a flower during that year. All bulbs have 
a certain period of the year, in which they are in a 
dormant state. This, in a state of nature, is inva- 
riably after the seeds are ripened ; but as in a green- 
house many or most of this family do not ripen seeds, 
the gardener is required to watch the period when 
the leaves show indications of decay, and then to 
lessen supplies of water, and shortly afterwards to 



104 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



cease from watering altogether, till the season returns, 
when the bulbs regerminate. The bulbs during this 
period are, on the whole, best kept in the pots, under 
the soil in a dry shady place, and in the same tempe- 
rature as that in which they are in the habit of grow- 
ing. Some bulbs may be taken out of the soil and 
kept some time in papers ; but if this is done for 
more than a week or two, it tends to weaken the 
bulb. The greater part of exotic bulbs should be 
taken out of the pot, and repotted in fresh soil, a week 
or two before their period of regerminating. 

Loam with a little sand, vegetable mould, or mould 
of spit dung, forms a compost or soil in which almost 
all bulbs will thrive. 

The Amarifllis requires a richer loam than most 
bulbs, and I^x'ia and Gladiolus a soil rather more 
sandy than the general average : equal parts of peat 
and sand answer well for most of the Cape or African 
bulbs, and loamy soil for those of the East Indies. 

All bulbs require to be placed near the light, and 
they should have abundance of air in mild weather, 
and plenty of water whilst in a growing state. 

Bulbs are mostly propagated by off- sets ; and some, 
as the rwice and Gladioli, afford seeds. Tunicate 
bulbs, as some of the Ornithdgalums, if cut over a 
little above the middle, and the root end planted with 
the section exposed, will form numerous little gems 
near the margin of the outer coat ; and of most scaly 
bulbs, if a leaf in full growth be stripped off close 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



105 



down to the base of the bulb, and planted in light 
sandy soil, it will produce young gems at its base, 
and propagate by that means. 

Sect. IV. Hardy and half-hardy Plants, that may 
he admitted in the Green-house. 

The next subject of consideration is the hardy and 
half-hardy plants that may deserve admission to a 
certain extent in the green-house ; and these we shall, 
as before, notice in monthly order. 

January y February, and March. 

Early in the beginning of the year, or even in the 
preceding November, and December, some bulbs 
should be planted in pots of sandy loam, plunged in 
the open garden, and covered with rotten tan, leaves, 
or litter. These, after they have rooted, may be 
taken up and placed for forcing in a pit or hot-bed, 
if such are in use ; or kept some time in the kitchen 
or laundry, even though in the dark, till they pro- 
trude their leaves an inch or more, and then they 
may be set in the green-house. Some plant in pots, 
and set at once in the green-house, and others plant 
and set at once on heat, or in the kitchen, or other 
warm room ; but it is a great advantage to bulbs to 
be plunged in cold earth for some time after planting, 
as it causes them to send out more numerous and 
vigorous roots, and when once this is done, they may 



106 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



be placed on heat or in the green-house. Even 
when bulbs are to be forced in a regular hot-house, 
and also when they are to be blown in glasses of 
water, it is of the greatest advantage to root them in 
cold earth in the first place ; for put on heat or on 
water, the roots never protrude freely, and the leaves 
and flowers are in consequence imperfectly nourished. 
The sort of bulbs which may be admitted in the 
green-house are the following, and those imported 
are generally the best blowers. 

Polyanthus Narcissus, several varieties ; say six 
pots. 

Jonquil Narcissus ; two or three pots. 
Hyacinths ; a dozen pots. 

Persian Iris for its odour ; one plant will perfume 
a whole green-house. 

Chalcedonian and Snakeshead Iris ; a pot of each. 

Due van Thol Tulip, Snowdrop, Aconite, Crocus, 
Erytlirdnium Dens canis^ and ScUla vevna ; not 
more than one small pot of each for the sake of va- 
riety. 

Some persons are particularly attached to the cul- 
ture of bulbs, in pots or water glasses. To such we 
submit the following select list of Hyacinths, Nar- 
cissi, and Tulips, from which the kinds wanted for 
either purpose may be ordered. In doing this it is 
advisable to state whether the bulbs are to be grown 
in earth or in water, as in the latter case such bulbs 
are chosen as are of most mature growth. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



107 



Double Red. 
Amelia, red. 
Augustus Rex, red. 
Aurelius Prudens, red. 
Beaute Hortense, red. 
Catharina Victorieuse, rosy. 
Duchesse de Parma, red. 
Euterpe, red, 
Flos Sanguineus, red. 
Gloria Solis, red. 
Groot Vorst, rosy. 
Hirsilia, red. 
II Pastor fido, rosy. 
Julia, rosy. 

La Beauty Supreme, red. 
L'Honneur d'Amsterdam, 
red, 

Madame Zoutman, red. 
Marquis de la Coste, red. 
Regina Rubrorum, red. 
Rose Mignone, rosy. 
Soleil Royal, red. 
Superb Royal, red. 
Waterloo, red. 

Double Blue. 
Alamode, dark. 
Admiral de Ruyter, dark. 
Aristides, pale. 
leu Fonce, dark. 
Bucentaurius, dark. 
Comte de Veri, dark. 
Comte de St. Priest, pale. 



Due d'Angouleme, pale. 
Due de Bronswick, dark. 
Due de Normandy, dark. 
Florus, dark. 
Georgius Tertius, pale. 
La Majestueuse, dark. 
Mignonne de Dryf hout, pale. 
Monarque de France, pale. 
Mon Amie, dark, 
Montigni. 
Orondates, dark. 
Parminio, dark, 
Pasquin, pale. 
Passetout, dark. 
Pourpre de Tyr, dark. 
Susanna Elizabeth, dark. 
Velours Noir, dark. 

Double White. 

Alamode, white. 
Altesse Royale, ijurple eye. 
Anna Maria, purple eye. 
Blan chard, white. 
Blanchfleur, white. 
Comtesse de Dagenfeldt, red 
eye. 

Due de Valois, white. 
Gloria Florum Suprema, red 
eye. 

Grand Monarque, red eye. 
Madame de St. Simon, red 
eye. 



m 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Mignonne de Delft^ red eye. 
Og Roi de Basan, red eye. 
Spheri Mundi, purple eye. 
Sultan Achmet, white. 
Virgo, white. 

William Frederick, red eye. 
Due de Berri d'Or, yel- 
low. 

Single Hyacinths. 
Epichaus, red. 
Henrietta Wilhelmina, red. 
Konings Jewell, red. 
L'Eclair. red. 
Paix d'Amiens, red. 
Emilius^ blue. 
Emicus, blue. 
King's Mantle, blue. 
La Crepuscule, blue. 
Lord Liverpool, blue. 
Nimrod, blue. 
William Tell, blue. 
Madame Talleyrand, white. 
States General, ivhite. 



Triumph Blandina, white. 
Vainqueur, white. 

NARCISSI. 
Baselman Major. 
Grand Monarque. 
Grand Primo Citronier. 
La Belle Leigeoise. 
Primo Luteo. 
Soleil d'Or. 
Double Roman. 
Single Paper White. 

Narcissi are generally or- 
dered hy the half dozen, or 
dozen. 

TULIPS. 
Clarimond. 
Due Van Thol. 
Double Due Van Thol. 
Plus Aimable. 
Pottebakka, red. 
Pottebakka, yellow. 

Select Tulips are generally 
ordered by the dozen. 



We subjoin a list of handsome flowering Hya- 
cinths, which do not exceed l^-. 6d. per bulb : many 
of these, though less new or rare, rank in regard to 
absolute beauty, as highly as others which cost twice, 
thrice, and four times that sum. 



Perruque Quarree, rosy. I Azure Incomparable, pale 
Rouge Charmante, red. I blue. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



109 



La bienne Aimee, dark blue. 
Hugo Grotius, rosy. 
Phoenix, red. 

Constantia Elizabeth, ivhite, 

purple eye, 
Don Gratuity ivhite, yellow 

eye. 

Duchesse de Bedford, white. 
Gekroon Jewel van Haarlem, 

white, red eye. 
Grande Magnificence, white, 

yellow eye. 
Soleil brillant, red. 
Beaute charmante, blue. 
Diadem de Flora, red. 



Violet Superbe, white, pur- 
ple eye. 

Chrysalora, ivhite, yellow eye. 

UOr Vegetable, white, gold 
eye. 

0])hir, white and gold. 
Aimable Rosette, red. 
Bishop of Munster, blue. 
Boronicus, blue. 
L'Ami du Coeur, blue. 
Rouge Charmante, red. 
Grandeur Triomphante, 

ivhite. 
Mon Bijou, dark blue. 



We next enumerate the other bulbs usually im- 
ported and forced chiefly in pots of earth. 



JONQUILS. 
Largest Double Dutch. 
Second Size, ditto. 
Large English. 
Sweet-scented Single. 

Jonquils are generally or- 
dered by the dozen. 

IRIS. 

Persian. 
Chalcedonian. 
Spanish Bulbous. 
English, ditto. 
Peacock, large. 

Irises are generally ordered 
by the dozen. 



ANEMONES. 
Finest mixed double. 
Fine ditto ditto. 
Good ditto ditto. 
Early single. 
Double Hortensis. 
Single ditto. 
Purple ditto. 

Anemones are generally or- 
dered by the pound, hut the 
three last sorts by the root. 

RANUNCULUS. 
Superfine mixed double. 
Fine ditto. 



110 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Good Border. 
Semi Double. 
Scarlet Turban. 
Yellow Turban. 

Ordered hy the hundred, 

CROCUSES. 
Large Yellow. 
Second Size Yellow. 
Blue. 
White. 
Scotch. 
Violet-striped. 
Cloth of Gold. 
Dutch ditto. 
Saffron. 
Dutch mixed. 
English mixed. 

Crocuses are ordered by the 
hundred. 



Colchicums^ single. 
Dog's Tooth Violets. 
Stars of Bethlehem. 
Gladiolus. 
Guernsey Lilies. 
Belladonna, ditto. 
Jacobea ditto. 
Martagon ditto. 
Tiger ditto. 
Pancratium maritimum. 

All the above are ordered by 
the dozen. 

Amaryllis longifolia. 
Regina. 



vittata. 

Ixia crocata. 

Ordered by the root. 
Grape Hyacinths. 
Large Musk ditto. 
Small Musk ditto. 
Double tuberose. 
Tigridia pavonia. 

Ordered by the dozen. 



Double Snowdrops. 

Ordered by the Hundred. 

Fritillaris, mixed. 
Ditto in sorts. 
Colchicums; double. 

The above lists are taken from the annual Cata- 
logue of Warner, Seaman, and Warner, Cornhill, 
who, with Mason, of Fleet-street, are the principal 
importers of bulbs in the City of London. 

If there be room in the villa green-house, a pot of 
sweetbriar, previously forwarded in a pit, hot-bed, 
or warm kitchen, till the buds are ready to break, may 
be admitted for the sake of perfuming the air. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Ill 



The same may be said of a pot or two of the moss 
or Provence rose, of the Persian lilac, and scarlet 
thorn ; but unless there is abundance of room, and 
ample means of forcing them, so as not to set them 
in the green-house till the bloom is expanded, they 
are much better kept out. So much winter brought 
into view tends to destroy the character of the place, 
and render it little better than a shrubbery. 

If pinks, sweet-peas, violets, and other showy and 
odoriferous flowers, can be forced in pits, so as to be 
in bloom before they are brought to the green-house, 
a few of them may be admitted ; but, as before ob- 
served, unless the green-house is very large, the fewer 
the better. A lobby, ante-room, stair, hall, or even 
the drawing-room, are fitter places for forced pro- 
ductions than the green-house, where, by contrast 
with the proper inhabitants, they lessen the dignity 
of the place. 

A few pots of mignionette, both of the dwarf and 
tree kind, should be kept in the green-house all the 
year round. 

To have mignionette in perfection throughout the 
year, three sowings are requisite; the first in the 
beginning of August for blowing in December, Ja- 
nuary, and February ; the second about the end of 
August for March, April, and May ; the third about 
the end of February for June, July, and August; 
and the fourth about the end of May for September, 
October, and November. Sow in pots about three 



112 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



or four inches diameter ; and when the plants have 
three leaves, thin them out to four or at most five in 
a pot. Protect them from heavy rains by a frame, 
and from frost by coverings over the frame, and in 
the summer months keep the young plants under the 
shade of a wall. 

The tree mignionette, which is merely a variety 
of the dwarf sort, requires exactly the same treat- 
ment, excepting that only one plant must be left in a 
pot, and this trained to a single stem. As mig- 
nionette when trained as a tree lasts much longer 
than when left to trail on the ground, one sowing in 
spring will produce plants which will last a year. 
In training, care should be taken to pinch off all 
blossoms that appear before the stem has attained the 
proper height. By pinching them off during a whole 
summer, the plants will be two or three feet high by 
the autumn, and will make a fine appearance, and 
be profusely covered with bloom during the winter. 

April, May, and June. 

Mignionette and hyacinths as during the preceding 
months ; and perhaps a pot or two of Neapolitan 
violets, (a variety of Viola odordta so named,) of 
spring cyclamen, of auricula, and choice wall-flowers 
or stocks. But the proper green-house plants Avill 
now make such a fine appearance, that few of these 
extraneous articles will be necessary. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



113 



JunBy July, August, and September. 

During these months the green-house plants in 
pots are generally out of doors ; and on the green- 
house stage are generally scattered a few pots of 
tender annuals, as balsams, cockscombs, globe ama- 
ranths, &c. In some cases a few pots of useful 
plants are very properly added ; as of capsicums, 
egg plants, love-apples, basil, and cucumbers trained 
to fan- shaped trellises fixed to the pots. All of these 
articles are admissible ; the cucumbers, love-apples, 
and capsicums are useful in every family for pickling, 
stewing, and sauces, and they correspond well with 
the clusters of grapes which ought to be hanging 
from the rafters. 

All these plants must be raised on heat ; and the 
true way to bring them to a large size is, to use very 
rich soil, to plant at first in small pots, and every ten 
or twelve days to transplant them into pots a size 
larger, till at last the cucumbers are in pots a foot in 
dianieter ; the balsams into pots eight inches in dia- 
meter; and the others into pots from eight to six 
inches across, according to their natural size, &c. 

October, November, and December, 

In the beginning of October the green-house 
plants are generally replaced ; but a few of the most 
hardy sorts, not above a foot or eighteen inches in 

I 



114 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



height above the pots, may be kept out two months 
longer in common frames, to make room on the green- 
house stage for a small collection of Chrysanthemums 
and Georginas. These flowers, the Chrysanthemums 
especially, produce a charming effect in the green- 
house at this season, when so few plants are in flower ; 
and, with the exception of one or two sorts, it is only 
in the green-house that they will flower freely, and 
maintain their blossoms in due form and colour. In 
the open air, at this season, the cold prevents the 
buds from expanding properly, and the w^et drenches 
and disfigures the flower as soon as it is expanded* 
Whoever, therefore, would enjoy the Chrysanthe- 
mums, must either force them in spring, in a pit or 
hot-bed, so as they may flower in the open air in 
August and September, or blow them in a green- 
house, or in some other plant habitation. 

For the Georginas a green-house is not essential, 
as they flower earlier in the season ; but by not plant- 
ing a few of the roots till the end of May, and then 
putting them in pots, a few plants may be obtained, 
which will come into flower in October and Novem- 
ber in a green-house, and make a fine assemblage 
along with the Chrysanthemums. 

The varieties of the Chrysanthemum have all been 
obtained from China within the present century, and 
chiefly within the last twenty years. They are, the 

Purple. Superb white. 

Changeable white. Tasselled white. 

Quilled white. Quilled yellow. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Sulphur yellow. 
Golden yellow. 
Large lilac. 
Rose or pink. 
BufF or orange. 
Spanish brown. 
Quilled flamed yellow. 
Quilled pink flowered. 
Early crimson. 



115 

Large quilled orange. 
Expanded light purple. 
Quilled light purple. 
Curled lilac. 

Superb clustered yellow. 
Semi-double quilled pink. 
Semi-double quilled white. 
Small yellow single. 



All these varieties are beautiful ; and as the plants 
are so exceeding easy of culture, we recommend one 
or two specimens of each of them to be grown in 
small pots. They are propagated by dividing at the 
root, or by cuttings taken either from the flowering 
stems, or from the ground shoots. The cuttings 
from the stem make the neatest and smallest plants, 
and come soonest into flower : those of the root also 
make excellent plants, as do single root shoots or 
suckers, slipt off with a heel and a few fibres at- 
tached. 

To preserve a collection in little space, the best 
way is to grow the plants in single pots of a small 
size (say two or three inches diameter), and never to 
allow more than one stem to each pot. Take off the 
cuttings in May, and plant each in the centre of a pot 
two inches in diameter within, in rich loamy soil ; 
place them in the shade, or in a cold frame covered 
with a mat, for a few days till they have struck, then 
remove them to a cool shaded airy situation, setting 
them on boards, slates, or bricks, or otherwise so 



116 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



placing them that the worms may not get into the 
pots. Here let them remain without shifting into 
larger pots or renewing the soil, but only supplying 
water (and manure water may be used if at hand), 
and tying them with black threads to neat rods about 
two feet or two feet nine inches in length. By the 
middle of September the plants will be from eighteen 
inches to two feet in length, according to their kinds, 
and clothed with foliage, and some of them with side 
shoots from the bottom upward. About the begin- 
ning of October the plants will show flower-buds : 
in order to have strong flowers, pinch off all these 
but the centre one and three side ones ; or, if the 
plant is not very strong and branchy, leave the centre 
one only : next, as the plants have now attained nearly 
their full height, adjust the props so as they may just 
reach within an inch of the top bud, and no higher 
or lower unless the plant is very vigorous, when it 
may be a few inches lower. These props ought to 
be made tapering, and should terminate in points not 
more than 1-1 6th of an inch in diameter. Tie the 
stem and side flowers neatly and symmetrically to 
them with small black threads ; clean the pots, stir 
up and freshen the mould on their surface, and remove 
them to the green-house. Here for the first week 
let them have all the air possible night and day ; the 
second week the air may be diminished, and after- 
wards they will bear the usual treatment of green- 
house plants at this season. 

There are various other modes of growing the 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



117 



Chrysanthemum, but the above is by far the best 
with a view to flowering them in the green-house. 

The Georgina is a plant as easily cultivated as the 
common potato, and, like it, the chief attention it 
requires is to keep the roots from being injured by 
frost. For this purpose they are taken up yearly in 
autumn, and kept in dry sand in a cellar or shed 
during winter. In spring, those intended to flower 
early are planted in pots in February, and forwarded 
in a pit or hot-bed, and when grown one foot or more, 
by the end of May they are planted in the open air, 
either turned out of the pot or the pot buried in the 
soil. Those meant to flower later are planted in the 
potato season in May in the open ground ; and those 
intended to flower late in the green-house are re- 
served in dry sand till the end of May or beginning 
of June, and then potted and plunged in the open 
ground. When they come up, limit the stems to one 
or three, and tie them neatly to rods of three or four 
feet in length. They will throw out side-shoots, which 
require to be thinned when they are very numerous ; 
and at no time should more than one flower-bud be 
allowed to come forward on each side shoot. About 
the beginning of October their future beauty and ef- 
fect may be predicted, and now they ought to be 
nicely adjusted to the props, a bud left on each side- 
shoot, and three or four on the top of the main shoot. 
Remove them to the crreen-house, and treat them 
exactly as the Chrysanthemums. 

The Georgina requires a pot at least six inches 'm 



118 THE GREEN-HOUSE. 

diameter even to flower one shoot freely, and there- 
fore only a very few can be admitted into a small 
green-house. These few may be the following, or 
some of the endless sub-varieties which belong to 
them. 

Of the fertile-rayed {Georgina superflua), the 
purple, rose, pale, white, sulphur, yellow, tawny, 
copper, brick-red, dark red, pomegranate-coloured, 
dark purple. Add a few of the double and semi- 
double sorts for variety, though single flowers are 
preferred. 

Of the barren-rayed {Georgina frustranea) , the 
scarlet, orange, and saffron : of this species the double 
varieties are the most beautiful ; whereas of the fer- 
tile-rayed species, the single flowers are considered 
more beautiful than the double. 

Sect. V. Selection of Plants proper for a Con- 
servatory, or Green-house, in which the plants are 
not grown in pots, hut in beds and borders. 

The next point to consider is the stock proper for 
a conservatory or green-house, in which the plants 
m'e not grown in pots, but in beds and borders. 

The first observation we have to make here is, 
that in such a green-house, unless of very great ex- 
tent, the collection must be very limited, because the 
species cannot be kept in such small compass as when 
in pots ; nor will they flower unless allowed to acquire 
a considerable size. Hence it is, that the stock pro- 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



119 



per for a conservatory consists chiefly of the larger- 
growing genera, as Camellia, a few of the larger 
Ericas, Protea, JBanksia, udcacia, My^rtus, Mela- 
leuca, Malva, CTotalaria, Metrosideros, Colutea, 
Cassia, Buddlea, Nerium, StrutJiiola, Lantana, 
and especially Citims. In short, oranges, lemons, 
camellias, myrtles, banksias, proteas, acacias, mela- 
leucas, and a few other Cape and Botany Bay plants, 
are all that can with propriety he admitted in a small 
conservatory : — there they must have abundance of 
room, air, and light; and, as we have before ob- 
served, the free enjoyment of the weather during the 
summer months. 

A conservatory, therefore, can never become so 
general or so desirable an addition to a villa as a 
green-house. It is a splendid accompaniment to a 
mansion or palace, and for such edifices alone it is 
suitable. 

The following is a detailed selection of Conserva- 
tory Plants. 

IJL. largest size; S. smallest size. Those having no mark are 



intermediate between L. and S.] 



Acacia armata, L. 
A. undulata 
A. verticillata, L. 
A. longifolia,,!/. 
A. nigricans 
A. pulchella 
A. pubescens, L. 
A. decurrens, L. 



Acacia alata 
Aotas villosa, S. 
Araucaria excelsa, L. 
A. imbricata, L. 
Azalea indica, single red, S. 
A. indica, double pur ple^ S. 
A. indica, single whiter S. 
Banksia cricifolia, L. 



120 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Banksia, all the genus 
Beaufortia decuss^ta 
Boronia pinnata 
B. serrulata 

Brachysema latifoliumlespa- 

B. unduiatura J liei' 
Callistachys lanceolata, L. 

C. ovata, L. 

Calothamnus quadrifida, S. 
C. villosa, S. 
C. gracilis, S. 

Camellia^ any species or va- 
riefy. 

C. Sasanqua, will do well to 
run up a pillar or train 
upon an espalier. 

Chrysanthemum indicum 
might be introduced when 
in bloom, and plunged in the 
borders as if growing there. 

Citrus, any or all according 
to the size of the house and 
the taste of the owner. 

Clethra arborea, L. 

C. variegata, L. 

Corrfe'a speciosa, S. 

C. "viridis, S. 

Crotalaria elegans, S. 

Crowea saligna 

Cy'tisus canariensis 

C. proliferus 

C. foliolosus 

Dais cotinifolia, L. 

Daphne odora 



Datiira arboreaj L. 
Daviesia ulicina 

D. latifolia 

Dryandra, all the genus ^ par* 
ticularly floribunda and 
longifoha. 

Epacris grandiflora 

E. pungens, S. 
Eutaxia myrtifolia, S, 
Fuchsia coccinea (espalier) 
Gastrolobium bilobum, S. 
Gnidia pinifolia, S. 
Goodia loti folia 

G. pubescens 
Grevillea linearis 

G. buxifolia 
Hdvea Celsi, S. 

H. linearis, S. 

Humea elegans might he 
turned into the conservatory 
when coming into flower ; 
grows nearly six feet in 
height. 

Indigofera australis 

Lambertia formosa, S. 

L. echinata, S. 

Loddigesia oxalidifolia, S. 

Magnolia fuscata, L. 

Melaleiica splendens 

M. hypericifolia 

M. diosmifolia 

M. thy rase folia 

Metrosideros floribunda 

M. rigida 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



121 



Nerium, to he brought into 
flower in the stove, and 
then plunged in the borders 
of the conservatory. 

Pelargonium, any of the 
shrubby species for a year 
or two only, 

Pimelea linifolia, S. 

Pinus lanceolata 

Pittosporum undulatum, L. 

P. Tobira, L. 

Poly^gala speciosa 

P. cordata 

CLIMBERS, 

Acacia prostrata 
Bignonia grandiflora 
B. capreolata 
Billardiera scandens 
B. mutabilis 
B. long] flora 
Cobse'a scandens 
Clematis florida 
Convblvulus canariensis 
Coronilla juncea 
Cryptostegia grandiflora 
Dolichos lignosus 
Glycine Comptoniana 
G. maculata 
G. macrophy^Ua 
G. sinensis 

G. rubicunda 
Hibbertia dentata 

H. grossularifolia 
H. voldbilis 



Poly gala oppositifolia 
P. myrtifolia 
P. latifolia 
P. bracteolata, S. 
Prostanthera Lasianthus 
Pultense^a daphnoides, S. 
P. stipulacea, S. 
P. retusa, S. 
Rosa Noisettea 
R. odor^ta 

Stenanthera pinifolia, S. 
Tristania laurina, L. 
Zieria Smithii, S. 

TWINERS, &c. 
Hoya carnosa {in a warm 

corner") 
Lonicera japonica 
L. sinensis 
L. fldva 
L. coccinea 

Maurandia semperflorens 
M. antirrhinifldra 
Passiflora caerulea 
P. fimbriata 
P. caerulea racemosa 
Pelargonium scutatum 

P. carneum 

P. • superbum 

P. pinguifolium 
P. zonale, many varieties 
P. peltatum 
Rosa Boursaiiiti 
R. multiflora 
Riibus rossefolius 



122 



THE GREEN-HOUSE, 



In addition to the above, which are plants of known 
beauty, we would recommend for the conservatory, 
as for the green-house, some of the newly introduced 
plants which have not yet flowered or been named. 
Such plants are calculated to excite great interest, 
from the circumstance of their being entire strangers ; 
and when any such plant happens to flower for the 
first time in Britain, in our garden, there is some 
satisfaction in seeing the circumstance noticed in the 
botanical works where it may be figured, described, 
and named. 

Many plants well suited for this purpose may be 
obtained from the public nurseries about London ; 
the collectors whom these enlightened and spirited 
cultivators maintain in Australasia, and other parts, 
having been singularly successful. Mr. Tate of the 
Sloane-street Nursery has many of the new plants 
brought from Mexico by Mr. Bullock : Messrs. 
Brooks have imported a number of novelties : Messrs. 
Loddiges receive the contributions of Protestant 
Missionaries from every quarter of the world ; and in 
short, in the present day, such is the taste for botany 
and gardening, that almost every Nurseryman has 
something which nobody has but himself. 

Sect. VI. Of the placing or arrangement of the 
Plants in a Green-house. 

The stock for the green-house being got together, 
the next thing is to dispose of them on the stage in 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



123 



the best manner. One common rule is, to place the 
smaller plants in front, and the larger behind ; this 
is most generally proper, because it brings the 
smallest plants nearest the light. In some cases, how- 
ever, where there is a front wall which reaches higher 
than the lowest shelf of the stage, or which throws a 
shadow on it, it is better to place the smallest plants 
three or four shelves high on the stage, and plants of 
a larger description on the bottom shelves. This 
more effectually attains the object of getting the 
smallest plants nearest the light, and also brings them 
near the eye. 

A second general rule is, to mix all the different 
plants as thoroughly as possible, so that no two of a 
species, or even, if possible, of a genus, may be seen 
together. The object of this mixture is to produce 
variety ; but a little reflection will convince any one, 
that instead of variety it produces a sameness of 
mixture exactly the reverse. Variety requires a 
certain degree of distinctness of character or fea- 
ture, on which the eye can repose itself before pro- 
ceeding to another : but where every thing is indis- 
criminately mixed together, there can be no features, 
nothing on which the eye can dwell with satisfaction ; 
all is confounded, and reduced to a mere chaos of 
forms and colours. Instead of this mode of mixture, 
we recommend, as much as is practicable, that each 
genus and species be kept by itself; and where a 
number of genera form a striking natural order, as 



124 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



the EricecBf GeraniacecBi &c., that the whole he 
grouped together ; not in a formal manner, hut so as 
to show a sort of relationship or connexion, and at 
the same time to hlend in with surroundino: e^enera. 
It may he alleged, that w^iere some of the species of 
a genus are large plants, and others small_, this could 
not well he done consistently with showing off the 
plants to advantage : but such an objection arises from 
taking too formal a view of the subject. By keeping 
plants together, it is not meant to keep them in con- 
tact in a compact clump, but to place them in visible 
connexion in irregular groups, which is quite consis- 
tent with placing the tallest plants of the group on 
the upper part of the stage, and the lesser plants 
nearer the spectator. It is sufficient that the con- 
nexion of the species be recognised by the eye, and 
that there appear in the green-house, what there 
always is in natural scenery, something like a natu- 
ral gradation, and blending of character, in shrubs, 
trees, and herbs growing together. 

Besides some attention to keeping together genera 
and species, or natural orders where the case admits 
of it, it is desirable also to see that they harmonize 
in growth with the adjoining genera or natural orders. 
For example, after the group of Camellias, it would 
be too violent a contrast to commence with Succu- 
lents ; but the Myrtle tribe, or Proteacece, might very 
well adjoin ; then LeguminosecB, GeraniacecEy and 
next the Succulents. In short, the most perfect mode 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



125 



of arranging the plants on a green-house stage would 
be to follow the natural system of Jussieu : but as to 
do that completely is impracticable, the next tiling is 
to follow it as far as we can — and the third best thing, 
to keep the genera together. Neglect of the last 
principle as a general guide is quite inexcusable even 
in the smallest green-house, — attention to it will be 
amply repaid by the effect produced even on a cham- 
ber flower- stage : as a proof of this, we have only to 
refer to the green-houses of nurserymen who are ex- 
tensive growers of green-house plants, and especially 
to the well-arranged collections of IMessrs. Loddiges 
in their garden at Hackney. 

Let it not be thought, however, because we recom- 
mend every genus to be kept by itself, that we carry 
this so far, or hold the principle in so arbitrary and 
absolute a manner, as to exclude all or any good 
effects that may result from a deviation from it. No 
man of sound sense ever holds any principle in so ab- 
solute a manner. That good effects may and do arise 
from a deviation from general principles, we readily 
allow, and on all fitting occasions would gladly avail 
ourselves of them. For example, in the midst of a 
broad group of heaths, it may produce a striking 
effect to place a tall handsome camellia, or to distri- 
bute two or three hyacinths and polyanthuses in 
flower : a tall plant of tree mignionette may have a 
fine effect among the succulents, and so on. The 
effect produced always carries its own argument, and 
justifies the deviation from the general principle ; for 



126 



THE GREEN-HOUSEL 



extraordinary effects, in fact, only become such by 
being beyond the reach of ordinary rules. 

The third common rule in placing plants on a stage 
is, to adjust their heights so accurately as to make 
them dress off from the floor to the top of the back 
wall in one even surface of verdure, like a shorn hedge. 
This produces a striking effect at the first glance, but 
is unfavourable to a prolonged interest, by a more 
detailed examination of whatever species the collec- 
tion may be composed ; only their tops are to be seen, 
and no flowers but what issue from the points of the 
shoots. What we would recommend is, to make the 
sloping surface much more irregular ; by which 
means the eye of the spectator would examine the 
sides of many of the plants as well as their tops, and 
the plants themselves would receive more benefit 
from the light and air. Any mode in which plants 
can be placed on a stage has a tendency to draw them 
up to slender forms, naked below ; but when they are 
crowded, and so nicely adjusted to an even slope as 
is commonly aimed at, the deformity is greatly ag- 
gravated. This evil is beginning to be felt by the 
most eminent exotic gardeners, who now place their 
plants much thinner than formerly, and so adjusted 
in regard to size, that the direct rays of the sun, 
in many cases, repose on the earth in the pots. 
The plants in some collections are often so well 
clothed with foliage from the pot upwards, that almost 
any one of them taken at random, and placed on a 
pedestal, would form a fine single object. This, 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



127 



indeed, is the true test of success in the culture of 
plants in pots. 

With respect to the arrangement of plants in a 
conservatory, the general rules are the same as for 
the green-house ; viz. to place the tallest- growing 
sorts behind, or towards the back wall or north side 
of the house, so as to present a sloping surface to 
the sun. This surface is also best adapted for meet- 
ing the eye of the spectator in the front path, while 
in the back path he is under the shade of the higher 
trees and shrubs. 

But it very frequently happens that a conservatory 
is placed south and north with a span roof, a walk 
round the whole, and one up the middle. In this 
case the higher-growing plants are placed along each 
side of the middle walk, and lesser ones sloping 
towards the side walks. The creepers are planted 
on the props which support the span roof, and which 
form a sort of groined arcade over the middle walk : 
this is the situation in which creepers do least injury ; 
and, in short, this plan, all circumstances considered, 
is the best for a large conservatory. 

It is a desirable circumstance in a conservatory, to 
mix evergreens and deciduous sorts together (though, 
of the latter, only the most beautiful flowerers should 
be introduced) ; and when this is done, the ever- 
green shrub should always be contrived to cover the 
surface under the deciduous tree : at any rate, the 
contrary practice should never be adopted ; for no- 



128 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



thing can be more opposite to natural principles, than 
for a deciduous tree to grow in the shade or under 
the drip of an evergreen. By trees, of course, we 
are to be considered as referring to such woody plants 
as come up with single erect stems, as the orange, in 
opposition to such as come up with bushy stems, or 
numerous suckers, as the myrtle, rose, fuchsia, &c. 

Wherever there is a tolerable collection of green- 
house plants, it is desirable that they should be 
named. To make use of the proper and correct 
names of objects is an important part of common 
conversation, and nothing can lead to a correct ap- 
plication of botanical names, but affixing them by 
some means to the plant, or pot containing it. It is 
also very desirable that plants should be named, with 
a view to children, as the perusal and recollection of 
these names will aid in strengthening their memory, 
enlarge their powers of pronunciation, and create a 
taste for natural history. 

The most common mode of naming plants in pots, 
is to take a flat slip of wood, sharpen one end ; rub 
a little white lead on an inch or two of its smoothest 
surface at the opposite end, write the name with a 
black lead pencil on this lead, and then insert the stick 
in the pot. Tliis is the mode adopted in the nurse- 
ries, and will last several years. Another suitable 
mode for a private green-house, is to put the name in 
black letters of oil colour on a neat small stick 
painted white : but the most recent and pleasing 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



129 



mode is that of using earthenware as a substitute for 
wood, and either writing the name with common ink, 
pencilling it with black or common lead, or painting 
it in oil. Such naming instruments are now made 
in abundance at the Potteries, and are to be had at 
Spode's, Wedgwood's, or any of the principal earth- 
enware shops in the Metropolis and large towns. 
They are in use at Messrs. Loddiges, Sion-house, and 
in the hot-houses of the Horticultural Society. 

A small book, containing a list of the names, 
should be prepared, and occasionally the stock exa- 
mined by it, to ascertain what sorts may have been 
lost, &c. A very agreeable and instructive task for a 
young person studying plants, would be to turn this 
list into a descriptive history, with a graphic sketch of 
every plant appended. 



130 



CHAPTER III. 

OF THE GENERAL CULTURE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS, 
AND THE MANAGEMENT OF THE GREEN-HOUSE. 

This subject embraces a variety of particulars and 
operations, which have for their end the growth and 
•flowering of the plants, their maintenance in health, 
and the general beauty and effect of the green-house. 
We shall first premise a few remarks on the stock of 
materials requisite for culture, and next consider in 
succession the general principles of exotic culture, 
and the culture and management suitable for the four 
quarters of the year. 

Sect. I. Of forming a stock of Soils, Pots, Props, 
and other articles, for Green-house culture. 

It may be useful to commence this section by stat- 
ing a general principle as to soils, which it would 
greatly benefit the practical gardener to keep con- 
stantly in his mind. All plants that are susceptible 
of much alteration by culture, will grow in nearly 
the same soil. All plants that by culture have their 
parts enlarged, and rendered more succulent by pul- 
verising the earth to a considerable depth, draining it 
if over wet, removing other plants, whether weeds, 



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131 



or of the same species, sheltering by choice of low 
situation or otherwise, and manuring and pruning; 
— all such plants, we repeat, as are much affected by 
these and other operations of culture, will grow in a 
sandy loam. This, it will be at once seen, includes 
nine-tenths of the perfect plants (we exclude Crypto- 
gamece); and of this nine-tenths, it may be safely 
affirmed, that they will all grow well in a sandy loam. 
They will not all attain equal perfection in this soil ; 
for some may require it to be a little stronger, and 
others a little lighter than the general average ; but 
they will all grow better than if left to themselves, 
in their natural soils and situations. Of the remain- 
ing tenth of the perfect plants, it may be said that 
they are absolute as to soils, the greater part being 
either aquatics, or plants that grow in what are called 
aquatic soils, that is, peat earth plants. There are 
only a few plants which grow on sands and rocks so 
absolutely as not to be made to grow in sand with a 
little loam. 

If this theory be correct, it will follow that the 
chief earths required by the cultivator are loam and 
sand, from which he will be enabled to form composts 
for all plants of culture ; and next peat earth, which, 
with the aid of sand, will enable him to form com- 
posts for all plants of unalterable habits as to soil. 

What loam is, and hoAV, where, and when it is to 
be procured, are the next subjects which we might 
treat of ; but this we fear we could not do to much 
advantage. Every gardener knows a loamy soil from 

K 8 



132 



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a sandy, gravelly, limy, peaty, stony, or clayey soil at 
first sight ; and it would not be easy to communicate 
tliis fact verbally to a person who only knew soils by 
reading about them. It may be sufficient to say, 
that all nursery gardeners choose it for the scene of 
their operations when they can, and that it is finely 
exemplified in most of the London nurseries west of 
the Metropolis. It can nowhere be better studied 
than in the vineyard at Hammersmith, or in the gar- 
den of the Horticultural Society. 

The gardener knows how to collect loam for 
green-house plants, by paring off a few inches of the 
surface of a loamy grass field; or taking in a body 
the earthy materials of an old hedgerow standing on a 
loamy soil. This should be carted to a convenient 
part of the garden, laid in heaps or ridges, and turned 
over two or three times a year, so that every part may 
be heated by the sun, moistened by the rains or snows, 
and frozen by the winter's frosts. 

Peat soil is to be collected chiefly from peat bogs ; 
but what is better, the turf from the surface of a moor 
where heath naturally grows. This laid in heaps 
will gradually decay, and moulder into peat earth. 
At present there are few districts of country so en- 
tirely subjected to aration, as not to admit of situations 
where peat earth may be found ; but the time may 
come, when this material may have to be imported 
from the north of Scotland, or Ireland, or even from 
other states in the north of Europe. But before such 
a scarcity occurs, it will be found that leaf-mould, 



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133 



especially where the leaves of the pine and fir tribe 
are used, forms an excellent substitute in most cases. 

Sand, for the purpose of mixing with loam or peat, 
or for being used alone in striking the more difficult 
cuttings, may either be obtained from pits, rivers, or 
by pounding sandstone. The siftings of gravel are 
generally unsuitable, as earthy and containing a good 
deal of oxide of iron, known by the brown or yellow 
colour of such sand. Good sand is generally white, 
or but slightly tinged. 

Besides loam, peat, and sand, some rubbish of old 
buildings will be occasionally wanted for succulents, 
though sand answers nearly if not entirely as well. 
This material is best obtained when wanted ; for when 
kept in a compost ground for a year or two, and 
turned over with the other soils, it assumes the cha- 
racter of a limy earth. 

Leaf-mould or vegetable mould may be considered 
more in the light of a manure than of an earth. It is 
formed by collecting leaves together in heaps, carry- 
ing them to the compost ground, or space in some in- 
conspicuous part of the garden devoted to moulds, 
dungs, and other stock articles, and there laying them 
in ridges, and turning them over three or four times 
a year. It is natural to suppose that the nature or 
kind of the leaves collected will have a material in- 
fluence on the mould produced ; it is not however 
ascertained to what extent this is the case. Speechly 
collected oak leaves chiefly as requiring longer time 
to decay, and for that reason being more suitable to 



184 



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use as a substitute for tanner s bark, as a fermenting 
vegetable substance to produce bottom heat. M'Phail 
collected indiscriminately whatever leaves came in 
his way, and he states that the sorts included all those 
found in modern shi-ubbery plantations; they fer- 
mented well, and produced mould in which he grew 
the cucumber, and, with some addition of loam, the 
melon and pine, to the greatest perfection. M'Phail 
is the only writer who acknowledges that there were 
leaves of the pine and fir tribe among those he col- 
lected ; but the influence of these, he says, if different 
from that of the common broad leaves of deciduous 
and evergreen trees, he could not discover. 

From observing the vegetable mould in old pine 
and fir forests, we are of opinion that this mould is of 
a different quality from that of the leaves of oaks and 
other non-resinous plants ; and we think it might 
well merit the gardener's attention to select a quantity 
of this mould, keep it by itself, and try whether in 
the culture of heaths and terebinthinate plants it 
would not be a good substitute for moor earth. 

Mould of rotten dung is another requisite in the 
culture of green-house plants. This is easily formed, 
by bringing together, in a heap or ridge, a quantity 
of old hot-bed dung, or spit dung of any sort, and 
turning it over occasionally for a year or more till it 
becomes a soft black mould. There are three va- 
rieties of mould of dung which ought to be obtained 
if convenient, and in the compost ground ought to be 
kept quite distinct. 



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135 



Thie first is the mould of horse or stable dung, or 
that procured from old hot-beds ; this is reckoned the 
strongest, and when added to earths is commonly 
looked on as a manure or enricher more than as an 
earthy ingredient. 

The second is the mould of cow-dung, which as a 
manure is very weak, and is deemed excellent for 
entering into composts preparing for bulbous roots, 
and even in many cases as substitutes for peat earth. 

The third is the mould of rotten straw, such as 
thatch, packing refuse, cleanings up of rick-yards, 
coverings of beds, borders, or mushroom ridges, or 
in short any straw that has not been mixed in any 
way with animal matters, as urine, excrement, &c. 
This forms the best substitute for peat earth ; and 
for the great majority of purposes for which that earth 
is used, this mixed with a proper proportion of sand 
will be found eligible ; mixed with finely-sifted rotten 
tan, sand, and a little loam, it forms a soil for hardy 
American plants, in which they thrive as well as in 
peat or bog earth. 

A sort of vegetable mould, which we have seen 
collected and used with the greatest success, is the 
following : — Form a large heap of spray of trees, as 
clippings and cuttings of hedges, old pea- sticks, prun- 
ings of trees and shrubs, and any other small shoots or 
branches, chopped into lengths not exceeding a foot or 
eighteen inches ; add whatever of saw-dust and rotten 
tan can be got, and if circumstances are favourable, pea, 
bean, and other haulm, stems of cabbages and brocoli. 



136 



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and other garden refuse ; add further turfs from any 
grassy surface not a clay— if peaty turfs so much 
the better, or of the tussocks of meadows, and such 
tufts of grass and grassy roots as are found by ditches : 
add anything else of the vegetable kind that can be 
got: then, when all is collected that it is thought can 
be got together at the time, turn the heap over, and 
mix the whole well together. This done, get an 
equal bulk of fresh stable-dung and mix along with 
the heap, in the form of a bed, either to be covered 
with earth and a frame, or with earth and hand- 
glasses. An excellent hot-bed will thus be produced 
the first season ; and in the second, if the top earth, 
in which the plants were grown, and dung, and com- 
position are all mixed together and turned over once 
a month or six weeks, then the third year there will 
be produced an excellent vegetable mould fit for any 
purpose, but particularly suited for American plants. 

Quick-lime is sometimes wanted in green-house 
gardening, for forming lime-water to destroy worms 
and other vermin, and to wash the flues and walls in 
some places ; but as this article cannot long be kept 
fresh, it is better to get it as wanted from the dealers, 
than to lay in a stock of it. . 

Scoria or smiths' ashes, soapers' waste, or any 
vitreous gravelly matter, will be wanted for forming 
a platform impervious to earth-worms, on which to 
set the plants during the time they are out of doors 
in the summer months. If wanted, however, it is 
chiefly on the first formation of the platform, and a 



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137 



small stock for annual repairs ; but it is found by ex- 
perience that the most effectual mode, and the cheap- 
est in the end, is to pave the platform with flag- 
stones, or form a flooring of broken bricks and Roman 
cement. 

The next stock article which we shall mention is 
pots and saucers. There should be a stock of pots of 
all the sizes in common use, but chiefly from two to 
six inches in diameter as those most generally adopted 
in the green-house : there should also be a few saucers 
or flats for each of the different sizes of pots, in case 
of taking any plant while in flower into the living- 
rooms. Both pots and saucers must be kept quite 
dry in a shed formed on purpose for holding different 
stock articles, and for the operations of potting, pro- 
pagating, cleaning plants, &c. 

Fresh green moss for putting on the surface of pots 
taken into the drawing-room; mats for protection, 
and for supplying ribbons for ties ; fine black flaxen 
threads for ties ; fine wire for the same purpose ; neat 
tapered rods of all sizes, painted green, to be used as 
props; small wire props, nails, lists, a brush and 
sponge for cleaning leaves, and a variety of other ar- 
ticles in common use in gardening, should be at hand 
in moderate quantities. 

Tobacco to be consumed in smoke for destroying 
insects ; sulphur for strewing over plants attacked by 
the mildew; soft soap for washing off' the scale; 
brushes for applying the last, and a fumigating bel- 
lows for the first, are also requisite. 



138 



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There are no tools or implements peculiar to the 
green-house, but a syringe of the much-improved 
form invented by Read, and known as Read's syringe ; 
a thermometer, and especially Six's registering one, 
which shows the extremes of temperature that have 
happened during the night ; bell-glasses for striking 
cuttings ; naming-sticks and a little white lead ; sheets 
of strong paper or pasteboard for temporary shade ; 
and a variety of other articles common to almost every 
garden, will occasionally be brought into action. 

Our enumeration of these articles may appear to 
some sufficiently formidable, and at first sight would 
seem to deter from the idea of keeping a green-house 
in a small garden ; but in practice these articles occa- 
sion no difficulty or expense, those of consequence 
being peat earth and pots. 

Sect. II. Some general Maocims of Exotic Culture, 

A plant in a pot, though conveniently circum- 
stanced as to deportation, yet is in a highly artificial 
state, requires a highly artificial culture, and is more 
liable to be injured or destroyed than one growing in 
the common soil. A plant in a pot which is placed 
on a shelf or stage, and surrounded by air, is much 
more liable to accident than one plunged in the soil 
or surrounded by earthy matter, or even straw or 
leaves. The want of a steady temperature and de- 
gree of moisture at the roots of plants, is more 
immediately and powerfully injurious to them than 



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139 



atmospherical changes ; earth, especially if rendered 
pox'ous and sponge-like by culture, receives and gives 
out air and heat slovrly ; and Avhile the temperature 
of the air of a country may vary twenty or thirty 
degrees in the course of twenty-four hours, the soil 
at the depth of two inches will hardly be found to 
have varied one degree. With respect to moisture, 
every cultivator knows, that in a properly constituted 
and regularly pulverized soil, whatever quantity of 
rain may fall on the surface, the soil is never saturated 
with water, nor in times of great drought burnt up 
with heat ; the porous texture of the soil and subsoil 
being at once favourable for the escape of superfluous 
water, and adverse to its evaporation, by never be- 
coming so much heated on the surface or conducting 
the heat so far downwards as a close compact soil. 
Now these properties of the soil relatively to plants 
can never be attained by growing them in pots, and 
least of all when these pots are so placed as to be 
surrounded by air. In this state, whatever may be 
the care of the gardener, a continual succession of 
changes of temperature will take place on the outside 
of the pot ; and the compact material of which it is 
composed being a much more rapid conductor of heat 
than porous earth, those changes of temperature will 
soon be communicated to the web of roots which line 
its interior surface. With respect to water, a plant 
in a pot surrounded by air is equally liable to injury. 
If the soil be properly constituted, and the pot suffi- 
ciently drained, the water passes through the mass as 



140 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



soon as poured on it, and the soil at that moment may 
be said to be left in a state favourable for vegetation ; 
but as the evaporation from the surface and sides of 
the pot, and the transpiration of the plant go on, it 
becomes gradually less and less so, and if not soon 
re-supplied, the earth would become dry and the plant 
shrivelled and liable to die, either from the w^ant of 
vrater, or its sudden application. Thus the roots of 
a plant in a pot surrounded by air, such as the pots 
on a green-house stage, are liable to be alternately 
chilled and scorched by cold or heat, and deluged or 
dried up by superabundance or deficiency of vi^ater, 
nothing but the unceasing care and attention of the 
gardener to lessen the tendencies to these extremes, 
would at all preserve the plant from destruction. 
Hence the advantage of plunging pots in sand, ashes, 
earth, saw-dust, tan, or any porous non-conductor; 
and also of shading them by leaves, straw, or moss ; 
or, where this cannot be done, placing them on cool 
stone platforms, which do not admit air from below 
like open gradations of shelves, 

A careful imitation of nature is not always the 
proper mode of treating plants in a state of art. It is 
obviously erroneous when applied to plants of culture, 
as to most culinary plants and fruit trees ; but cor- 
rect when applied to plants of fixed habits, as heaths, 
or plants whose characters and habits in a wild state 
it is desirable to preserve ; as for example medical 
plants, which are all rendered less efficacious in pro- 
portion as they are affected by culture. 



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141 



Though an imitation of nature may not be always 
the best mode of culture, yet no culture can be suc- 
cessful that is not conducted on natural principles. 
No culture can be successful which does not proceed 
on the value of roots and leaves, as the foundation of 
all the other productions of the plant, and recipro- 
cally of each other's growth — on the value of light 
to the maturation of leaves — and of heat and mois- 
ture to the promotion of growth, &c. 

The living principle in most plants ceases to exist 
when they are detached from the soil, and surrounded 
by air. The same may be said of the parts of plants 
artificially detached, as branches, shoots, leaves, &c. ; 
but not of bulbs and tubers, which are entire plants 
in embryo, and, like seeds (which are the same 
thing), may be kept out of the soil for some time. 
The living principle in plants detached from the soil, 
and in shoots or detached leaves or flowers, may be 
preserved for a considerable period by lessening 
evaporation from their surfaces ; as by inclosing in a 
box or case, packing in loose straw, &c. ; and hence 
the value of a botanic box. Life may be maintained 
a still longer time, by inserting the roots or root ends 
of shoots or leaves in soil, or moistened moss, straw, 
or other matter that will supply a moderate degree of 
moisture. Thus it appears that plants when in a 
dormant state are not entirely so ; but that there is 
going on a certain degree of circulation of sap, or 
waste of life, and which of course requires a supply. 

All extraordinary stimuli applied to plants, as 



142 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



manures, heat at an usual season, &c. in proportion 
to the effects they produce, leave a corresponding 
weakness when withdrawn. An extraordinary pro- 
duce of blossoms, or fruits, in any one season, is com- 
monly followed by a less than ordinary display in the 
season following. 

The two greatest stimulants to growth are water 
and heat ; the one should never be applied to any 
great extent without the other, and both should be 
used rather to second the efforts of nature, than to 
force her into activity. Thus, when plants are grow- 
ing vigorously they should be watered freely; when 
slowly, sparingly ; when dormant very seldom ; and 
in the case of bulbs and tubers in a dormant state, 
scarcely at all till shortly before their season of re- 
vegetation. 

As water and heat are the greatest stimulants to 
growth, so light is the greatest stimulant to perfect 
that growth, and render it mature. Plants will grow 
for a time with water, heat, and air only, but not 
long ; and their productions will never be of a green 
colour ; nor will their blossoms or fruits ever arrive 
at the slightest degree of perfection. 

The art of man can supply to plants everything 
but light ; therefore, in placing plants in artificial cir- 
cumstances, light is the first object requiring atten- 
tion. Plants, to enjoy the full benefit of light, must 
enjoy it directly from the sun ; light which has its 
rays much deranged "by refraction or decomposition, 
as by a prism for example, will not produce the same 



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143 



greenth of leaves, brilliant-coloured blossoms and 
fruits, as light which has not passed through glass. 
But as all plants in green-houses can only enjoy their 
light, or at least a great portion of it, by receiving it 
through glass, hence the necessity of choosing the 
very best glass — that which is clearest and has fewest 
inequalities of surface, in order that the light may 
pass through it as little changed as possible. Ex- 
perience proves that the rays of light after passing 
through glass are considerably more decomposed, or 
at all events much more unfavourable to vegetation, 
the distance of a yard or two from the glass, than 
close to its surface. Hence the great importance of 
placing plants near the glass. 

Light being required for bringing the leaves of 
plants to perfection, it follows that plants which grow 
all the year, as some Gemniacece, must require 
abundance of light all the year ; but that others which 
grow only once a year, as camellias and oranges, may 
pass a part of the year with less light than when they 
are in a growing state. Nature acts in conformity 
to this law, and generally produces the growth of 
plants at a season of the year when most light is af- 
forded for maturation. There are a few plants which 
grow perpetually ; but these are chiefly natives of the 
tropics, where the light is nearly equal through the 
year. The practical conclusion to be drawn from 
these remarks is, that such green-house plants as are 
in a growing state should, as far as is consistent with 
other arrangements, be placed nearest the light ; and 



144 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



that those which have done growing, and have ma- 
tured their leaves, may be placed in situations much 
less illuminated than the others. 

The habits of plants as to dropping their leaves 
are different. Some part with the whole annually, 
and at once, and leave the plant bare, as deciduous 
plants ; others part only with a portion annually, and 
retain a sufficiency to render them perpetually clothed, 
as evergreens. The first suffer no injury from being 
kept whilst in a naked state in a situation with little 
or no light. Hence some green-house plants, as the 
Fuchsia, Aloy^sia, &c., may be removed from the 
stage in their resting-season, and placed under it, or 
in any dark part of the house, or in a temperate shed 
or cellar. 

Air (independently of its motion as wind) is es- 
sential to every function of plants, from germination 
to ripening the seeds. A free circulation of air is 
essential to the flavouring of fruits, and in green- 
houses to the carrying off of damp unwholesome va- 
pours, or excess of moisture in the atmosphere, which, 
when not accompanied by abundance of light and 
heat, is apt to create a mouldiness on plants and the 
surface of their pots, and encourage the growth of 
mosses and fungi, which are doubly injurious to 
plants, by impeding transpiration and imbibing their 
nourishment. As from the moist state of the earth 
in the pots, and the warm temperature of the green- 
house compared with that of the open air during 
winter, its atmosphere must then be powerfully 



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145 



charged with moisture, hence the daily attention re- 
quired to admit fresh air and promote its circulation. 

As the presence of air is essential to the growth 
of plants, and of fresh air to their healthy state, so 
the action of wind is essential to their strength, 
Strength of stem is not necessary to all plants, for 
example, to creepers and climbers, Avhich, whatever 
advantage they derive from air, benefit little or no- 
thing from wind ; nor do they require to possess the 
strength of stem which wind gives, because nature 
has furnished them with the means of attaching 
themselves to other plants with strong stems. Wind 
produces in green-house plants what is called bushy- 
ness, or a close compact branchy form, which is 
always the best for a shrub in a pot, as a single stem 
with a head is the best for a small tree, as in the 
case of the orange. A salutary degree of wind is 
admitted to the green-house by opening the doors, 
and as much of the glazed covering and sides as 
possible, when it is gently windy in the open air ; and 
the full effect of wind is enjoyed when the plants are 
set out in the open garden during the summer months. 
One suggestion of importance we offer as connected 
with the latter practice : it is, that when benefit is 
expected from the wind, the tall plants should not be 
tied to cross rods or lines by their tops, as is com- 
monly the practice, but near the lower ends of their 
stems. By this means the wind is enabled to bring 
the upper part of the stem, that is, all that is above 
the tie, into motion, — a thing essential to their bene- 

L 



146 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



j&ting by wind. Where the stem of a plant is fixed 
by the common mode of tying, the wind may invigo- 
rate the branches to such a degree as to render them 
too heavy for the slender stem from which they issue, 
and which, owing to the mode of tying, the wind 
cannot invigorate. 

The habits of plants may be altered to a surprising 
extent. The most vigorous timber tree, trained in 
the horizontal manner against a wall, like a garden 
pear-tree, will not produce its massy trunk, as when 
exposed on all sides to the influence of the weather. 
A shoot of the common pink, carnation, or sweet- 
william, if left singly on a root and trained upright 
to a prop, will form a not inelegant little evergreen 
tree, and the same may be said of mignionette, and 
some of the annual violets. Some annual plants, if 
their flowers be constantly pinched off when they be- 
gin to appear, will become perennial, and perennial 
plants, forced, often become annual or biennial. 

Plants which have a natural tendency to propagate 
themselves by suckers, bulbs, runners, &c., are ge- 
nerally sparing in their production of seeds. Annual 
plants can seldom be readily propagated by other 
means than by seeds, and hence they are almost 
always fertile in their production. In all woody 
plants which propagate themselves abundantly by 
extension, it will increase the tendency to produce 
blossoms, to remove all suckers, and all shoots and 
branches near the ground, by which the whole of the 
vigour of the plant is thrown into its upper parts ; 



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147 



and the upper parts of almost all plants are those 
where blossoms are first produced. 

Where woody plants so treated are yet tardy of 
producing flowers, this tendency may be promoted by 
cutting off a ring of bark from the stem ; or from any 
one of the branches of the plant, if the effect is 
meant to be limited to a branch. The season for 
performing this operation is when the plant is in a 
growing state in spring : the ring or circle of bark 
should not exceed a fourth of an inch in width, in 
order that it may heal up at the end of the same season, 
or in the course of the next year. In green-house 
plants, the best part of the stem on which to perform 
the operation, is immediately under the surface of the 
soil, by which means the notch is unseen. The ring 
should penetrate to the wood, but no deeper. 

The rationale of the operation of ringing is as fol- 
lows : — The sap of plants, when they begin to grow 
in spring, rises from the roots to the upper extremi- 
ties of the shoots through the vessels of the wood, 
and chiefly of the young wood : it is elaborated or 
prepared by the leaves, it is supposed, as the blood of 
man is by his lungs and liver, and then it is returned 
by the bark, nourishing each part as it goes along, and 
carrying down a large supply of nourishment to de- 
posit in the root for next season. Now the ring, it is 
further supposed, intercepts the supply of nourishment 
on its way to the root, and obliges it to be deposited 
in the buds of the branches ; thus giving a great acces- 
sion of force to them, and causing some or many of them 

I, 2 



148 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



to become blossom buds, which would not otherwise 
have been so. These blossom buds of course come 
into operation the succeeding year, while in the mean 
time the ring has grown up, and the circulation of the 
sap goes on in its usual way. If it does not grow up, 
but continues open from having been made too wide, or 
from other causes, the plant will become weaker and 
weaker every year, and in a few years die. This 
stimulus, therefore, though useful with over-luxuriant 
plants_, requires to be used with caution. 

Ringing after a plant is in blossom having the 
same tendency to stop up, and throw back into the 
stem and branches that part of the concocted sap or 
blood intended for the root, will aid in causing the 
blossoms to set, and in maturing the seed and en- 
larging the fruit of fruit-trees produced the same year. 

That part of a plant which has most tendency to 
increase its magnitude, or to produce blossoms, is the 
least suitable for being taken off to be used as cut- 
tings or grafts. Thus the top shoots of heaths, and 
the tops of the vigorous shoots or suckers of roses, 
and of oranges, camellias, and all plants struck by 
cuttings, will not strike so readily as the less vigorous 
horizontal side-shoots, and especially such as are near 
the ground. 

Although planting, transplanting, grafting, and 
other important operations of culture are performed 
with most ease, expedition, and certainty of success, 
at particular seasons, yet there is scarcely any season 
in which they may not be performed, if extraordinary 



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149 



care be taken in the performance, and in regulating 
the elements of growth, as heat, light, air, water, &c., 
afterwards. 

These maxims refer chiefly to the green-house; 
and perhaps they may expand a little the ideas of 
such readers as may be but slightly acquainted either 
with practical gardening or vegetable physiology. 
To the gardener who is ambitious of operating on 
just principles, they will be of some assistance in 
enabling him to generalize his ideas on different parts 
of his art. 

Sect. III. Management of Green-house Plants in 
Summer, 

Whether the erection of the green-house was com- 
pleted and stocked with plants in the autumn or 
spring, the first important operation required to be 
performed in their management is the process of 
shifting, and this almost always takes place in the 
beginning of the summer quarter. 

Shifting is the transplanting of the plants from 
one pot to another ; generally from a smaller pot to 
a larger, but sometimes to a smaller pot, or to one of 
the same size. The common object is to strengthen 
the roots of the plant by a supply of fresh mould; 
and an occasional object may be to change the man- 
ner of growth of the plant by a change of mould and 
a change of pot. All plants in pots require shifting 
occasionally, for so small a quantity of earth as a pot 



150 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



contains is easily exhausted ; but some plants require 
it more frequently than others, from the nature of 
their roots and their habits of growth. Plants that 
transpire freely, as the Geranidcece and Scitaminece, 
require more frequent renewals of mould, than such 
as have few pores on their surface, as the Ericece, 
Succulents, &c. The reason is sufficiently obvious ; 
the former orders of plants requiring much larger 
supplies of water than the other. 

No garden, however small, which contains a green- 
house, or pits and frames, can be without a shed for 
holding tools, pots, and other articles ; and in this 
shed there is generally a table or bench for shifting, 
and for other operations with plants in pots. Prepa- 
ratory to shifting, there should be a quantity of dif- 
ferent-sized pots looked out and cleaned, and sherds 
or pieces of broken pots prepared for covering the 
holes in their bottoms ; next, some loam, peat, sand, 
and vegetable mould should be sifted, and laid on 
heaps on the back part of the bench ; and at hand in 
the shed there should be a pot or two of gravel for 
covering the bottoms of some pots, in addition to 
the sherds or crocks, some lime-rubbish, props, and 
ties, &c. 

About the middle or end of May, the operation 
may be commenced, by removing a few plants from 
one end of the stage to the shed. Then taking one 
of the pots, proceed to turn the plant out of it with 
the ball of earth entire, by turning the pot upside 
down, and striking the edge of the pot against the 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



151 



front edge of the table or bench. Examine the roots 
if they are healthy, much matted, or but sparingly 
wound round the ball of earth. If they are not 
healthy, the best plan will be to shake off all the earth, 
and cut off all the unhealthy fibres, and repot the plant 
in a smaller pot well drained, first by placing a sherd 
with the hollow side over the hole, and next by co- 
vering the bottom of the pot with an inch of gravel ; 
and the mould used should have a little more sand 
added to it than what is given to the plant in its 
healthy state, in order to let the water pass freely 
through it to the gravel. 

If the ball is much matted with roots, and these 
are in a healthy state, it is a sure indication of the 
vigour of the plant, and its requiring a larger pot ; 
and if it be desired that the plant should continue in- 
creasing in size, a larger pot may be given it. If, on 
the contrary, it be desired that the size of the plant 
should not be increased on account of want of room 
in the green-house, then, without cutting or breaking 
the roots, the ball should be broken, and the greater 
part of the earth shaken out from among the roots, 
and the plant replaced in the same pot, (previously 
cleared and a crock put on the hole,) and carefully 
filled in with fresh mould ; lifting the pot and striking 
its bottom against the surface of the bench to cause 
the mould to settle properly about the roots, and 
gently thrusting a small round stick not larger than 
a man's little finger down among the roots for the 
same purpose. 



152 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



If the plant is to be shifted into the same or a 
larger pot, this is always done with the ball nearly- 
entire, and the web of fibres preserved untouched. 
Pick out from the under side of the ball the sherds or 
other matters used in covering the pot, and remove 
from its upper surface as much of the earth as is^ 
hard, sodden, mossy, or without roots. Then loosen 
the earth and matted roots, by gently patting the side 
of the ball with the hand, or by moderately pressing 
it between both hands. Shake off all the earth thus 
loosened, and having the pot in which it formerly 
was, cleaned, or another pot of the same size, or a, 
larger pot^ ready prepared, put in a quantity of fresh 
mould sufficient to raise the crown of the roots to 
about half an inch below the rim of the pot. On this 
mould set the plant, and add more earth round it, 
lightly beating the pot on the bench to settle it among 
the fibres, and using a small flat stick or spatula to 
press it down between the ball and the rim of the 
pot, taking care that no injury is done to the web of 
fibres. Add mould till the surface of the whole is 
level with the rim of the pot ; and having given the 
last gentle beat on the bench, and seen that the stem 
of the plant stands upright, and at right angles to the 
surface of the pot, set it on a level surface beside the 
others which are shifted, there to be watered and 
stand till the earth settles. 

Instead of the above mode, the former practice, 
and one still persisted in by some old gardeners, is, 
to pare off the greater part of the web of fibres with 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



153 



a knife, and then, without even loosening the remain- 
ing part of the ball, to set it in a large pot among 
fresh earth. As the mouths as absorbing pores of the 
fibres are chiefly at the extreme ends of the fibres, 
the absurdity of this practice is evident, and only the 
most hardy free- growing kinds of plants can with- 
stand it. If practised on the finer heaths, proteas, 
and camellias, it would either kill them at once, or 
render them so weakly that they would not recover 
for several years, even if put under good management. 
An experienced writer on plants in pots, the late Mr. 
Gushing, foreman of the hot-houses at the Hammer- 
smith nursery, states, that he believes ' more plants 
have been destroyed by this practice, than by any 
other point of mismanagement whatever.' 

If the plant be in a healthy state, and the roots but 
sparingly wound round the ball of earth, the size of 
pot need not be increased ; but the drainage and sur- 
face must be removed, and the plant replaced on a 
fresh drainage with a little mould, and surfaced over 
in the same manner. Well shaken, it may be set on 
the platform or floor and watered. 

Green-house plants for the most part require a con- 
siderable share of pot room, especially the deciduous 
kinds which grow in rich soil, and have large leaves, 
as the GeraniacecB ; but great caution is necessary to 
avoid over-potting such kinds as grow in peat soil ; 
these plants being always much more easily killed in 
large than in small pots. It is common for theoretical 
cultivators to observe, that the larger the mass of 



154 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



earth in the pot, the nearer the state of nature, the 
more the nourishment, and the less the influence of 
extreme heat or cold on the roots. But these argu- 
ments, though plausible, are found by every practical 
gardener to be quite fallacious. The reason seems 
to be, that the water which is necessarily often applied 
to large masses of earth in pots, when such earth is 
not fully occupied by roots, stagnates and rots the 
fibres, and the consequence is, that sodden appear- 
ance, commonly called souring the soil, in which no 
plant however hardy will prosper. 

A dozen or two of the plants being shifted, and 
once or twice watered with a rose or dispenser on the 
watering-pot, so as to settle the earth well about the 
roots, then begin with the first plant shifted, place it 
on the bench, and see if it requires pruning, tying to 
a prop, or otherwise dressing, before returning it to 
the house. Perform these things with all those 
shifted, and afterwards return them to the green- 
house, and replace them on the stage as before ; un- 
less some from disease have been so deprived of roots 
as to render it necessary to put them in a part of the 
house where they may be shaded for a few days. 

In general, however, it is best in the course of 
taking out the plants for shifting to put to one side all 
diseased plants, or such as are covered with insects, 
or are overgrown and require cutting down, or extra- 
ordinary pruning, till the end, when they can be 
attended to by themselves. 

In pruning, thinning, and tying up green-house 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



155 



plants, the greatest nicety is required, so as to pre- 
serve a symmetrical form, and yet graceful airy appear- 
ance. All cuts should be made close under an eye, 
or bud, or leaf, or protruding shoot, and with a sharp 
penknife. Elegant tapering rods painted of a light 
green, and small black threads, should be used as 
ties, neatly cut off at the knots, and not so tightly 
put round the shoots of the plant as to impede the 
progress of the sap in the bark, and cause, as often 
happens with common matting ties, a swelled ring 
above the tie. 

If plants require to be washed to free them from 
insects or dirt, the best way is to use a soft sponge 
for the leaves, and a small brush for the stems and 
branches ; and to use no liquid but pure water. 
Many other washes and compositions are recom- 
mended ; but excepting one, which we shall afterwards 
mention as fit to be applied to the flues and some 
parts of the walls, we consider nothing so efficacious 
as the liberal use of clean water. 

When the plants are all shifted and replaced, and 
those which have been deprived of most of their roots 
shaded, it will be necessary for a few days to watch 
for any changes that may take place. If the weather 
happens to be cloudy, it is probable nothing will occur ; 
but if there should be much bright sun- shine, some 
of the plants that have had a good deal of earth taken 
from their roots, will probably flag or droop their 
leaves. When this occurs, the best mode is at once 
to shade the whole house during three or four hours 



156 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



of the middle of each day, by spreading mats over 
the roof. This and gentle waterings twice a day will 
completely re-establish the whole. 

This brings us to the conclusion of the first grand 
summer operation, and indeed the most important of 
the whole year. The next is the taking out the 
plants, and placing them in their summer quarters. 

The middle of June is the usual period for placing 
green-house plants in the open air ; though the har- 
dier kinds, as myrtles, diosmas, correas, and most of 
the green-house plants which are natives of the south 
of Europe, might be put out by the end of May. 
An old rule of gardeners was, to venture them out 
when the mulberry had expanded its foliage. 

The object in view in placing out green-house 
plants, is to harden and invigorate them by exposing 
them to the weather, and to lessen the trouble of 
attending to them, by enabling them to receive the 
natural rains and dews, and by rendering less fre- 
quent the labour of opening and shutting the green- 
house sashes. In part also the object is, to get the 
use of the green-house for growing a few tender an- 
nuals. 

The situation in which they are to be placed in the 
open air should be sheltered from high winds, but 
not locked up from moderate breezes ; it should be 
somewhat shaded, so as to moderate evaporation 
from the surface of the leaves of the plants, which is 
greatly increased by the direct influence of the sun, 
and the greater dryness of the air with which they 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



157 



are now surrounded than that of the green-house : 
and it should have a surface impervious to worms, as, 
next to over-watering, nothing is more injurious to 
plants in pots than these vermin. 

If there be no platform with all these requisites, 
then situations may be chosen in the north or east 
side of walls or hedges, or a situation may be pre- 
pared on purpose. This is to be done by surround- 
ing and intersecting it by wattled hurdles (pannels of 
wicker-work, generally five or six feet long and four 
or four and a half feet high), and by levelling the 
ground, saturating it with, lime-water, then coating it 
over with slaked lime and gravel, or lime and ashes, 
or soapers' waste, and lastly rolling these till they 
form a smooth compact surface. Properly executed, 
this sort of platform will keep out the worms for one 
season ; but a paved surface, or setting the plants on 
bricks, tiles, or boards, is preferable. 

It sometimes happens that there are not unsuitable 
places for a part of the green-house plants in walks 
and paved court-yards about the house ; and this is 
not only a fortunate circumstance for the plants, but 
adds a peculiar and luxurious charm to the dwelling. 
Even lining the sides of broad gravel walks with 
pots of the hardier sorts has a fine effect, and they 
will pass their summer there very well, and not re- 
ceive many worms from the well-rolled gravel. 

Formerly it was the practice to plunge the green- 
house plants, during summer, along the borders of 
the kitchen- garden, or in front of the shrubbery, and 



158 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



sometimes in groups by themselves in the flower- 
garden. Large orange-trees, myrtles, and free-flow- 
ering geraniums, produce a charming effect in this 
way, and may still be so treated ; but the practice 
w^ould be ruinous to the more tender plants ; and 
even geraniums, and other rapid-growing spongy 
plants, never recover, during the whole succeeding 
winter, the check of taking them out of the ground. 
In fact, when geraniums are so treated, it should be 
with a view of never returning them to the green- 
house ; but either of letting them remain till they 
are killed by frost, or of taking them up when first 
touched by cold, cutting off their tops, and preserving 
the roots in sand in a dry cellar during winter, for 
re-planting in spring. In this way some horticultu- 
rists have treated many of the hardier pelargoniums 
annually, and thus obtained a great accession of beauty 
to their borders and parterres. 

Large orange-trees, sunk in the ground, so as to 
conceal their boxes, and then the boxes and general 
surface covered with turf, have a charming appear- 
ance. Those in the flower-garden at Nuneham are 
so treated annually, and confirm our observation. 
In some other places, where the orange-trees are 
planted in the soil, the entire superstructure is re- 
moved during summer, and the ground turfed over. 
This also is charming, and occurring unexpectedly in 
a fine pleasure-ground or flower-garden, reminds the 
travelled spectator of the orange groves of Genoa 
and Naples. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



159 



On whatever sort of surface or situation the plants 
are to be placed, they must not be crowded so as to 
exclude the air, sun, and weather from their sides and 
pots ; nor must they, as before observed, be tied at 
the tops of their stems, but at a small distance above 
their pots. The same general principles of arrange- 
ment should be preserved, as in setting them on the 
green-house stage. Each genus or natural family 
ought to be kept together in all the groups, beds, or 
other masses in which the plants may be set : the 
tallest should be placed in the middle, and the slope 
to the margin or margins should be free and irregular, 
and not of that stiff shorn appearance before repro- 
bated. 

The plants being thus established in their summer 
situation, all that becomes necessary is to look over 
them once a day to see that none are blown over, or 
otherwise injured : — to observe and supply any that 
may want water : — to examine the ball and drainage 
of such as appear over-watered, and to take care that 
they be sparingly supplied for the time to come. In 
some pots worms may probably find their way ; and 
they may either be killed Avhere they are, by watering 
with lime-water, or the ball may be turned out of the 
pot, and the worm, which will generally be found 
outside of the ball, may be picked out by hand. Any 
vermin that may appear on the leaves should be picked 
off, or washed off by the syringe ; but in general the 
small birds keep down the aphides and other insects 
which attack these plants during the summer. All 



160 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



dead leaves must be picked off as they appear ; all 
weeds pulled out, and any holes or derangements, by 
watering or other causes, in the surface of the pots 
filled up with fresh earth. 

During dry weather, watering will have to be per- 
formed every day ; the best time is the evening, and 
the safest plan is first to supply all the pots accordixig 
to their wants, and then, if the weather is not more 
than usually cold, to syringe them over their tops. 

Sect. IV. Management of Green-house Plants in 
Autumn. 

The principal autumn operation is that of return- 
ing the plants to the green-house. This is generally 
done in the course of the month of September, com- 
mencing with the more tender Cape and South-sea 
plants, and ending with the more hardy species of 
the South of Europe. 

Green-house plants are never shifted at this sea- 
son, as it is not intended, or desirable, that they 
should continue growing during the autumn and 
winter months. Some plants, however, from disease, 
worms, the pot breaking, or some other accidental 
cause, may require to be fresh potted, and most of them 
will be improved by refreshing their surfaces with a 
little new mould, first removing the caked or mossy 
surface crust, and then stirring and incorporating it 
with what is below. 

Those plants which have stood above the surface. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



161 



should be gone over a week or ten days before it is 
intended to take them in, and all the roots which 
have grown through the draining-hole cut off close to 
it. Where many roots have protruded, this will give 
the plant a check, which is better received here than 
in the green-house ; because the cool surface on which 
they stand will not dry up the roots like the dry boards 
of the stage. Plants which have been plunged 
should have their pots lifted up with a twist, which 
will break any roots that may have gone through into 
the soil, and then they can be cut off smoothly with a 
knife, and the pot replaced in its hole. Sometimes 
the pot breaks in this operation, in which case the 
plant must be carefully repotted. 

The plants being thus prepared, the next thing is 
to attend to the green-house. Any repairs which 
may have been wanted will have been effected either 
immediately after the plants were removed, or in the 
course of the summer. Painting the wood-work, 
and white-washing the walls and flues, is generally 
done once in two or three years ; broken glass is im- 
mediately mended ; and the flues are swept once a 
year at least, and generally at this time. After 
cleaning them, they may be proved with a fire of 
damp straw, to ascertain if there are any cracks that 
will admit smoke. 

Things being now ready, commence by bringing 
in the more tender sorts, and placing them in their 
situations. If the weather be still mild, they may re- 
main there three or four days with the roof sashes and 

M 



162 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



front lights off or quite open. Next, if there are 
any very large pots or boxes, as of oranges, camel- 
lias, &c., they, though not the next in tenderness, 
may be taken, in order to get them placed while 
there is most room for men to move about. Then 
proceed with all the rest of the plants, excepting 
such myrtles and South of Europe or hardy sorts, 
as are to be kept a month or two in a pit, to leave 
room in the green-house for a few Chiysdnthemums 
and Georginas, The plants also, by thus being 
placed thinner when first set in, will be less likely to 
lose the leaves of the young shoots by damping oflf. 
All the plants being put in, in a day or two, or as the 
weather dictates, put on the sashes of the roof The 
front and end sashes or openings need not be shut 
for a week or two, unless in the case of very sharp 
winds ; for it seldom happens that any frost occurs in 
September or October, and often not in November, 
that will injure green-house plants protected by the 
roof from perpendicular cold and rains. 

About the beginning of November, most of the 
front sashes will be shut on nights, and probably a 
fire now and then made to dry off any damps or 
mouldiness which may appear on the pots ; but dur- 
ing the day abundance of air must be given by open- 
ings here and there in the roof, side, and ends. 

If any Georginas, Chrysanthemums, Stock July- 
flowers, or other choice hardy flowers, are to be pro- 
longed in the green-house, they will now be set in, 
if not before; and care must be taken to do this 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



163 



in a perfectly dry day, otherwise tlie damp atmosphere 
that would be created by the evaporation of their 
leaves during the first night w^ould be highly in- 
jurious. 

In making fires to dry up damps, most people 
choose the evenings : this has the effect of increasing 
the damps by increasing the evaporation, which cannot 
be carried off in the night for want of a circulation of 
air. The best way is to make the fire early in the 
morning, and, as soon as the external air admits, to 
open the sashes in different parts of the house to pro- 
mote a circulation, which will soon carry off all the 
damps. About mid-day the fire should be allowed to 
go out, and it need not be renewed in this way oftener 
than twice a week, and that only in very foggy wea- 
ther. A very good plan, and one which in effect more 
rapidly removes damps than the use of flues, is to burn 
two or three pots of charcoal or coal coke in the floor 
of the house : it is surprising how completely and soon 
this dries the air in the house, which being also de- 
prived of its oxygen, must render the atmosphere of 
the house less wholesome for the human species ; but 
this does not affect the plants, which in the mean time 
are cured of mouldiness, and the air will attain its 
equilibrium of salubrity in a very few hours afterwards. 

The plants being now arranged as they w^ere when 
originally placed in the house, all that is requisite is 
to attend to air, water, heat, and cleanliness. Air 
must be given every day when the thermometer in the 

M 2 



164 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



shade is above 32°. The thermometer in the green- 
house may, for the sake of air, fall to 45° without 
injury ; but it is better for the plants that it should 
stand mornings and evenings at 48° or nearly so. 

Water vrill be required in considerable quantities ' 
vrhen the plants are first set in, as they are then still 
in a growing state ; but the quantity must be gradually 
lessened as the days shorten and the weather becomes 
more foggy, moist, and cold. The greatest care 
must be taken not to spill any on the leaves of the 
plants, and so to adjust the quantity poured on the 
pots that as little as possible may run through them 
to wet the shelves, as these and the floor when 
wetted, greatly increase the damps by the evaporation 
which takes place from all moist surfaces, and from 
all water not frozen. 

In frosty weather, when the heat of the green-house 
depends entirely on the use of fire, it should seldom 
be raised above 43° or 45°. With the fire and sun it 
may reach 50° ; but with fire alone 42° or 43° is even 
safer than 45", which is apt to dry up the earth in the 
pots too rapidly, and to occasion frequent watering ; 
and alternate watering and drying when plants are 
not in a growing state is ruinous to them, and kills 
many whose destruction is attributed directly to the 
frost. If green-house plants are kept very dry, and 
have been well hardened after they were set in by 
the free admission of air, they will not be killed or 
greatly injured by a few hours' temperature of 35°, 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



165 



or a day or two of the temperature of 40°. We have 
known the earth in pots of Ericas, Camellias, and 
Mesembryanthemums, to be frozen for two days tO' 
gether, and yet the plants live. 

Cleanliness comprises removing mouldiness from 
the surface of the pots, by scraping it off, picking off 
all decayed or decaying leaves and flowers before 
they have time to drop, washing dirt off the leaves 
with a sponge, and burning tobacco so as to fill the 
house with its smoke, for destroying the aphides. 
The paths and shelves should be kept quite clean, 
but in doing so taking care not to cover the leaves of 
the plants with dust. 

Where bulbs are grown in a green-house, they 
must or should be planted in the course of the au- 
tumn ; and the earlier in October this operation is 
commenced, the better. There are scarcely any that 
are not best planted at this time, either of tender or 
hardy bulbs. The soils have been already mentioned : 
when planted, the pots may be set in a pit or frame 
kept well covered at nights to exclude the frost ; and 
when they begin to grow they should have heat, 
either by being brought to the green-house, or by 
having the air of the pit or hot-bed warmed by flues 
or a lining of dung. 

With some cultivators it is the practice to plant 
the rocicB and Gladioli in pots, and plunge them in 
the open garden along with the hardy bulbs in pre- 
paration for forcing. There they are covered with 
six or eight inches of old tan, and when they have 



166 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



germinated an inch or two above the surface of the 
pots, they are taken up and brought into the green- 
house. We have ah*eady mentioned this as the best 
plan vi^ith common bulbs, vrhether they are to be 
blown in pots of earth, or in glasses of water. 

Sect. V. Management of Green-house Plants 
during Winter. 

The winter quarter is characterized by no particu- 
lar feature of management, though it is the most diffi- 
cult to get over with safety. 

In November, the first month of winter, the great 
difficulty is to prevent the fogs and damps from rotting 
off the young shoots which have scarcely finished 
growing, and from denuding large succulent-leaved 
plants of their foliage ; all that can be done is to 
make fires early in the morning, every morning if 
requisite, but at least twice a week, and to open the 
sashes freely during the day. During this month 
and the early part of December, much more is to be 
dreaded from damps than from dry colds or frosts. 

Towards Christmas the weather begins to grow 
very severe ; but the atmosphere is now less charged 
with moisture than before. Less risk is now in- 
curred from damps ; but more to be dreaded from the 
alternate drying and watering of the earth in the pots. 
There is no mode of avoiding this entirely ; but there 
are several points, which, if carefully attended to, will 
lessen the evil in a considerable degree. The first 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



167 



is, not to attempt to raise the temperature of the 
house during night to above 42° ; if left at 45° in the 
evening, vrith a moderate fire at work, it will probably 
be at 40° or 38° early next morning, when the fire 
should be renewed to increase the heat a little, and 
then during the day, with the joint heat of the spent 
fire and the sun, it may be allowed to rise to 48°. 

The next thing is (where practicable) to cover as 
much as possible of the roof, side, and ends, with 
mats, which keeps up the temperature by retaining 
the heat already there, instead of generating heat. 
By the use of mats the air of the house is not nearly 
so much dried as by fire heat, and consequently much 
less water is wanted. 

The water used in the green-house during the 
winter and spring months, should either have stood 
in it for twenty or twenty-four hours, or be placed for 
an hour or two over the furnace or on the flues, so as 
to attain a temperature of 48°. This is a little higher 
than the temperature of the air of the house, because 
the earth of the pots will generally be found a little 
warmer than the air which surrounds them ; and it 
would be as injurious to cool it down to the air of 
the house, as it would be to cool the earth round the 
roots of plants in the open air down to that of the 
frozen atmosphere with which their tops are sur- 
rounded. 

Air must be given with discretion ; but still if 
possible once every day, during what sunshine or 
clear moments may occur from eleven to three o'clock. 



168 



THE GREEN-HOUSE, 



Care must be taken that it does not enter in currents ; 
for a strong current of cold air directed against any 
one plant, or group of plants, will as effectually pro- 
duce destruction as if their roots were to be frozen in 
the pot . some, to guard against this, place a mat or 
netting before the openings during high or frosty 
winds. 

All decayed leaves, mouldiness, and everything 
contrary to the most fastidious cleanliness, should be 
removed as soon as they appear ; and when unfortu- 
nately any plant dies, it should be taken out to the 
refuse heap, and its place divided among those ad- 
joining : it will be to them an advantage, by giving 
them more air and light ; — affording in this respect 
a parallel to the effects of the same event among our 
own kind. 

The Chrysanthemums and other plants taken in to 
flower in October, will mostly be over by the end of 
December; they may therefore now be taken out : 
the Georginas set in a dry shed or cellar from which 
the frost is excluded; the Chrysanthemums set in 
cold frames or in any warm sheltered spot ; and the 
Stocks, or other annuals or biennials that have flowered 
and are done with, thrown on the compost dunghill. 
In the room of these may be introduced the hardier 
plants, kept out in pits and frames, and some or all of 
the bulbs. The pots should be nicely cleaned ; and 
in order to produce a tasteful arrangement of the 
stage, it will at this time be desirable to reset the 
whole. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



169 



Some of the bulbs and some pots of mignionette 
should be placed at that end or part of the house 
where the flue enters, in order to receive a little more 
heat than the average temperature of the house. This 
will probably bring the bulbs into blossom soon after 
Christmas ; especially some of the Crocuses, Aconites, 
blue Hyacinths, and Van Thol Tulips. In that 
situation the mignionette will flower freely, and fill 
the air of the house with its grateful odour. 

Sect. VI. Management of Green-house Plants 
in Spring, 

About the middle of February many of the green- 
house plants will be observed to be beginning to grow. 
Insects also at this time make their appearance, and 
some tender species that had stood the shock of win- 
ter now die off in a manner not easily accounted for. 

Many plants also begin to show their blossom buds 
at this season ; and as the days lengthen apace, and 
more light is supplied by nature, more heat and water 
may be added by man to encourage vegetation, and 
render the villa green-house not merely a protection 
for plants during winter like that of the nursery-man, 
but a place for enjoying plants when they are not to 
enjoyed in the open garden. 

To the usual routine operations of the green-house, 
the spring season adds those of destroying insects, 
and propagating plants by seeds or cuttings or other 
means. 

The heat of the house in February may be raised 



170 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



to 48° or 50° during sunshine to encourage growth 
and blossoms ; but need not be higher than 44° in 
the evening, or 40° the following morning. Many 
maintain a lower temperature; but our object in the 
villa green-house is to cause the plants to look well 
at this season. 

The supplies of water may be increased, especially 
to plants in a growing or flowering state, and to such 
as are in the warmest part of the house. The bulbs 
will require it liberally till they come into full flower, 
when it may be withdrawn by degrees, and as their 
foliage begins to grow yellow and decay, it may be 
gradually left ofl". 

Air should be given in the middle of every day if 
possible during February, and in mild weather in 
March and April during the time the sun is above 
the horizon, but not later. With May the practice of 
leaving the front-sashes and doors open all night 
may commence, but must be conducted with caution. 

Subsect. 1. Insects and Diseases to which Green- 
house Plants are liable. 

The principal insects which infest green-house 
plants are the aphis or green fly, the coccus, and the 
acarus or red spider ; other insects, as flies, wasps, 
caterpillars, earwigs, beetles, &c. do but little harm, 
or are easily taken, or scared. Snails and worms, 
when they find their way into the house, are more 
injurious. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



171 



The aphis or green fly is destroyed with ease and 
certainty by fumigation with tobacco. For this pur- 
pose there is a sort of refuse tobacco sold in the shops, 
and an appropriate bellows, with a receptacle in its 
nozzle for the tobacco; by which means the smoke is 
blown out at the end of the nozzle, through a dispenser 
or rose like that of a watering-pot. The mode com- 
monly adopted by gardeners, however, and one fully 
as effectual, and attended with less waste of tobacco 
and trouble, is as follows : — 

Either grow a few plants of tobacco on purpose 
for fumigation, or procure a quantity of the cheapest 
tobacco, which last will be found the strongest and 
best for the purpose of fumigation. Then taking 
what may be considered a sufficient quantity to fill 
the air of the house with smoke, open it out into 
leaves or fragments, and sprinkle it with water to 
prevent its burning too quick : next provide a mid- 
dling-sized flower-pot, in the side of which near the 
bottom a hole must be pierced with a cold chisel and 
hammer ; put a few lighted coals into the pot, and 
strew a little of the moistened tobacco over them ; 
then by blowing with a pair of common bellows at 
the hole in the side, smoke sufficient to fill the air of 
the house may be procured in the space of ten or fif- 
teen minutes. The calmest weather must be chosen 
for this work, otherwise there will be a waste of 
smoke ; and it must be repeated two or more evenings 
in succession, if the insects are in great vigour. 

The coccus is never very numerous in a green- 



172 



THE GREEN-HOUSE, 



house. Washes of soap-suds and of soft soap and 
sulphui' have been recommended for destroying it ; 
but things must have been in a very neglected state 
when it becomes too numerous to be picked off by 
hand, or brushed off with a brush and a little warm 
water. From the under sides of the leaves of the 
orange tribe and other plants, it may also be washed 
off with a sponge. 

The acarus, or red spider, is the most pernicious 
of all the insects which infest plants ; but happily 
there is a specific antidote for this enemy, as certain 
in its effects as sulphur is in curing the itch, the ulcers 
of which in the human body are infested by another 
species of acarus. This is the application of water 
to the leaves of plants infested by this insect. In 
common cases water may be applied liberally from 
the rose of the watering-pot, or from the watering- 
engine or syringe ; and in cases where this mode 
might over-water the roots, water must be applied in 
the form of steam, by watering the flues after they 
have been heated by a brisk fire, or by raising the 
temperature of the house in a cloudy day, or in any 
afternoon or evening, to 50° or 60°, and then water- 
ing all the paths and floor where it will not injure 
the plants. Other modes might be mentioned for 
generating steam for the destruction of these insects ; 
but they are never so prevalent in a green-house as 
they are in hot-houses, and other forcing-houses, and 
even in cucumber and melon frames, and therefore 
the less care is requisite to destroy them. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



173 



A mode may be mentioned for destroying these 
insects without the use of water, which, though 
chiefly applicable to plant-houses kept at a higher 
temperature than the green-house, may sometimes be 
used there, especially as it kills the aphides. It is to 
wash the flues with flower of brimstone mixed with 
a little white wash. This is practised by that curious 
cultivator of plants, Mr. Curator Anderson of the 
Chelsea Botanic Gardens ; and it is said that half a 
pound of brimstone will kill all the spiders and all 
other vermin of the insect kind in a house one hun- 
dred feet long and of ordinary breadth. 

Raising the temperature of the house, and water- 
ing the paths with volatile alkali, has been tried on 
a small scale, and is said to produce the same effect ; 
but this is rather an expensive process. Water, 
therefore, and chiefly applied by the syringe, may be 
considered as the best cure for the red spider. 

A precautionary measure against this and other 
insects may be mentioned : it is to wash once a year, 
at the season when the plants are returned to the 
house, all the joints and crevices of the wood-work, 
walls, shelves, stage, and all crevices whatever, with 
a mixture composed of soft soap and sulphur. This 
is said to destroy the eggs which may be deposited 
in these places. We question very much if it will ; 
but if it does not, there can be no great expense or 
loss of time in using it. A wash of quick-lime and 
water Ave should think likely to do as well ; but in 
truth we do not think that in a green-house properly 



174 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



constructed and judiciously managed, either can ever 
become necessary. 

Flies and wasps are chiefly injurious in the green- 
house during summer, when the plants are out of 
doors, and when the peaches, figs, and grapes are be- 
ginning to ripen. To attract the flies from peaches, 
place phials or bottles of water with the mouths 
honeyed near them. Wasps at this season are not 
troublesome ; but when the grapes and late crop of 
figs are ripening, then the large blue fly and wasps 
abound. There are only two eflectual ways of pre- 
serving the fruit from their attacks : the first and 
best is to have all the openings of the green-house 
covered with a fine netting, the meshes of which are 
not larger than one -quarter of an inch. This will 
effectually exclude them, as no large fly or wasp can 
enter a space of that dimension with its wings ex^ 
tended. The second mode is to secure the bunches 
of grapes singly, by covering them with bags of 
gauze or of silver paper, — a bad plan if it can be 
avoided, as it lessens the flavour of the fruit. Figs 
may be covered individually in the same manner, and 
they take less injury from the process. 

Earwigs and beetles are readily caught by the 
common beetle-trap, or by placing a glass funnel over 
a pot or vessel of any sort with crumbs of bread be- 
low. The beetle is less injurious where there are 
fruits than the earwig, which attacks the peach and 
fig, and is in the case of wall trees commonly caught 
in hollow cylinders, as reeds, or bean stalks, or the 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



175 



decayed flower-stems of many of the UmhelUferce. 
In these they enter for repose, and are easily shaken 
out and destroyed. The ant is sometimes a very 
troublesome insect in the green-house, and not very 
readily subdued. Where their nests cannot be dug 
out, or the inhabitants scalded or drowned by water, 
hot or cold, we know of no mode better than wetting 
the inside of a flower-pot with honey and milk, or 
sugar and milk, and whitening it, covering the hole 
at top with a sherd or tile. A number of the in- 
sects will be attracted by the odour of the honey, 
and enter to collect it and settle there, when the pot 
may be lifted and dipped in a pail of hot water for a 
moment, and then fresh anointed and replaced. Fly- 
powder has also been tried for destroying ants in 
hot-houses, and with considerable success : it does 
not require to be moistened, but merely a few saucers 
of it placed here and there near their haunts. In the 
West Indies, ants are poisoned with arsenic and 
sugar ; when one dies it is eaten by the others, who 
die in their turn, and are eaten ; and thus a small 
dose may destroy a large nest. 

Snails sometimes find their way into the green- 
house, and do a good deal of mischief before it is 
well known to what or to whom to attribute it. Their 
time of committing their devastations is during nighty 
and when day returns they bury themselves in the 
soil, or settle on the dark side of pots. They eat 
the leaves of most plants, and of some much more 
than others. They are, however, easily eradicated, 



176 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



either in the green-house or the open air, with a 
little care. Either hand-pick them early in the 
morning, when it is hardly light ; or strew over the 
floor of the green-house, and on the shelves of the 
stage, leaves of any of the cabbage tribe just begin- 
ning to decay. The snails will hardly fail to prefer 
the under sides of these leaves both for feeding on 
and as places of repose, as they can find both these 
at the same time, and they can be picked off every 
morning and the leaves replaced : or, to preserve a 
sightly appearance, remove the leaves during the day, 
and replace them at nights. In this way the market 
gardeners collect immense quantities of snails in the 
open air, and some nurserymen in their pits of half- 
hardy plants. Any decaying vegetable matter will 
do ; but it is best in a state of incipient decay as 
being then sweeter : nothing answers better than 
pea-haulm. 

The common earth-worm, when it infests plants 
in pots, may be picked out by turning out the ball ; 
but it may also be destroyed in the pot by watering 
with any bitter, acrid, or acid infusion, or solution, as 
of water of walnut leaves or tobacco, or salt-water, 
lime-water, or vinegar. Lime-water is the best, both 
as being the cheapest, and least injurious to the roots 
of the plants. Salt is equally effectual, but it destroys 
vegetation : it is excellent for watering garden walks, 
as it destroys not only vermin but moss and weeds — 
the two latter often very troublesome in gravel. 

The common spider is sometimes abundant in 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



177 



green-houses carelessly managed. Common spiders 
are chiefly injurious to plants by soiling them with 
their webs, as their nests, unlike those of the red 
spider, are not made on the leaves, but in the angles 
of the walls, and wood- work of the house. They 
are useful in catching flies to a certain extent, but 
form a remedy much more offensive than the disease. 
They are effectually subdued by the free use of water 
from the syringe or engine. 

There are few diseases to which green-house plants 
are subject as such. The principal is the mildew; 
and occasionally the honeydew, rust, and consump- 
tion make their appearance. 

The mildew appears in the form of a mealy pow- 
der (supposed to be a small fungus) on the tops of 
the shoots of heaths, geraniums, and some other 
plants. A specific in general use is flower of sul- 
phur thus applied : — Get a vessel sufliciently large to 
immerse the plants infected, one at a time, and fill it 
with clear water. Then provide a pound or more of 
sulphur, according to the number and size of the 
plants, and have ready an old powder-puff or a large 
dusting-brush. Then take up the plant and hold it 
in an inverted position, with the hand placed on the 
surface of the pot, so as to prevent the mould or ball 
from falling out : in this manner' plunge the plant 
into the water ; and while it is wet, holding it in the 
same position, let an assistant dust on the sulphur 
with the puff or brush in such a manner that every 
part of the plant, including both sides of the leaves, 

N 



178 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



may be perfectly covered. Then return tlie plants 
to an airy dry part of the house, the less conspicuous 
the better; one dressing in this way will prove a 
complete remedy. 

The honeydew is a sweet clammy substance, 
which coagulates on the leaves of plants, chiefly dur- 
ing summer, but on some green-house plants, as the 
Mdsa semperfldrens, Myrtle, and Orange, during 
winter and spring. Some regard it as the dung of 
aphides, and it is certainly often found on the rose 
along with these insects ; but it is also found on the 
orange alone, and which the aphides seldom inhabit ; 
and thus it appears to be an exudation in some cases : 
whatever may be its nature, it appears to be more 
offensive to the eye than injurious to the plant. We 
know of no mode of preventing it : washing it oif 
with a sponge and water from time to time is a pal- 
liative unattended with injury to the plant. 

The blight is a term in common use, and is applied 
both to animals and plants when they have received 
any disease or injury not otherwise to be accounted 
for. It is supposed to be produced by east winds, 
extreme heats, thunder and lightning, &c. As far 
as the disease has been examined, it seems to be a 
minute fungus growing on the plant, and of course 
nourished by its destruction. Salt water has been 
found to destroy it in some cases, but rarely till the 
injury was already so great that the diseased plant 
could not recover In gardens the same process as 
for the mildew has been tried with success, and this 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



179 



is all that we can recommend. Fortunately it is not ^ 
very common in green-houses. 

Various insects and diseases attack the peach tree, 
as a black fly, the thrips, a very small insect like the 
aphis, the acarus, a caterpillar, the curl, mildevr, 
blight, and honeydew. The aphis and thrips, and 
also the black fly, or any other of the fly kind, will be 
effectually destroyed by tobacco smoke — the acarus, 
by abundant watering over the leaves : the caterpillars 
are few, and to be picked olF : the curl is occasioned 
by minute insects, their kind is not correctly ascer- 
tained, but it is prevented from increasing, by the 
use of sulphur and watering, as are the blight and 
honeydew. Some use the precaution of washing the 
shoots of peach trees and vines with soft soap and 
sulphur after they are pruned, — a precaution highly 
necessary. 

The vine is attacked by the red spider, for which 
the remedy is obvious ; the coccus sometimes appears 
on the shoots ; and these are to be brushed off : but 
rarely any other insect appears of an injurious nature. 

The bleeding of the vine may be treated as a dis- 
ease ; our opinion is, that it does very little harm, and 
that it may be left to take its course. 

What is called consumption in plants, is a disease 
which gradually and sometimes quickly induces the 
decline and decay of the plant till at last it dies. The 
causes which produce it can seldom be correctly ascer- 
tained ; sometimes it appears to proceed from improper 
soil, climate, or culture ; at other times it comes on 

N2 



180 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



under the most favourable circumstances, as far as 
appearance goes. Whatever may be its nature, there 
is no remedy ; and all that the gardener can do, if he 
discovers it before it be too late, is to take off a few 
cuttings, or adopt the means peculiar to the plant for 
procuring a successor. 

Subsect. 2. p7'opagation of Green-house Plants 
hy Seeds. 

The beginning of February is considered the best 
season for sowing the seeds of most green-house 
plants, because this affords them all the summer season 
to acquire a size for potting off towards autumn, and 
being hardened a little before winter. Heaths how- 
ever are an exception ; for though they will vegetate 
very well at this season, yet if they can be sown the 
preceding September after they are just ripened and 
gathered, they will acquire sufficient strength to stand 
through the winter, and be fit for potting off with 
other seeds sown in February. But if heath seeds 
are sown in spring, they should be sown very thin, 
so that the plants may be able to stand in the seed 
pots all the succeeding winter without damping off ; 
for sown in the usual way in spring, they are not fit 
for potting off till it is too late in autumn to attempt 
it, and consequently they are left in a crow^ded state 
in their seed pots during winter, when they almost 
inevitably damp off for want of air round the plants. 
Sown in autumn, they are fit to be potted off in the 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



181 



July or August following, and hardened in frames 
before the season arrives of setting them in the green- 
house. 

Seeds are sown in the same sorts of soil wdiich the 
parent plants thrive best in : hence, where there is a 
variety of seeds to be so^vn, a variety of soils must be 
prepared. Loam, peat, and sand, however, are the 
simples which will supply all requisite composts. 
The size of the pots may be from four to eight inches 
across, as it is not desirable to sow seeds in very small 
pots on account of the rapid drying of the soil. These 
pots should be well drained by first placing a crock or 
sherd, or oyster-shell with the concave side under- 
most, on the hole, then covering it with an inch or 
more of gravel or of broken sherds, and over that 
laying some peat siftings or fibrous vegetable matter 
obtained in sifting soils, to prevent the soil from 
Avashing down and mixing with the drainage, and so 
rendering the latter inefficient. On this bottoming, 
as it is technically called, place the mould proper for 
the seeds to be sown : press it down gently, so as it 
may stand at half an inch under the rim of the pot. 
Then lay on a quarter of an inch of the same mould 
sifted extra fine on purpose, and spread it quite level. 
On this sow the seeds as evenly as possible, and cover 
with an eighth or a quarter of an inch according to 
the size of the seeds. Then press this covering 
gently and evenly down on the seeds with the hand, 
leaving the surface quite smooth and level, and the 
operation is finished. 



182 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



If the seeds are large, such as nuts or stones, then 
the pots must not be filled so full by half an inch or 
an inch, and the nut or stone when planted must be 
pressed into the soil, and the soil over it pressed 
well down on it, so as it may be compactly inclosed 
in earth. 

There is not an operation among all the processes 
of culture more essential to growth, than that of 
pressing the soil to roots, seeds or cuttings, newly 
inserted in it. Even the common cabbage will not 
grow if this point be neglected. This the sagacious 
Cobbett adverts to in a strong manner in his book on 
American Horticulture, justly observing, that it is not 
sufficient in dibbling-in cabbages to make them firm, 
but they must be made firm at the extreme point of the 
root. Tlie same thing may be said of all descriptions of 
cuttings, which, whether of heaths or of vines or goose- 
berries, must be made quite firm at their lower extre - 
mities. W e have seen many crops, both of the field 
and the garden, fail for want of pressure on the seeds ; 
and the late Mr. Gushing, who was one of our best 
exotic gardeners in his day, observes of seeds in pots, 
that he has ' witnessed in many of the nurseries, as 
well as gardens, seeds sown, and left not only with- 
out being pressed in, but almost uncovered ; the evil 
tendency of which in places that should set the ex- 
ample, at least in sowing of seeds, must be evident 
to the commonest observer.' {Exotic Gardener, p. 5.) 

If the parcels of seeds are small, two or three may 
be sown in distinct patches in the same pot. These 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



183 



patches may either be in the form of bars or slips 
across the pot, each being distinguished by its name 
written on a small naming-stick ; or they may be in 
the form of triangles with their apexes pointing to the 
centre of the pot ; and round this centre may be placed 
the different naming-sticks, each pointing to its tri- 
angle, like little tombstones to their graves. A cross 
section of an orange will convey a tolerable idea of the 
appearance of the surface of such a pot : the line 
round each clove represents the triangles ; and the 
centre where they all originate the point where the 
naming- sticks are placed. 

The sowing being finished, the pots must be gently 
watered with the finest dispenser that can be made. 
Repeat this at intervals of a few minutes till the 
mould becomes sufficiently moist for vegetation ; then 
set the pots in a dry airy part of the green-house 
where they will not obtrude themselves on the eye 
and interfere with the general effect : or, if there be 
no room in the green-house, set them on a hot-bed 
already spent, but where, by the aid of what heat re- 
mains in the dung, covering well at night, and the 
sun during day, they may enjoy about the same tem- 
perature which they would have done in the green- 
house. The very choice sorts, and most of the heaths, 
should be covered with glasses fitted to the inside of 
the rim of the pot: and these should be kept on, 
excepting while water is given, till the seeds begin 
to come up, when they may be taken off part of the 
day, and in a few weeks entirely. All the culture 



184 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



these seeds will require till they come up, will be 
gentle watering, so as always to keep the surface of 
the soil moist, and weeding. The weeds should be 
pulled when in their seed leaf, otherwise they are apt 
to bring up the seeds wdth their roots, and thus, if 
they are beginning to germinate, destroy them. 

As the weather becomes warm, and the sun shines 
bright, the pots will require to be shaded for an hour 
or two in the middle of every day. This may either 
be done by a mat if they are in a frame, or by sheets 
of gray paper if they are in the green-house. When 
the plants begin to come up, this shading must be in- 
creased. In two months most of the seeds, excepting 
stones and nuts, will have vegetated; some of these 
require to stand a year before they come up, and they 
must be kept during this period in the same tempera- 
ture as green-house plants. 

Watering, weeding, and shading having been at- 
tended to till the middle of June, all those pots whose 
seeds have come up may be removed to the open air, 
and placed in the shade of a hedge or high wall, or of 
wicker hurdles. Here being kept moist and weeded, 
and worms, slugs, and other vermin kept from an- 
noying them, they will be found fit to pot off by the 
middle or end of July. 

It is very desirable to begin to pot off as early as 
possible ; because while the plants are young and 
small, their roots have not had time to mat together as 
they do afterwards, and they therefore not only re- 
ceive less injury by the operation, but the early period 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



185 



at which this is done gives them a longer season to 
establish themselves before being stopped in their 
growth by winter. 

In potting, be careful to match the pot to the size 
of the plant, and its rapid or slow growth. The 
Geranium tribe will require the largest pots ; but 
these need not exceed the size called sixties, or half- 
penny pots, and which are only about two inches in 
diameter; Heaths, Diosmas, and many such small 
plants, are better potted into thimble pots which are 
under an inch and a half in diameter. In potting, 
let the mould be quite dry, and gently press it to the 
roots wdth the fingers ; then water with the dispenser 
once or twice till the earth is well settled ; after this 
set the pots on a cool frame or a pavement, or on a 
bed of ashes, or other bottom impervious to worms. 
Keep the lights close on night and day for a few days, 
opening only to water, and shade during all the time 
the sun shines brightly on the frame. In a fortnight 
begin to harden them by degrees, first taking off the 
lights at night, and shutting them and keeping them 
shaded during the day; next taking them off the 
greater part of the day, and lastly entirely; only re- 
placing them during very heavy rains and storms. 

Tlius treated, some of them, as the Geraniums, 
may be set along with the green-house plants in Au- 
gust, and others allowed to remain in the frames till 
they are removed to the green-house Avith the main 
stock in September. 

The pots of seeds which have not germinated must 



186 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



be kept during the winter either in a concealed part 
of the green-house or in a frame or pit of similar 
temperature, and, when spring comes, treated in all 
respects like the seeds which vegetate the same season 
in which they are sown. 

It may be observed here, that it is a safe plan with 
new seeds from the Cape, Australasia, or South 
America, to place them when sown on a heat rather 
higher than that of the green-house ; for though the 
plants of these and other latitudes when grown will 
thrive very well in our green-houses, yet the seeds 
require a greater degree of heat than is kept in such 
structures, to excite them to vegetate. 

Subsect. 3. Propagation of Green-house Plants hy 
Cuttings. 

Cuttings in general should be put in at as early a 
period of the season as possible, for the same reasons 
as are given for the early sowing of seeds, viz. that 
the plants may be rooted, transplanted, and hardened 
before winter. 

Cuttings of most kinds of green-house plants are 
best put in in spring ; though some prefer the autumn 
for coriaceous evergreen-leaved plants, as the Ca- 
mellia and Orange. In the latter case the cuttings 
remain in a nearly dormant state during October, No- 
vember, and December, and are then supposed to 
have formed a callosity at their lower ends, ready to 
emit roots when they are put into bottom heat in 
J anuary. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



187 



Most plants succeed best when the cuttings are 
taken off in young succulent shoots ; and hence it is 
necessary that the plant to be propagated be in a 
growing state. For this purpose, it is the practice 
with nurserymen and others who propagate exten- 
sively, to place specimens of the plants considered 
more rare or difficult to root in the stove early in 
January, that they may protrude shoots ready to be 
taken off in February. With the more common 
kinds, or any not much in demand or readily struck, 
they wait till they are sufficiently grown with the 
usual temperature of the green-house. As the villa 
winter-garden will generally be kept at a higher tem- 
perature than the green-houses of nurserymen, where 
the object is to preserve the plants, more than to pro- 
duce an effect ; and as it is only now and then that a 
few cuttings can be wanted for keeping up the stock, 
abundance of young wood will be found without re- 
course to forcing. 

Though most plants strike readily in young wood, 
and with leaves on the upper part of the cutting, yet 
there are some which root very well in old wood, or 
wood of one or two years' growth, as the orange, the 
leaves being retained; and others of the deciduous 
kind which root freely in wood^ one, two, or three 
years old, without any leaves. This however applies 
only to the deciduous sorts, as Fuchsia, Aloy^sia, &c. 
Some plants root most readily when the cutting is just 
beginning to ripen its wood, and others when the 
wood is ripened. No general rules are in this respect 



188 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



universally applicable, and therefore the unexpe- 
rienced cultivator may consult our catalogue, in which 
the most successful modes are noticed ; and with quite 
new plants, of which there may be said to be no 
experience extant, he must exercise his own saga- 
city, and find out what is best, by observation and 
experience. 

For most plants that are propagated by cuttings, 
the same soil and climate in which the parent plant 
thrives are allotted ; but some which are very difficult 
to root are struck in pure sand ; and as to climate, 
most species strike the readier in one somewhat more 
moist and warm than that which the parent plant in- 
habits. Almost all cuttings strike the better for being 
covered with a bell-glass, which, by stagnating a 
portion of air round the cutting, renders all aerial 
changes less felt ; maintains a congenial moisture in 
the air, which though generally injurious to animals 
is yet highly favourable to vegetables ; lessens the 
stimulus of light ; and tends, being in the shade, to 
maintain an equable temperature. 

The operation of taking off, preparing, and plant- 
ing cuttings, cannot be commenced, carried on, and 
completed in a day or two, like that of shifting or 
potting plants. All sorts do not come into a fit state 
for having cuttings taken off at the same time : some 
will be ready earlier, and some later. Whenever a 
plant appears to be in a proper condition for the pur- 
pose, it should be proceeded with, and the others left 
till they are ready. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



189 



Pots, soils, sherds, gravel, and siftings of peat or 
other mould, are required to be at hand for the 
operation of planting cuttings, as for planting seeds. 
Having fixed on the kind or kinds to be propagated, 
first consider whether they will root best in loam, 
peat, or sand. Drain the pots as for sowing seeds, 
and fill them brimfull with the proper compost, 
shaking the pot and pressing down the compost with 
the hand : then having taken off the points of the 
shoots of an inch or more in length according to the 
kinds, proceed to cut off their lower leaves with a 
sharp penknife to half the length of the cutting, and 
sometimes more ; and lastly, cut it clean across at a 
joint or bud, placing it on the nail, or on a thumb- 
piece for that purpose, as is done in cutting the nib 
of a pen. 

When the cuttings are to be planted in peat or 
sand, the pots being filled will have to be previously 
well watered, so as to render the whole of the soil 
moist, otherwise it cannot be sufiiciently tightened to 
the base of the cutting ; a point, as we have observed 
more than once, of the most essential consequence. 
Loam will generally be found sufficiently moist for 
that purpose without watering. Not more than one 
species should be put in a pot, on account of the very 
different periods different plants take to root. In the 
case of very scarce or delicate sorts, it is common to 
put only one cutting in the centre of a small pot, 
which renders them less liable to be injured by damp, 
and early transplantation is not wanted. 



190 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



In planting, use a small dibble to make a hole for 
the cutting, and press the earth or sand tightly to its 
lower end. In general they should not be inserted 
so thick as that the leaves will touch each other, and 
sufficiently distant from the edges of the pot to admit 
of their being covered with a bell-glass. As soon as 
each pot is planted, and the surface of the mould 
made level and firm, give them a gentle watering to 
settle them : leave them to soak for a quarter of an 
hour, and then cover them with a bell-glass, which 
should be pressed sufficiently tight to exclude the 
outward air. The pots should now be plunged in a 
gentle hot-bed, or placed in a shady part of the pit of 
a hot-house. 

Being plunged in a pit or hot-bed, the culture for 
some weeks consists solely in taking off the glasses 
every morning, and wiping their insides perfectly dry 
with a cloth, and replacing them ; removing at the 
same time any cuttings or leaves which happen to 
damp off. When the sun shines unclouded, they 
must be shaded for a few hours daily, moderately, by 
a mat if in a hot-bed, or by sheets of paper if in a 
hot-house pit ; but care must be taken not to leave 
on the shade too late in the afternoon, as the soft 
tender state of the cuttings renders them very liable 
to damp off by overshading. 

In ten days or a fortnight the free-rooting kinds, 
as the GeraniacecB, will be indicating a state of in- 
cipient growth. When this is noticed, it will be ne- 
cessary to give them a little air by taking the glasses 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



191 



off every morning when the sun is quite receded from 
them, and putting them on again early in the follow- 
ing morning. By this means they will in the course 
of a few weeks become so hardened, as to be able to 
bear the full power of the sun without the glass ; 
when the shading and glasses may be laid entirely 
aside. If any of them should droop their heads when 
this operation is first performed, it is proper to refrain 
from moving the glasses until they have gained more 
strength. The shading is also to be decreased by 
degrees, but not so much as to be entirely done away 
while the glasses are in use. 

The operation of planting cuttings, and their routine 
culture in this way, may go on from the beginning 
of February to the beginning of July ; after which 
only the most hardy and easily-rooted sorts should be 
attempted, on account of the little chance of getting 
them potted and hardened before winter. Geraniums, 
however, may be propagated by cuttings till Septem- 
ber, by placing only one cutting in a small pot, and 
then plunging the pot in heat: the cutting in this 
way becomes a neat little plant in the course of a 
month, and will stand the winter in the same pot. 

The most difficult green-house plants to strike 
are heaths, the particular mode of operating with 
which we have already given. These and almost 
all the woody shrub-like plants, as the Protedcece, 
MyrtedcecB, Diosmdcece, &c., propagate most readily 
during the months of May and June, when the wood 
is in a growing state. Any one may convince him- 



192 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



self of this fact, by putting in a few cuttings of the 
growing wood of a common myrtle in May, and again 
a few of the ripened young wood of the same myrtle 
in August. The former will root almost immediately, 
and make neat little plants before winter ; whereas 
the latter will only form callosities on their lower 
ends, and must be kept in the pot till spring, when 
they will throw out roots from these callosities and 
begin growing. 

In the beginning of May, some of the cuttings put 
in in February will be fit to pot off. This must be 
done with the same care as in potting off seedlings. 
After being watered, they should be set in a close 
frame, with a little heat, or, if there are only a few of 
them, under a hand-glass in the green-house. The 
frame or hand-glass should be kept close over them 
for a day or two, till they show signs of having rooted 
into the soil : then they may have air daily, beginning 
by a sparing admission, and shading during bright 
sunshine. As the plants appear to be hardened, in- 
crease the air till the sashes or hand-glasses are taken 
off altogether. After this, watering, weeding, pick- 
ing off dead leaves, attending to the neatness of 
the surface of the pots, and to the exclusion of ver- 
min, are all that is necessary. The plants may 
either be set among the others on the prepared plat- 
forms, or, what is better, by themselves under the 
shade of a wall or hedge. Some of the Geranidcece 
will produce fine strong flowers in August, and most 
likely ripen a few seeds. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



193 



Some of the latest-planted cuttings, as tliose of 
many of the Proteas, Bdnksias, and other hard- 
wooded Australasian plants, as well as Camellias, 
will not be fit to put off the same season. These 
may have their glasses taken off (as leathery-leaved 
plants require them much less than those with tender 
foliage), and be set in an airy, rather shady part of 
the green-house, not exposed to view so as to injure 
the general effect. In the succeeding February they 
may be placed on a little heat, when they will push 
freely. In the nurseries, cuttings of Camellias and 
of the Citrus tribe are generally not taken off till the 
shoots have finished their growth, the leaves attained 
their full size, and the bark at the lower end of the 
shoot begun to get brown. They are then planted 
in broad pots of loam, and kept without being covered 
with glasses in an airy part of the green-house all 
winter, and in February put on heat. When grow- 
ing shoots are used, they are planted in sand covered 
with a bell, and immediately put on heat : in this 
way a number of them strike root ; but if young shoots 
are planted in loam, whether put in heat or not, and 
whether with or without a bell-glass, they generally 
damp off. But on the Camellia and Citrus we have 
already treated. 

Subsect. 4. Propagation of Green-house Plants hy 
haying, Inarching, Budding, and Grafting, 

A few green-house plants are propagated by laying ; 
and this mode also is sometimes adopted for such as 

o 



194 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



strike freely enough by cuttings to get larger plants 
sooner, or for the sake of running less risk of 
failure, where there are few parent plants, and per- 
haps little skill in the operator. Inarching, budding, 
and grafting, are practised with a few species, and 
very commonly with the fine varieties of Orange and 
Camellia. Some of the Myrteacece and ProteacecB 
are also so multiplied. On the continent most of the 
green-house plants which are difficult to root are 
propagated by layers, and by the Chinese mode of 
ringing, and inclosing the ringed part of the stem in 
earth. In China they knew no other mode than lay- 
ing, before grafting was introduced by Europeans. 
It is remarkable that the Otaheitans, who know 
neither grafting nor laying, are yet acquainted with 
the mode of propagating by leaves ; a mode which we 
shall notice more particularly at the end of this sec- 
tion, and which is also a natural mode like laying. 

Laying is a very natural mode of propagating plants 
of the woody kind, as we see the dependent branches 
of several species of trees resting on the soil and 
rooting into it. It is seldom that trees have sufficient 
room, and are so far left to themselves as to have 
branches depending on the ground ; but where the 
lime, holly, hazel, thorn, sycamore, &c., have attained 
a great age in some old woods, rooted branches may 
be found round their trunks. There is a fine example 
of the lime tree rooting in this way at Knowle in 
Kent, and we have seen elsewhere even the spruce 
fir and cedar larch so rooted. 



f 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 195 

The improvement wbicli man lias made on the 
natural mode of layering, is to bury the shoot deeper 
in the soil, by which means the stimuli of moisture, 
the very considerable one of pressure, and the ne- 
cessary condition of the exclusion of air, are increased. 
Another improvement is that of wounding that part 
of the shoot which is buried, by which the tendency 
to put out roots is greatly increased, partly by the 
quantity of nourishment derived from the stock or 
parent being diminished, and partly from the return- 
ing sap being impeded and stagnated in the layer, at 
the lower end of which it first produces a callus, and 
then roots. 

There are different ways of wounding the shoot 
to be layed : a very common mode is giving it such 
a twist as shall fracture longitudinally both the bark 
and wood; another mode is by thrusting a knife 
through the shoot, withdrawing it, and then inserting 
a bit of wood, slate, stone, or a nail, in its stead : 
some twist a wire tightly round the part from which 
the roots are to protrude ; others pierce it with an awl 
in two or three places ; the most common mode is to 
make an incision half way through the shoot, and 
return it longitudinally upwards or towards its extre- 
mity, so as to separate about half an inch of half of the 
shoot ; this half inch is technically called the tongue, 
and the process tonguing. About one-third of this 
separated part or scalp (being what is generally 
fractured by the operation) should be cut off in a 
transverse direction, and directly across a bud or 

O 2 



196 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



joint, as in cutting the ends of cuttings. This is an 
essential part of the operation, neglected by many 
gardeners who have never considered the mode in 
which cuttings throw out roots. The last mode of 
wounding or preparing a layer which we shall men- 
tion, is that of taking off a ring of bark half an inch 
or more in width, below the part where it is intended 
the roots should originate. This ring should always 
be made right across a bud, removing one-half of it ; 
its use is to impede the returning sap, which it does 
effectually, and young roots soon protrude from the 
callosity formed on the upper edge of the bark. 

Whatever mode be adopted, three things are es- 
sential : first, to bury the shoot at that part where it 
has undergone the process intended to promote the 
protrusion of roots, an inch or two in the soil ; se- 
condly, to bind up the point of the shoot, so as it come 
out of the earth in as near a perpendicular attitude as 
possible ; and thirdly to press the earth very firmly 
to the part intended to root. A further precaution is 
to peg down the layer with a hooked stick, to prevent 
it from rising or being disturbed ; but with green- 
house plants this is seldom necessary, more especially 
if the soil is loamy and firmly pressed to the layer. 
Any person may prove the value of pressure, by lay- 
ing two shoots of the same species in similar soil, 
and at a similar depth, pressing neither, but well 
watering each, and then, after the water has subsided, 
laying three or four bricks above one another over 
one of the layers. We have seen this tried with 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



197 



the vine, and found the difference of effect truly as- 
tonishing. 

In laying plants in a private green-house, a very 
convenient mode is, to place a small pot on the sur- 
face of the larger one in which the plant grows, 
and lay down the shoot in that, fixing the pot 
with a pin so that it may not be disturbed. Some- 
times it answers to draw the shoot to be layered 
through the bottom of the pot, and midway up the 
pot, to make the incision ; but this though in common 
use in laying vines, and some creepers, as the Passi- 
jidrecB, is not generally applicable to green-house 
plants, owing to the shortness of their shoots. In 
nursery-gardens, where laying green-house plants, as 
the Camellia, riex, and some other difficult sorts, is 
practised on an extended scale, the whole plant is 
layed down on its side in a pit or house on purpose, 
and every part of it is turned into progeny. 

Layers are layed into the same soil as that in which 
the parent plant thrives the best ; but with the ad- 
dition of a little more sand to lessen the risk of sod- 
dening the soil by too much water. In general the 
layers should be formed of the young tender shoots 
of the present year, the soft bark of which will sooner 
form a callosity than that of any of the preceding 
year's growth. Next to these, the shoots of the pre- 
ceding year are to be preferred. 

It is particularly necessary to be observed, whether 
the plant is of a brittle nature or not ; for if it be, it 
will require very gentle treatment, and the points of 



198 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



the layers instead of being turned perpendicularly 
upwards, as should generally be done, must be left 
in an inclined position until they commence growing, 
when their tops will recur to the natural position of 
all plants. 

Where entire plants are laid down to produce 
layers, they are called stools ; and the main root re- 
mains there as a stool for several years, and affords 
an annual or biennial supply of shoots for laying 
down. In this case, care must be taken not to cover 
any part of the stool or of the root ends of the shoots 
with earth, beyond what is necessary to cause them 
to strike root, as that is very apt to rot them, and 
prevent them sending up shoots for another year. 

The Chinese mode of propagating trees may next 
be mentioned, as nearly allied to laying. The objects 
which they have in view are of two kinds : one is in 
the case of rare trees, merely to propagate them ; and 
the other, in the case of common sorts, to produce 
dwarfs, or miniature timber and fruit trees. Thus 
they have in small pots, branches of firs, pines, and 
cedars, bearing cones ; and of oaks, chestnuts, and 
beech, bearing acorns and mast. For propagation 
they make choice of a shoot of from one to tw^o or 
three years' growth ; and at the distance of a foot or 
more from its extremity, cut off a ring of bark an inch 
or two long ; over the decorticated part, and extend- 
ing two or three inches above and below it, they fix 
a ball of prepared loamy earth, being loam mixed 
with rich^desiccated night-soil or other manure and a 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



199 



Jittle sand : this they cover with moss, or several folds 
of cloth, and the whole is firmly tied to the shoot 
with cords or shreds of the bark of elm or lime. A 
strong stick is next inserted in the ground, and to 
this the shoot and ball of enveloped soil is tied to keep 
the whole secure ; and lastly, a porous earthenware 
vessel is supported by this stick, so as to hang over 
the ball; and this being filled with water, a few 
drops per day ooze through the sides of the vessel, 
collect on its bottom, and then drop on the ball. 
When the water gets low a fresh supply is added, 
and this is all the culture required till the roots are 
observed, on unfolding the envelope, to have pierced 
the mould, when the shoot is cut off with the ball, the 
moss or cloth taken off, and the plant, with the ball 
undisturbed, planted in a pot or in the open soil ac- 
cording to the kind. Rooting generally takes place 
in six months, but with some species a year is 
required. 

The next mode, which is for the purpose of pro- 
curing dwarf forest trees, is to fix on a handsome 
branch of a tree, in full bearing of fruit, cones, or 
seeds ; then at a convenient part free from side 
branches, where it may be from one to two inches in 
diameter, cut off a ring of bark, and proceed exactly 
as in the other case. This branch will sometimes, as 
in the case of the resinous tribe, require two or three 
years to root; but that being effected, the branch is 
cut off and potted, and is considered a great curiosity. 



200 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Such dwarfs seldom increase much in size, but go on 
bearing a few years, and then decline and die. 

The continental gardeners propagate a number of 
rose plants on the same principle, and evidently in 
imitation of the Chinese. They ring a shoot, and 
instead of tying a ball of earth round it, they have 
little tin vessels with a slit on one side, extending 
from the brim to a hole in the lower part of the side 
or the bottom. The shoot being prepared, the vessel 
is stretched so as to open the slit, in which the shoot is 
passed, till it comes to the hole where it remains, and 
the slit closes again by its own elasticity. The hole 
is then stopped, but not so as to entirely prevent water 
from escaping, and the pot or can being filled with 
the proper mould and watered, the operation is nearly 
completed. All that is done afterwards is in some 
cases to tie the tin case and shoot to a supporting 
rod, and sometimes to covei' the former with moss or 
rags. Some use earthenware vessels made in imita- 
tion of the tin ones; others, little wooden boxes, 
cocoa-nut shells, and we have even seen necks of 
bottles so applied. The principal part of the culture ' 
is not to neglect regular supplies of water. 

But these are clumsy modes, tedious, troublesome, 
and expensive, and therefore unworthy the imitation 
of British gardeners. 

From laying we proceed to inarching ; which may 
be called laying into wood, instead of laying into 
earth. It is a species of grafting, but differs from it 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



201 



in these particulars : that whereas in grafting the 
scion is at once totally separated from its parent plant, 
and the head of the stock is cut clear off before the 
splicing or fitting together takes place, here, on the 
contrary, neither the scion is separated from its parent, 
nor (in general) the head of the stock cut away, until 
the union becomes so far complete, that the first is 
unnecessary, and the latter injurious. It is in conse- 
quence much preferable to the common mode of graft- 
ing, for all delicate and difficult plants, and especially 
for evergreens. It is generally practised as the best 
means of multiplying all the fine double varieties of 
camellia, and plants of similar habits ; because their 
strong leathery leaves, if only for a few days deprived 
of their regular support, by being cut clean off from 
the mother stock, if not covered very closely with a 
glass will be certain to wither and fall off, after which 
there is very little chance of the scions completing a 
union with the stock. 

It is an important point in grafting of any kind, or 
in budding, to ascertain what sort of stocks may be 
used, and what may be the probable influence of the 
stock on the scion. The general and a safe rule is, 
to choose a stock from some of the coarser free-grow- 
ing varieties or species of the same genus ; and thus 
the common red camellia is chosen as a stock for most 
of the other sorts ; the common citron for the different 
sorts of orange, and so on. But sometimes the same 
genus does not afford a coarser-growing species, or 
perhaps there is no other species of that genus. 



202 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



What is to be done for a stock in this case ? All we 
can say is. Choose some free-growing plant of the 
same natm-al tribe or order, and as nearly allied to the 
genus as possible. This will not always answer, but 
it very often will, and at any rate it is the means by 
which sagacity must discover experimentally what 
will finally succeed. In general, all plants of the 
same natural family will breed together ; that is, pro- 
duce mules, if the operation of impregnation be care- 
fully effected by art, and will also bud and graft toge- 
ther. There are, however, numerous exceptions : 
thus, no one has ever (as far as we have ascertained) 
been able to produce a mule between the black and 
red currant, often as it has been tried ; nor will a pear 
grafted on apple, or the contrary, last above a year 
or two. 

With respect to the effect of the stock on the scion, 
that is as difficult to determine a priori as what plants 
will succeed grafted on each other. Arguing from 
what takes place in the case of fruit trees, we would 
say that vigorous growing trees will be dwarfed and 
thrown into a blossoming state, by being grafted on 
low-rooted kinds with few ramose and many fibrous 
roots ; as is the apple by being grafted on the paradise 
variety, and the pear on the quince ; and in like man- 
ner, that less robust kinds would have their vigour 
and duration somewhat increased by being grafted on 
free-growing branchy trees, as are the finer varieties 
of apple and pear by being grafted on the crab and 
wilding pear. Whether this universally holds or not 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



203 



we cannot determine ; but in the present state of our 
knowledge it is safe to act as if we thought so. As 
to the influence of the stock in changing the qualities 
of fruits, or the colours or fragrance of leaves or 
flowers, that is very uncertain. Quinces have been 
said to render some sorts of pears gritty, and crab 
stocks to lend acidity to some of the milder apples ; 
but these things are denied by some, and doubted by 
most who have considered the subject. One curious 
fact may be mentioned, which is, that a variegated 
jasmine, grafted on one not variegated, will transfer 
the variegation to the whole plant, and even to suckers 
rising from its roots. There is a proof of this in the 
botanic garden at Chelsea; and the same thing is said 
to take place with a variegated privet on a plain one, 
and with some sorts of Phillyrea. 

The manipulation of inarching is thus given by 
Cushing, as applicable to exotics in stoves or green- 
houses : * Having provided a stock nearly of the same 
diameter as the shoot which is intended for inarching, 
cut a thin slip from two to three inches long, and about 
one-third or something better of the whole thickness, 
smoothly off from each of them, in the clearest part 
of the stem, with a sharp knife ; the bark of each 
must then be fitted together exactly, and tied perfectly 
tight with good matting ; they must be clayed in the 
same manner as grafts ; and as being within doors in 
a warm house will occasion the clay to become over- 
dry, and in consequence liable to crust, they should 
(at least in hot weather) receive two or three times a 



204 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



week some water from the rose of a watering-pot, or 
by means of a syringe, to preserve it in a moist proper 
state, observing to do it in the evening, lest the leaves 
should get scorched by the rays of the sun : a little 
moss tied neatly round each ball of clay will prevent 
the watering from being so frequently necessary, and 
is therefore a very desirable addition.' Eight or ten 
weeks will in general be found sufficient time for them 
to unite ; at all events, by that time they may be par- 
tially separated from the parent plant, by cutting the 
inarched shoots more than half-way through ; and if 
on trial they are found to be united, and bear that 
operation well, they may in a few days afterwards be 
entirely cut off and placed in a shady part of the 
house, where they must be kept moderately syringed 
as before, and some additional shade given, according 
to the state of the weather, for two or three weeks, 
during which time they may be untied, and the top of 
the stock cut off in a neat manner ; and also any un- 
necessary part of the lower end of the scion that may 
remain. Then apply a little clay to facilitate the 
healing of the wounds, which will take place in a few 
weeks, when the plant may be considered as esta- 
blished and fit to be placed among the general col- 
lection. 

There is a method of propagating some green- 
house plants, especially camellias and oranges, which 
Cushing describes as midway between inarching and 
grafting. By this mode the top of the stock is left 
on as in inarching, but the scion is cut off as in graft- 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



205 



ing : it is chiefly applicable to such plants as can he 
covered with hell-glasses. 

A seedling lemon or orange of a year old being 
procured as a stock, ' choose a scion of similar 
diameter, and cut the lower end of it in a sloping 
direction as for the common whip graft. Then, 
without taking off the head of the stock, cut from the 
clearest part of its stem an equal splice, as smoothly 
as possible, so as to be fit to receive the scion : let 
neither stock nor scion be tongue d, but apply the 
scion to the stock in a neat manner, so that their 
barks on both edges and below may join, and then 
tie them in a firm manner with matting, and clay 
them as in grafting. Then cover with a tall glass or 
receiver (technically a cap) , and plunge in a mode- 
rate bottom heat, and shade and treat in all respects 
as cuttings.' In six weeks the scion will have begun 
to grow, and the head of the stock may be cut neatly 
off, and the clay and ties removed by degrees. 

Grafting is occasionally practised with green-house 
plants, but it is not in very general use. There are 
many varieties of grafting, but the most general is 
the whip method commonly adopted by the nurserymen 
in grafting fruit-trees. It can hardly be considered 
necessary to describe the mode of performing the 
operation, it being so generally known ; and it would 
be of little advantage to describe one method, unless 
others were also added. Those amateur cultivators 
who wish to acquire the practice of it, will learn more 
from observing an expert gardener perform the 



206 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



operation a few times, than from several pages of 
description. 

The success of grafting, whatever kind be em- 
ployed, depends chiefly on the exact union of the 
inner bark of the scion with the inner bark of the 
stock, by which means the sap is enabled to ascend 
from the soft wood or alburnum of the latter through 
that of the former, and to return in like manner 
through their united barks. The other requisites to 
success are of inferior consequence, but still deserve 
attention : they are that the sap of both scion and stock 
must be in motion, and that nearly in the same degree 
in each ; and that the operation be performed with 
celerity. 

In grafting, it has been observed that the nearer 
the graft is made to the root of the stock, so much 
greater is the probability of success. Hence green- 
house and other rare plants are sometimes grafted 
very low, and sometimes even on the roots. When 
low, in addition to claying, the graft is earthed up to 
the upper edge of the clay, or the lowest bud of the 
scion, , and this is found of great use by preserving an 
equable degree of moisture, and preventing much 
waste by transpiration. Another advantage of low 
grafting in the green-house is, that the plant can be 
covered with a cap or bell glass, which is always of 
advantage. 

As we have described a mode of inarching nearly 
allied to grafting, as practised by Mr. Gushing, so we 
shall here describe a mode of grafting nearly allied 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



207 



to budding as practised by Mr. Nairn, a very ingenious 
man and an excellent practical gardener. This mode 
is far easier than either inarching or common graft- 
ing, and therefore deserves the particular attention 
of the amateur. Mr. Nairn applied it to orange trees, 
and gives the following directions : — ^ Let the opera- 
tor select as many orange or lemon stocks as he 
wishes to work, and place them on a moderate hot- 
bed for a fortnight, by which time the sap will have 
risen sufficiently to move the bark : the stocks must 
then be cut off about two inches above the surface of 
the pot^ and an incision made with a sharp knife 
similar to what is done for budding, separating the 
bark from the wood on each side. Let the scion be 
cut thin in a sloping direction, and thrust between 
the bark and wood, and then bound tight with woollen 
yarn ; but very great care must be taken in binding, 
to prevent the bark from slipping round the stock, 
which without attention it is very apt to do. After 
it is properly and neatly bound, put a little loam or 
clay close round the stock to the surface of the pot, 
then cover with a cap-glass. This cap-glass or re- 
ceiver must be of a form bellied out a little towards 
the top, and with the top more acute than is usual, 
in order that the condensed damp that will collect on 
it may run down its sides, and not drop down from 
the roof on the scion. The glass must be pressed 
firmly into the mould to prevent the air or steam from 
getting to the plant, and must not be taken off unless 



208 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



any of the leaves are found damping off, and then 
only to remove those ; when it must be immediately 
replaced and made air-tight. The operation of 
grafting and putting on the glasses completed, plunge 
the pots on a hot-bed with a brisk heat, and in about 
six weeks the glasses may be taken off and the clay 
and binding removed ; but it will be necessary to bind 
on a little damp moss in lieu of the clay, and to keep 
the glasses on in the heat of the day, taking "them olF 
at night. In about three weeks or a month, they 
will be in a fit state to be taken into the green-house, 
when they will be found one of the greatest orna- 
ments it can receive.' (Hort. Trans, vol. iii.) 

Mr. Nairn has in this Avay grafted scions with 
blossom buds, and had ripe fruit the same year of 
grafting : — he has gone even so far as to graft with both 
fruit and flowers on the scion. When this is to be 
done, he recommends the mandarin as the best to 
commence with, as the fruit is more firmly fixed than 
that of any of the other sorts : he says he has had 
seven of these oranges on a plant in a pot, commonly 
called a small sixty, which he justly observes is one 
of the most curious and handsome ornaments that the 
green-house can receive. 

One or two green-house plants are propagated by 
budding, and more might be so increased, especially 
if the scallope or French mode of budding Avere 
adopted. The common mode of budding, by inserting 
a bud with a portion of bark attached, under a piece 



THE green-house!. 



209 



of bark raised up from the stock, differs from laying, 
inarching, and grafting, inasmuch as the ascending 
or wood sap is in no way concerned. The bud is 
fixed entirely by the sap of the bark, with probably 
some aid from what may ooze out of the soft wood. 

But the scallope, escutcheon, or French mode of bud- 
ding, in which a section or scallope of bark and wood 
containing a bud is taken from one tree, and applied 
to a part of the stem of another tree, where a similar 
scallope had been removed, acts exactly on the prin- 
ciple of the graft, and is best performed in the graft- 
ing season. 

The common mode of budding, which is the 
simplest, and with most plants the most certain, is 
performed when the young shoots of the season have 
nearly completed their growth; then the buds are 
formed, and the bark separates freely from the young 
wood. Scallope-budding is chiefly used in propa- 
gating roses, as in them the bark does not separate 
readily ; but in green-house plants it might be used 
in the case of plants which are too small for separat- 
ing a single bud, but Avhere a scallope containing two 
or three buds may be taken off and inserted. In this 
way more plants might be got from a given extent of 
shoot, than either by grafting, inarching, or laying, 
or even propagating by cuttings. 

Formerly it was thought grafting and budding 
could only be applied to ligneous plants ; but now it 
is found that annuals, biennials, and perennials, may 
be budded or grafted. The Georgina is sometimes 

p 



$10 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



propagated in this way ; a young shoot of any rare 
sort being grafted on a tuber of a Lardy kind. Baron 
Tsclioudi, an ingenious French horticulturist, informs 
us that he has grafted the love-apple on the potato, 
the melon on the gourd, and the cabbage on the cau- 
liflower. (See Essai sur la Greffe de VHerhe, par 
le Baron Tschoudi, Sfc. 1819.) 



Subsect. 5. Propagation of Green-house Plants hy 
their hams. 

The propagation of plants by their leaves is com- 
paratively a recent discovery. It takes place in nature 
with a few plants, such as the Dionce^a, Scilla, 
&c., and with the hairy Ladies'-smock {Cai^ddmine 
hirsuta), a native of this country. All the improve- 
ment which art has hitherto made on this natural 
mode of propagation, is to take off the leaves when 
they are fully grown, and instead of dropping them 
on the earth at random, to lay them on their backs on 
moist earth shaded either by position or by covering, 
or, what is generally preferable, by a little fresh moss 
strewed over them. All the culture necessary till the 
young plants form themselves on the edge of the 
leaves, is to keep the moss and earth below of a regu- 
lar degree of moisture, and exclude bright sunshine. 
The following green-house and hot-house plants may 
be propagated in this way, covering the more delicate 
^ith a bell-glass 



THE GEEEN-HOUSE. 



311 



Bryophy'Uum caly&inum. 
Gloxinia speciosa. 
Dionce^a muscipula. 
Verea crenafa. 
A^rum, various species. 
Hoy a carnosa. 



A^loe, most of the species. 
Xylophy'lla, any species. 
Crdssula, many species. 
Cotyledon orbicularis. 
All the squamose bulbs, and 
probably many others. 



Other plants throw out roots from the petioles of 
the leaves, without, as far as has hitherto been ob- 
served, having the power to generate buds. Such 
are Camellia, jducuha, Laurus, &c. Others root 
from the points of their lateral branches, without, as 
far as has been observed, having the power to form a 
main shoot, as the Aiiracaria or Brazilian pine. 

We have already described the mode in which 
scaly bulbs may be increased by the leaves, viz. by 
pulling a full-grown leaf oiF with the scale attached, 
and planting it in a pot of sandy loam; this will 
form a callosity of granulous matter^ which soon takes 
the form of a young bulb or bulbs. 

Tunicate bulbs we have also shown may be in- 
creased by cutting off the upper part of the bulb hori- 
zontally, when each coating will throw out little gems 
from its upper edge. 

These and other modes of propagating plants are 
partly the result of accident, and partly of the great 
progress made in vegetable physiology. The more 
common modes of dividing the roots of tuberous or 
fusiform plants, and dividing at the root of fibrous 
perennials, or under-shrubs, are so simple and well 
know^n as not to recjuire description. 



212 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



Sect. VII. Of the Management of the Conser- 

vatory. 

The treatment of plants in a conservatory differs 
in nothing essential from that of plants in a green- 
house : the former being fixed in the soil, in order 
to give them the advantage of the natural weather, 
the superstructure must be moved from them, or at 
least its sashes taken away ; while the latter being 
portable may be moved from the house. 

All the directions as to routine culture for the dif- 
ferent seasons, are alike applicable to the conserva- 
tory. The same temperature is required, the same 
light, the same circulation of air, and the same liberal 
supply of water to plants in a growing state, and 
scanty watering to those which are at r^st or dormant. 
Weeds and insects are to be removed, and all dead, 
decayed, withered or damped leaves picked off as 
soon as they appear. The plants must be neatly 
pruned, thinned, and trained to handsome shapes by 
the aid of sticks and threads, and, where the branches 
are very strong, by copper wires attached to fixed 
points in the structure, or strong sticks inserted in the 
soil. Climbers are- generally more numerous in a 
conservatory than in a green-house, and they must be 
particularly attended to so as to make them hang in 
graceful festoons, and yet so thinned and pruned as to 
keep them in a flowering state. It is a common idea 
that only fruit trees require pruning ; but the fact is, 



tHE GREEN-HOUSE. 



213 



that trees or shrubs cultivated for their blossoms re- 
quire just as much pruning as when the blossoms are 
to be succeeded by edible fruits. Conservatory trees 
therefore must be pruned just as regularly every au- 
tumn or spring, as are fruit trees. 

The end of May or beginning of J une is the usual 
time of exposing the plants of the conservatory fully 
to the weather. Previously to that, the front sashes 
should have been removed for some weeks, and air 
admitted by the roof sashes night and day for at least 
a w^eek. This hardens the plants by degrees, and 
prepares them for a full exposure to the weather. 

About the middle of September, or as soon as it 
is thought necessary to house the other green-house 
plants, the roof-lights of the conservatory should be 
put in their places ; the ends may remain open a week 
or ten days, and the front a fortnight or three weeks 
longer according to the weather. Afterwards, when 
the house is shut up every night, the greatest care 
must be had to ventilate freely every day ; for the 
damps of this foggy season are very apt to generate 
mouldiness on the soil, and on the leaves and shoots 
not freely exposed to the light and air. 

A conservatory after being planted a few years will 
require the liberal use of the knife to keep the more 
woody plants within due bounds ; most of the shrubs 
will require to be cut in and pruned so as to keep 
them clothed to the surface, and the trees will require 
to be headed down to the tops of their stems. Both 
trees and shrubs will occasionally require to be cut 



§14 



THE GREEN-HOUSE, 



"down to the ground, and when this is done care must 
he taken not to go below the graft. We have heard 
of a collection of Camellias planted in a conservatory 
in Kent, which after seven years' growth were cut 
down in this way to renew them : they all grew most 
vigorously, but when they came to blossom showed 
only single red flowers, which told what had been 
- done. The conservatory alluded to had a fixed roof, 
and the plants could only enjoy the weather through 
the sides ; by which most erroneous construction the 
plants became etiolated, and so naked below that every 
six or seven years they had all either to be cut down 
or renewed. 

A very agreeable ornament to the beds and borders 
of the conservatory is formed by planting them with 
the stronger- growing species of I^ocicb, Gladioli, and 
the other genera lately separated from these. The 
fine tall stems of these bulbs shoot up through the 
woody undergrowths, and their brilliant red, scarlet, 
and white flowers make a fine appearance. They 
may be planted in the beds exactly at the same time 
in which they are potted for green-house culture, and 
they may remain two or three years in the soil, if de- 
sired, without injury, flowering every year. 

A cistern is frequently placed in the conservatory 
and devoted to the culture of aquatics. Though most 
of these are hot-house plants, and require more heat 
than is proper for this department, yet some species 
of the NymphcB^a, Menyanthes, jiponogeton, Hedy^- 
chium, Calla, Trapay &c., will live there, and flower 



THE GREEN-HOUSE, 



21^ 



with a moderate degree of vigour. Tliese plants 
require to be potted in rich loamy soil in moderate - 
sized pots ; which in the case of plants with long 
upright foot- stalks to the leaves should be placed a 
foot or more under water ; while others with slender 
floating foot-stalks, as MenyantJies, should be set on 
shelves or other supports so as to raise the brim of 
the pots to within an inch or two of the surface. A 
small but daily supply of fresh water, and occasional 
clearing from slime or other dirt that happens to 
accumulate, is all the culture such plants require. 
They are generally increased by dividing at the root ; 
and some few, as the Trdpa, ripen seeds. 



Sect. VIII. Management of Town Green-Jioiises, 
and of Plants in Chambers at Routs. 

Town green-houses are generally on a small scale, 
and seldom accompanied by sheds for potting and 
shifting, stocks of mould, and a platform for setting 
out the plants in summer : if they Avere, it is probable 
these adjuncts would be of very little use, for no 
green-house plant will ever thrive in a town where 
fossil coal is generally consumed. All that can be 
said with advantage on town green-houses might be 
comprised in very few words : viz. that the only way 
to have them look well is to agree with a nursery- 
man to keep up a supply of verdant flowering plants 
for such a part of the year as the family is in town. 
We are confident there is no other mode that will be 



216 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



attended with success, till the nature of plants or the 
nature of a coal fire is considerably altered. 

A number of London green-houses, placed behind 
the houses on the tops of kitchens and other offices, 
and of plant cabinets communicating with living- 
rooms, are maintained in order by nurserymen in this 
way : and a number also are kept in order, as it is 
called, by jobbing gardeners, who call occasionally 
to see that the plants are properly watered, who 
supply pots of mignionette, and who shift the plants 
in spring, and prune them in autumn. But the 
green-houses managed in the latter mode are wretched 
vegetable abodes, — hospitals or pest-houses of plants ; 
and to any person Avho knows what a green healthy 
plant is, they are deformities rather than ornaments. 

Another mode in which green-houses in the me- 
tropolis are sometimes managed is as follows : — The 
occupier of the London house has a villa within 
fifteen or twenty miles of town, where he has a green- 
house, or grapery and green-house combined, with 
pits and hot-beds, and keeps a gardener. From the 
country weekly supplies of vegetables, butter, eggs, 
fowls, cream, and pots of forced articles, are obtained, 
and faded flowers and sickly green-house plants re- 
turned. This is certainly the proudest and most 
gratifying mode of all ; but yet as far as the green- 
house is concerned, it is attended with less show than 
where a nurseryman of extensive practice in the cul- 
ture of plants in pots is employed. Such a nursery- 
man has four grand sources of disposing of plants in 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



217 



flower, besides his ordinary chance buyers and pri- 
vate custom : first, he sells to the hawkers ; next, he 
can send to Covent-garden market by cart-loads ; 
third, he supplies green-houses by the month or year, 
and lastly, he supplies routs. He is never therefore 
without a large stock in hand ; and in order to make 
the most of these, he first tries them at market when 
they are barely coming into flower, which state suits 
the shopkeepers who buy to keep them a week or 
two to sell again. If he fails there, the hawkers 
come to him every morning and see what he has got 
a bargain ; and his next resource is the green-houses, 
cabinets, or chamber-stages, which he supplies by 
contract ; and when he removes them from thence in 
their last stage of beauty, he sends them to a rout, 
where one night in general kills or half kills alike 
the best and w^orst of plants ; and for which he gets 
the plant returned and half its price. In this way it 
is that a public dealer can always afford to keep up a 
finer display of plants in a town green-house than 
any private gentleman whatever with a country villa. 
Some families who have no green-house, keep up 
a stock of plants in their rooms by purchasing at the 
nurseries, and at Covent-garden market ; but this is 
done at greater expense than by contracting with a 
nurseryman, because the family can make no use of 
the plants when out of flower. When this mode is 
confined to annuals, such as mignionette, wall-flowers, 
sweet-peas, &c., or to bulbous roots, it does very well. 



218 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



as these when they have done flowering are of no use 
to any one. 

But notwithstanding all that we have said, there 
is no doubt a number of persons who will go on ma- 
naging their town green-houses themselves, and to 
such it is proper we should offer the best advice in 
our power. 

1st. We recommend them to grow only the most 
hardy plants, and such as flower freely, as Geraniums, 
Mi/'^7*tles, Coluteas, Pittosporums, Corrce^as, Acacias, 
and the like ; and to indulge only in the hardier 
heaths and camellias, with but a few orange trees. 

2d. W e advise pots more than usually well drained; 
say none but what have their bottoms covered with 
an inch of gravel at least, to prevent all chance of 
the stagnation of water, and lessen the evils of what 
is almost certain of taking place, over-watering. 

3d. Whatever soils may be used, we would advise 
mixing some very coarse sand and small gravel with 
them to prevent the soil, when watering was too long 
deferred, (which it would certainly be every now and 
then,) from getting so hard and compact that water 
would not penetrate through it. 

4th. Where saucers are placed below the pots to 
prevent the water which escapes from the latter from 
wetting the floor of the room or green-house, we 
advise the saucer to be half filled with gravel, in 
order that the soil or gravel in the inside of the pot 
may never stand soaking in water. When this is 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



219 



not done, then as a substitute let a large sponge be 
used an hour after every watering, to suck up the 
water which has run through into the saucers ; but 
few servants can be trusted to attend to this. 

5th. We advise frequent watering over-head to 
remove dust and dirt; and when this is not done 
effectually by a shower from the rose of the water- 
ing-pot held high above them, or from the free use 
of Read's syringe, then we recommend washing each 
plant leaf by leaf with a wet sponge. 

6th. We advise giving as much air as possible in 
the day-time, and on account of the frequent water- 
ings over-head that will become necessary, and also 
to keep the plants in a fresh, verdant, and even grow- 
ing and flowering state during winter, a rather higher 
degree of heat at that season than we have recom- 
mended for the villa green-house. 

7th. The construction of the green-house should 
be such as to admit as much light as possible — more 
so if practicable than the villa green-house, as the 
light of cities is less pure. The plants should be set 
nearer to the glass for the same reason ; and, what 
is seldom necessary in the country at all, the glass 
should be cleaned three or four times a year. In 
correspondence with these directions, few creepers 
are admissible in town green-houses. 

8tli. The plants should, if room and other circum- 
stances permit, be completely exposed to the open 
air in the same way as green-house plants, and shifted, 



220 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



and in all other respects not above noticed, treated 
like tliem. 

The management of plants in chambers can only 
be understood to apply to the short time in which 
they are kept there. This time should be as short 
as possible, if it be intended that the plants should 
live and thrive afterwards. The only true way to 
have a fine display on the chamber-stage, is, never to 
bring the plants there till they are just coming into 
flower, and to remove them when the flowers first show 
indications of decay, unless the plant appears to be 
growing sickly before, which with heaths, geraniums, 
and camellias, is very often the case. During the 
time they are kept in the chamber, the surface of the 
pot should either be covered with fine fresh moss or 
coarse sand, to lessen the evaporation from the moist 
earth of the pot, and to prevent the earth fi'om caking 
with the heat of the chamber : the water which passes 
through the bottom of the pot into the saucer, should 
be instantly extracted with a sponge to prevent eva- 
poration, and none should be spilt on the leaves or 
tha stage. As much air should be admitted by open- 
ing the windows, as is consistent with the use of the 
room, and the stage should, in the day-time at least, 
be kept as near the windows as possible. It is not 
essential that the sun should shine on the plants, so as 
they have abundance of reflected light. It is almost 
needless to observe, that they should before being 
brought there be tied up, or otherwise arranged with 



THE GEEEN-HOUSE. 



221 



tlie greatest neatness, and that while in the chamber, 
all decayed or injured parts should be removed, and 
any dirt or dust carefully wiped off with a moistened 
sponge. When the plants are taken back to the 
green-house, a little extra heat and moisture will in 
general recover them. 

Plants at routs require little management while 
there, but must be tastefully arranged individually by 
rods and threads, and well syringed, and also watered 
at the root. The soil should be covered with moss, 
and the pot either cleaned and painted in any appro- 
priate body colour, or chalked, or covered with co- 
loured paper. An earthen brown with black and 
gray lines is among the most suitable colours, whether 
for the temporary painting, chalking, or papering. 
Where the plants are only to remain one night, they 
need not be set in saucers, but only on paper or small 
carpets of the size of the bottom of the pot ; but where 
they are to decorate the apartments for two or three 
days in succession, they should be set in saucers on a 
little gravel, and over the gravel the saucer filled 
brim-full with moss or fine green turf This looks 
well, and the space occupied by the gravel admits of 
giving the plants daily a little water, which greatly 
refreshes them in this state of trial. 

The arrangement of the plants in the rooms is va- 
rious, and depends on the kind of rout or entertain- 
ment. In common cases they are placed in recesses, 
and on side tables, and near glasses which may re- 
flect them ; and a few choice specimens are scattered 



222 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



over the floor as single objects. But in more select 
entertainments, a proportionate attention is paid to 
their arrangement. During dinner a few pots of 
fruit-bearing shrubs, or trees with their fruit ripe, 
are ranged along the centre of the table, from which, 
during the dessert, the fruit is gathered by the com- 
pany. Sometimes a row of orange trees, or standard 
peach trees, or cherries, or all of them, in fruit, sur- 
round the table of the guests ; one plant being placed 
exactly behind each chair, leaving room for the ser- 
vants to approach between. Sometimes only one 
tall handsome tree is placed behind the master, and 
another behind the mistress ; and sometimes only a 
few pots of lesser articles are placed on the side-board, 
or here and there round the room. 

The drawing-room is sometimes laid out like an 
orange-grove, by distributing tall orange trees all 
over it in regular quincunx, so that the heads of the 
trees may be higher than those of the company : seats 
are also neatly made over the pots and boxes, to con- 
ceal them, and serve the purpose of chairs. One or 
two cages with nightingales and canary-birds are 
distributed among the branches, and where there is 
a want of real fruit, that is supplied by art. Some- 
times also art supplies the entire tree, which during 
artificial illumination is hardly recognised as a work 
of art,^ and a very few real trees and flowers inter- 
spersed with these made ones, will keep up the odour 
and the illusion to nature. 

Sometimes large picture galleries are laid out in 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



223 



imitation of parks in the ancient or modern style, 
with avenues or with groups and scattered trees. At 
masqued routs, caves and grottos are formed under 
conical stages, and covered with moss and pots of 
trees, in imitation of wooded hills. In short, there 
is no end to the arrangement of plants at routs : and 
the reader is not to suppose that only real plants with 
roots are necessary for this purpose ; for, provided a 
few of these be judiciously introduced, all the rest 
can he effected by branches of box, laurustinus, laurel, 
juniper, holly, &c., decorated with artificial flowers 
and fruits, and fitted to stems or trunks to answer 
either as trees or shrubs ; and besides these, whole 
pine and fir trees, the spruce especially, can be cut 
over, and thus admirable groves formed- in a short 
time. Artificial supplies of odour of the rose, the 
orange, or the jasmine, are readily supplied. Much 
romantic splendour may be produced in this way with 
little expense of green-house plants. 

Next to the common domestic flower- stage, and a 
handsome plant placed here and there in spare places 
in the lobby, hall, staircase, &c., are a few choice 
specimens of tall plants in fruit or flower, distributed 
in the drawing-room : the orange, the camellia, the 
acacia, and tree heaths, are well adapted for this 
purpose. 



224 



■THE GREEN-HOUSiE. 



Sect. IX. Management of Bulbs in JVater- 
glasses ; care of Nosegays y S^c. 

The next point for consideration is the management 
of bulbous -rooted flowers planted on water. This is 
done in various ways. Sometimes a large vessel, two 
or three feet in diameter and a foot deep, has a cover 
fitted to it ; in this cover are holes (the largest towards 
the centre) in concentric circles, on which to place a 
collection of bulbs, from the crocus, which is placed 
outside, to the strongest polyanthus-narcissus, which 
when in flower forms the apex of the cone in the 
centre. Sometimes a cone, or semi-globe, or semi- 
dome, is formed by tin troughs six or eight inches 
deep, and not wider than two inches, to which covers 
with holes for the bulbs are fitted. This construction 
admits of placing bulbs in horizontal rows rising above 
one another to the apex of the cone or dome. The 
bulbs may either be mixed, or of the same species 
but of different varieties, as a cone of many different 
sorts of hyacinths, another of narcissi, tulips. Sec, 
The cases being filled with water, and the bulbs 
placed over the holes, the whole cone should then be 
neatly covered with green moss, so as to show only a 
part of the necks of the bulbs. They will grow beau- 
tifully; and when the flower-stalks can no longer 
support themselves, there is a wire ring to each trough 
about six inches above its surface, and another three 
inches above that, to which they as well as any weak 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



225 



leaves can be tied. The water in each trough can be 
renewed, without disturbing the bulbs, by a small 
cock which points to the inside of the cone or dome ; 
and to the whole there is a tin bottom to collect any 
drops of water which may escape from leakage or 
otherwise. The invention of this mode is by some 
attributed to the Dutch, and by others to a Russian, 
it having been chiefly displayed in some of the Peters- 
burg palaces. The most general mode of planting 
bulbs on water is by flower-glasses, well known to 
every one. There are two sorts ; one with darkened 
glass, which is the best for the roots as excluding the 
light ; and the other with bright glass, which shows 
to the spectator the progress of the roots. Here each 
bulb is grown by itself, and when its flower, stem, or 
leaves require support, one or more props are affixed 
to the base in which the glass is placed. 

All sorts of bulbs may most probably be blown on 
water ; but those chiefly so blown are the hyacinth, 
polyanthus -narcissus, early tulip, Persian iris, crocus, 
and a few others. The colchicum, Guernsey lily, saf- 
fron crocus, and some other autumn bulbs, will also 
flower very well in this way : the variegated colchi- 
cum, when it is prolific in flowers, has a very fine 
appearance. 

The season for placing the bulbs on water may be 
any period after they have been matured ; but the most 
usual time with spring bulbs is October, and from 
that month to February ; and with autumn bulbs 
August and September. We have already mentioned 

Q 



226 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



that planting in earth for a few weeks such bulbs as 
are to be blown on water, is the best mode of causing 
them to protrude roots freely, which when they are 
placed on water at once is not always the case. 
Whenever the roots are a quarter of an inch in length, 
take them out of the earth, wash them gently so as not 
to injure the radicles, and then place them on the water. 

It is not essential that bulbs on water should be 
placed in much heat, for the principal stimulus to a 
new-planted bulb is the moisture ; and if the room in 
which the glasses are placed be kept to 45° or 48°, 
that will promote their vegetation for some time as 
much as 10° or 15° higher. When the flower-stem 
has risen an inch or two, then the heat may be con- 
siderably increased : that is, the glasses may be moved 
from a room without a fire to one where a fire is kept, 
and where the temperature will generally be found 
between 55° and 65°. Here they will advance with 
considerable rapidity, especially if placed on a stand 
or stage near a window of south or south-east aspect. 
They will blow however without any sun ; but the 
colours of the flowers will be inferior. It is a re- 
markable circumstance of the crocus, that it keeps 
its petals expanded during a tolerably bright candle 
or lamp light, in the same way as it does during the 
light of the sun. If the candle be removed, the cro- 
cuses close their petals, as they do in the garden when 
a cloud obscures the sun ; and when the artificial light 
is restored, they open again as they do with the return 
of the direct solar rays. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



227 



Those who keep bulbs on water are often at a loss 
when to change it. There is no fixed time for this 
purpose : the principle is to keep the water sweet and 
pure. In a temperature of 45° or 48°, when the bulbs 
are newly planted, this will be effected by changing 
once a week : at 60°, and the glass nearly filled with 
roots, the water will get putrid and show a muddiness 
in two or three days or less, and whenever it does so 
it ought to be changed. The operation of changing 
is easily done by one person, when the roots are only 
an inch or two long ; but after the flower-stems are 
of some length, and the roots nearly at the bottom of 
the glass, two persons become requisite ; one to take 
out the bulb and hold it, and to dip its roots once or 
twice in a vessel of clear water to clean them a little ; 
and another to empty and rinse out the glass and refill 
it with water. 

It is essential that the water used for renewal or for 
rinsing the roots, should be of the same temperature 
as that which it is to replace ; and this can easily be 
done by keeping it a day or two in a room of similar 
temperature, or pouring a little hot water into cold 
water, and proving it with a thermometer. Whether 
the water be hard or soft is of no great consequence, 
but soft or rain water is considered preferable. 

Forced bulbs are seldom good for anything after- 
wards. However, those who wish to preserve them, 
may immerse them wholly in water for a few weeks, 
and then having taken them up and dried them in the 
shade for a few days, they may be planted in good 

Q 2 



22S 



THE GREEN-HOUSE. 



soil, when they will sometimes flower the second year. 
It does not clearly appear in w^hat way the water ope- 
rates when the bulb is wholly immersed ; but it is 
certain that bulbs so treated increase in size and so- 
lidity by it, and have an incomparably better chance 
of flowering the second year, than those which have 
not been so treated. 

Most probably their total immersion enables them 
to obtain a greater proportion of oxygen from the 
water. 

Nosegays should have the water in which their ends 
are inserted changed on the same principle as bulbous 
roots ; and a much faded nosegay, or one dried up, 
may often be recovered for a time, by covering with 
a crystal bell or cap, or by substituting warm water 
for cold. 

Those who wish further details as to plants in 
rooms, or what the French and Germans call window 
gardening, may consult a little work entitled Le Jar- 
T dinier des Jene^res, des apartemens, Sfc. Paris, 
1823, 12mo. 



END OF PART I. 



PART II. 



THE 

GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE; 



CONTAINING 

A BOTANICAL ARRANGEMENT OF ALL THE GREEN-HOUSE 
PLANTS IN CULTIVATION, WIT^I THEIR PROPER SOILS, 
MODES OF PROPAGATION, REFERENCES TO BOTANICAL 
WORKS IN WHICH THEY ARE FIGURED; AND OTHER 
PARTICULARS. 



lir 



PART 11. 



THE 

GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE, 

INCLUDING ALL THE GREEN-HOUSE AND FRAME I>LANTS 
HITHERTO IN CULTIVATION. 



In arranging this Catalogue we have adopted the 
natural method of Jussieu, for two reasons that will 
at once appear obvious to the botanical cultivator, 
though they may require some explanation to the 
general reader. 

In the artificial system of Linnaeus, plants are 
brought together in orders according to the number 
or position of the stamens and pistils of the flower, 
without regard to anything else ; and as plants 
which are alike as to stamens and pistils are often 
exceedingly unlike in everything else, there is 
no sort of harmony or resemblance in the general 
appearance of any Linnsean order. But in the sys- 
tem of Jussieu plants are brought together into orders 
and groups, not from their agreeing in stamens or in 
any other particular part of the plant, but from their 
agreeing in the greatest number of particulars ; and 



232 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



hence a general harmony and resemblance pervades 
the whole order, and any person who knows or can 
recollect the appearance of any one plant in that 
order, will have a tolerably correct idea of the whole 
group. The names -of these orders are generally 
taken from some genus contained in it, which is 
reckoned a prototype of the whole ; and thus to those 
who recollect any species of that genus a very useful 
practical idea of the order will be formed. Thus, 
whoever knows any species of the genus My^rtus, 
Myrtle, will be able to form a pretty good idea of the 
order Myrteacece, and so on. This is our first reason 
for arranging our catalogue according to the natural 
method, rather than that of Linneeus^ or of any other 
whatever. 

A second reason is, that plants of the same natural 
order very often agree as to their modes of artificial 
propagation and culture : many even agree in their 
natural modes of propagation ; and with some orders, 
as the AmaryllidecB, Rhodoracece, GeraniacecBi &c., 
it is thought that mules may be formed between any 
two species belonging to any one of these orders, 
though of different genera. Hence, by treating of 
the genera of these orders together, much repetition 
is avoided, and the reader enabled to have a much 
clearer idea of what he is reading, by always bearing 
in mind the leading features of the plants of the order. 
Thus, the order IridecB, which contains a consider- 
able number of genera, almost all bulbs, growing in 
the same soil, and propagated by offsets, if arranged 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 233 



alphabetically, would afford a genus for most letters 
of the alphabet, and thus be scattered throughout the 
whole catalogue. Then to each genus the soil, mode 
of propagation, and the statement that it was a bulb, 
&c. &c., must have to be added ; whereas, by keep- 
ing them together, the title of the order at once gives 
the idea of the plants contained in it — their ensate 
leaves, brilliant flowers, and bulbous roots. These 
ideas the reader will carry along with him in perusing 
the names and descriptive traits of each genus and 
species, and thus have a more definite notion of what 
he is reading about than could be otherwise obtained. 

An arrangement according to the natural resem- 
blances of plants is also far more suitable for such as 
wish to choose a general collection ; for to a person 
who does not know plants, what guide will the mere 
names afford ? or their alphabetical or Linnsean ar- 
rangement ? None whatever. But a person wholly 
unacquainted with plants, if he chooses a species or 
one or two species from each of the natural orders, 
even at random, would be certain of having a collec- 
tion exhibiting a prototype of the whole list of green- 
house plants. If instead of this he were to select two 
or three plants from each of the Linneean orders, he 
might omit many of the natural orders altogether; 
might omit some of the finest kinds of vegetable 
beauty, and, of course, could not have anything like 
a complete collection. In short, the advantages of 
the natural arrangement of plants are more numerous 
than we can here afford room to explain, not only to 



234 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



such as already know plants, but even to those whd 
are ignorant of botany. Some bigoted and interested 
admirers of the Linnsean system have long tried hard 
to prevent the spread of that of Jussieu in this coun- 
try ; but it has finally prevailed ; and after the long- 
continued exertions in its favour by Mr. Brown and 
Mr. R. A. Salisbury, we at last observe that even Sir 
J. E. Smith, the ' possessor of the Linnsean herba- 
rium,' has annexed the names of the natural orders 
of Jussieu and Brown to his translation of Flora 
Bntannica. 

We are far from insinuating by these observations 
that the natural method will supersede that of Lin- 
naeus ; it is neither desirable nor probable that it ever 
should do so. The method of Linneeus is by far the 
best for a beginner ; it facilitates the knowledge of 
plants as individual objects, while the natural mode 
enlarges the understanding by generalizing facts. 
* Plants arranged according to the natural method,' 
it has been observed, ' may be compared to words 
arranged according to their roots or derivations ; ar- 
ranged according to the Linnsean method, they may 
be compared to words in a dictionary.' 

The alphabetical mode of arrangement is that 
which is commonly resorted to in catalogues or lists 
of this kind : but this is the worst of all modes, since 
the mere circumstance of agreeing in the initial letter 
of the name can never be any philosophical or sci- 
entific ground of union ; and as to the convenience of 
turning to any genus when they are so arranged, that 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 235 



is much more completely and effectually obtained by 
a general alphabetical index to the whole work, which 
under the name of any one genus refers not only to 
the catalogue but to all the different parts of the book 
where that genus is mentioned. 

Such are the reasons for the arrangement we have 
adopted ; which being rather new in works of culture, 
we deemed it necessary thus to explain its uses and 
advantages. 



RANUNCULA^CEiE. 

Pjio^nia Moutan, the Chinese Tree Pseony, a low shrub, 
a native of China^ introduced in 1789, and flowering in 
April, May, and June. 

There are three varieties, viz. 
P. M. papaverdcea^ the poppy- flowered, A. R. C. ic. B. C. 547, 
bdnksia, the common, B.M.I 154. 

rosea, the rose-coloured. 

These are frame plants, and will even bear our ordinary 
winters in the open air if sheltered by a wall or by a wicker 
cap ; but the true way to have them flower in perfection is 
to plant them in the front of a conservatory, where they 
will make a fine show in spring. They also make a fine 
appearance trained on a south wall or any warm part of a 
house along with the Rosa semper flor ens. They grow in 
any rich light soil, and are propagated by ripened cuttings, 
in the shade, and without cover. 

Atrage^ne capensis, Cape Atragene, B. M. 716^ a shrub 
of no great beauty, introduced from the Cape of Good 



236 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Hope in 1795^ and flowering in March and April. It grows 
in loam and peat, and is generally increased by seeds. 

Clema^tis, calycina, Minorca Virgin's-bower, B. M. 959, 
a climbing shrub introduced in 1783 from Minorca, and 
flowering in February and March. 

C. aristata, awned-antliered Virgin's bower, B. R. 238, 
B. C. 620, a climbing shrub introduced from New Holland 
in 1812, and flowering in May, June, and July. 

C. brachidta, armed Virgin's-bower, B. R. 97, a climb- 
ing shrub from the Cape of Good Hope, which flowers from^ 
October to the end of the year. 

C. Massoni, Masson's Virgin's-bower, a climbing shrub 
introduced by Mr. Masson from the Cape. 

These climbers are all rapid growers, and will soon over- 
run a green-house if not kept under by the knife, or, what 
is better, confining their roots to pots. They grow in sandy 
loam or indeed in any soil, and propagate freely by cuttings 
under a glass cover. 

Knowlto^nia ngida, thick-leaved Knowltonia, a pe- 
rennial herbaceous plant, introduced from the Cape of Good 
Hope in 1780, and flowering in March and May. 

K. vesicatdria, blistering Knowltonia, B. M. 775, a pe- 
rennial introduced from the Cape in 1691, and which 
flowers in February and April. 

These are plants of no beauty, but free growlers in loam 
and leaf-mould, and they are propagated like other herba- 
ceous plants by dividing the root. They also ripen seeds. 

DILLENIAXEtE. 

Hibbe'rtia voluhilis, twining Hibbertia, A. R. 126, 
B. M. 449, a twining shrub introduced from New South 
Wales in 1790, and flowering from May to October. 

H. cjrossularicefdlia, gooseberry-leaved Hibbertia, B. M. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



237 



1218, a New Holland shrub introduced in 1803, and flower- 
ing from March to August. 

These plants grow vigorously in loam and peat or leaf- 
mould with a little coarse sand, and cuttings root in sandy 
loam under a hand-glass. 

MAGNOLIA^CEiE. 

Illi^cium floriddnum, red-flowered Aniseed tree, B. C. 
209, B. M. 439, a frame shrub, introduced from Florida 
in 1766, and floAvering in April, May, and June. 

I. parvifldrum, yellow-flowered Aniseed tree, a frame 
shrub, introduced from Florida in 1790, and flowering in 
May and June. 

These are handsome evergreens, of easy culture in light 
loamy soil, and with the protection of glass during winter 
covered with mats. They do better and flower freely, how- 
ever, in the green-house or conservatory. They are com- 
monly increased by layers, but will also grow by cuttings, 
planted in sand under a glass. 

Magno^lia conspicua, Youlan Magnolia, B. M. 1621, a 
frame tree, introduced from China in 1789, and flowering 
from February to April. 

M. obovcita, purple Magnolia, B. M. 390, a frame tree, in- 
troduced fromChina in 1790, and flowering from May to July. 

M. tomentosa, slender Magnolia, a frame tree, introduced 
from China in 1794, and flowering from March to May. 

yi. pumila, dwarf Magnolia, B. M. 977, a green-house 
tree, introduced from China in 1786, and flowering all the 
year. 

M. fuscata, brown-stalked Magnolia, B. M. 1008, a 
green-house tree, introduced from China in 1789, and 
flowering in April and May. 

M. annoncBfolia, small-flowered Magnoha, a green-house 
tree, introduced from China in 1804, and flowering in April 
and May. 



238 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



This is a noble genus of plants ; and though the most 
magnificent species, as M. grandi/idra, glauca, auricuiata, 
&c., are hardy trees, yet those kept in the frame and green- 
house have fine large white flowers. The soil best suited 
for the Magnolia is loam and peat with a little sand. The 
species are generally propagated by laying or by inarching 
the more rare on the more abundant kinds. Thus the 
green-house and frame sorts are often grafted on M. purpu- 
Tea and ohovata. Some of the slender-wooded species, as 
M. pumila and fuscata, will root from ripe cuttings in sand 
under a glass. 

MENISPE^RMAXEiE. 

ScHisA^NDRA coccmea, scarlet-flowered Schisandra, B. M. 
1413, a green-house shrub, a climber, introduced from 
North America in 1806. and flowering in June and July. 

This is a showy plant, which grows freely in sandy loam, 
with a little peat or leaf-mould. It may be increased by 
layers or ripened cuttings, planted in sand under a glass. 

CissA^MPELOs capensis, Cape Cissampelos, a green-house 
tree, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1775. It 
is a plant of little beauty, but of easy culture, and propa- 
gated by cuttings in loamy soil. 

BERBERrDEiE. 

Nandina domestica, B. M. 1109, grows in loam and 
peat, and young cuttings root in sand under a bell-glass. 

CRUCFFERtE. 

Fberis semperfldrens, broad-leaved Candy-tuft, an ever- 
green undershrub, introduced from Sicily in 1679, and 
flowering in white umbels all the year. 

1. gibraltdrka, Gibraltar Candy-tuft, B. M. 124, an 
evergreen under shrub, introduced from Spain in 1732, and 
flowering in May and June. 

I. cilidta, ciliate-leaved Candy-tuft, B. M. 1030, an evern 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 239 



green frame perennial, introduced from Caucasus in 1802, 
and flowering in June and July. 

These are ornamental little plants, and valuable as ever- 
greens : they thrive in any light soil or brick rubbish, and 
are readily increased by cuttings in the same soil, and under 
a hand-glass. 

Cra^mbe fniticosa, Madeira Colewort, a low spongy 
undershrub, introduced from Madeira in 1777, and flower- 
ing from May to November. 

C. strigosa, Canary Colewort, a low spongy undershrub, 
introduced from the Canaries in 1779, and flowering in May 
and June. 

These are plants of no beauty.. They grow in sandy soil, 
and may be raised from seeds or by cuttings under a glass in 
the same soil. 

BiscuTE^LLA sempervvrens, downy-leaved Buckler Mus 
tard, a low frame shrub, introduced from Spain in 1784, of 
no beauty whatever, but easily increased by seeds or cuttings 
in any sandy soil ; it flowers in May and June. 

Yk'lla Pseudo-Cy^tisus, shrubby Cress Rocket, a low 
spongy frame shrub, introduced from Spain in 1759, and 
flowering in April and May. It grows in any dry rubbish, 
or limy soil, and is readily increased by cuttings or seeds. 

LEpf DiuM divaricdtum, close-spiked Pepperwort, a low 
shrub, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1774> 
and flowering from May to August. 

L. Cardamines, Spanish Cress, a frame biennial, intro- 
duced from Spain in 1789, and flowering in June and July. 

L. siibulcdum, awl-leaved Spanish Cress, a spongy under- 
shrub, introduced from Spain in 1739, and flowering in July 
and August. 

These are plants of no beauty whatever ; they grow in 
any light soil, and are increased by cuttings in the same soil 
or by seeds. 



240 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Alys^sum spindsiim, thorny Mudwort, a very low ever- 
green frame shrub, introduced from the south of Europe 
in 1683, and producing showy yellow flowers in July and 
August. 

Farse'tia Cheirantholdes, Stock Farsetia, an under shrub, 
with spongy wood not unlike the Wallflower, introduced 
from the Levant in 1788, and flowering in June and July. 
It grows in light soils, seeds freely, or may be increased by 
cuttings like Cheiranfhus Chelri. 

Helio'^phila incana, hoary Heliophila, a low shrub, in- 
troduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1774, and flower- 
ing from May to July. 

H. ^/i/5rm2s, awl-podded Heliophila, an annual, intro- 
duced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1786, and flowering 
in July and August. 

H. plati/szliqua, broad-podded Heliophila, an under- 
shrub, with spongy wood^ introduced from the Cape of 
Good Hope in 1774, and flowering in July and August. 

H. coronopifolia^ Buck's-horn-leaved Heliophila, a green- 
house biennial, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 
1778, and flowering in June and July. 

These, unlike most of the plants of this order, have some 
pretensions to beauty : they are easily preserved in light 
soil, and increased by seeds or cuttings. 

Carda^mine africdna, African Lady's Smock, a peren- 
nial, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1691, and 
flowering in May and June. It grows in light soil, as loam 
and leaf-mould, and is increased by dividing at the root, or 
by slips or cuttings in the same soil. 

SisY^MBRiuM millefdlium, Milfoiled-leaved Sisy^mbrium, 
a low spongy-wooded green -house shrub, of no beauty, 
introduced from the Canaries in 1779, and flowering from 
May to September. It grows in sandy loam, and is easily 
increased by seeds or cuttings. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 241 



NoTO^CERAS canariensis, an annual, introduced from the 
Canaries in 1779, and flowering in August and September. 
It grows in light soil, and is increased by cuttings. 

Cheira^nthus strictus, upright Wallflower, a spongy- 
wooded undershrub, introduced from the Cape of Good 
Hope in 1802, and flowering in July. 

C. onutahilis, changeable Wallflower, B. M. 195, also a 
low shrub, with soft herbaceous-like branches, which was 
introduced from Madeira in 1777, and flowers from March 
to May. It is esteemed in collections for its early flowers, 
and hardy nature as to soil. 

C. longifdliuSy long-leaved Wallflower, a low herba- 
ceous-like shrub, introduced from Madeira in 1815, and 
flowering from September to January. 

C. frufescens, entire-leaved Wallflower, a low shrub, in- 
troduced from Teneriffe in 1815, and flowering in March, 
and till June or July. 

C. scoparius, crowded-branched Wallflower, B. R. 219, 
a low shrub, introduced from Teneriffe in 1815, and flower- 
ing from March to August. 

C. linifdlius, flax-leaved Wallflower, a low green -house 
shrub, introduced from Spain in 1815, and flowering from 
March to August. 

C. semperfldrens, ever-blowung Wallflower, a low shrub, 
introduced from Barbary in 1815, and flowering all the year. 
It is a very desirable accession to a green-house, where 
neither heaths nor camellias are introduced. 

C. silenifdlius, Catchfly-leaved Wallflower, a low green- 
house shrub, by some considered only a variety of the last, 
which flowers all the year. 

C. tenuifolius, fine-leaved Wallflower, a low shrub, intro- 
duced from Madeira in 1777, and flowering in May and 
June. 

All these plants grow readily in any light soil^^ and are as 

R 



242 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



easily increased by cuttings as the common wallflower ; to 
which none of them can be considered as anything like 
equal in beauty or fragrance. 

Mathio^la fenestrdlis, Window Stock, a biennial plant, 
a free flowerer in July and August, and known since 1759. 

M. odorathsimaj Persian Stock, B. M. 1711, a low 
spongy shrub, a native of Persia, introduced in 1797, and 
flowering in May, June, and July. 

M. tnstis, dark-flowered Stock, B. M. 729, a low spongy 
shrub, introduced from the South of Europe in 1768, and 
flowering from May to July. 

These plants are of easy culture in any light soil, and in- 
crease rapidly by seeds or cuttings. 

SiNA^pis fruUscens, shrubby Mustard, a low spongy- 
wooded shrub, a native of Madeira, introduced in 1777, 
and flowering from December to June. It is a plant of no 
beauty, but of the easiest culture in hght soil, and propa- 
gated by seeds or cuttings. 

RESEDA^CE^. 

Re'seda ^/azVca, glaucous Reseda, a perennial, introduced 
from the South of Europe in 1700, and flowering in May 
and July. 

R. dipetala, flax-leaved Reseda, a biennial, a native of 
the Cape of Good Hope, introduced in 1774, and flowering 
in August. 

R. scoparia, broom-like Rdseda, a low spongy shrub, in- 
troduced from Teneriffe in 1815, and flowering in the green- 
house in August and September. . 

R. fruticuldsa, shrubby R6seda, a low herbaceous-like 
shrubs a native of Spain, introduced in 1794, and flowering 
in September. 

K. hipinnatay bipinnate4eaved Reseda, a low herbaceous- 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 243 



looking shrub, introduced from Spain in 1816, and flower- 
ing from June to August. 

Re'seda odoriita, var. fndescens, the tree Mignonette, 
B. R. 227^ an odoriferous ornamental plant already treated of 
in Part I. 

With the exception of the last, there are none of these 
plants worth culture : they all grow readily in light soil, and 
are increased with ease by seeds and cuttings. 

PASSIFLO^RE^. 

Passfflo^ra adiantifolia, Adiantum-leaved Passion- 
flower, B. R. 232, a shrubby creeper, introduced from Nor- 
folk Island in 1792, and flowering from June to August. 

P. incarnata, Rose-coloured Passion-flower, a shrubby 
climber, introduced from South America in 1629, and 
flowering in July and August. 

P. incarnata major, large Rose-coloured Passion-flower, 
B. R. 152, a variety of the last species introduced from 
Brazil. 

P. ccErulea racemdsa, Milne's hybrid Passion-flower, a 
beautiful hybrid (originated at the Fulham Nursery) be- 
tween P. ccerulea and P. raccmdsa, the first a hardy, and the 
other a stove species. 

P. edulis, eatable Passion-flower, B. M. 1989, a climbing 
shrub, introduced from the West Indies many years ago, 
and flowering in July and August. 

All these plants prefer a loamy soil;, and are readily in- 
creased by layers. They will also grow, but less easily, by 
cuttings. They are much esteem.ed as green-house climbers, 
especially Milne's hybrid, which in a stove will flower the 
greater part of the year. 



112 



244 THE GREEiS-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



VIOLARIE^. 

Vi^OLA arborescens, shrubby Violet, an undershrub, in- 
troduced from Spain in 1799, and flowering in April and 
May. It is a plant of little beauty, but of easy culture in 
rich light soil, and propagation by cuttings in sandy loam 
under a glass. 

loNi^DiuM polygalcefdliwn^ whirl-leaved lonidium, a pe- 
rennial, introduced from South America in 1797, and flower- 
ing in April and May. It grows in light loam, and is 
increased by dividing at the roots or by cuttings. 

cisxraE^. 

CrsTus villdsus, villous Rock-rose, a low frame-shrub, 
introduced from the South of Europe in 1640, and flower 
ing in June and July. 

C. vagindfus, oblong-leaved Rock-rose, B. R. 225, a low 
frame-shrub, introduced from TenerifFe in 1779, and flower- 
ing in Aprils May and June. 

C. Ledon, many-flowered Gum-cistus, or Rock-rose, a 
low frame-shrub, introduced from the South of France in 
1730, and flowering in July and August. It is a most de- 
sirable plant, where there is abundance of room, on account 
of the profusion of large w^hite flowers, with dark spots on 
the petals, with which it is covered for six weeks together. 

C. ladamferus, single-flowered Gum-cistus or Rock-rose, 
B. M. 112. It is a low frame-shrub, introduced from Spain 
in 1629, and flowering in June and July. It bears a con- 
siderable resemblance to the last in its flowers, but has nar- 
rower leaves, from which a sort of gummy resin continually 
exudes. There is, a variety C. /. planifolms, the flat-leaved 
Gum Rock-rose, 

C. monspeliensis, Montpelier Rock-rose, a low frame- 
shrub, introduced from the South of Europe in 1656, and 
flowering in June and July. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 245 



CTsTus Idxiis, waved-leaved Rock-rose, a low frame- 
shrub, introduced from Spain in 1656, and flowering in 
June and July. 

C. hirsiitiis, hairy Rock-rose, a low frame-shrub, intro- 
duced from Portugal in 165G, and flowering in June and 
July. 

C. salvifdliiis, sage-leaved Rock-rose, a low frame-shrub, 
introduced from the South of Europe in 1548, and flower- 
ing in June and July. 

C. heferoj)hy^llus, various-leaved Rock-rose, a low frame- 
shrub, a native of Algiers, and flowering in June and July. 

C. incanus, hoary-leaved Rock-rose, B. M. 43, a frame- 
shrub, introduced from the South of Europe in 1596, and 
flowerino; from June to Auoust. 

C. creticus, Cretan Rock-rose, a low frame-shrub, long 
since introduced, and flowering in May and June. 

C. dlbidus, white-leaved Rock -rose, a low frame-shrub, 
a native of Spain, introduced in 1640, and flowering in 
June and July. 

C. crispus, curled-leaved Cistus^ a low frame-shrub, in- 
troduced from Portugal in 1656, and flowering in June and, 
July. 

Most of these are beautiful shrubs with showy, transient, 
delicate flowers. Some keep them in the open air, and 
cover them with mats or straw during winter ; but to have 
them flower freely they must have the protection of glass, 
and unless they flower freely, of what use is keeping them 
just within the verge of existence ? 

Helia^nthemum formosum, beautiful Sun-rose, B. M. 
264, a low frame-shrub, a native of Portugal, introduced in 
1786, and flowering in May and June. 

H. atriplicifdlium, grache-leaved Sun-rose, a low frame- 
shrub, a native of Spain, introduced in 1656, and flowering 
in June and July. 



246 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Helta^nthemum halimifolium, sea purslane-leaved Sun 
rose, a low frame-shrub, introduced from Spain in 1656, 
and flowering in June and July. 

H. elongatum, long-peduncled Sun-rose, a low frame 
shrub, introduced from Spain in 1800, and flowering in 
July. 

H. algarvense, Algarvian Sun-rose, B.M* 627, a low 
frame-shrubj a native of Portugal, introduced in 1800, and 
flowering in July and August. 

H. libandtis, rosemary-leaved Sun-rose, a low frame- 
shrub, a native of Spain, introduced in 1752, and flowering 
in June. 

H. iimbeUdtum, umbel-flowered Sun-rose, a low frame- 
shrub, introduced from the south of Europe in 1731, and 
flowering from June to August. 

H. Icevtpes, cluster-leaved Sun-rose, B.M. 1782, a low 
frame-shrub, introduced from the south of France in 1690, 
and flowering from June to August. 

H. Fiimana, heath-leaved Sun-rose, a low frame-shrub, 
from the South of France in 1752, and which flowers in 
June and July. 

H. cdnuniy hoary Sun- rose, a native of the South of 
Europe, and a low shrub like all the rest of the species : it 
was introduced in 1772. 

H. scabrdsum, rough Sun-rose, a low frame-shrub, a 
native of Italy, introduced in 1755, and flowering from June 
to August. 

H. itdlicum, Italian Sun-rose, a low frame-shrub, a native 
of Italy, introduced in 1779, and flowering from July to 
September. 

H. origanifdliim, marjoram-leaved Sun-rose, alow frame- 
sbrub, a native of Spain, introduced in 1795, and flowering 
in June and July. 

H. Tuberdria, plantain-leaved Sun-rose, a frame pe- 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE, 247 



rennial, introduced from the South of Europe in 1752, and 
flowering in June and July. 

Helia^nthemum canariense, Canary Sun-rose, si low 
green-house shrub, introduced from the Canaries in 1790, 
and flowering in June and July, 

H. glutindsum, clammy Sun-rose, a low frame-shrub, a 
native of the South of Europe, introduced in 1790, and 
flowering from May to September. 

These plants are of the easiest culture, and the H. 
formdsum and a few other species look well when in flower. 
The flower has this peculiarity, that it only opens during 
clear sunshine^, and therefore in our climate it often opens 
and shuts many times a day. The soil which suits them 
best is a sandy loam with a little peat or leaf-mould : most 
of them ripen seeds, from which, or from ripened cuttings 
under a hand-glass, they may be readily increased. 

DROSERAXE^. 
DiON^A, muscipula. Venus fly-trap. 

LI'NEiE. 

Li'num trigy^num, three-styled Flax, B. M. 1100, an 
evergreen undershrub of very humble growth, introduced 
from the East Indies in 1799, and producing large yellow 
flowers from November to January. 

L. narbonense, Narbonne Flax, B. C. 190, a frame pe- 
rennial, a native of France, introduced in 1759, and flower- 
ing with little beauty in July and August. 

L. sifffniticdsum, Spanish Flax, an undershrub of humble 
growth, but evergreen ; a native of Spain, introduced in 
1759^ and flowering in August. 

L. arbdreum, Tree Flax, B.M. 234, a low single-stemmed 
shrub, a native of Candia, introduced in 1788, and flowering 
from May to August. 

L. a/ricdnumf African Flax, B.M. 403, a low shrub, semi- 



248 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



evergreen, a native of the Cape of Good Hope, introduced 
in 1771, and flowering in June and July. 

Li'num quadrifolium, four-leaved Flax, B. M. 431, an 
evergreen undershrub, a native of the Cape of Good Hope, 
introduced in 1787, and flowering in May and June. 

These plants are of no beauty, though the first species, 
L. trigy^num is of value as furnishing bloom in mid- 
winter : they all grow readily in loam and peat with a little 
sand or rotten tan intermixed, and cuttings root readily in 
sandy loam under a hand-glass. Mr. Sweet remarks in his 
excellent manual (The Botanical Cultivator) that L. 
trigy^num is in general much infested with red spiders, but 
that sprinkling a little flower of sulphur now and then will 
subdue them. 

TREMA'NDRE^. 

Tetratheca juncea, grows in loam and peat, and is in- 
creased by young cuttings in sand under a bell-glass. 

CARYOPHY^LLE^. 

DiA^NTHus japonicus, Japanese Pink, an evergreen frame 
perennial, a native of China, introduced in 1804, and 
flowering from June to October. 

D. caroUnidnus, Carolina Pink, a frame perennial, a 
native of North America, introduced in 1811, and flower- 
ing from June to September. 

D. crendtus, long-cupped Pink, B.R. 256, an evergreen, 
green-house perennial, a native of the Cape of Good Hope, 
introduced in 1817, and flowering in August. 

D. arbdreus, shrubby Pink, B.C. 459, an evergreen green- 
house undershrub, a native of Greece, introduced in 1815, 
and flowering from June to September. 

This genus of plants are of less value in the green-house 
than the hardy sorts are in the open air, where their glaucous 
and perpetual green affords a fine clothing for patches and 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 249 



borders in the winter season. D. arbor eus, however^ is a 
handsome plant when neatly supported by a prop. All of 
the species grow in any light rich soil, and are propagated 
by cuttings or pipings like the common pink. 

SiLE^NE fruticdsa, shrubby Catchfly, a frame undershrub, 
a native of Sicily, introduced in 1629^ and flowering in June 
and July. 

S. gigdntea, gigantic Catchfly, a green-house biennial, a 
native of Africa, introduced in 1738, and flowering in June 
and July. 

S. crassifolia, thick-leaved Catchfly, a green-house 
biennial, a native of the Cape of Good Hope, introduced in 
1774, and flowering in July and August. 

S. orndfa, dark-coloured Catchfly, B. M. 382, a green- 
house biennial, a native of the Cape of Good Hope, intro- 
duced in 1775, and flowering from May to September. 

S. imcZiJafa, wave-leaved Catchfly, a green-house biennial 
a native of the Cape of Good Hope, introduced in 1755, 
and flowering in August. 

S. cBgyptidca, Egyptian Catchfly, a green-house bien- 
nial, a native of Egypt, introduced in 1800, and flowering 
in July and August. 

These plants, which are undeserving of culture, excepting 
as forming part of a botanical collection, thrive well in rich 
light soil, and cuttings root as readily as those of the com- 
mon pink or sweet-william. 

Arena^ria 2^'^oct(mbens, procumbent Sandwort, a peren- 
nial, introduced from Egypt in 1801, and flowering in July 
and August. It is a plant of no beauty, but easily culti- 
vated in sandy loam and increased by seeds or cuttings. 

Ly^chnis corondfa, Chinese Lychnis, B.M. 223, a green- 
house perennial, a native of China, introduced in 1774, and 
flowering from June to September. It grows in sandy loam, 
and is increased by cuttings like Didnthus, 



250 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



• Pharna^ceum lineare, linear-leaved Pharnaceum, B. R. 
326, a green-house undershrub, introduced from the Cape 
of Good Hope in 1795^ and flowering in May and June. 

P. incdnum, hoary Pharnaceum, B. M. 1883, a green- 
house undershrub, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope 
in 1782, and flowering from May to October. 

P. dichotomum^ forked Pharnaceum, a green-house 
annual, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1783, 
and flowering in July. 

This is a genus of no beauty whatever : it is easily cul- 
tivated in loam and peat^ the plants being placed pretty 
near the light ; and propagation is effected by cuttings under 
a hand-glass in sandy loam. 

MALVA^CE^. 

Si^DA carpinifolia, hornbeam-leaved Sida, a green-house 
shrub, introduced from the Canaries in 1774, and flowering 
from July to September. 

S. Sonneratiana, Sonnerat's Sida, a green-house biennial, 
introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1806, and 
flowering in June and July. 

S. cresta, crested Sida, B. M, 330, an annual from 
Mexico, introduced in 1720, and flowering in June and July. 

S. Dillenidna^ Dillenius's Sida, an annual from Mexico, 
introduced in 1725, and flowering from July to November. 

S. triloba, three-lobed Sida, a biennial from the Cape of 
Good Hope, introduced in 1794, and flowering from July 
to September. 

These plants are of no beauty, but of the easiest culture 
in any light soil, and they ripen abundance of seeds, from 
which or from cuttings they may be increased at pleasure. 

Ma^lva jpolystachia, many-spiked Mallow, a spongy- 
wooded green-house shrub from Peru, introduced in 1798, 
and flowering in July and August.. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 251 



Ma^lva calycina, a large-calyxed Mallow, B. R. 297, a 
shrub from the Cape of Good Hope^ introduced in 1812, 
and flowering from May to August. 

M. angusfifdlia, narrow-leaved Mallow, a green -house 
shrub, introduced from Mexico in 1780, and flowering in 
August. 

M. bryonifolia, bryony-leaved Mallow, a shrub from the 
Cape of Good Hope in 1731, and flowering in July and 
August, 

M. asperrima, roughest Mallow, a shrub from the Cape 
of Good Hope in 1796, flowering from June to September. 

M. procumbens, procumbent Mallow^ a perennial from 
South America, introduced in 1815, and flowering from 
June to September. 

M. ahutiloides, Bahama Mallow, a shrub introduced from 
the Bahama Islands in 1725, and flowering from June to 
September. 

M. strida, upright Mallow, a shrub introduced from the 
Cape of Good Hope in 1805, and flowering from May to 
August. 

M. lacfea, panicled white Mallow, a shrub introduced 
from Mexico in 1780, and valuable for its early blossoms in 
January and February. 

M. operculata, lid-capsuled Mallow, a shrub introduced 
from Peru in 1795, and flowering in July and August. 

M. frdgrans, fragrant Mallow, B. R. 296, a shrub intro- 
duced from the Cape in 1759, and flowering from May to July. 

M. capensis, Cape Mallow, B. R. 295, a shrub intro- 
duced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1713, and valued 
on account of its flowers, which appear on the plant every 
month in the year. 

M. balsdmica, balsamic Mallow, a shrub introduced from 
the Cape of Good Hope in 1800, and flowering from May 
to September. 

M. grossularifolia, gooseberry-leaved Mallow, B. R. 561, 



252 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



a shrub introduced from the Cape in 1732, and flow- 
ering from May to September. 

Ma^lva virgdta, twiggy Mallow, a shrub introduced from 
the Cape of Good Hope in 1727, and flowering from May to 
July. 

M. minidtaf painted Mallow, a shrub introduced from 
South America in 1798, and flowering from May to July. 

M. retusa, blunt-leaved Mallow, a shrub from the Cape 
of Good Hope, introduced in 1803, and flowering from 
March to May. 

M. tridactyloides, reflex-flowered Mallow, A. R. 135, a 
shrub introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1791, 
and flowering from June to August. 

M. divaricdta, straddling Mallow, A. R. 182, a green-r 
house shrub, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 
1792, and flowering from June to September. 

M. prostrctfa, trailing Mallow, a shrub introduced from 
the Brazils in 1806, and flowering from June to August. 

M. elegaiis, elegant Mallow, a shrub introduced from the 
Cape of Good Hope in 1791, and flowering from May to 
August. 

Some of these plants, especially M. strzcta, capensis, and 
grossularifdlia, are free flowerers, and well deserve a place 
where there is room. They are all of the easiest culture in 
any light soil ; they generally ripen abundance of seeds, 
and may be increased by that means or by cuttings. 

Layate^ra micans, glittering Lavatera, a spongy-wooded 
green- house shrub, introduced from Spain in 1796, and 
flowering in June and July. 

L. O^lhia, doAvny-leaved Lavatera, a shrub from the South 
of France, introduced in 1570, and flowering from June to 
October. 

L. unguiculdta^ clawed Lavatera, a shrub first brought 
into notice in 1807, and flowering from July to Sep^ 
tember. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



253 



Lavate^ra Mspida, hispid Lavatera, a shrub introduced 
from Algiers in 1804^ and flowering in June and July. 

L. triloba, three-lobed Lavatera, B. M. 2226, a shrub in- 
troduced from Spain in 1759, and flowering in June and July. 

L. lusitdnica, Portugal Lavatera, a shrub introduced from 
Portugal in 1731, and flowering in August and September. 

L. maritima, sea-side Lavatera, a tree-like shrub, intro- 
duced from the South of Europe in 1597, and flov,'ering 
from April to June. 

The last species is an old inmate of the green-house, and 
valued for its showy red flowers : but most of them require 
too much room and larger pots than correspond well with a 
select stock of plants. They grow very freely in any light 
rich soil, and ripen plenty of seeds^ from which^ or from 
ripened cuttings in sand under a bell or hand-glass, they 
may be readily propagated. 

Ma'^lope malacoldes, Barbary Malope, a biennial^ a na- 
tive of Barbary, introduced in 1710^ and flowering in June 
and July. It grows in sandy loam, and is increased by 
seeds or cuttings. 

Ure^na lohdta, angular-leaved Urena, a shrub from 
China, introduced in 1731, and flowering in June and July. 
It grows in loamy soil, and may be increased by cuttings. 
It is, however, of no beauty. 

Hibiscus Patersdnii, Norfolk Island Hibiscus, A. R. 286, 
a spongy-wooded shrub, introduced in 1792, and flowering 
from June to August. 

H. incanus, hoary Hibiscus, a perennial introduced from 
Carolina in 1806, and flowering in September. 

H. militdris, smooth Hibiscus, a perennial introduced from 
Louisiana in 1804, and flowering in August and September. 

H. cBthidpicus, dwarf wedge-leaved Hibiscus, a green- 
house shrub, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 
1774, and flowering in August. 



254 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



HiBi^scus acerifoliuSj maple-leaved Hibiscus^ a shrub 
introduced from China in 1798, and flowering from March 
to June. 

H. specidsus, superb Hibiscus, B. M. 360, a perennial, 
introduced from Carolina in 1778, and flowering from June 
to August. 

H. heterophy^llus, various-leaved Hibiscus, B. R. 29, a 
shrub introduced from New South Wales in 1803, and 
flowering in August and September. 

H. scaber, scabrous Hibiscus, a perennial introduced from 
Carolina in 1810, which flowers from July to September. 

H. pentacdrjjos, angular-fruited Hibiscus, a perennial 
introduced from Venice in 1752, and flowering from July to 
September. 

The green-house species of Hibiscus are of no great 
beauty, and much inferior as ornamental shrubs to the hardy 
and hot-house kinds. They are, however, of easy cul- 
ture in any rich light soil, and they often ripen seeds, from 
which, or from cuttings, in sand under a hand-glass, they 
may be abundantly increased. 

I^AYO^fiiA prcemdrsa, bitten-leaved Pavonia, B. M. 436, 
B.C. 371, a spongy-wooded shrub, introduced from the Cape 
of Good Hope in 1774, and flowering from June to August. 
A plant of no beauty, but of easy culture in rich light soil: 
ripening abundance of seeds, from which or from cuttings in 
sand under a hand-glass, it may be readily propagated. 

TERNSTRCEMIAXE^. 

GoRDO^NiA Lasianthus, smooth Gordonia, B. M. 668, a 
shrub, a native of North America, introduced in 1739, and 
flowering from August to November. 

G. pubescens, a frame shrub, a native of Carolina, intro- 
duced in 1774, and flowering from August to September. 

These are very hardy plants, and will sometimes bear the 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 255 



tvinter in the open air, but they never flower well unless in 
the green -house. They are very ornaniental when in flower, 
and valuable as continuing in blossom till the end of No- 
vember. The soil they affect is loam and leaf-mould, and 
they are increased by cuttings, which^ as in the case of 
most of this order of plants, should be ripened before being 
taken off", and then planted in sand under a glass. 

BYTTNERIA^CE^. 

Stercu^lia platanifolia, a tree introduced from China in 
1757, and flowering in July. It is of little beauty as a 
green-house plant, but of easy culture in rich loam, and it 
is readily increased by ripened cuttings under a hand-glass. 

Lasiope'talum, Thomasia, grow in sandy loam and a 
little leaf-mould, and ripened cuttings root readily in sandy 
loam, under a hand-glass. 

Mahe'ri^ia pinnata, wing-leaved Mahernia, B.M. 277, 
an undershrub introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 
1752, and flowering from June to August. 

M. diffusa, procumbent Mahernia, B. C. 187, an under- 
shrub introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1774, and 
flowering from June to August. 

M. incisa, cut-leaved Mahernia, B. M. 353, an under ^ 
shrub introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1792, 
and flowering from July to September. 

M. pulchella, neat Mahernia, an undershrub, introduced 
from the Cape of Good Hope in 1792, and flowering from 
July to August. 

M. glabrata, sweet-scented Mahernia, A. R. 85, an un- 
dershrub introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1789, 
and flowering in April and May. 

M. grandifldra, large-flowered Mahernia, B. R. 224^ an 
undershrub introduced from China in 1791, and flowering 
from May to August, 



256 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



These plants are free flowerers, not of bulky or straggling 
forms, and of very easy culture ; but all their flowers are 
yellow. They come in, excepting M. glabrata, at a season 
when there are abundance of other plants in flower. The 
two last species are the most appropriate, the first of them 
as odoriferous, and the other as showy. Loam and leaf- 
mould, or loam-peat, and a little sand, will grow them 
freely. Cuttings in young wood root under a bell-glass. 

Herma^nnia althmfdlia, alth^a-leaved Hermannia, B. M. 
307, an undershrub introduced from the Cape of Good 
Hope in 1728, and flowering from March to July. 

H. plicdta, plaited-leaved Hermannia, an undershrub in- 
troduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1774, and flower- 
ing in November and December. 

H. cdndicans, white Hermannia, an undershrub intro- 
duced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1774, and flowering 
from April to June. 

H. dzsficlia, round-leaved Hermannia, an undershrub 
introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1789, and 
flowering from May to August. 

H. salv) folia, sage-leaved Hermannia, an undershrub in- 
troduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1795, and flow- 
ering from April to June. 

H. mlcans, glittering Hermannia, an under-shrub, in- 
troduced from China in 1790, and flowering from May to 
August. 

H. involiicrdia, involucred Hermannia^ an undershrub, in- 
troduced from China in 1794, and flowering in May and July. 

H. scordifdlia, germander-leaved Hermannia, a low shrub, 
introduced from China in 1794, and flowering from April 
to November. This species and H. odordta are esteemed 
the most desirable for select collections ; the one as in bloom 
most part of the year, and the other as equally long in bloom 
and odoriferous. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 257 



Herma^nnia odorata^ sweet-scented Hermannia, an un- 
dershrub, introduced from China in 1780, and flowering 
from February to October. 

H. mollis, soft-leaved Hermannia, an undershrub, intro- 
duced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1814, and flowering 
in May and June. 

H. denudata, smooth Hermannia, an undershrub, intro- 
duced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1774, and flowering 
from May to July. 

H. disermisfdlia, simple-flowered Hermannia, an under- 
shrub, introduced from the Cape of Good Hppe in 1795, and 
flowering in March and April. 

H. alnifdlia, alder-leaved Hermannia, B. M. 299, an 
undershrub, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 
1728, and flowering from February to May. 

H. cuneifolia, wedge-leaved Hermannia, an undershrub, 
introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1791, and 
flowering in August and September. 

H. holosericea, velvet-leaved Hermannia, an undershrub, 
introduced from China in 1792, and flowering in May and 
June. 

H. hirsuta, hairy-branched Hermannia, an undershrub, 
introduced from China in 1790, and flowering in May and 
June. 

H. scabra, rough-leaved Hermannia, an undershrub, in- 
troduced from China in 1789, and flowering in March and 
April. 

H. multiflora, many-flowered Hermannia, an undershrub, 
introduced from China in 1791, and flowering from March 
to May. 

H.Jidmmeay flame-flowered Hermannia, B. M. 1349, an 
undershrub, introduced from China in 1794, and flowering 
all the year. This is a very desirable species, but is rather 
less hardy and not such a free flowerer as H. scordifolia. 

S 



258 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Herma^nnia angularis, angular Hermannia, an under- 
shrub, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1791, 
and flowering in April and May. 

H. hyssopifdlia, hyssop-leaved Hermannia, an under- 
shrub, introduced from China in 1725, and flowering from 
April to June. 

H. tnfuTcata, three-forked Hermannia, an undershrub, 
introduced from China in 1789, and flowering from April to 
July. 

H. lavandulifoliay lavender-leaved Hermannia, B. M. 
304, an undershrub, introduced from China in 1732, and 
flowering from May to September. 

H. filifdlia, thread leaved Hermannia, an undershrub, 
a native of the Cape of Good Hope, introduced in 1816, 
and flowering from May to. August. 

H. frifolidta, three-leaved Hermannia, an undershrub, 
introduced from China in 1752, and flowering from May to 
August. 

H. pfocumbenSy procumbent Hermannia, an undershrub, 
introduced from China in 1792, and flowering in May and 
June. 

H. grossularifdlia, gooseberry-leaved Hermannia, an 
undershrub, introduced from China in 1731, and flower- 
ing in April and May. 

H. pulverulenta, powdered Hermannia, A. R. 161, an 
undershrub, introduced from China in 1800, and flowering 
from May to August. 

H. inclsa, cut-leaved Hermannia, an undershrub, in- 
troduced from China in 1806, and flowering in June and 
July. 

H. tenuifblia, slender-leaved Hermannia, B. M. 1348, 
an undershrub, flowering in June and July. 

These plants are free growers and most of them prolific 
in flovrers, but which unfortunately are yellovr. They grow. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 259 



in any rich light soil, and are increased by cuttings in sandy 
loam. There is great sameness and very little beauty in 
their appearance, 

TILIA^CEiE. 

Sparrma^nnia africanay African Sparrmannia^ B. M. 516, 
a tree introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1790, 
which produces white flowers of no great beauty from March 
to July. It grows freely in loam and leaf-mould, and cut- 
tings ripened a little root with facility. 

OsB-^Yfih. occidentalism elm-leaved Grewia, B. M. 422, a 
tree introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1690, and 
flowering from June to September. It is of little beauty, 
but of easy culture in loamy soil, rendered open by sand or 
a little leaf-mould. Cuttings root in the same soil, under a 
bell-glass. 

SAPINDA^CEtE. 

Sapi^npus marginatus, marginated Soap-berry, a shrub^ 
introduced from Carolina, and which has not yet flowered in 
England. 

S. rigidus^ ash-leaved Soap-berry, a shrub, introduced 
from America in 1759, and flowering from July to Sep- 
tember. 

These plants are of no beauty ; they grow in loamy soil, 
and cuttings root in sand under a hand-glass. 

PITTOSPO^REiE. 

BuRSA^RiA spinosa, thorny Bursaria, B. M. 1767, a 
shrub, introduced from New South Wales in 1793, and 
flowering from August to December. 

This is an elegant plant and free flowerer ; the flowers are 



260 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



white, and though small are very showy from their aoun- 
dance. It grows in sandy loam, with a little peat or leaf- 
mould, and cuttings root in sand covered with a bell-glass. 

BiLLARDiE^RA scdudens, climbing Appleberry, B. M. 
801, a green-house climber, introduced from New South 
Wales m 1790, and flowering from June to August. 

B. mufdbilis, changeable Appleberry, B. M. 1813, a 
green-house climber, introduced from New South Wales 
in 1795, and flowering from July to September. 

B. longifldra, blue-berried Appleberry, B. M. 1507, a 
climber from Van Dieman's Land, introduced in 1810, and 
flowering profusely from June to September. It is a very 
hardy plant, and, probably, in time may be naturalized : it 
grows rapidly, flowers freely, and is succeeded by dusky blue 
berries which remain till Christmas. 

These plants are all evergreens and climbers, of the 
easiest culture in light rich loam, and cuttings root in sand ; 
or, as all of them ripen seeds, they may be increased in that 
way. 

PiTTo^sPORUM coridceum, thick-leaved Pittosporum, A. R. 
151, and B. C. 569, a shrub, introduced from Madeira in 
1787, and flowering in May : flowers white. 

P. viridifldrum, green-flowered Pittosporum, B.M. 1684, 
a shrub, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1806, 
and flowering in May and June. 

P. Tohira, glossy-leaved Pittosporum, B. M. 1396^ a 
shrub, introduced from China in 1804, producing its white 
flowers from March to August : it is a hardy plant, and, 
being an evergreen, is desirable in either the green-house 
or conservatory. 

P. unduldtum, wave-leaved Pittosporum, B. R. 16, a 
shrub, introduced from New South Wales in 1789, and 
flowering from February to June. 

P. revolutum, downy-leaved Pittosporum, B. R. 1806, 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 261 



B. C. 506, a shrub, introduced from New South Wales in 
1795, and flowering fronti February to April. 

All these plants are evergreens, hardy, and easily culti- 
vated in sandy loam ; they are increased by laying, or by 
grafting on each other, or by cuttings of young wood planted 
in sand and covered with a bell-glass. 

HYPERlCrNEiE. 

- Hype^ricum baledricum, warted St. John's Wort, B. M. 
137, an undershrub, introduced from Majorca in 1714, and 
flowering from March to September. 

H. monogy^nurriy Chinese St. John's Wort, B. M. 334, 
an undershrub, introduced from China in 1753, and flower- 
ing from March to September. 

H. folidsuniy shining St. John's Wort, a low shrub, in- 
troduced from the Azore Islands in 1778, and flowering in 
August. 

H. floribundiinif many-flowered St. John's Wort, a low 
shrub, a native of Madeira, introduced in 1779, and flower- 
ing in August, 

H. canariense, Canary St. John's Wort, an undershrub, 
introduced from the Canaries in 1699, and flowering from 
July to September. 

H. cBgyptiacum, Egyptian St. John's Wort, B. R. 196, an 
undershrub, introduced from Egypt in 1787, and flowering 
in June and July. 

H. setdsum, unbranched St. John's Wort, a frame peren- 
nial, introduced from Carolina in 1759, and flowering in 
July and August. 

H. mutihinif small-flowered St. John's Wort, a frame 
perennial, introduced from North America, in 1759j and 
flowering from June to September. 



262 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Hype^ricum nudifldrum, naked-pahicled St. John's Wort, 
a frame undershrub, introduced from North America in 
1811, and flowering in September and October. 

H. glaiicum, glaucous St. John's Wort, a frame under- 
shrub, introduced from North America in 1812, and flower- 
ing in July and iVugust. 

H. rosmarinifdlium, rosemary-leaved St. John's Wort, a 
frame undershrub, introduced from Carolina in 1812, and 
flowering from June to August. 

H. aspalathozdes, aspalathus-like St. John's Wort, a frame 
undershrub, introduced from Carolina in 1811, and flower- 
ing from June to August. 

m. fasciculdtum, clustered St. John's Wort, a frame un- 
dershrub, introduced from North America in 1806^ and 
flowering in July. 

H. reflexum^ hanging-leaved St. John's Wort, a green- 
house undershrub, introduced from Teneriffe in 1778, and 
flowering from July to September. 

H, maculdtum, spotted St. John's Wort, a frame peren- 
nial, introduced from North America in 1789, and flower- 
ing in July and August. 

H. cnspum, curl-leaved St. John's Wort, a frame peren- 
nial, introduced from Greece in 1688, and flowering in July ' 
and August. 

H. unduldtum, wave-leaved St. John's Wort, a frame 
perennial, a native of Barbary, introduced in 1802, and 
flowering in July and August. 

H. perfolidtum, perfoliate St. John's Wort, a frame pe- 
rennial, a native of Italy, introduced in 1785, and flowering 
in May and June. 

H. heterophy^Uum, various-leaved St. John's Wort, a 
green-house undershrub, introduced from Persia in 1812, 
and flowering in July and August. 

H. cilidtum, fringe-flowered St. John's Wort, a frame 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 263 



perennial, a native of the Levant, introduced in 1739, and 
flowering in July. 

Hypb^ricum glanduldsum, glandulous St. John'^s Wort, 
a green-house undershrub, a native of Madeira, introduced 
in 1777, and flowering from May to August. 

H. tomentosum, woody St. John's Wort, a frame pe- 
rennial, a native of the South of Europe, introduced in 1648, 
and flowering from July to September. 

H. Com, heath-leaved St. John's Wort, B. M. 178, a 
green-house undershrub, introduced from the Levant in 
1640, and flowering from May to September. 

H. verticilldtumy whorl-leaved St. John's Wort, a green 
house perennial, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope 
in 1784, and flowering from June to August. 

Few of these plants are of any beauty : some of them 
flower freely, but their flowers are wholly yellow, even to the 
pistils and stamens. They are all of easy culture in light 
loam, and are increased by dividing at the root in some 
cases, by seeds in others, and in all by cuttings in sand, and 
covered with a crystal bell. 

A'scY^RUM pumilum, dwarf A'scy^um, a perennial, intro- 
duced from Georgia in 1806, and flowering from June to 
August. 

A. Crux Jtndre(E, St. Andrew's Cross A'scy^rum, a shrub, 
introduced from North America in 1759, and flowering in 
July. 

A. hypericoideSf hypericum-like A'scy^rum, an under- 
shrub from North America, introduced in 1759, and 
flowering from July to September. 

A. sfdns, large-flowered A'scy^rum, an undershrub, a na- 
tive of North America, introduced in 1806, and flowering 
from July to August. 

These plants, like the Hypericums, are of no beauty, and 
their culture and propagation are the same as for that genus. 



264 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



OCHNA^CE^. 

O'cHNA. africana, purple-flowered O'chna, a shrub, a na- 
tive of the Cape of Good Hope, introduced in 1816. It 
has not yet flowered : it grows in sandy peat and loam, and 
cuttings are rooted in the same soil under a glass. 

EL^OCA^RPE.^;. 

El^oca^rpus cyaneus, blue-fruited Elseocarpus, B. M. 
1737, a beautiful New Holland shrub, introduced in 1803, 
and flowering from June to August. It grows well in loam 
and peat with a little sand, and is increased by ripened 
cuttings in sand, and covered with a bell-glass. 

TROPiEO^LE^. 

TROPiEo^LUM minus fldrepUno, B. M. 98, double-flowered 
small Indian Cress, a hardy annual, in its double variety 
comparatively shrubby and more durable, requiring the 
protection of the green-house. 

T. mdjus fldre pleno, B. M. 23, double-flowered large 
Indian Cress, a plant of a similar character to the preced- 
ing. Both are showy inmates of the green-house as to 
their flowers, which are in perfection from June to October ; 
but their leaves and habits are so salad and kitchen-garden- 
like, that we cannot recommend them. They grow in rich 
light soil, and are increased by cuttings, care being taken 
that these do not damp off*. 

T. peregrmum, fringe-flowered Indian Cress, B. M. 1351, 
B. R. 718, an annual, from Peru, introduced in 1775, and 
flowering from June to October. 

T. pinndtum^ pinnate-flowered Indian Cress, A. R. 535, 
a perennial, flowering from June to October. 

T. hy^bridum, hybrid Indian Cress, a biennial, flowering 
from June to August. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 265 



These plants grow freely in rich light soil, and cuttings 
root readily in sand under a hand-glass. 

OXALrDE^. 

O'xALTs monophy^lla, simple-leaved Wood-sorrel, a pe- 
rennial, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1774, 
and flowering in October and November. 

O. rostrdtay beaked Wood-sorrel, a perennial, introduced 
from the Cape of Good Hope in 1795, and flowering in 
October and November. 

O. asinma, ass's-eared Wood-sorrel, a perennial, intro- 
duced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1792, and flowering 
in November and December. 

O. lancifdlia, spear-leaved Wood-sorrel, a perennial, in- 
troduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1795, and flower- 
ing in October and November. 

O. leporina, hare's-eared Wood-sorrel, a perennial^ intro- 
duced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1795, and flowering 
in October and November. 

O. crhpa, curled Wood-sorrel, a perennial, introduced 
from the Cape of Good Hope in 1793, and flowering in 
October and November. 

O. /a^^e/o/ia, bean-leaved Wood-sorrel, a perennial, in- 
troduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1794, and flower- 
ing in October and November. 

O. laburnifolia, laburnum-leaved Wood-sorrel, a peren- 
nial, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1793, 
and flowering in September and October. 

O. sangmnea, blood-leaved Wood-sorrel, a perennial, 
introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1795, and 
flowering from October to December. 

O. ambigua, ambiguous Wood-sorrel, a perennial, intro- 
duced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1790, and flowering 
from September to December. 

O. versicolor, striped-flowered Wood-sorrel, B. M. 155, 



266 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



0'xALispe72fap%^Z/a, five-leaved Wood-sorrel, B.M. 1549. 

O. fldva, narrow-leaved Wood-sorrel, B. R. 117. 

Besides the preceding there are the following species 
which to those who are curious will form a very unique 
assemblage of gay little plants. 



O'xALis unduldta.waved-leayed 
Wood- sorrel 
fifscdta, crown -spotted 
tricolor, three-coloured 
variabilis, variable 
grandifldra, great-flowered 
sulphurea, sulphur-coloured 
Jldccida, flaccid 
purpurea, purple 
speciosa, specious 
margindtay green-margined 
pulchella, beautiful 
ohtusa, blunt-leaved 
landta, woolly-leaved 
tenella, slender 
co?npressa, compressed 
sericea, silky 

violdcea, violet, B. M. 2215 
caprlna, go2iVs-fooi,B.M.2S7 
cernua, dropping 
dentdta, toothed 
livida, livid 
cilidris, ciliate-leaved 
arcudta, gland- covered 
linearis, linear- leaved 
cuneifolia, wedge-shaped 
glabra, smooth-leaved. 



O. bifida, cloven-leaved 
Jilicaulis, bilobed-leaved 
ndtans, floating 
convexula, convex-leaved 
elongdta, elongated 
reclindta, reclining 
polyphylla, many-leaved 
temiifolia, fine-leaved 
niacrosty'lis, long-styled 
hirta, hairy-stalked 
tubifldra, tube-flowered 
secunda, side-flowering 
multifidra, many-flowered 
rubella, branching red, B.M. 
1031 

rosacea, rose-coloured 
repejis, creeping-stalked 
reptdtrix, creeping-rooted 
incarndta, flesh-coloured 
perennans, perennial 
rubens, red-flowered 
pentaphy'lla, five-leaved, B. 

M. 1549. 
tomentosa, downy-leaved 
Ivpinifolia, lupin-leaved. 
pectindta, pectinated 
fl,abellifdlia, fan-leaved. 



This is a genus of pretty little plants, but possessing a 
great sameness of character; and, excepting one or two of the 
first-described species, of little interest to any but the bo- 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 267 



tanist. Their roots are, generally, bulbs, articulated, jointed, 
or granulated in a manner peculiar to this genus and one 
or two others. They grow well in sandy loam, and require 
only very small pots ; great care must be taken not to water 
them after they have done flowering. They are readily in- 
creased by small bulbs or offsets, and many of the species 
produce seeds. All those species which flower between 
June and November may be grown in the open air, in the 
following manner. The bulbs being obtained, plant in beds 
in the course of the month of April, protect with mats dur- 
ing severe weather, and every night till the end of May ; 
then all covering may be removed for the season. After 
this, one kind will come into flower after another till Octo- 
ber or November ; and as each sort finishes flowering, and 
the leaves begin to fade, take it up and place the bulbs 
(each sort by itself) in small pots of dry sand, and set them 
in a dry loft, not colder than a green-house, during winter, 
till wanted for planting in the open air next spring. Txias, 
Gladioluses, and various other green-house bulbs, may be 
treated in the same manner with complete success. (See 
Herbert's Essays in the Botanical Register and in Hort» 
Trans.) 

GERANIACE^. 

Phymata^nthus, or Pelargo^nium, tricolor, three-co- 
loured Wartflower, the Geranium hicolor of gardeners, S. G. 
43, B. M. 240, the stem sufFruticose, and erect with per- 
sistent stipules, the leaves various in form, lanceolate, some- 
times trifid, deeply toothed, and hairy : the flowers with the 
upper petals a bright scarlet, and the lower white. It is a 
native of the Cape of Good Hope, and flowers freely in 
equal parts of loam, peat and sand. 

P. eldfus, tall Wartflower, the Geranium tricolor of gar- 
deners, S. G. 96, a shrubby, branching, rugged stem, with 



268 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



lanceolate, acute, unequally-cut leaves, and fine dark red 
and white flowers marked with black, a handsome free- 
growing plant, flowering the greater part of the year. 

MoNso^NiA, or Pelargo^nium, specidsa, large-flovvered 
Monsonia, S. G. 77, B.M. 73, a suffrutescent stem with 
few branches, the leaves quinate, smooth, and leaflets 
bipinnate ; the flowers on solitary peduncles, large, yel- 
lowish white, with a tinge of red, and dark-red and black at 
the centre. It is a most beautiful plant, grows in turfy 
loam, peat and sand, and is propagated from pieces of the 
roots planted in pots, with their tops above the surface of 
the mould. 

M. pilosa, hairy Monsonia, S. G. 199, a suffruticose 
branching stem, with palmately five-parted or pinnatified 
leaves, and pale, cream-coloured flo^vers tinged with red. A 
handsome plant, which grows in loam and peat, and is in- 
creased by cuttings of the shoots or roots placed in a dry, 
airy part of the green-house. 

Jenkinso^nia, or Pelargo^nium, pendula, pendulous- 
branched Jenkinsonia, S. G. 188, a pendulous much- 
branched stem, with bipinnatified or deeply lacinate leaves, 
and pinkish-purple flowers, varied with purple lines. A free 
grower and flowerer, hardy, and very desirable for training to 
a trellis. 

J. quinata, quinate-leaved Jenkinsonia, S. G. 79, B. M. 
547, a shrubby flexuose stem, the branches covered with 
a powdery pubescence, the leaves alternate and five- 
parted, and the flowers yellowish-white marked with red. 
It is a handsome, rare, and curious plant, requiring the 
warmest part of the green-house ; it grows in loam, peat 
and sand, and is increased by cuttings in the same soil. 

J. tetragdna, square-stalked Jenkinsonia, S. G. 99, 
B. M. 136, a shrubby, succulent, much-branched stem, 
with fleshy, cordate leaves, and long-petalled red and >Yhite 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 269 



flowers. There is a variegated variety, and both require 
support or training against a wall. 

OrrDiA, or Pelargo^nium, carnosa, fleshy-stalked Otidia, 
S. G. 98, a shrubby, succulent, branching stem, with leaves 
sometimes ternate or pinnatified, and small white flowers. 
Being of a succulent nature, it requires a dry airy situation 
to keep it in good health. 

O. laxa, loose-panicled Otidia, S. G, 196, a shrubby, 
succulent stem, with smooth pinnate or pinnatified leaves, 
and white flowers marked with pale blue. Introduced 
in 1821 from the Cape of Good Hope, and grows in loam, 
peat and sand, with the pots well drained. 

IsoPE^TALUM, or Pelargo^nium, Cofyleddnis, hollyhock- 
leaved Isopetalum, S. G. 126, a succulent, thick, shrubby 
branching stem, with peltate, cordate, veined-rugose leaves, 
and fine white flowers. It requires the same treatment as 
the tuberous Pelargdnece. 

Campy^lta, or Pelargo^nium, carinata, keeled-stipuled 
Campy^lia, S. G. 21 and 43, a sufFruticose stem, requiring 
support, with oval smooth-toothed leaves, and flowers pale 
below and very dark in the upper petals. The plant rather 
tender. 

C. holosericea, silky-leaved Campy^lia, S. G. 75, a 
shrubby, erect, rugged stem, leaves roundly ovate, obtuse and 
very downy, and the flowers pale and dark red and black. 
It is a new hybrid, and one of the easiest managed of the 
genus. Though its anthers are always without pollen, yet 
it may set freely if set with the pollen of any of the same 
tribe, and hence an endless source of new sorts. 

C. blattdria, downy-leaved Campy^lia, S. G. 88, a shrubby 
branching stem, with roundly oval plaited leaves, and purple 
and white flowers. It flowers from an early period in spring, 
and continues in bloom till late in autumn. 

C. ccinaf a shrubby, erect, branching stem, with roundly- 



270 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



ovate obtuse leaves^ and pale red flowers. One of the largest- 
flowered species of the genus. 

Campy^lia verhascifldra, mullein-leaved Campy^lia, S. G. 
157, a sufFruticose stem, with roundly-oval obtuse leaves, and 
pale red flowers. A handsome hybrid of the usual cul- 
ture. 

Cico^NiuM, or Pelargo^nium, reticulatum, netted-veined 
Ciconium, S. G. 143, a shrubby stem branching but little, 
the leaves cordately uniform, obtusely five-lobed and strongly 
marked with a zone ; the flowers of a fine deep scarlet, 
veined with a darker colour. It is a hybrid from the com- 
mon horse shoe Geranium {Ciconium zonule), and probably 
C. Fothergllli, and is as hardy and prolific in flower as its 
parents. 

C. cermum, wax-flowered Cicc^nium, S. G. 176, a shrubby 
erect stem, with roundly uniform leaves, and deep red and 
paler flowers, having an airy appearance. It is of a succu- 
lent nature, and must not be over-watered : in other re- 
spects it is quite hardy, and readily strikes from cuttings 
placed in any sheltered situation. 

Ero'dium hymenddes, three-leaved Heron' s-bill, S. G. 
23, B.M. 1174, a perennial with numerous stalks covered 
with soft hairs ; the leaves opposite tern ate or deeply three- 
lobed ; the flowers of a pale red, streaked with fine red 
lines. It is a native of Barbary, and was introduced in 
1789. 

E. incarnatum, flesh-coloured Heron's-bill, S. G. 94, 
B. M. 261, a sufFruticose stem with few branches, and 
rough, dark-green, glossy, cordate leaves ; the flowers flesh- 
coloured, with a circle of deeper red and white near the 
centre* A handsome and curious plant, introduced from the 
Cape of Good Hope in 1787. 

E. crassifolium, hoary-leaved Heron's-bill, S. G. Ill, a 
suffruticose branching stem, with pinnatified or deeply-laci- 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE 271 



nated leaves, and pale purple or reddish flowers. It is a 
native of Cyprus and Barbary, and now rather rare in col- 
lections. 

DiMA^CRiA, or Pelargo^nium, sulphurea, sulphur- coloured 
Dimacria, S. G. 163, a tuberous branching root, stemless^ 
but with erect, pinnate, carrot-like leaves, and a head of 
sulphur-coloured flowers. A hybrid of free growth, which 
flowers abundantly, and ripens seeds. 

D. pinnata, wing-leaved Dimdcria, S. G. 46, B. M. 579, 
a tuberous-rooted stemless perennial, with pinnate leaves, 
and pale flowers streaked with red. It is a curious plant, 
and requires to be grown in small pots, well drained, and in 
equal parts of turfy loam, peat and sand. 

D, astragalifdlia, astragalus-leaved Dimacria, a tuberous 
root crowned with clusters of leaves, ternate or unequally 
pinnate, the flowers with long, narrow, yellowish petals, 
marked with red. A handsome plant, flowering all the 
summer, and bearing plenty of seeds. 

D. bipartita, forked-leaved Dimacria, S. G. 142, a tu- 
berous root, stemless, but crowned with spreading, pinnate, 
hairy, light-green leaves : the flowers a pale yellow or cream 
colour, marked with red. A hybrid between a species of 
this genus and one of Hdarea, a free grower and abundant 
flowerer. 

Gera^nium NepaUnse, Nepal Crane's-bill, S. G. 12, a 
herbaceous perennial, with procumbent, spreading, branchy 
stems, cordate, five-lobed leaves, and small dark red flowers. 
Introduced from Nepal in 1819. 

G. JValUchianum, Wallich's Crane's-bill, S. G. 90, a 
perennial with spreading branches, trifid reticulately-veined 
leaves, and fine deep-red striated flowers. The plant in- 
troduced from Nepal, hardy, and probably fit to stand our 
winters. 

G. pilosum, pointed-anthered Crane's-bill, S. G. 119, a 



272 THE GREEN-HOirSE CATALOGUE. 



perennial with forked stems, opposite uniform leaves, and 
small pale red flowers, marked with a circle of white at the 
base of the petals. It is a native of New Zealand, intro- 
duced in 1820, and may possibly turn out hardy enough to 
stand our winters. 

Grie^lum tenuifoliumt slender-leaved Grielum, S. G.171, 
a perennial succulent root, with bipinnatified leaves, and 
large yellow flowers. A beautiful and rare plant, rather 
difficult to preserve through the winter; it dislikes both 
moisture and heat, and prefers a dry airy part of the green- 
house, and light loose soil. At the Cape of Good Hope it 
grows in sandy or gravelly situations. 

Ho^AREA, or Pelargo^nitjm, corydaliflora, fumitory-flow- 
ered Hoarea, S. G. 18, a stemless perennial, with a tuberous 
root, surmounted by a cluster of pinnate hairy leaves, the 
flowers small and of a pale yellow colour. 

H. setdsa, bristle-pointed Hoarea, S. G. 38, a tuberous - 
rooted perennial, the tubers finger-shaped, and producing 
other small tubers ; leaves in clusters on the crowns of the 
tubers, generally much divided ; flower small, and of a 
pale red. When the roots of this plant are in a dormant 
state, they should be kept without water. 

H. atra, dark brown Hoarea, S. G. 72, a tuberous turnip- 
shaped root, with a scaly bark ; the leaves in clusters at the 
crown of the root, very variable, entire, ternate, or pinna- 
tified ; the flowers small, and of a black purple colour. It 
flowers in autumn, and is best increased by seeds. 

H. melananfha, black-flowered Hoarea, S. G. 73, a scaly, 
fusiform; tuberous root, under a crown of dark green, va- 
riable, much cut leaves ; the flowers in an umbel^ small 
and very black. It is a curious plant, and seeds freely. 

H. reticulata, netted-petalled Hoarea, S. G. 91, roots 
tuberous, like those of a turnip-radish, crowned with oblong 
elliptically-lanceolate leaves, from which proceed stems 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 273 



producing heads of small striated red and white flowers. A 
pretty little plant^ lately introduced from the Cape, and re- 
quiring attention as to watering like most other tuberous 
plants of this order. 

Ho^AREA, ovalifolia, oval-leaved Hoarea, S. G. 106, a 
tuberous root crowned with radiated leaves, widely oval, 
obtuse, and entire, with white flowers consisting of long 
narrow petals. 

H. violcBflora, white violet-flowered Hoarea, S. G. 123, 
a tuberous root, with a short stiff scaly stem, with pinnatifid 
or ternate leaves and small white flowers. 

H. elegam, elegant Hoarea, S. G, 132, a tuberous root 
with no stem, but crowned with variable pinnatifid hoary 
leaves ; the flowers small, of a deep scarlet and white. 

H. nutans, nodding-flowered Hoarea, S. G. 135, a tube- 
rous carrot-like root with carrot-like leaves and pale yellow 
flowers; one of the hardiest species of the genus and pro- 
ducing ripened seeds. 

H. dtro-sangumea, dark-crimson-coloured Hoarea, S. G. 
151, a tuberous root without a stem ; the leaves crowning the 
root in a radiate form, pinnatifid and hairy ; the flowers 
small and of a dark red colour. It is a hybrid between a 
Hoarea and Dimacria. 

H. selinifdlia, milk parsley-leaved Hoarea, S. G. 159, a 
tuberous root branching out into small tubers, the leaves pin- 
nate, very hairy, and light green, and flowers deep purple. 
A neat little mule production. 

H. varia, various-leaved Hoarea, S. G. 166, a tuberous 
root stemless with variable leaves, simple, ternate or pinna- 
tifid, and dark purple flowers. A hybrid of the usual 
culture. 

H. radicata, fleshy fringed-leaved Hoarea, S. G. 174, 

B. M. 1718, a tuberous root, stemless, with oblong elliptic 

entire hairy leaves and yellow flowers. An old inhabitant 

T 



274 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



of the green-house : kept in a warm situation it begins to 
grow about Christmas, when it should be repotted in fresh 
soil and a httle water given it ; and as it advances it must be 
watered regularly, when quite dry, but never over the leaves, 

Ho' AREA nivea, snowy-white Hoarea, S. G. 182, a tube- 
rous root without a stem ; the leaves smooth, shining, dark 
green, simple, ovate, lanceolate, slightly fringed ; the flowers 
small and of a snowy whiteness. A small plant^ but con^ 
sidered a genuine species. 

Pelargo^nium striatum, streak -flowered Stork's-bill, or 
Davey's Fairy Queen Geranium, S. G. 1, a spongy shrub, 
with streaked flowers, which appear early in spring. 

P. ignescens, fiery flowered Stork's-bill, S. G. 2, B. C. 
109, a shrubby stem, with cordate leaves and scarlet and 
black flowers in abundance during the greater part of the 
3'ear. 

P. blandum, bluish-flowered Stork's-bill, S. G. 4, a 
shrubby stem with cordate five-lobed leaves, and light flow- 
ers, appearing in succession from April to September. It is 
known in some nurseries as the Waterloo, and in others as 
the Diana Geranium. 

P. melesslnum, balm-scented Stork's-bill, S. G. 5, a 
shrubby branching stem, with deeply five lobed leaves, and 
dark red and black flowers in abundance. It is a free 
grower, and takes up but little room : its leaves when rubbed 
have the exact fragrance of common balm. 

P. VandesicB, Comtesse de Vandes' Stork's-bill, S. G. 7, 
a shrubby erect stem, not much branched but pubescent, 
with leaves palmatified and deeply divided, and light red 
flowers. It is a hybrid, raised by Sir R. Hoare. 

P. obtusildbum, blunt-lobed Stork' s-bifl, S. G. 8, a shrubby 
branching stem with deeply three-lobed leaves, and dark red 
flowers which appear abundantly. 

■ P. pannifdlium, cloth leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 9, a 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



275 



shrubby upright stem, the branches covered with soft villous 
hairs, the leaves cordate and slightly lobed, and the flowers 
white streaked with red. It is a hybrid, an abundant flow- 
erer, and continues in bloom till late in autumn. 

Pelargo^nium Mosty'ncB, Mrs. Mostyn's Stork's-bill, 
S. G. 10, a shrubby upright stem with few branches ; the 
leaves cuneiform and pubescent on both sides, and the 
flowers of a fine red. It is a very hardy plant, and an early 
flowerer. 

V. pus tuld Slim, blistered-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 11, a 
shrubby stem very much branched, the leaves deeply three- 
lobed, and the flowers small and pale. It continues flower- 
ing till late in autumn, and has a citron-like scent. 

P. monstrum, cluster-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 13, a 
shrubby thick and irregularly swollen stem, rather succulent, 
and producing many short thick branches with crowded 
leaves of a round kidney shape, and very dark green. The 
flowers are in close heads and light red, but they appear but 
seldom. 

P. cortuscefdlium, cortusa-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 14, 

shrubby succulent very rough stem, short branches, cor- 
date lobed leaves, and pale flowers. Being of a succulent 
nature it requires a sandy soil and little water. 

P. carduifdlium, cockle-shell-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 
15, a shrubby branching stem growing to a great size, with 
large rigid leaves wedge-shaped at the base, and large red 
and black flowers. It is a hardy plant and very showy. 

P. lineatunij striped-flowered Stork's-bill, S. G. 16, a 
shrubby stem much branched, the branches short and 
crowded, the leaves two-ranked, small, cordate and cuneate, 
and the flowers red and dark red. It forms a neat little 
bush, and flowers late in the autumn. 

P. multinerve, many-nerved Stork's-bill, S. G. 17, a 
shrubby upright stem not much branched, the leaves of a 

T 2 



276 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



roundish kidney-shape^ and flowers of a deep red. It is* 
very hardy^ and continues in bloom till late in autumn. 

Pelargo^nium, dumdsum, bushy Stork' s-bill, S. G. 19, 
a shrubby much-branched stem, with numerous small reni» 
form obtuse leaves, and white and dark purple flowers. A 
compact little bush, flowering till late in autumn. 

P. Deiinisianum, Dennis's Stork' s-bill, S. G. 20, a shrubby 
branching stem, with large reniform or cordate five-lobed 
leaves, and fine large dark red-striped flowers. It is a hand- 
some plant, of easy culture, a free flowerer, and continues 
in bloom till late in autumn. 

P. aduUerinum, hoary trifid-leaved Stork' s-bill or Kutu- 
soff''s Geranium, S. G. 22, a shrubby stem, of a woody tex- 
ture, very much-branched, the leaves cordate and trifid, and 
the flowers of a fine dark red. It is one of the earliest flow- 
erers of the genus. 

P. soluhile, dissolvible-coloured Stork's-bill, or Duchess 
of Gloucester's Geranium, S. G. 24, a shrubby stem with 
few branches, the leaves kidney-shaped, and the flowers 
large, and of a fine deep red mixed with darker red. It is 
a curious circumstance of this plant, that water dissolves the 
colour of its petals. 

P. ohtusifolium, blunt-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 25, a 
shrubby stem, of a woody texture, and much-branched ; the 
leaves flat, an inch long and two inches wide, deeply three- 
lobed, the flowers of a pale and darker red. A free grower 
and abundant flowerer. 

P. exhnium, select Stork's-bill, S. G. 26, a shrubby erect 
stem with hairy branches, cordate, undulate, rugged leaves, 
and fine large flowers, pale red, dark red, and black. It is 
a strong grower, and requires a rich loamy soil. 

P. papilionaceum, butterfly Stork's-bill, S. G. 27, an erect 
branching shrubby stem ; the branches terminated with large 
panicles of flowers, red and dark ; the leaves are roundly 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



277 



cordate and bluntly crenate. It is a handsome vigorous 
plants which has been long in cultivation. 

Pelargo^nium scmtillans, sparkhng Stork's- bill, S. G. 
28^ a shrubby much-branched stem with flexuose purplish 
branches, wedge-shaped five-lobed leaves, and deep scarlet 
flowers. The plant rather delicate. 

P. grandifldmm, great-flowered Stork's-bill^ S. G. 29, a 
shrubby erect stem not much branched, with smooth glau- 
cous leaves deeply five to seven lobed, and large white flow- 
ers. It is rather scarce at present, and is also tenderer than 
any of the other species. 

P. ruhescensy the Countess of Liverpool's Stork's-bill, 
S. G. 30, the stem shrubby, tall, and erect, and not much 
branched ; the leaves cordate, five-lobed, and undulate ; and 
the flowers large, of a fine dark red above and the lower 
petals paler. It is a free strong-growing plant. 

F. pulchellum, nonesuch Stork's-bill, S. G. 31, B. M. 
524, a suffruticose short succulent stem, with oblong sinuate 
leaves, and pale whitish flowers with streaks of red. It is a 
native of the Cape of Good Hope, and was introduced in 
1795; it flowers from March to May, and must be but 
sparingly watered after the bloom is over. 

P. Daveyanum, Davey's Stork's-bill, S. G. 32, the stem 
shrubby, branching, and hairy ; the leaves eil her cordate or 
kidney-shaped, slightly five-lobed ; the flowers of a fine dark 
scarlet above and the lower petals lighter. It is a hybrid, 
by Davey of the King's-road, a free grower, abundant flow- 
erer, and continues in bloom a long time. 

P. involucrafum, large-bracted Stork's-bill^ S. G. 33, the 
stem shrubby, erect, growing to a great size, and not much 
branched ; the leaves are kidney-shaped or cordate ; and the 
flowers very large, white, streaked with dark purple. It is 
of hybrid origin, and there are several varieties, all ' fine 



278 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



showy plants and free-growers, thriving well in a light turfy 
loam, mixed with a little peat or leaf-mould.' 

Pelargo^nium, coriandrifolium, coriander-leaved Stork's- 
billj, S. G. 34, a herbaceous flexuose branching stem, with 
bipinnate, smooth, and shining leaves, and white flowers 
streaked with red. It is a curious plant, a free grower, and 
easily cultivated. 

P. oblatum, oblate-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 35, a shrubby 
branching stem, growing to a great size ; the leaves very 
large, dark green, five or six inches long and six inches wide, 
cordate five to seven lobed, and imbricate at the base ; flow- 
ers large, and light and dark red, finely marked. It is a fine 
showy plant, hardy and easily managed. 

¥. elegans, elegant Stork's-bill, S. G. 36, a suffruticose, 
erect, and rugged stem, owing to the persistent stipules ; the 
leaves rigid and nearly orbicular, and the flowers white and 
finely streaked with purple. 

P. SeymouricB, Mrs. Seymour's Stork's-bill, S. G. 37, a 
shrubby branching hairy stem, with cordate leaves, and dark 
red flowers, marked with black. It is a hardy free-growing 
plant of hybrid origin. 

P. ornatum, ornate Stork's-bill, S. G. 39, a shrubby stem, 
much-branched ; the leaves small, wider than long, between 
cordate and wedge shaped, the flowers with a blotch of pink 
in the upper petals. 

P. pavonmum, peacock-spotted Stork's-bill, S. G. 40, 
the stem shrubby and branching ; the leaves wedge-shaped 
at the base, inclining to cordate ; the flowers of a fine 
bright red above, and the lower petals of a pale scarlet. 
It is a hybrid, raised by Mr. Colville of the King's-road, 
a free grower, and continues in blossom all the summer and 
till late in autumn. 

P. floridumf abundant-flowering StorFs-bill, S.G. 41, a 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



279 



shrubby stem very much branched ; the leaves cordate and 
a httle undulate ; and the flowers pale red, dark red, and 
black. It is a free-growing hybrid, very hardy^ and bloom- 
ing till late in the autumn. 

Pelargo^nium humifusum, trailing Stork's-bill, S. G. 42, 
stems herbaceous, prostrate, spreading flat on the ground ; 
the leaves cordate, and three-parted or five-lobed ; the 
flowers very small, of a pale red, and few together. It seems 
to be a native of the Canaries, and flowers all the summer 
in any rich light soil. 

P. Lousadidnum, Miss Lousada's Stork's-bill, S.G. 44, 
a shrubby erect branching stem, three-lobed leaves, and fine 
large pale and dark red flowers. It is a hardy free-growing 
plant, seldom rising above eighteen inches. 

P. drdens, glowing Stork's-bill, S.G. 45, B.M. 139, a 
suffruticose thick little branched stem, with leaves scarcely 
two alike, cordate, oblong, or ternate, and small very dark 
scarlet and black flowers. It is a handsome plant, much 
admired for the briUiancy of its flowers, and their appearance 
during the greater part of the year. 

P. nervosum, prominent-nerved Stork's-bill, S.G. 47, a 
shrubby branching stem, kidney-shaped five-lobed leaves, 
and fine large red and black flowers. It is a fine flowering 
hybrid, and used to be called Princess Charlolte's Geranium. 

P. reniforme, kidney leaved Stork's-bill, S.G. 48, B.M. 
493. a shrubby stem with succulent branches, small kidney,, 
shaped leaves, and deep red flowers without white. It is a 
pretty plant, and delights in sandy loam, but must not have 
much water when in a dormant state. 

V. pdrticeps, participant Stork's-bill, S.G. 49, a shrubby 
erect branching stem, vi^ith cordate five-lobed leaves, and 
deep red flowers without white. It is a carious mule, and 
valued as flowering late in autumn, when most of the more 
showy kinds are over. 



280 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Pelargo^nium BoylecB, the Countess of Cork's Stork's- 
bill, S.G. 50, a shrubby much -branched stem, with distichous 
cuneate leaves, and fine large flowers, white, and variegated 
with red and dark purple. It is a free-grower, and flowers 
early in spring and till the end of summer. 

P. lobdtum, cow-parsnip -leaved Stork's-bill, S.G. 51, 
B.M. 1986, a large rough tuberous root, crowned with large 
various-formed leaves ; the flowers small, of a very dark 
purple, fragrant during the night, but without scent during 
the day. This is a beautiful and curious plant. Mr. Sweet 
in his Geraniace(B~ says, ' We have seldom observed it in 
flower, which is probably owing to the mode of treatment. 
When the plants are in a dormant state, they require 
scarcely any water till they show an inclination to grow ; 
they should then be fresh potted in an equal mixture of 
turfy loam, peat and sand, with the pots well drained ; they 
must then be regularly supplied with water ; as they grow 
they may be shifted into larger-sized pots if required, and 
they will flower as freely as any other kind : the best method 
of propagating them is by the little tubers of the roots, 
which may be planted several in one pot in the same kind 
of soil: their tops must be just above the surface of 
the mould, and they require scarcely any water till the 
wound is callused over, when they may be watered re- 
gularly, and they will soon make durable young plants.' 
Geran. 51. 

P. pinguifdlium, greasy-leaved Stork's-bill, S.G. 52, the 
stem shrubby, much branched^ the branches succulent ; the 
leaves between kidney and heart shaped, and the flowers 
large, pale, and dark red veined. The plant is rather ten- 
der, and must not be over-watered. 

P. opulifolium, Guelder-rose-leaved Stork's-bill, S.G. 53, 
a shrubby erect stem with few branches, and cordate, 
wide, concave, five-lobed leaves ; the flowers very large. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 281 



of a deep red, finely streaked with a darker red. It is a free- 
growing plant, thriving in turfy loam and peat. 

Pelargo^nium ecliinatum^ prickly-stalked Stork's-bill, 
S.G. 54, B.M. 309, the root fleshy and producing tubers ; 
the stem shrubby and succulent ; the leaves cordate, from 
three to five lobed, and the flowers white with bright red spots. 

' This handsome species is one of the most desirable 
plants of the genus for any collection, as it begins to flower 
in autumn after most of the other kinds have done, and if 
kept in a warm situation it will continue to bloom till late in 
the spring. As soon as it has done flowering and becomes 
dormant, it should be watered very sparingly, requiring very 
little till it begins to grow again ; it may then be shifted, 
and the greater part of the mould taken from its roots ; then 
planted in a fresh pot, in an equal mixture of loam, peat, 
and sand, and regularly watered ; and as it increases in 
size, requires changing into larger pots, for this is the only 
way to flower it in perfection. A warm part of the green- 
house, or the coolest and most airy part of the hot-house, 
is the most suitable for it in winter. Cuttings root readily 
if planted when in a growing state, and set in the green- 
house.' Sweet's Geran. 54. 

P. ignescens var. sterile, barren-anthered flame-flowered 
Stork's-bill, S.G. 55, B.C. 109, a shrubby much-branched 
stem, with leaves trifid or deeply three-lobed, and flowers 
of a deep scarlet with black spots. It is much esteemed on 
account of the brilliant colour of the flowers. 

P. inodorum, scentless Stork's-bill, S.G. 56. a herbaceous, 
much-branched, spreading stem, with small opposite cordate 
leaves, and small heads of red and white flowers. It is a 
curious little plant, but not to be recommended for orna- 
mental culture. 

P. glaiicum, glaucous-leaved Stork's-bill, S.G. 57, B.M. 
5B, a shrubby erect stem with few branches ; lanceolate or 



282 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



spoon-shaped, entire, smooth, and glaucous leaves ; and 
pale yellow and white flowers spotted with red. It is a 
beautiful and singular plant, somewhat tender, and apt to 
suffer in winter from wet. 

Pelargo^nium scBpeflorens, frequent-flowering Stork's- 
billj S.G. 58, a shrubby brown stem, with flat cordate five- 
lobed leaves, and red flowers with darker red and black spots. 
It is a desirable hybrid, as being in flower the greater part of 
the year. It begins to bloom. Sweet observes, at the end of 
summer, ' and if kept in a warmish situation it will con- 
tinue to flower through the winter tiU late in spring.' 

P. bellulum, neat Stork's-bill, S.G. 60, a shrubby dwarf 
stem, with five-lobed wedge-shaped leaves, and dark red 
flowers finely veined with darker red, purple, and black. 
It forms a pretty little bush, and is profusely covered with 
flowers all the summer. 

P. gibbdsum, knotted Stork's-bill, S.G. 61, a shrubby 
succulent stem swollen at the joints, the branches erect or 
slightly spreading ; the leaves ternate, smooth, and glaucous, 
and the flowers of a greenish yellow. It is a curious plant, 
esteemed for the pleasant odour it diffuses in the evening 
when in bloom, though it is quite scentless during the day. 

P. optdbile, desirable Stork's biU, S.G. 62, a shrubby 
much-branched stem, with rough, cordate, five-lobed leaves, 
and large flowers, white blotched with dark purple. It is a 
hardy plant, and makes a compact little bush eighteen inches 
high. 

P. kifbridum, mule Stork's-bill, S.G. 63, a shrubby stem, 
with numerous short flexuose branches, round kidney-shaped 
leaves, and deep scarlet flowers with dark fines and without 
white. It is considered an original species, notwithstanding 
the specific name : it is rather tender, and requires a soil of 
turfy loam and leaf mould, and to be not over- watered in 
winter. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 283 



Pelargo^nium Breesidnim,Breese^s Stork's-bill, S.G. 64, 
a shrubby branching stem, with cordate, oval, slightly-lobed 
leaves and fine deep red flowers varied with white and dark 
red spots and lines. It is a hybrid, hardy, and flowering 
freely great part of the year. 

P. imbricatum, imbricate-petaled Stork's-bill, S.G. 65, 
a shrubby flexuose stem, irregularly swollen at the joints ; 
the leaves nearly trifid, curled, and plaited ; the flowers in 
large heads, the petals obtuse, white round the edges, and 
dark red in the middle. It is a fine strong-growing plant, 
and produces abundance of flowers, through the summer, 
till late in the autumn. 

P. pectinifdliurrif comb-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 66, 
a shrubby smooth stem much branched, with smooth kid- 
ney-shaped plicate -furrowed leaves, and fine large dark 
and light red flowers. A free-growing plant, and an abun- 
dant flowerer. 

P. cordatunfif heart-leaved Stork's-bill, S.G. 67, B.M. 
165, a shrubby erect stem with few branches ; the leaves 
flat, cordate, acute, and dentate, and the flowers large, 
purplish red with dark streaks. It is a fine strong-growing 
plant, introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1774, 
and flowering from March to October. 

P. austrdle, New Holland Stork's-bill, S.G. 68, a short 
suff'ruticose stem with numerous hairy branches, and cordate 
leaves with large unequal crenatures ; the flowers white and 
bright red in streaks. It is a neat little plant, introduced 
in 1792 from New South Wales, and flowering and ripen- 
ing seeds abundantly. 

P. fulgidum celandine-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 69, a 
shrubby flexuose stem with few branches ; the leaves ter- 
nate, and leaflets sessile, deeply toothed, and pinnatifid ; 
the flowers small, of a deep scarlet with dark spots and lines. 
The flower is one of the most brilliant of the genus : the 



284 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



plant, being rather succulent, requires attention as to 
water. 

Pelargo^nium coarctafum, close-leaved Stork's-bill, or 
Lavalette's Geranium, S.G. 70, a shrubby much-branched 
stem, with numerous crowded cordate or kidney-shaped 
leaves, and large deep red flowers streaked with black. A 
pretty little hybrid, and hardy. 

P. mixtum, mixed Stork's-bill, S.G. 71, a shrubby erect 
branching stem, with cordate, nearly distichous leaves, of 
an agreeable scent, and white flowers marked with pale red. 
A neat little bushy plant, flowering from the early part of 
summer till late in autumn. 

P. Thy^nnecB, the Marchioness of Bath's Stork's-bill, 
S. G. 74, a shrubby much-branched stem, with short 
crowded branches and flat wide kidney-shaped leaves, and 
large flowers, deep red and black above, and pale red and 
white below. A strong-growing plant, and an abundant 
flowerer ; the flowers large in proportion to the size of the 
plant. 

P. sangulneum, crimson Stork's-bill, S. G. 76, a shrubby 
succulent stem, not much branched, the branches knotted 
at the joints and glaucous ; the leaves decompound, smooth, 
and of a light green ; and the flowers of a deep scarlet or 
blood colour marked with black. It is a new introduction 
from Germany, and seems to grow luxuriantly. 

P. versicolor, various-coloured Stork's-bill, S. G. 78, a 
shrubby branching stem, with flat cordate five-lobed leaves, 
and large dark and light red flowers streaked with red and 
black. A free grower, and abundant flowerer. 

P. Hoareanumj Hoare's Fair Rosamond Stork's-bill, or 
Fair Rosamond Geranium, S. G. 80, the stem shrubby, of 
a woody texture ; the branches numerous, rigid, flexuose, 
and clothed with small dark green cordately ovate leaves ; 
the flowers large, not many together, white, dark red, and 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



285 



black. It is a hybrid, and one of the handsomest of the 
genus. Cuttings must be taken off in very young wood, 
the old taking a long time to make roots. 

Pelargo^nium calycinum, large-calyxed Stork's-bill, 
Brown's Countess of Roden, or Rose-brilliant Geranium, 
S. G. 81, a shrubby much-branched stem, with leaves orbi- 
cularly reniform, scarcely lobed and hairy ; the flowers of 
a deep red, and finely veined and marked with red and 
black. There are three or more varieties, all free growers 
and flowerers. 

F . atrofiiscum, dark-brown-marked Stork's-bill, S. G. 82, 
a shrubby branching stem clothed with long hairs ; leaves 
wedge-shaped, with short foot-stalks ; flowers of a dark or 
purplish brown, marked with still darker brown. It is a 
handsome plant of hybrid origin, a free grower and abun- 
dant flowerer. 

P. macranthon, large-flowered Stork's-bill, S. G. 83, a 
shrubby flexuose stem, with leaves inclining to be succulent, 
hairy on both sides, reniform and deeply toothed ; the flowers 
very large, w^hite, finely streaked, and blotched with purple. 
It is one of the largest-flowered hybrids that has yet been 
originated. 

P. filipendulifdlium, drop wort-leaved Stork' s-bifl, S. G. 
85, B. 1641, subcaulescent, with a large brown scaly tube- 
rous root ; the leaves pinnatifid or laciniate, light-green in- 
clining to glaucous ; the flowers smaU, greenish, white, and 
purple. It grows in turfy loam, peat, and sand, and is in- 
creased by tubers of the root. 

P. ColvUlil Colville's Stork^s-bill, S. G. 86, a shrubby 
erect stem with hairy branches, rigid, cordate, undulate 
leaves, and deep scarlet and black flowers. A fine hybrid 
production, originated in Colville's nursery in 1820. 

P. Baileyanum, Bailey's Stork's-bill, S. G. 87, a shrubby 
branching stem, with kidney-shaped truncate leaves, and 



286 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



large white and dark-brown flowers. It is quite hardy, arid 
a free flowerer. 

Pelargo^nium ohsciirum, darkened-petaled Stork's-bill, 
S. G. 89, a shrubby much-branched stem^, with oblately 
cordate leaves, and fine dark red, purple and white flowers. 
One of the finest hybrids yet originated, hardy, and a free- 
flowerer. 

P. Husseyanum, Lady Mary Hussey's Stork's-bill, or 
Brown's Duke of York Geranium, S. G. 92, a shrubby 
branching stem, with dark green cordate lobed leaves, and 
fine large dark red flowers. A strong and robust hybrid, 
flowering abundantly all the summer. 

P. inchum, cut-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 93, a shrubby 
branching stem, with ternate dark green pubescent leaves, 
and small narrow-petaled white flowers striated with red 
lines. A rather tender plant, requiring an airy situation, 
and care as to water. 

P. scutdtum, shield-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 95, a shrubby 
much-branched stem, with peltate five-lobed leaves, and 
large white flowers finely marked with red. A handsome 
plant, raised in 1819 from seed received from the Cape of 
Good Hope. 

P. bicolor, two-coloured Stork' s-bifl, S. G. 97, B. M. 201, 
a shrubby branching knotted stem, with cordate trifid undu- 
late leaves, and deep dark brown and red flowers. Intro- 
duced in 1778, since which two varieties of it have been 
procured from seeds. 

P. mlldsum, villous Stork's-bill, or Wood's Geranium 
Majestum, S. G. 100, a shrubby branching stem, with 
roundish truncate leaves, and very large red flowers marked 
with dark purple. A fine plant, of hybrid origin, requiring 
a dry airy situation in the green-house. 

P. Blandfordidnurriy hoary-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 101, 
a shrubby gouty-jointed branching stem, with flat palmately 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



287 



seven-lobed leaves, and small white flowers marked with 
red. A curious free-growing hybrid, very hardy. 

Pelargo^nium nanum, pygmy Stork' s-bill, S. G. 102, a 
short sufFruticose stem^ with cordate three-lobed leaves, and 
deep scarlet flowers with dark lines. A curious and hand- 
some little hybrid, slow of increase, because it produces 
few shoots. 

P. Lamberti, Lambert's Stork' s-bill, S. G. 104, a shrubby 
much-branched stem, with wedge-shaped trifid leaves, and 
fine red flowers marked with darker red and brown. A 
compact bush, flowering abundantly for the greater part of 
the year. 

P. diffdrme, various-leaved Stork's-bill, or Davey's Prin- 
cess Augusta Geranium, S. G. 105, a shrubby much- 
branched stem, with rigid, deformed, cordate, or cuneate 
leaves, and large-petaled flowers streaked and blotched with 
dark red and brown. It is a hardy and easily managed 
hybrid, requiring very little water in winter. 

P. pulchrum, gay Stork's-bill, S. G. 107, a shrubby 
branching stem, with kidney-shaped slightly lobed leaves, 
and dark red and white flowers veined with purple and 
brownish red. 

P. concinnum, comely Stork's-bill, S. G. 108, a shrubby 
branching stem, with truncate, trifid, undulate leaves, and 
fine scarlet flowers marked with a darker streak of the same 
colour, and with black lines. A hybrid of small growth, 
but an abundant bloomer. 

P. denticuldtum, toothed-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 109, a 
shrubby much-branched stem, with palmately bipinnatifid 
leaves, and small purplish flowers in no great abundance. 
A hardy free-growing plant, but not ornarnental. 

P. Smzthii, Smith's Stork's-bill, S. G. 110, a shrubby 
branching stem, with cordate, concave, five-lobed leaves. 



288 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



and dark red and light red flovvers of a fine showy ap- 
pearance. It is a free-growing hybrid, and an abundant 
bloomer. 

Pelargo^nium rigescens, stiff-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 
112, a shrubby branching stem, with roundly cordate con- 
cave leaves, and pale red flowers finely varied by dark 
lines. A curious hybrid, of easy culture. 

P. hirtum, hairy Stock' s-bill, S. G. 113, a shrubby suc- 
culent stem, with decompound leaves, and numerous linear 
bluntish leaflets ; the flowers small, and of a pale and deep 
red. A curious succulent species, requiring care as to 
water. 

P. tripartitum, brittle-stalked Stork's-bill, S. G. 15, a 
shrubby branching stem, with glaucescent ternate fleshy 
leaves, and long-petaled red and white flowers ; the plant 
rather tender. 

P. platypetalon, broad-petaled Stork's-bill, or Oldenburgh 
Geranium, S. G. 116, a shrubby branching stem, with 
cordate, slightly lobed, unequally toothed leaves, and fine 
large white flowers, beautifully streaked with brownish red 
or purple : the plant hardy and of easy culture. 

P. Scarbordvice, Countess of Scarborough's Stork's-bill^ 
or Lady Scarborough's Geranium, S. G. 117, a shrubby 
branching stem, with small subtrifid or deeply three-lobed 
leaves, and fine dark and light red and white flowers. The 
plant flowers early in spring and late in autumn, and has a 
fine lemon-like scent. 

P. viscoslssimum, viscous Stork's-bill, S. G. 118, a shrubby 
erect branching stem^ with palmately five or seven lobed 
clammy leaves, and heads of white flowers marked with 
light red. It is a hardy plant, and an original species. 

P. formdsum, variegated-flowered Stork's-bill, S. G. 120, 
a shrubby branching stem, with roundly cordate, undulate. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 289 



concave leaves, and a large head of dark and pale red 
flowers. A hardy free-flowering hybrid, in bloom from 
spring to autumn. 

Pelargo^nium amw^num, delightful Stork's-bill, S. G. 
121, a tuberous root and subcaulescent stem, with pinnate 
radiated leaves, and fine red flowers marked with dark lines. 
It is a beautiful little plant, of hybrid origin, and requiring 
the same treatment as the other tuberous kinds. 

P. ComptdnicB, the Marchioness of Northampton's Stork's- 
bill, S. G. 122, a shrubby much-branched stem, with flat, 
wedge-shaped, cordate leaves, and red flowers marked with 
darker lines and blotches. A slender-growing plant, but an 
abundant bloomer early in spring. 

P. chrysanthemifdliuniy chrysanthemum-leaved Stork's- 
bill, S. G. 124, a shrubby much -branched stem, with cor- 
date, pinnatifid, or deeply seven-lobed leaves, and deep 
scarlet flowers marked with darker scarlet and black. A 
very handsome hybrid production, excelling most in bril- 
liancy of colours. It is a free grower, and easily managed. 

P. patens, spread ing-flowered Stork's-bill, S. G. 125, a 
large tuberous root branching out into smaller tubers ; a 
short, succulent, rigid, erect stem, crowned with ternate 
radiate leaves, and scarlet and white flowers. It is a curious 
and beautiful hybrid, easily managed. 

P. Barnardmum, Mr. Barnard^s Stork's-bill, S. G. 127, 
a shrubby stem with few branches, and three-parted, acute, 
smooth, a httle glaucous leaves, and scarlet-veined flowers. 
A curious hybrid, which thrives well with common treat- 
ment. 

P. cdndidum, fair-flowered Stork's-bill, S. G. 128, a 
shrubby branching stem, with cordate three -lobed leaves, 
and large white flowers marked with red. A pretty plant, 
and an abundant bloomer. 

P. floecdsum, nappy Stork's-bill, the Jenkinson's Rebecca 
of gardeners, S. G. 129, a shrubby erect stem, not much 

u 



290 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



branched, the leaves cordate, three-parted, and undulate, 
and the flower of a deep scarlet marked with black. The 
brilliancy of the flowers is unequalled in the genus ; it re- 
quires care as to the dispensation of water, especially when 
not in flower. 

Pelargo^nium TVatsoniy Waisou's Stork's-bill, S. G. 130, 
a shrubby not much branched stem, with roundly cordate 
five-lobed leaves, and large red flowers, marked with dark 
or brownish red. A pretty plant, and an abundant bloomer 
till late in autumn. 

P. Youngii, Young's Stork's-bill, S. G. 131, a shrubby 
much-branched stem, with flat widely-cordate slightly three- 
lobed leaves, and large showy white and dark red flowers. 
A desirable plant, from its abundance of bloom and hardy 
nature. 

P. Hoarecefldrum, Hoarea-flowered Stork's-bill, S. G. 
133, a tuberous root, and subcaulescent, succulent, leafy 
stem ; the leaves radiate, pinnate, and canescent, and the 
flowers deep-red marked with black. It is a curious and 
handsome hybrid, requiring the usual culture given to the 
tuberous species of this genus. 

P. pulcherrimum, beautiful Stork's-bill, S. G. 134, a 
shrubby, erect, much-branched stem, with kidney-shaped 
truncate leaves, and fine deep-red and black flowers. It is 
a dwarf bushy plant, and flowers late in autumn. 

P. spedabile, showy Stork's-bill, S. G. 136, a shrubby, 
erect, branching stem, with cordate, undulate deeply-toothed 
leaves, and bright red flowers marked with darker red. 
There are several varieties of this species, all splendid 
plants of easy culture. 

P. Beaufortianum, Duchess of Beaufort's Stork's-bill, 
S. G. 138, a shrubby, erect, branching stem, vrith rigid, 
smoothish, truncate, five-lobed leaves, and large red and 
pale-red flowers marked with black : the plant hardy and a 
free flowerer. 



THE GREBN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 291 



Pelargo^nium principissce, Princess Charlotte's Stork's- 
bill, S. G. 139, a shrubby, erect, branching stem, with cor- 
dately reniform sUghtly-lobed leaves, and dark-red flowers 
marked with black blotches and lines. A beautiful plant, 
but rather tender ; suffering, however, more from wet than 
cold. 

P. concolor, self-coloured Stork's-bill, S. G. 140, a 
shrubby branching stem, with cordate, five-lobed undulate 
leaves, and deep -red flowers. There is a variety with 
larger flowers : both are handsome and abundant flowering 
plants, well adapted for training to a trellis, as their shoots 
grow to a great length if allowed. 

P. eriophy'llum, woolly round-leaved Stork' s-bill, S. G. 
141, a shrubby much-branched stem, with spreading 
branches, and flat, very soft, roundly-cordate leaves, and 
pale red and white flowers : in spring the flowers are small, 
but they increase in size in course of the summer. 

P. Newshamianum, Miss Newsham's Stork's-bill, S. G. 
144, a shrubby branching stem, with cordate, three-lobed, 
deeply-toothed leaves, and white flowers marked with red 
and dark brown. A pretty little plant, of hybrid origin and 
easy culture. 

P. multiradiatum, many-rayed Stork's-bill, S. G. 145, 
subcaulescent, with a tuberous, large, brown, scaly root, 
short stem, and large variable deeply cut leaves ; the flowers 
in a radiated umbel, dark brown or black, and edged with 
a greenish yellow. It grows freely in turfy loam, peat, and 
sand, and increases freely from tubers of the roots. 

P. BrowrCii, Brown's Stork's-bill, Brown's Miss Rosa, 
S. G. 146, a shrubby short stiff" branching stem, with rigid, 
acute^concave nerved leaves, and large pale-red flowers 
marked with dark brown or purple. A hybrid as hardy as 
any of the genus. 

P. Pofteri, Potters's Stork's-bill, S. G. 147, a shrubby 

U2 



292 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



rather succulent branching stem, with leaves slightly cordate, 
deeply three-cleft, and many-nerved ; the flowers of a 
deep scarlet, finely marked with black. It is a hybrid, apt 
to lose its leaves in winter if not kept in a warm situation, 
and dry : ' but in summer/ Mr. Sweet observes, * it grows 
very luxuriantly^ and its flowers are much finer when 
growing out in the open air : they are produced till late in 
autumn.' Geran. 147. 

F EL \ RG d'mvM pdllens, cream-coloured Stork's-bill, S. G. 
148, a suffruticose, short, succulent stem, with deeply three- 
parted hairy leaves, and pale yellow flowers. A rare and 
curious species, but not of difficult cultivation. 

P. verbenafdlium, vervain-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 149, 
a shrubby, branching stem, with ternate, rough, hairy-leaves, 
and small, narrow-petalled, pale-red flowers, marked with 
darker red. A curious hybrid, and abundant bloomer, in- 
troduced in collections for its singularity. 

P. Robinsdni, Robinson's Stork's-bill, S. G. 150, a shrubby, 
erect stem, with very large leaves, four or five inches long, 
and wide, cordate, acute, and undulate ; the flowers large, 
pale, red-marked, with darker red blotches and veins. It 
is a hybrid of robust growth, and prolific in bloom. 

P. atropurpureum, dark-purple Stork's-bill, S. G. 152, a 
shrubby, branching stem, with cordate, acute, three-lobed 
undulate leaves, and purple flowers, marked and veined 
with darker purple. 

P. pyrithriifdlium, feverfew-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 
153, a shrubby, much-branched stem, with palmately bipin- 
natifid cordate leaves, and deep-red or scarlet-orange flow- 
ers, marked with black. A curious hybrid, flowering finely 
in autumn. 

P. Jenkinsdni, Mr. Jenkinson's Stork's-bill, or John Bull 
Geranium, S. G. 154, a shrubby branching stem, with rigid, 
roundly-cordate leaves, and pale- red, white, and very dark 



ii 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 293 



purplish-red flowers. An elegant, free-growing, abundant- 
flowering hybrid. . . 

Pelargo^nium lepidurriy pretty Stork's-bill, S. G. i56, a 
shrubby, much -branched stem, with cordate, five-lobed, 
undulate leaves, and pale -red flowers, veined with darker 
red. It is an elegant little hybrid, and continues in bloom 
till late in autumn. 

P. Tihhitsianum, Mr. Tibbit's Stork's-bill, S. G. 158, a 
shrubby, branching stem, with cordate, slightly three-lobed 
undulate leaves, and large red and dark-red flowers. A 
magnificent hybrid, and one of the largest-flowering kinds 
of the bright reds which has yet appeared : the plant of 
tolerably strong growth. 

P. ce'mulum, rival Stork's-bill, S. G. 160, a shrubby, 
much-branched stem, with leaves between cordate and re- 
niform, about as wide as long, and large, light, and dark-red 
flowers, veined and shaded with darker red or brown. A 
hardy plant, free grower, and abundant flowerer. 

P. quinquevulnerum, dark -flowered Stork's-bill, S. G. 161, 
a suffruticose flexuose stem, with ternate bipinnatifid leaves, 
and dark brown or purple flowers, edged with light red. A 
handsome plant, requiring care as to watering. 

P. crenulatum, crenulate-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 162, 
a shrubby, erect stem, not much branched ; leaves large, 
reniform, shallowly notched with rounded teeth ; the flowers 
large, purplish red, shaded, and veined with darker colours. 

P. Murrayanum^ Lord James Murray''s Stork's-bill, S. G. 
164, a tall, erect, branching stem, with large, cordate, 
broad leaves, and fine red flowers, marked with darker red 
or brown. It is a strong, handsome plant, an abundant 
bloomer, and continues in flower the greater part of the 
year. 

P. ternatum, ternate-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 165, B. M. 
413, a shrubby much-branched stem, with distichous, ter- 



294 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



nate, concave^ roughs rigid leaves, and pale-red veined flow- 
ers; introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1789. 

Pelargo^nium venustum, comely Stork' s-bilL S. G. 167, 
a shrubby erect stem, not much branched ; the leaves kid- 
ney-shaped, slightly lobed and toothed ; the flowers large, 
white, and pale-bluish with dark blotches on the two upper 
petals. A beautiful compact bush, producing great plenty 
of flowers. 

P. tomentdsum, Penny-royal Stork's-bill, or peppermint- 
scented Geranium, S. G. 168, B. M. 518, a shrubby, thick, 
succulent stem, much branched, with cordate five-lobed, sub- 
hastate leaves, and small white and purple flowers. An old 
inhabitant of the green-house, having been introduced from 
the Cape of Good Hope in 1790. 

P. asperifdlium, rough-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 169, a 
shrubby branching stem, with cordate, deeply-lobed, roughish 
leaves, and deep -red flowers lined and shaded wdth darker 
red. A hardy ornamental plant, and a good flowerer. 

P. cruentum, blood-red Stork's-bill, S. G. 170, a tuberous 
scaly root, with pinnatifid, or deeply laciniate, scaly leaves, 
and deep dark-red flowers. An elegant little hybrid which 
flowers all the summer. 

V. fragrans, nutmeg-scented Stork's-bill, S. G. 172, a 
shrubby, erect stem, much branched, with roundly-cordate 
three-lobed leaves, and small pale flowers tinged with blue. 
It continues in bloom the greater part of the year. 

P. coruscans, glittering Stork's-bill, S. G. 173, a shrubby 
much-branched stem, with shghtly cordate, ovate leaves, and 
fine deep-red flowers, veined and shaded with blackish red or 
brown. A handsome hybrid which continues in bloom the 
greater part of the year. 

P. milsianum, Mr. Wells' Stork's-bill, S. G. 175, a 
shrubby erect branched stem, with flat, cordate, hairy leaves, 
and bright orange-scarlet flowers edged with purple. One 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 295 



of the most splendid hybrids that has yet appeared^ its bril- 
hancy of colouring surpassing all art to imitate. 

Pelargo^nium ramuldsum, small-branched Stork's-bill, 
S. G. 177, a shrubby, erect, much-branched stem, with 
small cordate or cuneate leaves, and flowers white with large 
blotches of deep red and black. It is a bushy plant, a hy- 
brid of the easiest culture. 

P. FairliecB, Mrs. Fairlie's Stork's-bill, S. G. 178, a 
shrubby erect much-branched stem, with small, reniform, 
deeply three lobed leaves, and reddish-purple flowers with 
dark pink blotches. A hybrid from Paris, a late flowerer, 
but of easy culture. 

P. glauciifdliiim, horn poppy-leaved Stork's-bill, S. G. 
179, a large tuberous root, suffruticose stem, and ternate 
pinnatifid, lobate, or sinuate leaves, with dark velvet-coloured 
flowers edged with a greenish yellow, A handsome and 
very curious hybrid ; the flowers exquisitely fragrant, their 
fragrance beginning about five or six o'clock in the evening, 
and continuing till about nine the next morning. 

P. flexudsum, zigzag-stalked Stork's-bill, S. G. 180, a 
shrubby, succulent, brittle, flexuose stem, with cordately ovate 
deeply incised nerved leaves, and deep scarlet and black 
flowers. A beautiful hybrid, newly originated at Mr. Col- 
ville's nursery, and which Mr. Sweet says will probably 
flower all the winter. 

P. Broughtdnice, Lady Broughton's Stork's-bill, S. G. 181, 
a shrubby branching stem, with cordate, five-lobed, undulate 
leaves, and brilliant flame-coloured flowers with dark shades 
and veins. A handsome-growing plant, blooming all the 
summer and till late in autumn. 

P. lyrianthinum, royal purple Stork's-bill, or M ore's 
Princess of Denmark Geranium, S. G. 183, a shrubby, 
much-branched stem, with flat, cordate, five-lobed leaves. 



296 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



and large, bright, rosy-purple flowers. A hybrid ; an abun- 
dant flowerer and very hardy. 

FEL^RGo^mvM acutildbum, sharp-lobed Stork's-bill, S. G. 
184, a shrubby-branching stem, with flat, cuneate or lan- 
ceolate leaves, and fine white flowers blotched with red and 
purple. The plant hardy and of free growth. 

P. interlentum, interwoven Stork's-bill, S. G. 185, a 
tuberous root, the stem very short, with leaves variable, 
ovate, obtuse, jagged or ternate, and bright scarlet flowers 
veined with black. An elegant hybrid, flowering the greater 
part of the summer. 

P. paucidentatum, distant-toothed Stork's-bill, S. G. 186, 
a shrubby, flexuose, branching stem, with broad, cordate 
slightly three-lobed leaves, and bright lilac flowers tinged 
with rose in the centre, on which is a black velvety mark. 
A hardy plant, producing abundance of bloom. 

P. erecturriy upright Stork's-bill, S. G. 187, an erect suf- 
fruticose stem, with cordate jagged lobate leaves, and rosy- 
coloured and white flowers. The plant succulent, and re- 
quiring but little water. 

P. cosmidnum, perfumed Stork's-bill, S. G. 189, a 
shrubby, branching stem, with small, distant, two-ranked, 
deeply-lobed leaves, and white flowers with dark spots on a 
red ground. A handsome plant with an agreeable fragrance. 

P. selectum, choice Stork's-bill, S. G. 190, a tuberous 
root, and suffruticose stem, with cordate, deeply five-lobed, 
unequally-toothed leaves, and rosy-purple flowers with dark 
velvet spots nearly the size of the petals. The plant rare^ 
but not of difficult culture. 

P. BeaddnicB, Mrs. Beadon's Stork's-bill, S. G. 191, a 
shrubby, upright, much-branched stem, with cuneate, deeply 
three-lobed crenate leaves, and bright-reddish blue flowers 
with black veins. A hardy hybrid of easy culture. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 297 



pELARGO^NiUM crasicaiile, thick-stalked Stork's-bill, S. G. 
192, B. M. 477, a shrubby, succulent, branching stem, with 
reniform, acuminated plicate leaves, and white flowers marked 
with bright purple. A fine species, introduced from the 
south-west coast of Africa : there are several varieties^ all of 
them scarce, as the plants make but little wood to spare for 
cuttings. 

P. inscriptum, marked-pe tailed Stork's-bill, S. G. 193, 
a shrubby, branching stem, with cordate, lobed, toothed and 
very variable leaves ; the flowers blush -coloured, with bright 
red spots and finely reticulated lines which spread over the 
petals. A bushy plant, well adapted for a small green- 
house. 

P. affluens, numerous-flowered Stork's-bill, S. G. 194, 
a shrubby, much-branched stem, with small, cordate, deeply 
three-lobed leaves, and bright lilac flowers tinged with red, 
and a purple mark in the centre. A bushy plant, and an 
abundant bloomer all the summer. 

P. dependens, pendent-petalled Stork's-bill, S. G. 195, 
a shrubby, branching stem, with small, deeply three-lobed 
truncate leaves, and clear white flowers with large dark 
purple blotches edged with red. A handsome-flowering 
free-growing plant. 

P. aurantiacum, orange -coloured Stork's-bill, S. G. 198, 
a shrubby flexuose stem, with cordate, lobed, unequally- 
toothed leaves, and reddish orange flowers marked with pur- 
ple stripes. There are two varieties, all abundant flowerers 
in autumn. 

P. calocephalon, pretty headed Stork's-bill, or TuU's 
Imperial Geranium, S.G. 201, a shrubby, branching stem, 
with flat, cordate, acute, deeply five-lobed leaves, and pale 
blush flowers marked with red spots and numerous branch- 
ing lines. A fine strong-growing plant, and an abundant 
bloomer from May to November. 



298 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Pelargo^nium incanescens, whitish -leaved Stork's-bill, 
S.G. 203, a shrubby, erect-branched stem, with cordate, 
deeply, lobed-toothed leaves, and pale lilac flowers marked 
with dark purple spots and numerous purple lines. A fine 
strong-growing hybrid. 

P. modestum, modest Stork's-bill, S.G. 204, a shrubby, 
erect, much-branched stem, with small, cordate, three-lobed, 
undulate leaves, and pale blush-coloured flowers marked 
with dark lines and red blotches. The plant grows to the 
height of three feet, and flowers abundantly all the summer. 

The culture of this genus has been already given, Part I. 

MELIAXEiE. 

Ekebb^rgia capensis, Cape Ekebergia, a shrub, a native 
of the Cape of Good Hope, introduced in 1789. It grows 
in loam and peat, and may be increased by cuttings of 
young wood in sand under a bell-glass. 

Me^lia Azedarach, common Bead-tree, B.M. 1066, a 
deciduous tree, introduced from the South of Europe in 
1656, and flowering from June to August. It grows in loam 
and peat, and ripened cuttings root in sand under a hand- 
glass, their leaves not being taken off". 

AiTO^NiA capensis, Cape Aitonia, B.M. 173, B.C. 682, a 
shrub from the Cape of Good Hope, introduced in 1774, 
and flowering from April to September. 

CAMELLIFiE. 

The'a Bohea. 
vlridis. 

Came'llia Sasdnquay small white flower. 

■ rosea, fine rose-coloured Palmer's Camellia. 

— japdnica rubra, single red. 

' alba, single white. 

. = — semiduplex, semi-double red. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 299 



Came'llia j«j!?omc« rubra plena^ old double red. 

. young double red. 

■ ■ superb double red. 

cameo-plena^ Middlemist's blush. 

myrtifolia, myrtle-leaved, red-flowering. 

ijivoluta, Lady Long's red flower. 

• dtro-rubens, Loddiges' red. 

■ — anemonefidra^ Waratah red. 

• variegdta, carnation Waratah. 

cdrnea, blush Waratah. 

■ pmonifldra^ pseony -flowered. 

variegdta, double- striped. 

pomponia, Kew blush. 

• Jlavescens, Lady Hume's blush. 

luteo-dlba, Bassington*s yellowish white. 

alba pleno, double white. 

■ • longifolia, long-leaved. 

-— — rubricaulis. Lady Admiral Campbell's. 

• fFellbankii, Wellbank's Camellia, double white. 

" conchiflhra. 

oleifera, said to be a distinct species ivomjapdnica» 

hexanguldris^ double red. 

axillaris. 

There is a yearly increase of new sorts of Camellia from 
hybrid seedlings, all of them of great beauty both in flower 
and foliage. The culture of the genus has been already 
given, Part L 

AURANTIAXE.E. 

MuRRA^YA exotica, ash-leaved Murraya, B.R. 434, a tree 
from India, introduced in 1771, and flowering in August 
and September. 

CrxRUS medica, the Lemon-tree, a tree introduced from 
Asia in 1648, and flowering from May to July, 



300 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Ci^TRUS dcida, the Lime-tree, a tree introduced from Asia 
in 1648, and flowering from May to July. 

C. Aurantium, the common Orange-tree, a fruit-tree;, in- 
troduced from India in 1595, and flowering from May to Jul3\ 

C. sinensis^ myrtle-leaved Orange-tree, a tree from China, 

C. huxifolia, box-leaved Orange-tree, a tree from China. 

C. nohilis, Mandarin Orange-tree, A.R. 608, a tree in- 
troduced from China in 1805, and flowering from May to 
July. 

C.nobilis minor, smaller Mandarin Orange-tree, B.R.211. 

C. decumana, Shaddock-tree, a tree introduced from 
India in 1724, and flowering from May to July. 

The culture of the Citrus tribe has been already given, 
Part I. 

ZYGOPHYLL^E^. 

Zygo^phyllum cordifolium, heart-leaved Bean-caper, a 
low shrub introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1774, 
and flowering in October. 

Z. foe'tidum, foetid Bean-caper, B.M. 372, a shrub intro- 
duced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1790, and flowering 
from June to August. 

Z. maculdtum, spotted-flowered Bean-caper, a shrub in- 
troduced from China in 1782, and flowering in October and 
November. 

Z. Morgsdna, four-leaved Bean-caper, a shrub intro- 
duced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1732, and flowering 
from May to September. 

Z. sessilifdliumj sessile-leaved Bean-caper, a shrub intro- 
duced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1713, and flowering 
in July and August. 

These are ugly plants, easily grown in loam and peat, 
and cuttings root under a hand glass. 



THE green-house' CATALOGUE. 301 



Fago^nia erotica, Cretan Fagonia, B.M. 241, an annual 
from Candia, introduced in 1739, and flowering from June 
to August. 

F. arabica, Arabian Fag6nia, a biennial, introduced from 
Arabia in 1759, and flowering from June to August. 

These plants, which are void of beauty, grow in any light 
rich soil : they are best raised in a hot-bed, and then trans- 
planted and placed among the green-house plants. 

Melia^nthus major, great Honey-flower, B.R. 45, a 
suffruticose or spongy-wooded stem, with large, glaucous, 
pinnatifid leaves, and white mellifluous flowers : introduced 
from the Cape of Good Hope in 1688, and flowering from 
May to July. 

M. minor, small Honey-flower, B. M. 301, a plant si- 
milar to the other, but with smaller leaves. It was intro- 
duced from the Cape of Good Hope in 1696, and flowers in 
August. 

These plants are showy from their large glaucous leaves : 
they grow in any light rich soil, and are readily increased 
by cuttings or suckers. 

RUTAXE^. 

Ru^TA chalepensis, broad-leaved African Rue, a low 
evergreen shrub introduced from Africa in 1722, and flower- 
ing from June to September. 

R. angustifolia, narrow-leaved African Rue, a very low 
evergreen shrub, introduced from Africa in 1722, and flower- 
ing from June to September. 

R. pinnata, wing-leaved Rue, a low evergreen shrub 
from the Canaries in 1780, and flowering from March to 
August. 

Ugly, foetid plants which grow in any dry soil, and in- 
crease with care by cuttings or seeds. 



302 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 

V 



Adena^ndra iiniflbray one-flowered Adenandra, B. M. 
273, a shrub introduced from the Cape of Good Hope in 
1775, and flowering from April to June. 

A. ^m6eZ^d^a, umbel-flowered Adenandra, B. M. 1271, a 
shrub from the Cape in 1789, flowering from April to 
June. 

A. frdgrans, red-flowered Adenandra^ B. M. 1519, a 
shrub introduced from China in 1812, flowering from May 
to July. 

A. tetragbna, tetragonal Adenandra, a shrub introduced 
from the Cape of Good Hope in 1789, and flowering in July 
and August. 

A. amoe^na, charming Adenandra, B. R. 553, B. C. 161, 
a shrub from the Cape in 1790, flowering in July and 
August. 

These are elegant evergreen plants, which grow in sandy 
peat, or peat and loam with sand ; and they are increased 
by cuttings of the young tender tops, like the Heaths, 
see Part I. 

Baryo^sma serratifdlia^ saw-leaved Baryosma, B. M. 456, 
B. C. 373, a shrub from the Cape of Good Hope in 1789, 
flowering from March to June. 

B. latifolia, broad-leaved Baryosma, A. R. 33, B. C. 290, 
a shrub from the Cape in 1739, flowering in July and 
August. 

B. crenata, crenated Baryosma, B. C. 404, a shrub from 
the Cape in 1774, and flowering from January to March. 

B. ovata, oval-leaved Baryosma, B. M. 1616, a shrub 
from the Cape in 1790, flowering from February to Sep- 
tember. 

Beautiful evergreen plants, some of them odoriferous, 
and others showy when in bloom. Their culture is the same 
as for Adenandra. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE, 



303 



Dio^SMA opposififolia, opposite-leaved Diosma, an ever- 
green shrub from the Cape in 1752, and flowering from 
March to June. 

D. linearis, linear-leaved Diosma, an evergreen shrub 
from the Cape in 1800, and flowering from March to June. 

D. «//?a, white-flowered Diosma^ also from the Cape, and 
flowering from March to June. 



D. cupressma, cypress- 
leaved, B. C. 303. 
D. tenuifdiia, slender-leaved, 
D. succulenta, succulent- 
leaved. 



D. hirsuta, hairy-leaved, B.R. 
369. 

D. rubra, red-calyxed, B. R. 
563. 

D. pedinafa, pectinated. 
D. ericoldes, heath-leaved. 

The last seven species are all from the Cape, and flower 
from March or April to May or June. They are all much 
of the nature of heaths, thrive best in peat soil, and are 
increased by cuttings of the tender tops, planted in sand 
under a bell-glass. 

Agatho^sma hispida, rough-leaved Agathosma, a narrow- 
leaved evergreen shrub from the Cape in 1786, and flower- 
ing from June to August. 

A. villdsa, shaggy Agathosma, a similar shrub, from the 
Cape in 1786, and flowering at the same time. 

A. pulchella, blunt-leaved Agathosma, B. M. 1357, a 
shrub from the Cape in 1787, and flowering from February 
to September. 



A. marginata, marginate. 
A. cerefblia, chervil-scented. 
A. pubescens, pubescent. 



A.cilidta, ciliated, B. R. 366. 
A. capitata, pale purple. 
A. imbricdta, imbricated. 
A. acuminata, acuminated, 
B. C. 493. 

The last seven species are all from the Cape, and all 
flower in May or June to August. The culture of the 
whole genus is the same as that for Diosma, 



304 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE, 



CoRR^^A alba, white-flowered Corrse'a, A. R. 18, B. R. 
515, B. C. 152, a shrub from New South Wales in 1793, 
and flowering from April to June, 

C. specidsGj red-flowered CorrseX B. R. 26, B. C. 112, 

B. M. 1746, an evergreen, flowering at the same period as 

C. alba. 

C. virens, green-flowered Corrse^a, B. R. 3, B. C. 336, 
an evergreen shrub from New South Wales in 1800, flow- 
ering from November to May. 

These are handsome and very hardy plants ; so hardy 
that they bear the open air all the year in Jersey and Guern- 
sey : they grow in loamy soil, are increased readily by seeds 
or cuttings ; and C. specidsa, which is a very fine plant, is 
sometimes grafted on C, alba. 

Empleu^rum serrulatum^ Cape Empleurum, a shrub from 
the Cape in 1774, and flowering in June and July. It is a 
plant of little beauty, but of easy culture in sandy peat ; 
and cuttings of the young wood root readily in the same 
soil. 

CELASTRlN'EiE. 

CuRTisiA faginea, a Cape tree, with broad leaves : it 
grows in loam and peat, and ripened cuttings root in sand 
under a bell-glass. 

TEREBINTHA^CEiE. 

Cneo^rum tricoccum, smooth Widow-wail, a low shrub 
from the South of Europe in 1793, producing smaU yellow 
flowers from April to September. It grows in loamy soil, 
and is increased by cuttings of the young wood in the same 
soil, or by seeds. It is a dull ugly plant. 

Rhu's succedanum, red Lac Sumach, a shrub from China, 
in 1768, and flowering in June. 

R. semiaVatumy service-leaved Sumach, a shrub from 
Macao in 1780. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



305 



Rhu's pendulmum, pendu- 
lous. 

R. dentdturrif rough-stalked. 

R. cuneifolium, wedge- 
leaved. 

R. incisum, cut-leaved. 

R. tomentdsum, woolly- 
leaved. 

R. mlldsum^ hairy. 

R. pubescens, pubescent. 

R. vimindle, willow-leaved. 



R. angusfifdlium, 
leaved. 

R. rosmarinifolium, rose- 
mary-leaved. 

R. j^entaphy'llum, various- 
leaved. 

R. IcBmgdtum^ polished- 
leaved. 

R. lucidwn, shining-leaved. 

R. lucidum minus, small 
shinins-leaved. 



All these plants are natives of the Cape of Good Hope, 
exceipiing K. pentaphij'Uumi which is from Barbary : few 
of them have yet flowered in this country ; but those which 
have, bloom in July and August. They are chiefly weak 
deciduous plants^ with compound leaves of no beauty what- 
ever. They grow in sandy loam, and are increased by cut- 
tings of the ripe wood. 

DoDOiv^^A triquetra, three-sided Dodonse^a, A. R. 230, a 
shrub from New South Wales in 1790, flowering from June 
to August. 

D. angiistifolia, narrow-leaved Dodonae^a, a shrub from 
the Cape in 1758, flowering from May to August. 

These plants, which are of little beauty, grow in loam 
and peat, and are increased by young cuttings, in sand, 
under a bell. 

PisTA^ciA atldntica, Atlantic Pistachia-tree, a small tree 
from Barbary in 1790. 

P. Lenthcus, Mastic- tree, B. M. 1967, a small tree from 
the South of Europe in 1664, flowering in May. 

These plants have fine compound leaves, and are ever- 
greens ; but they flower sparingly, and are not ornamental : 
they grow in sandy loam, and are increased by young cut- 
tings in sand, under a bell-glass. 



306 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Xantho^xylum Cldva HercuUs, lentiscus-leaved Tooth- 
ach-tree^ a low tree from the West Indies in 1739, flowering 
in April and May. It grows in sandy loam^ and is in- 
creased by cuttings of the young wood in the same soil, and 
covered with a bell-glass. 

ScHi^Nus mollis, Peruvian Schinus, a shrub from Peru 
in 1597, flowering in July and August. 

S. dentdta, tooth-leaved Schinus, A. R. 620, a shrub from 
Owhyhee in 1795, flowering from May to July. 

These plants, of no beauty, grow in loam and peat, and 
are increased by cuttings in sand^ under a bell-glass. 

Cela^strus lucidus, shining Staff-tree, a low tree from 
the Cape of Good Hope, flowering from April to September. 

C. Pyr acanthus, pyracantha-leaved Staff- tree, a low 
tree also from the Cape, flowering in May and June. 

C. octagdnus, casslnoldes, cernuus, tetragdnus, and huxi- 
fdlius, are also green-house species of this genus, but all 
of them of little show or beauty. They are propagated like 
riex. 

Euo^NYMUs japbnicuSy Japan Spindle-tree, a low tre# 
from Japan, flowering from June to August. It grows in 
sandy loam, and is increased by cuttings of the young wood 
in the same soil. 

I^LEx crocea, African Holly, a shrub from the Cape of 
Good Hope in 1794, flowering in May and June. 

I. Perado, thick-leaved HoUy, a shrub from Madeira in 
1760, flowering in April and May. 

I. Casslne, Dahdon, and angustifolia, are frame shrubs 
from Carolina, and I. vomitdria is a frame shrub from Flo- 
rida ; all which flower in April and May. 

All the above species grow in loamy soil, and are in- 
creased by ripened cuttings in sandy loam, under a hand- 
glass. 

El^ode^ndrum australe, thick-leaved Olive-wood, a small 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 307 



tree from New South Wales in 1796, flowering from June 
to August. It grows in loam and peat, and ripened cut- 
tings root in sand under a hand-glass. 

RHA^MNE^E. 

Rha^mnus lycioides, boxhorn-Uke Buckthorn, a shrub 
from Spain in 1782^ flowering from September to December. 

R. crenuldtus, Theezans, tetragdnus, latif alius , glandu- 
Idsus, and prinoldes, are species which are inhabitants of 
the green-house, but without a single recommendation. 
They grow in loam and peat, and ripened cuttings root 
freely in sand under a frame or glass. 

ZfzYPHus lineatus, lined Zizyphus, a shrub from China 
in 1804 which has not yet flowered. 

Z. Lotus , a small tree from Barbary, supposed by some . 
to be the Lote-tree of Pliny, 

Z. vulgaris, common Zizyphus, a small tree from the 
South of Europe, which flowers in August and September. 

These plants are of no beauty, and may be treated like 
Rhdmnus, 

HovE^NiA. didcis, sweet Hovenia, a shrub from Japan, 
introduced in 1812. It may be treated like Euonymus, 

Ceano^thus microphy'llus, small-leaved Ceandthus, a 
shrub from North America, flowering from June to August. 

C. africanus and glohuldsus are, like the first species, 
obscure flowering plants of no beauty, which may be treated 
like I^lex. 

Pomade' RRis apetala, petalless Pomaderris, a shrub from 
New Holland, flowering in May and June. 

P. eUlptica, oval-leaved Pomaderris, B. M. 1510, and 
P. lamgera, woolly-leaved Pomaderris, B. M. 1823, B. C. 
357, are also New Holland shrubs, flowering in May and 
June. They are of little beauty, grow in loam and leaf- 
mould, and root in sand under a glass. 

X 2 



308 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Phy^lica ericozdes, heath-leaved Phy^hca^ B. M. 224, ft 
small heath-looking shrub from the Cape, flowering from 
September to April in a warm green-house. 



P. parvifldra-. 
lanceolata. 
capitata^ B. R. 71L 
axillaris. 

plumdsa, B. C. 253. 

villdsa. 

stipularis. 

corddta. 

huxifdlia. 

spicdta, B.C. 3:23. 



P. puhescens, B. C. 695. 
eridphoros. 
rosmarini folia, 
myrtifdlia. 
callosa. 
paniculdta. 
imbricata. 

cylindrica. '[ 

racemosa. 

pinifdlia. 



These are all low heath-looking evergreens, generally 
with dull white flowers, which appear from April or May to 
September. They grow in sandy peat, and are propagated 
in the same manner as heaths^ but with much less trouble. 

BRUNIAXEiE. 

Bru^nia nodifldra, imbricated Briinia, a low shrub, with 
heath or fir-like leaves, flowering in July and August. 

B. paleacea. B. alopecuroides. 
lanygindsa^ B. C. 572. ahrotanoides, B. C. 355. 
verticilldta. superha. 

deiista. fragarioides. 
microphy'lla. cilia ta. 

Idoca. 

These are all evergreens from the Cape, handsome bushy 
plants, though without showy flowers : they all grow in peat 
soil which must not be over-watered ; and they are increased 
in the same manner as Heaths. 

Staa^vta radidta and glufindsa are Cape shrubs resem- 
bling Briinia, and requiring similar treatment. 

CassTne capensis, Cape Phillyrea. 

C. Colpodn, the Colpoon tree. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



309 



CassTne IcBvigata, smooth Cassine, are shrubs from the 
Cape, which seldom flower in this country. 

C. Maurocenia, the Hottentot Cherry, is also from the 
Cape, and flowers in July and August. 

All the species grow in loamy soil with a little peat or 
leaf-mould, and cuttings root in sand under a hand-glass. 

PRrNOs lucidus, shining Winter-berry, a frame shrub, 
flowering in June and July, which may be treated like 
Cassine. 

LEGUMINO^SiE. 

Edwa^rdsia grandifldra, large - flowered Edwardsia, 
B. M. 167. 

E. chrysdphylla, golden-leaved Edwardsia, B. C. 738, 
B. M. 1442. 

E. micTophy'lla^ small-leaved Edwardsia. 

These are pretty little frame shrubs, which grow readily 
in sandy loam, flower freely and ripen seeds, from which, 
tor from young cuttings under a bell-glass, they are usually 
propagated. 

Ana^gyris foe'tida, B. C. 740, and lafifolia, Bean Tre- 
foils, the first a frame shrub from Spain, and the other a 
green -house shrub from Teneriffe, flowering in April and 
May. They grow in loam and peat, and are increased by 
cuttings in the same soil. 

ViRGrLTA aurea^ great-floAvered Virgilia, an Abyssinian 
shrub which flowers in July. 

V. intrusa and V. capensis, B. M. 1590, Cape shrubs 
which flower from May to August. 

These are rather pretty plants, which grow in loam and 
peat, and young cuttings root in covered pots of sand. 

Cyclo^pia genistoldes, genista- leaved Cyclopia, B. M. 
1259, a Cape shrub flowering in July and August j a hand- 



310 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



some plant, which grows in sandy loam and peat, and very 
young cuttings will root in sand under a bell, care being 
taken to prevent their damping off. 

Bapti^sia. perfolidta, perfoliate Baptisia, a perennial from 
Carolina, flowering in August. It is a plant of no beauty, 
growing in peat loam, and increased by cuttings or dividing 
at the root. 

PoDALY^RiA myrtifolia, myrtle-leaved Podaly^ria. 



P. huxifolia, box-leaved, 

B. C. 649. 
P. olecefdlia, olive-leaved. 
P. hirsicta, hairy. 
P. corddfa, heart-leaved. 



P. serzcea, silky, B. M. 1923. 
P. cuneifolia, wedge-leaved. 
P. bifldra, two -flowered, 

B. M. 753. 
P. caly^ptrafa, one-flowered. 
V.styracifdlia, storax-leaved, 

B. M. 1580. 

These are all pretty Cape plants, flowering from March 
to June : they grow in loam and peat, are increased by 
ripened cuttings, and sometimes perfect seeds. 

Chorize^ma ilicifdlia, holly-leaved Chorizema. 

C. nana, dwarf, B. M. 1032. 
C. rhdmbea, few-flowered. 

These are pretty New Holland shrubs, flowering from 
February to June or later. They grow in sandy loam and 
peat, and produce abundance of seeds. 

PoDOLO^BiUM trilohhtum, B. M. 1477, a shrub from 
New South Wales, flowering from April to July ; and which 
may be treated like Chorizema. 

OxYLO^BiuM arbor escens, B. R, 392, B. C. 163, and O. 
elUpticum, are Van Diemen shrubs. 

O. cordifdlium, A. R. 494, B. M. 1544, is a New Hol- 
land shrub. The three species flower from April to August ; 
they grow in sandy loam and peat, and may be increased 
by young cuttings in sand under a bell, or by seeds which 
they sometimes ripen. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



311 



CallistaY^hys lanceolata, B. R. 216. 
C. ovata, B. M. 1925. 

These are New Holland shrubs, which flower from June 

to August 3 they grow rapidly, flower freely in loam and 

peat soil, and are readily increased by cuttings or seeds. 
Brachyse^ma latifolium, B. M. 2008, B. C. 411, B. R. 

118, a New Holland shrub, which grows freely in common 

garden soil, and flowers from April to July. 

GoMPHOLo^BiuM latifolium, broad-leaved Gompholobium. 

G. grandifldrum, large-flow- G. minus, hairy-stalked, 
ered, B. R. 484. G. tomentdsum, tomentose. 

G. marginatum, small-flow- G. veniistum, purple-flow- 
ered, ered. 

G. polymdrphum, variable, 
B. M. 1533. 

These are pretty Australasian plants, which flower from 
March to August : they grow in sandy loam and peat, and 
are increased by young cuttings in sand and covered with a 
bell-glass. 

BuRTO^NiA scdbra, rough-leaved Burtonia, is a handsome 
New Holland shrub, flowering from May to July. Sweet 
observes, that * it requires more than ordinary treatment to 
keep it in good health.' He recommends equal parts of 
sandy loam and peat, and well-drained pots. Young cut- 
tings, he says, are not difficult to root in sand under a bell- 
glass. Sometimes it ripens seeds. 

Jackso^nia scopdria, B. C. 427, and spinosa, are pretty 
New Holland plants, which flower from May to August ; 
they grow in loam and peat, and are increased by young 
cuttings in sand under a bell, or ripened cuttings in sand 
under a hand-glass. 

ViMiNA^RiA denuddta, leafless Rushbroom, B. M. 1190, 
a New Holland shrub, flowering from June to September. 



312 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



It grows in sandy loam and peat, and is increased either by 
seeds or cuttings. 

Sph^rolo^bium vimmeum, B. M. 969, and medium^ are 
pretty New Holland shrubs, flowering froni May to August : 
they grow in sandy loam and peat, and are increased by 
young cuttings in sand under a bell-glass, or by seeds. 

Ao^Tus villdsa, B. M. 969, a pretty New Holland shrub, 
flowering from May to August, which may be treated like 
SphcEToldbium. 

DiLi^WY^NiAfloribunda^ close-flowered Dillwy^nia, B. C. 
305. 

D. ericifdlia, heath-leaved. 

D. glaherrima, smooth, B. M. 944, B. C. 582. 

D. parvifdlia, small-leaved, B. M. 1527. 

These are handsome New Holland shrubs, with heath-like 
leaves, and flowering from March to June. They grow 
best in very sandy loam and peat with well-drained pots, 
and are propagated like Erica. 

EuTA^xiA myrtifdlia, B. M. 1274. This is a pretty New 
Holland shrub, flowering from March to June : it grows in 
sandy loam and peat, and as it grows fast and tall, should 
be well cut in to form it into a bushy shrub ; young cuttings 
root in sand under a glass. 

ScLEROTHA^MNUs microphy'llus, a New Holland shrub, 
flowering in May and June, which requires similar treatment 
to Eutaxia. 

Gastrolo^bium bilobum, B. R. 411, B. C. 70, a pretty 
New Holland shrub, flowering from March to May, and 
of the same culture as Eutaxia. 

EucHfLus obcorddtus, B. C. 60, B. R. 403, a pretty 
little New Holland shrub, flowering from March to June: 
it grows in sandy loam and peat, and young cuttings root in 
sand under a bell. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



313 



Pulten^'a daphnoideSy daphne-leaved PultenseX B.M. 
1394. 



P. ohcordata, heart-leaved, 

A.R. 574. 
P. scdbra, rough-leaved. 
P. retusa, blunt-leaved^ B.R. 

378. 

V.strida, upright,B-M.1588. 



P. linophy'lla, flax-leaved. 
P. paledcea, chaffy, B.C. 291. 
Y.stipuldris, scaly, B.M.475. 
P. vestita, awned. 
P. villdsa, villous, B.M. 967. 
P. flexilis, shining-leaved. 



Australasian shrubs, which flower from April and May to 
July, grow in sandy loam and peat, and are increased by 
cuttings under a bell-glass in sand. 

Davie^sia aciculdris. needle-leaved Daviesia. 



D. ulexina, furze-leaved, 
A.R. 304, B.C. 44. 

D. 'corymhosa, glaucous- 
leaved. 



D. mimosoldes, green-teaved, 

A. R. 526. 

D. latifolia, broad- leaved, 

B. M. 1757. 



These are beautiful New South Wales shrubs, flowering 
from May to August ; they grow in equal parts of sandy 
loam and peat, and cuttings when they begin to ripen root 
in sand under a bell-glass. 

MiRBE^LiA reticulata, B.M. 1211, and dilatdta, are pretty 
New Holland shrubs, flowering from May to August, which 
may be treated like Daviesia. 

Ca'ssia corymbdsa, corymbose Cassia, B. M. 633, a 
Buenos Ayres shrub, flowering in July. 

C. ruscifolia, ruscus-leaved Cassia, a Madeira shrub, 
flowering from May to Ju4y. 

C. chinensis, Chinese Cassia, a China shrub. 

C. multiglanduldsa, glandulous, a Teneriffe shrub, flower- 
ing from June to August. 

C. capensisj Cape, B.C. 511, a Cape shrub. 

C. nictifans, Virginian, a North American biennial, 
flowering in July. 



314 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



All these plants grow in loam and peat, and are increased 
from cuttings planted in sand under a hand-glass, or, from 
seeds. 

Erythri^na Aer6dcea, herbaceous Coral-tree, B.M. 877, 
a low Carolina shrub, flowering from June to September. 

E. Cdffra, Cape Coral-tree, B.C. 736, a Cape shrub in 
troduced in 1816. 

These are handsome plants ; they grow freely in a mix- 
ture of loam and peat, and cuttings somewhat ripened will 
root readily under a hand-glass in sand. 

Borbo'nia ericifolia, heath-leaved Borbonia. 



B. unduldta, wave- leaved. 
B. cordata, heart-leaved. 
B. cernata, notch -leaved, 

B.M. 274. 
flowering from July to Sep- 



B. trinervia, three-nerved. 
B. lanceoldta, many-nerved, 

B.C. 81. 
B. perfolidta, perfoliate. 

These are all Cape shrubs, 
tember, and growing freely in loam and peat, and increased 
by young cuttings in sand. 

Spa^rtium monospermum, white single-seeded Broom, 
B.M. 683. 

S. sphcerocdrpon, yellow 

single-seeded. 
S. prdcerum, tall Portugal. 
Sxongestum, close-branched 

Teneriffe. 
S. virgdtum, long- twigged 

Madeira. 
S. umbelldtum, umbelled 

Barbary. 

These shrubs are of little beauty : they grow in loam and 
peat, and young cuttings root under a bell-glass in sand. 
They often ripen seeds. 

GenTsta canariensisy Canary Genista, B.R. 217. 

G. vlscosa, clammy Genista. 



S. serzceum, silky Mogadore 
Broom. 

S. nubigenum, cluster- 
flowered. 

S. linifdlium, flax-leaved, 
B.M. 442. 

S. feroXi fierce, B.R. 368. 

S. spindsum, prickly. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 315 



These shrubs flower from May to September, and are to 
be treated hke Sparfium. 

Sebe^ckia contaminata, B.R. 102, serk*ea, and cytisoideSy 
are Cape shrubs which flower in April and May : they grow 
in loam and peat, and are increased by young cuttings in 
sand under a glass. 

Ra'fnia triflora, B.M. 482, a Cape biennial, flowering 
in June and July, which may be raised on a hot-bed and 
transplanted into any rich light soil. It is increased by 
cuttings or seeds. 

AsPALA^THus chenopbda, goose-foot Aspalathus, B.M. 
2225. 



A. dlbens, silky. 

A. pedunculdtaysmBW-lesLYed, 
B.M. 344. 

A. ericifoUa, heath-leaved. 

A. asparagoldes, asparagus- 
leaved. 

A. carnosa, fleshy-leaved, 

B.M. 1289. 
A. crassi/oZza,bristle-pointed, 

A.R. 351. 
A. cilidris, cihated, B.M. 

2233. 



A. unifldra, single-flowered. 
A. subuldta, awl-leaved. 
A. globdstty globular, A.R. 
C. ic. 

A. araneosa^ cobweb, B.M. 
829. 

A. arcjentea, silver-leaved. 
A. cdndicans, white Aspala- 
thus. 

A. calldsa, oval-spiked. 
A. mucrondta, thorny- 
branched. 



These are all Cape shrubs, growing in loam and peat, and 
increased by young cuttings in sand. They flower for the 
most part from June to August. 

Sarcophy'llum carndsum, a Cape shrub, rather succu- 
lent, flowering from May to August : it grows in sandy 
loam, and ripened cuttings root in the same soil with an 
addition of sand and covered with a glass. 

Stauraca^nthus aphy'llus, a frame shrub from Portugal, 
flowering in June and July, and which may be treated as 
Sarcophy'llum. 



316 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE, 



Amorph\ microphy'lla, pubescens, and canescens, bastard 
Indigos, frame-shrubs from North America^ flowering from 
June to August. They grow in peat and loam, and are 
increased by cuttings or layers. 

Platylo'bium formdsum^ large-flowered Flat-pea, B.M. 
469. 

P. parvifldrum, small-flowered Flat-pea, B.M. 1520. 

P. triangulares triangular-leaved Flat-pea, B.M. 1508. 

Australasian shrubs of some beauty, which may be treated 
like Aspaldthus above. 

Bossi^^A Scolopendriumy plank-plant Bossise^a, B.R. 191. 
B. ruffa, red-flowered. B. cinerea, downy sharp- 

B. heterophy'Ua, various- leaved^, B.R. 306. 

leaved, B.M. 1144. B. microp/i^/'Z/a, small-leaved, 

B.linophy'Ua^narrowAeaxed. B.M. 862. 
B. prostrdtay procumbent, 

B.M. 1493. 

Australasian shrubs, which maybe treated as Aspalathus ; 
they flower chiefly in May, June, and July. 

Sco^TTiA dentata, a New Holland shrub, which flowers 
from June to September. Culture as in Asj^aldthus. 

Templeto^nia retusa, B.R. 383, B.C. 526, a New Hol- 
land shrub, which flowers from March to June, and is 
treated like Scdttia or Aspaldthus. 

Goo^DiA lotifolia, B.M. 958, B.C. 696, and puhescens, 
B.M. 1310, are shrubs from Van Diemen's Land which 
flower from April to July, and are grown in loam and peat, 
and increased by young cuttings in sand under a glass. 

Loddige'^sia oxalidifolia, B.M. 965, a Cape shrub, 
flowering from May to September. Culture as in Goddia. 

WiBo'^RGiA sericea, a Cape shrub, flowering in July and 
August. Culture as in Goddia above. 

Crotala^ria cordifdlia, purpurea^ B.R. 128, pulchella^ 
B.M, 1699, incanescenSf and angustifdlia, are Cape shrubs. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 317 



flowering in July and August ; of the usual culture in loam, 
and peat, and propagation by young cuttings in sand. 

Ho'vEA. linearis, B.R. 463, longifolia, B.R. 614, lanceo- 
lata, B.M. 1624^ and ovdtay are New Holland shrubs, 
flowering from March till August or later. 

Ono'nis cernutty hanging-podded. 

O. vaginalis, sheathed-podded. 

O.^m^ms, greasy. 

O. Natrix, yellow shrubby, B.M. 329. 

O. hispdnica, tridentata, and crispa, are low shrubs from 
the Cape, Egypt, and the South of Europe: they are of 
no beauty, grow in loam and peat, and are increased by 
seeds or young cuttings in sand. 

Anthy'llis sericea, winged-leaved Kidney- vetch, a bien- 
nial from Barbary, flowering in July and August. 

A. Barba-Jdvisy Jupiter's-beard Kidney-vetch, B.M. 
1927. 

A. cretica, B. M. 1092, heterophy'lla, cytisoides, and 
trayacanthoides, are green-house shrubs from the South of 
Europe, flowering from April to July. 

A. Hermannice and Erinacea, B.C. 318, are frame-shrubs 
from the South of Europe, also flowering from April to July. 

All these are pretty plants, which grow in loam and peat, 
and seed freely, or they may be increased by young cuttings 
in sand under a bell-glass. 

Lupi'nus villdsus and arbdreus, B.M. 682, the first a 
perennial and the other a shrubby Lupin from North 
America : they flower in July and August, grow in sandy 
loam, and are increased by seeds 

Do'ltchos hirsidus, reiiculatus, and ligndsiis, B.M. 380, 
are twining East Indian shrubs, which grow in sandy loam, 
and are increased by cuttings in the same soil, by cuttings 
of the root, or by seeds : they flower in July and August. 

Glyci'ne angustifdlia and bituminosa, B.C. 261, are 



318 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



green-house shrubby twiners, and G. renifdrmis is a frame 
perennial twiner, from the Cape and America ; they may be 
treated as Ddlichos. 

Kenne'dia rubicunda, B.M. 268, coccinea, prostrata^ 
B.M. 210, Comptoniana, (Glycine Compt. B.R. 298,) and 
monophy^lla, B.M. 263, are New Holland shrubby twiners, 
flowering from March to August, and of the same culture 
as Ddlichos, 

Vi'ciA capensis and pellucida are Cape perennials, which 
grow in peat soils, and are increased by dividing at the root 
or by seeds. 

Ltpa'ria sphcB^rica, B.M. 1241, B.C. 642, capitatai 
tomentdsa, vestita, A.R. 382, B.M. 2223, graminifoliat 
villdsa^ hirsicta, B.C. 38, B.R. 8, and serzcea, are Cape 
shrubs, which flower from June to August, grow in loam and 
peat, and are increased by very young cuttings in sand under 
a bell. 

Cy^tisus tomentdsus, A.R. 237, folioldsus, B.M. 426, 
nanus and prollferus, B.R. 121, are green-house shrubs, 
and C. divaricdtus, B.M. 1387, is a frame-shrub, flowering 
from May to August, growing in loam and peat, and in- 
creased by seeds or young cuttings in sand. 

SwAiNso^NiA galegifdlia, B.M. 792, and coronillifdlid, 
B.M. 1725, are New South Wales shrubs^ flowering in 
July and August, growing in loam and peat, and increased 
by young cuttings in sand under a bell-glass. 

SuTHERLA^NDiA frutesceus, B.M. 181, is a Cape shrub, 
flowering in June and July, which may be treated as 
Swainsdnia. 

Lesse^rtia annua and diffusa are Cape annuals, which 
may be sown in peat, and transplanted into pots of light 
rich earth for the green-house ; and L. perennans is a Cape 
perennial, which flowers in August, grows in sandy loam, 
and is increased by cuttings or dividing at the root. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 319 



Cono'Si' LL\ juncea, B.C. 23^, glauca^ B.M. 13, argentea, 
viminalis, and valentma, B.M. 185, are showy yellow- 
flowered shrubs from the South of Europe, flowering the 
greater part of the year, and growing in any sandy soil. 
C. coronata, B.C. 907, and minima, B.M. 2179, are peren- 
nials from the South of Europe, of easy culture in sandy 
loam, and, like all the species, increased by seeds or cut- 
tings. 

Hippocre'pis baledrica, B.M. 427, a Minorca shrub, 
flowering in May and June, growing in sandy loam, and in- 
creased by young cuttings in the same soil. 

Ha' LLi A Jldccida is a Cape biennial, H. corddta, a Cape 
perennial, and H. imhricdta, B.M. 1850, B.C. 381, a Cape 
shrub ; all flowering in August, growing in sandy loam, and 
increased by cuttings, seeds, or dividing at the root. 

Lespede^za lagopodioides, a Chinese perennial, flowering 
in May and June, of common culture. 

Hedy'sarum Alhdgi, a Levant shrub, flowering from 
July to August. 

H. tomenfdsum, a China perennial, flowering in June and 
July. 

H. muricdtum, a frame-shrub from Patagonia, flowering 
in June and July. 

All these plants thrive in any rich light soil, and seed 
abundantly, from which, or from young cuttings, they are 
readily propagated. 

li^DiGo^FER A Jilifdlia, B.R. 104. 

I. psoraloides, B.M. 476. 
I. cdndicansy B.M. 198. 

I. amoena, incdna, sarmentosa, denuddta, B.C. 500, 
microphy'lla, coridcea, cytisoides, B.M. 742, angustifdlia, 
B.M. 465, and australis, B.C. 149, are Cape, Indian, or 
Australasian shrubs, which grow in sandy loam and gene- 
rally ripen seeds, from which, or from young cuttings in 



320 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



sand, they are usually propagated. They flower from July 
to August, and I. microphy'lla all the year. 

Tephrosia grandifldra, stridciy and pollens^ are Cape 
shrubs, flowering in May and June, which may be treated 
like Indigdfera. 

Astra' GALUs tomentdsus and Chinensis, an Egyptian and 
Chinese perennial, which flower in June and July, grow in 
sandy loam, and are increased by dividing at the root or by 
seeds. 

Da'lea Lagdpus, a Mexican annual, which flowers in 
October and November, and may be raised on heat, and 
then transplanted into small pots of light rich soil for the 
green-house. 

VsoRA^L-E k pinndta, A. R. 474. 



P. odoratissima. 
P. verrucosa. 

P. aculeata.B.R. 146, B. M. 
2158. 

P. bradedta, B. M. 446. 
P. spicdta, A. R. 411. 
P. aphy'lla, B. M. 1727, 
B. C. 221. 

P. multicaidis. 
P. ienuifolia. 



P. decumhenst B. C. 282. 

P. hirta. 

P. Stdchyos. 

P. repens. 

P. bitumindsa. 

P. glanduldsa, B. M. 990. 

P. pedunculdta, B. R. 228. 

P. palcestina. 

P. amerkdna. 

P. capitdta. 



Most of these are Cape shrubs flowering from May to 
August : they grow in loam and peat, and are increased by 
young cuttings or seeds which they ripen freely. 

Lo^TUs glaiicus is a Madeira biennial, and L. anthylloldes 
a Cape shrub, both flowering in July and August ; and L. 
austrdlis, B. M. 1365, is a New Holland shrub flowering 
from May to September. Culture as in Psordlea. 

L. jacobcB^ns, B. M. 79, is a Cape Verd shrub, valuable 
as flowering all the year. 

L. creticus, and L. hirsutus, B. M. 336, are shrubs from 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



321 



the South of Europe, which flower from July to August. 
These require peat and loam as a soil. 

Lo^Tus odordtus, B. M. 1233, is a Barbary perennial, 
which grows in sandy soil and is increased by dividing at 
the root. 

DoRY^CNiuM monspeliense, a shrub from the south of Eu- 
rope, which flowers from July to September, grows in sandy 
loam, and is increased by young cuttings in sand under a 
bell-glass. 

Medica^go arbdreay a frame shrub from Italy, which 
grows in any light soil, and is increased by cuttings or seeds 
which it produces in abundance. 

ScHRA^NKiA uncindta, a North American perennial of 
common culture in any loamy soil. 

Aca'cia verticilldta, B. M. 110, B. C. 535. 



A. junipermQi B. C. 398. 
A. aciculdris, 
A. sulcata. 

A. sauvedlens, B. C. 730. 

A. glaucescens. 

A. floribunda. 

A. linifdlia, A. R. 394. 

A. strtcta, A. R. 53, B. C. 

99, B. M. 1121. 
A. longifolia, A. R. 207, 

B. C. 678. 
A. falcdta. 

A. melandxylon, B. M. 1659, 

B. C. 630. 
A. Sophdr(B, 
A. margindta. 
A. myrtifdlia, B. M. 302. 
A. hispidiila, 

A. decipiens, B, M, 1745. 



A. bifldra. 

A. armafa, B. M. 1653, 

B. C. 49. 
A. alafa, B. R. 396. 
A. pulchella, B. C. 212. 
A. cilidta. 

A. nigricans, B. M. 2188, 

B. C. 313. 
A. pubescens, B. M. 1263. 
A. lophdntha, A. R. 563, 

B. R. 361, B. C. 716, 

B. M. 2108. 
A. glanduldsa. 
A. deciirrens, B. R. 371. 
A. reticulata. 
A. Cdffira. 

A. discolor, A. R. 235, B.C. 
601. 



322 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



These are valuable shrubs for the green-house^ many of 
them flowering from Christmas to April. They are chiefly 
from Australasia and the Cape ; but one or two are from 
America, viz. A. glanduldsa and brachyldba, the latter a 
perennial from Illinois. All the species thrive in loam, 
peat, and sand ; most of them root by cuttings of the 
young wood under a bell-glass in sand, and plunged in 
heat. But some kinds do not root readily from cuttings, 
and these, Mr. Sweet informs us, ' may be increased by 
taking off" roots, as large pieces as can be spared, and plant- 
ing them in the same kind of soil as the old plants, when 
they should be plunged under a hand-glass in a little bottom 
heat. Most of the kinds might be propagated by that 
means. Bot. Cult. 126. 

GLEDrxscHiA sinensis, a frame shrub from China, grows 
in sandy loam, and is increased by young cuttings under a 
bell in sand. 

Cerato^nia siliqua, the St. John's Bread or Carob-tree, 
A. R. 567i a shrub from Spain and the Levant, which grows 
in light soil, and roots in sand under a bell-glass. Its seeds 
(beans) in Spain are used as horse-corn, and even by the 
common people in times of dearth. 

ROSAT.E^. 

AciE'^NA latebrosa, a Cape perennial flowering from April 
to June, of common culture. 

Amygda^lus orientdlis, silvery-leaved Almond, a Levant 
shrub flowering in March and April, and propagated by cut- 
tings or grafting on A. nana. 

Pru^nus japdnica, Japan Plum, B. H. 27, a low tree, 
flowering from March to May. 

P. prostrdta, birch-leaved Plum, B. R. 136, a frame 
shrub from Crete, flowering in April and May. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 323 



These plants grow in loamy soil, and ripened cuttings 
root freely in sand under a hand-glass. 

Chrysobala''nus oblongifoliiis, American cocoa Plum, 
a low tree from Georgia. Culture as in Prunus. 

Me^spilus IcEvis, glabra, and indica, B. M. 1726, are 
Chinese shrubs, which flower from April to July. 

M. arhutifoUa is a handsome shrub from California, flow- 
ering in July and August. 

Eriobo^trya japdnica, the Loquat, is a low tree from 
Japan, flowering in October, and bearing an edible berry or 
pome. 

The culture of these plants is the same as in Prunus. 

CYDo^m A japdnica, B. M. 622, and speciosa, are hand- 
some flowering frame-shrubs from Japan ; the first flowers 
in May and June, and the other all the year. Culture as in 
Prunus. 

Ro^SA herherifolia, berberry-leaved Rose, a frame shrub 
from Persia, flowering in June and July. 

R. BdnksicB, Lady Banks's Rose, B. M. 1954, B. R. 397, 
a Chinese evergreen shrub flowering in June and July, 

R. sinica, three-leaved China Rose, a low frame-shrub 
from China, flowering from May to July. 

R. semperfldrens, ever-blowing Rose, single and double, 
B. M. 284, a shrub from China, which in a warm green- 
house flowers all the year. 

R. Lauranceana, Miss Laurance's Rose, B. M. 1762, 
B. R. 538, a shrub from the Mauritius, flowering all the 
year. 

R. odorata, sweet Chinese Rose, flowering from February 
to August. 

These beautiful shrubs grow in light rich soil, and are in- 
creased by cuttings of ripened wood in the same soil, with 
the addition of sand. 

Ru'bus rosdBfolius, rose-leaved Bramble, double and 

Y 2 



324 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



single varieties, B. M. 1783, flowering from October to 
April. 

K. pinndtus, pinnate Bramble, a Cape shrub flowering 
in June and July. 

These plants require similar soil and treatment to the Rose. 

PoTE^RiuM cauddtum is a Canary shrub which flowers 
from January to April. 

P. spindsum, a Levant shrub flowering from April to 
August. 

These plants are of no beauty : they, grow in any rich 
light soil, and are increased by young cuttings in the same 
soil under a hand-glass. 

Cliffo^rtia cunedta, ilicifdlia, tridentdfa, ruscifdlia, ci- 
nerea pulchellaj crendta, ericcBfdlia, obcordata, trifolidta, 
and sarmentosa, are Cape shrubs, flowering from May to 
August ; the whole of them grow in loam and peat and are 
increased by young cuttings in sand. Only two or three 
are worth culture, as forming neat bushes and being ever-: 
greens. 

SALICA^RE^. 

Ly^trhum alatum, B. M. 1812, a North American per- 
ennial, flowering from May to November, growing in loamy 
soil, and increased by cuttings or division at the root. 

Cu^PHEA viscoshsima and procumbens, B. R. 182, an Ame- 
rican biennial and annual^, which may be raised in heat, and 
transplanted into small pots. They grow in any light rich , 
soil, and increase by cuttings or seeds. 

MELASTOMAXE^. 

Rhe^xta cilidsa, a frame perennial from Carolina, which 
grows in loam and peat, and is increased by dividing at the 
root: it flowers from June to August. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 325 



MYRTA^CEiE. 



flowering 



from 



BiE^CKiA frutescens, a Chinese shrub, 
October to December. 

B. virgdta, A. R. 598, and densifdlia, shrubs from New 
South Wales, flowering from August to October. These 
are pretty and very hardy plants ; they grow in loam and 
peat, and are increased by young cuttings in sand, under a 
bell-glass. 

Leptospe'^rmum scoparium, New Zealand Tea, A. R. 622* 



L. flavescens. 
h. atteniidtum. 
L. lamgerum. 
L. pubescens. 

L. grandifolium, B M. 1810, 

B. C. 701. 
L. parvifdlium. 



L. sfelldtum. 
L. arachnoideum, 
L. junipermum. 
L. baccdfum. 
L. imhricatum. 
L. triloculare. 
L. ambtguum. 



Shrubs from New South Wales, flowering in May, June, 
and July ; grown in loam and peat, and increased by 
cuttings of young wood in pots of sand. 

Fabri^cia myrtifdlia and IcBvigata, B. M. 1304, New 
Holland shrubs, flowering in May and June, of common 
culture in loam and peat. 

MRTROSrDEROS /l?'spfc?«, B. C. 106. 



M. floribunda. 
M. costdta. 
M. glomultfera. 
M. angustifdlia. 
M. margindta. 
M. linearis. 



M. pinnifolia. 
M. viminalis. 
M. saligna, B. M. 1821. 
M. lanceolafa, B. M. 260. 
M. speciosa, B. M. 1761, 
B. C. 285. 



Shrubs from New South Wales, and one, M. angustifd- 
lia, from the Cape : they flower at different periods from 
March to June ; and M. lanceoldta flowers from November 
till June. 



326 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



EuGE^NiA eUzptica, B. M. 1872, a shrub from New South 
Wales, flowering from May to October. 

Myr^tus communis, common Myrtle, a well-known shrub 
from the South of Europe, of which there are the following 
varieties in cultivation. 



M. communis romana^ broad- 
leaved Myrtle. 

M. communis tarentlnttf box- 
leaved. 

M. communis italica, upright 
M. communis hce^tica, orange- 
leaved. 

M. communis lusiidnicai, Por- 



M. communis b^lgica, broad - 

leaved Dutch. 
M. communis mucronata, 

rosemary-leaved. 
M. tomentosa, woolly-leaved, 

B. M. 250, a Chinese 

shrub, flowering in June 

and July. 



tugal. 

All the species are of easy culture in sandy loam and 
leaf-mould. 

EucALY^PTUs robusta. 
E. rostrata. 
E. piluldris. 
E. tereticdrnis. 
E. resimfera, A. R. 400. 
E. marginata. 
E. capitellata. 
E. saligna. 
E. globulus. 

These are Australasian shrubs, but few of which have 
flowered in this country : they all grow in loamy soil with a 
little leaf-mould, and are increased by young cuttings in 
sand under a bell-glass. 

Pu^NiCA nana, dwarf Pomegranate, B. M. 634, a West 
Indian shrub, flowering from July to September. 

This shrub grows in any light soil, and is easily increased 
by half-ripened cuttings in sandy loam under a hand- 
glass. 



E. botryotdes, 
E. hcemastdma. 
E. piperita^ 
E. obltqua. 
E. corymbdsa. 
E. paniculdta. 
E. cornuta. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 327 



Melaleu^ca viridifldra. 
M. paluddsa. 
M. globtfera. 

M. diosmifdlia, A. R. 476. 
M. styphiloides. 
M. genistifoUa. 
M. striata. 
M. thymoldes. 

M.squamea, B.li.477,B.C. 

412. 
M. nodosa. 
M. ericifolia. 
M. armillaris, A. R. 175. 
M. uncindta. 



M. scdbra. 

M. pulchella, B. C. 200. 
M. thymifdlia, B. M. 1868, 

B. C. 439. 
M. decussata. 

M. fiilgens, B. R. 103, B.€. 

378. 
M. linariifdlia. 
M. hypericifolia, A. R. 200, 

B. C. 199. 
M. squarrosa, B. M. 1935. 
M. calycma. 
M. densa. 



These are all Australasian shrubs, flowering from June or 
July to September, and growing in loam and peat. Cut- 
tings of the young wood root freely in sand under bell- 
glasses. 

Trista^nia nereifdlia, B. M. 1058, B. C. 157, laurma 
and conferta, are shrubs from New South Wales, flowering 
from June to September, growing in loam and peat, and 
increased by half-ripened cuttuigs in the same soil under a 
hand-glass. 

Calotha^mnus quadrifida, B. M. 1506, B. C. 737, vil- 
Idsa, B. C. 92, and gracilis, are New Holland shrubs, flow- 
ering from June to September. They may be treated as 
Tristdnia. 

Beaufo^rtia decussata, B. R. 18, and spdrsa, are New 
Holland shrubs, which may be treated like Calothdmnus or 
Tristdnia. 



CUCURBITA^CEiE. 



hiT A ^os'tida, B. M. 1638, a frame annual from India, 



328 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



flowering from Jane to October. It should be raised in 
heat, and then transplanted into any light rich soil. 

Tricosa^nthes angmna, common Snake-gourd, B. M. 
722, a frame annual from China, flowering in May and 
June. 

T. cucumerina, cucumber-like Snake-gourd, a frame- 
annual from the East Indies, flowering in June and July, 
and succeeded by cucumber like fruit. 

These plants thrive best when treated like the common 
cucumber. 

Cu'cuRBiTA aurantia^ and Citricllus, and Cu'cumis of its 
various species, though frame plants, belong more properly 
to culinary than ornamental gardening. 

LOA^SEiE. 

Barto'nia orndta, B. M. 1487, and nuda, are biennials 
from Missouri, flowering from July to September : they 
grow in any light rich soil, and are increased by cuttings or 
seeds. 

Mentze'lia oligosperma, B. M. 1760, a perennial from 
Louisiana, flowering in May and June ; growing in loamy 
soil, and increased as are other perennials. 

ONAGRARE^. 

OEnothe'ra nocturna and villdsa, Cape biennials, which 
flower from April to June. 

CE. rosea, B. M. 347, a perennial from Peru, which 
flowers from May to August. 

These are showy plants, of easy culture in sandy loam, 
and increased by seeds, cuttings, or dividing the root. 

Gau'ra mutahilis, B. M. 388, a frame biennial, from 
South America, which flowers in July and August, and is 
easily cultivated and increased in light soil. ^ 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



329 



Epilo'bium villdsum, a Cape perennial, flowering in July 
and August, of easy culture, and increased in any loamy 
sandy soil. 

JussiEU^A grandifldra, a perennial from Carolina, flower- 
ing from July to October, and growing in sandy loam, 

Monti'nia caryophyllacea is a Cape shrub, flowering in 
July : it grows in sandy loam, and is readily increased by 
cuttings beginning to ripen. 

FICOrDEiE. 

Gli'nus lotoldes, an annual from the South of Europe, 
which may be raised on heat in any light soil : it flowers in 
July, and seeds freely. 

Tetragon' lA expansa, crystallina, fndicdsa^ decumbenSi 
tetrapteris, spicafa, herbacea, and echinata, are Cape shrubs 
and herbs of no beauty : the first species, a native of New 
Zealand, is cultivated as a Spinach : all of them are succu- 
lent in their leaves, grow in sandy soil, and are increased 
by cuttings or seeds, with the greatest ease. 

Of the genus Mesembry^anthemum there are nearly a 
hundred species, in addition to those we have given below ; 
but as few of these have found their way into the commer- 
cial gardens of this country, we have preferred a selection 
of those which may be purchased at the principal nurseries. 
Whoever wishes to see the finest collection of this family of 
plants in Europe, must visit the gardens of the Prince Salm- 
Dyck, near Anhalt. From the Hortus Dychensis we have 
selected some of the following names^ as preferable to those 
in common use here : — 

Mesembrya'nthemum Mesembrya^ nthemum 



cordifolium 
Hmpidum 
Aitdnis 
anafomicum 



iortvdaum 



ejcpaiimm 
lunnifusnrn 



330 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Mesembrya* nthemum 
Trips Hum 
sessilifldrum 
lanceolatum 
Idreum 
dubium 
puhescens 
pervlride 
edule 

subuldium 

leBvigdtum 

diminutum 

pugionifdrme 

elongdtum 

capitdtum 

diver si folium 

corniculdtum 

tricoldrum 

acinacifdrme 

ruhro-cinctum 

dimididtum 

(Bqvilaterdle 

crassifolium 

virescens 

Jilamentdsum 

spectdbile 

austrdle 

consplcuum 

rubricaule 

serruldtwn 

sarmentdsum 

glaucescens 

minimum 

cyltndricum 

quadrifi'^dum 

hibractcdtum 



Mesembrya' nthemum 
miniitum 
bifi'dum 
compdctum 
teretifdlium 
teretiiisculum 
obcordellum 
truncatellum 
JibulifdrmQ 
nucifdrme 
testicular e 

ssum 
ohtiisum 
calamifdrme 
pellidifldrum 
acutum 
pisifdrme 
monilifdrme 
digitdtum 
robustum 
luteo-viride 
crucidtum 
gibbdsum 
diffdrme 
heterophy'llum 
semicylindricum 
glomerdtum 
mutdbile 
inclaiidens 
marginatum 
spindsum 
deciimbens 
falcifdrme 
jmlchellum 
7nicrophy'llum 
deltoidcs 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



331 



Mesembrya'nthemum 
caulescens 
■ muricatum 
mucrondtum 
falcdtum 
confertufn 
stipulaceum 
Hawdrthii 
maculdtum 
hirtellum 
emargindtum 
temdfdlium 
versicolor 
deflexum 
pulverulentum 
jioribundum 
echindtum 
hirsutum 
stelligerum 
stridtum 
hhpidum 
mlcans 
polydnthon 
retrofleocum 
scdbrum 
barbdtum 
subglobdsum 
brevifdlium 
speciosum 
nodi fid rum 
caducum 
apetalum 
tuberosum 
splendem 
spiiLifcrum 
flcxudsum 



Mesembrya^ nthemum 
grossum 
micrdiithon 
viridifldrum 
reflexum 
nitidum 
fastigidium 
canaliculdtum 
cilidtum 
vdldsum 
junceum 
brachidtum 
genicuUfidrum 
dnceps 
virgdtum 
stelldtum 
JiUcaule 
mdximmn 
compressum 
curvifdliwn 
heteropetalum 
serrdtum 
aduncum 
spinifdrme 
lacerum 
depressum 
adscendens 
Ion gum 
dlbidum 
prceplngue 
Ungucefdnnc 
cdnum 
scalprdlum 
rujescens 
Idlum 

dolabrifdnnc 



332 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Mesembrya' nthemum 
hicoldrvm 
horizonidle 
verruculdtum 
granifdrme 
noctifldrum 
aurdntium 
aiireum 
glaucum 
strictum 
mo' 

fttramineum 

purpureo-crdceum 

coccineum 

cymhifdrme 

Heliantholdes 

pinnati/i' dum 

crystalllnum 

gldhrum 

pomerididnum 

folio sum 

radidtum 

rigidum 



MeSEMBRYa' NTHEMUM 

viride 

tenellum 

farviflorum 

gemindtum 

hractedtum 

tumidiilum 

nmhelldtum 

m}dtifldrum 

forjicdtvm 

uncindtum 

perfolidtum 

curium 

vagindtum 

imbricdtum 

vulpinum 

denticuldtum 

ramuldsum 

murinum 

tigrinum 

caninum 

felinum 



The culture of Mesemhryanthemum is of the easiest 
kind, and has been already detailed in describing a few 
select species for a choice assortment in a small green- 
house, Part I. 

Aizoo^N canariense, A. R. 201, glinoldes, hispa?iicum, 
and lanceolaturriy are Cape and South of Europe succu- 
lents, of no beauty, and of the easiest possible culture. 

Reaumu'ria hypericoldes, a frame-shrub from Syria, 
flowering from July to October, which grows in sandy soil, 
and is increased by cuttings in the same soil. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 333 



CRASSULAXE^. 

Laro'chea falcata, coccmea, B. M. 495, cymdsa, flava, 
and odoratzssima, A. R. 26, Cape Succulents, which grow 
in sandy soil or lime-rubbish, requiring little water^ and pro- 
pagating freely by cuttings, which^ after being taken off and 
prepared, should be left a day to dry up their wounds 
before being planted. 



SSULA 


Gra'ssula 


ramosa 


margindlis ; 


arborescens, B. M. 384 


spathuldta ■> 


tetragdna 


cultrdta, B. M. 1940 


Idctea, B, M. 1771, B.C. 


obvalldta 


735 


nudicdlis 


scahra 


tomentdsa 


pellucida 


Cotyledon 


corddta, B. C. 359 


lineolata 


moschdta 


orbicularis 


glabra 


centauroldes, B. M. 1765 


retrojlexa 


dichotdma 


expdnsa 


glomerdia 


perfolidta 


Alooides 


mollis 


capitella 


acutifolia 


spdrsa 


obllqua 


diffusa 


cilidta . 


versicolor, B.R. 320, B. C. 


unduldta, B. C. 584 


433 


columndris 


cocclnea, B. M. 495, B. C. 


imbricdta 


486 


punctdta 





The culture of this tribe of succulents has been already 
given at length in Part I . 

Se'ptas capensis, a. R. 99, globifera, B. M. 1472, and 
umbella, are Cape perennial succulents, which may be 
treated as Lardchea. 



334 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



CoTYLE^DON ovhiculata, ovata, B. M. 321, obldnga, 
ramosissima, fascicularis, hemisphce^rica, spuria, and 
ccsspifdsa, are Cape succulents of little beauty. See 
Part I. 

Se'dum divaricatum^ spindsum, and nudum, are succu- 
lents of the easiest culture, but without being worth culti- 
vating. 

Sempervi'vum arbdreurrif B. R. 99, and S. a. variegatum, 
are curious little succulent trees^ both of which may be 
admitted in a select green-house. When they flower it is 
from December to March. 

S. canariense, glutindsum, B. R. 278, B. M. 1963, glan^ 
duldsum, ciliatum, B. M. 1978, tortudsum, B. M. 296, stel- 
laturuy africanum, dodrantale, and monanthos, B. M. 93, are 
succulents from Madeira, Teneriffe, and other islands, of 
the easiest culture. 

PORTULAXE^. 

PoRTULACA^RiA «/m, African Purslane-tree, a handsome 
little succulent tree, with a reddish-tinged bark. It is of the 
easiest culture in sandy loam_, or lime rubbish and a little 
leaf-mould. 

Li'meum africanum, a Cape perennial, a succulent-leaved 
plant of easy culture. 

Anacampse^ros rotundifolia, B. C. 591, arachnozdes, 
B. M. 1368, ruhens, fllamentosa, B. M. 1367, and lanceo- 
Idta, are Cape succulents of no beauty, but of the easiest 
culture. 

These plants may be propagated by leaves. Take them 
off when full grown and hardened a little, and with the 
whole of their petioles, then let them dry a few days to heal 
the wound ; after that plant them up to the base of the leaf 
in sandy soil, and they will root and shoot out young plants 
from the lower end of the petiole. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 335 



CA^CTEiE. 

Ce^reus flagelliformis, B.M. 17, a creeping succulent 
from Peru, without leaves, but with fine deep red flowers. 

C. specioshsimus, large and beautiful flowers. 

Epiphy^llum specidsa, pale red showy flowers. 

Ca^ctus opuntia^ Indian Fig, B. M. 1577, a prickly suc- 
culent from the South of Europe, which has no beauty in 
its flowers, but produces a fruit sometimes eaten by con- 
noisseurs. 

These plants are of the easiest culture in dry rich soil. 

SAXIFRA^GEiE. 

Hydra^ngea hortensis, B.M. 438, a frame undershrub. 
from China which produces very showy flowers from April 
to October. It requires a light rich soil, large pots^ to be 
often shifted and parted, and abundance of water when in a 
growing state. 

H. quercifolia, B. M. 975, a frame-shrub from Florida, 
of much less beauty than the other, but requiring similar 
treatment to cause it to flower freely. 

Saxifra'ga sarmentosa, B. M. 92, is a perennial, with 
succulent leaves and very productive of red stolones, from 
China : it grows in sandy soil, and its stolones and plantlets 
hang down from the pot in a singular and pleasing manner. 
It flowers in June and July, and is very hardy. 

There is a number of frame-plants which belong to this 
genus, but they are chiefly natives of Britain and Switzer- 
land, and are, in correct language, frame Alpines. They do 
not therefore belong to the green-house. 

Tiare'lla biterndta, a frame-perennial from Carolina, 
which flowers in May and June, and grows readily in loam 
with a little peat. 



336 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



CUNONIA^CEiE. 
Cuno'nia capmsis, a Cape shrub. 

Callico'ma serratifdlia, A.K. 566, a shrub from New; 
South Wales, flowering. in May and June. 

ARALIAXE.E. 

Cusso'nia thyrsifldra and spicdta, Cape shrubs, which 
have not yet flowered in this country. 

CAPRIFOLIA^CEiE. 

LoNi'cERA sempervlrens minor, B.R; 556, B.M. 1753. 
L. flava, B.M. 1318, B.C. 338. 
L. japdnica, B.R. 70. 
L. flexudsa, B.R. 712. 

The two first of these are American, and the two last 
Chinese, twining frame-shrubs, of great beauty and fra- 
grance, grown in loam and peat, and increased by cuttings. 

Vibu'rnum rugdsum, B. R. 376, B.M. 2082, a Canary 
evergreen shrub, of great beauty and easy culture in loam 
and peat. 

UMBELLrPEREiE. 

Hydroco'tyle asiatica, repanda, ?ind villdsa, are per- 
ennials from the Cape and North America, of common 
culture. 

Bupleu'rum scorzonercefblium and nudum, are Cape per- 
ennials of no beauty, but of the easiest culture. 

B. coridceum, fruticescens, canescens, spinbsum, and^ 
diffdrme, are South of Europe and African shrubs of no 
beauty, but of easy culture in sandy loam. 

Co^NiuM rigens and africdnum are perennials. Cape 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 337 



Hemlock's ugly plants, as easily grown as the common 
weeds of that name. 

Seli^num deciplens is a low Madeira shrub of no beauty, 
but of easy culture. 

Peuceda^num aureum, a biennial from the Canaries, of 
the usual culture. 

Cri^thmum latifoliiim, Canary Samphire, a biennial, 
which grows in sand and lime rubbish, and is increased by 
seeds or cuttings. 

Bu'bon maceddnimm, Gdlbanurriy Icevigdtum, and gum- 
mzferum, are ugly plants from Greece and the Cape ; they 
are grown in sandy soil, and increased by seeds and some- 
times by division of the root. B. Galbanum affords the 
gum of that name by inspissating the juice of the root. 

He'rmas depauperata and gigdntea are Cape perennials 
of the usual culture. 

Arcto'pus echindtiis, a Cape perennial which may be 
classed with Hermas. 

COMPOSITE. 

Lia'tris odoratissima, A. R. 638, a Carolina perennial of 
the usual culture in loamy soil. 

MiKA^NiA scdndens, a climbing perennial from North 
America, of the easiest culture. 

Eupato'rium urticcBfdliumj a frame perennial from North 
America, of no beauty. 

Agera'tum coelestmmn, B. M. 1730, B. C. 623, a low, 
blue, flowering shrub of little beauty and the easiest cul- 
ture. 

Ste'via salicifdlia, a frame perennial from Mexico, an 
ugly plant, which grows in loam and peat. 

Cephalopho^ra glauca, a frame perennial from Chih, of 
the usual culture. 

z 



338 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Hymenopa'ppus tenuifoliusy a frame biennial from Loui- 
siana, of the usual culture. 

Melananthe^ra hastdta, and hastata pandurdtat peren- 
nials from North America which grow in loam and peat, 
and are increased by cuttings or dividing at the root : their 
leaves are their only recommendation. 

Marsha^ LLiA lanceoldta and latifblia, frame perennials 
from Carolina, of common culture. 

Bi^DENS heterophy'lla, a perennial from Mexico, of com- 
mon culture in sandy loam. 

Caca' LI a papillaris. 



C. Anteuphdrbium. 
C. Klemia, 
C. Ficoides. 
C. carndsa. 
C. repens. 



C. Hawbrthi. 
C. articuldta. 
C. tomentdsa. 
C. appendiculdta. 
C. scandens. 



These are low spongy succulents with yellow flowers, by 
no means desirable for the green-house. They may be 
treated like other succulents. 

Pique^ria trinervia, a Mexican perennial of no beauty. 

Chrysoco'ma comaurea, B. M. 1972. 

C. cernua. 

C. cilidris. 

C. scdbra. 

C. denticuldta. 

Ugly, yellow-flowering, chamomile-like undershrubs, 
easily grown, and increased in sandy soil. 

Tarchona'nthus camphorcitus, B. C. 382, a low spongy 
Cape shrub of no beauty ; it grows in sandy loam, and is 
readily increased by cuttings. 

Hu'mea elegans, a biennial from New South Wales, of 
some beauty, and of the usual c\ilture. 

Ixo'^DiA achillcBozdes, B. M. 1534, a low shrub from New 
Holland, of the usual culture. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



339 



Athana'sia capitata. 
A. pubescens, A. filifdrmis. 

A. dentata, A. crithmifolia. 

A. trifurcata. A. parmjldra. 

A. virgata. A. pedinata. 

A. tomentosa. 

Low spongy Cape shrubs, of easy culture in sandy k)am. 

Balsami^ TA ageratifdlia, a low spongy shrub from Candia, 
which grows in sandy loam, and is increased by cuttings in 
the same soil. 

Tanace'tum linifdlium and svffrutlcdsum, low spongy 
shrubby Tansy plants from the Cape, of the easiest culture 
in light soil. 

Artemi^sia judalca, valentlna, subcanescens, tenuifdlia, 
argentea, palmata, chamcBmifdlia, and indica, are frame 
and green-house spongy shrubs and half herbs, of no beauty, 
and growing in light soil. 

Spira^lepis squarrdsa. 
S. glomerdtum. | S. declinatum. 

Aste'lma eximium. 
A. stcehelma. A. variegatum. 

A. spirdle. A. canescens. 

A. speciosissimum. A. frdgram. 

These are low, spongy, white -leaved undershrubs, chiefly 
from the Cape, and valued for the durability of their flowers 
after being gathered. They grow in sandy peat, and are 
increased by cuttings generally in the same soil, or with an 
additional quantity of sand. 

Helichry^sum cnspum. 
H. arbdreum. 
H. congistum. 
H. pdtulum, 
H. discoldrum, 
H. cephaldtes. 

Z 2 



H. diosmifblium. 
H. ericoides. 
H. ignescens. 
H. crassifdlium. 



340 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



This is a handsome family of plants intermediate between 
shrubs and herbs. They have mostly white hairy or woolly 
leaves^ and their flowers are exceedingly brilliant, generally 
yellow and orange, and preserve their colours a long time 
in a dried state. They grow in sandy peat, the pots being 
well drained and not over large. Cuttings root in sand 
on heat, but uncovered, as the confinement of a bell is 
apt to damp off the leaves. They are almost all Cape 
plants, and flower at various periods, but chiefly from May 
to August. 

B accha' ris angustifolia, ivafolia and neriifolia, American 
and a Cape undershrub of similar habits to Helichrysum, 
and requiring similar treatment. They are of no beauty, 
and only curious on account of their white woolly leaves. 

Cony'za camphorata. 
C. Candida. C. rupestris. 

C. verbascifdlia. C. serlcea. 

C. hirsicta. C. inulotdes. 

C. Gouani. C. incha. 

Cfos'tida. C. virgdta. 

C. sordida. C. rugosa. 

C. saxatilis. 

Low spongy whitish shrubs from different parts of the 
South of Europe, Africa, and America, of no beauty. 
They grow in loam and peat, and young cuttings root in 
sand under a bell-glass. 

Eri^geron glaucum, B. R. 10, a low spongy shrub which 
flowers great part of the year, but has little else to recom- 
mend it. It grows freely in loam and peat, and cuttings 
root readily under a hand-glass. 

Tussila' GO /ra^raws, B. M. 1388, a frame perennial 
from Italy, valued for its fragrance. It grows in any soil, 
and increases itself like the common Tussilago. One plant 
will perfume a whole green-house. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 341 



Sene'cio reclindtus. 
S. purpureus. 
S. erubescens. 
S. divaricdtus. 
S. cinerdscens. 
S. hastdtus. 
S. veniistus, 
S. elegans. 

S. ^dre plenOj B. M. 

238. 



S. specidsus, B. R. 41. 

S. rosmarinifolius. 

S. dsper. 

S. rigescens. 

S. Idnceus. 

S. lonigifolius. 

S. halimifoUus. 

S. ilicifdlius . 

S. rigidus. 



These are low spongy shrubs, perennials or annuals, 
mostly from the Cape, and generally flowering late in the 
season. None of them deserve a place in the green -house, 
excepting S. purpureus j cinerdscens, elegans, and specidsus, 
which have brilliant-petalled red, blue or purple flowers, 
and S. elegans pleno Howers all the year. They grow in 
loam and peat, and cuttings root with the greatest ease in 
sandy soil uncovered. 

A^STER reflexus, B. M. 884. 
A. tomentdsus, A. R. 61. 
A. sericeus. 
A. Cymhaldri(B. 
A. lyrdtus, B. M. 1509. 
A. argophy'Uus, B. M. 1563. 
A. angustifdlius. 

These are plants with similar habits to Senecio ; few of 
them are of any beauty, and all of them are easily grown 
in loam and peat, and rooted in sandy soil uncovered. 
They are mostly from the Cape, and flower late in the 
season. 

Cinera'ria geifdlia. 



A. mlldsus. 

A. obtusdtus. 

A . fruticuldsus. 

A. filifolius. 

A. tenellus, B. M. 33. 



C. canescens. 

C. aurita, B. M. 1786. 

C. Idctea, 



C. cruenta, B. M. 406. 
C. hy^brida. 
C. populifblia. 



842 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Cinera'ria lobata. C. maritima. 

C. malvce folia, C. humifusa. 

C. petasltes, B. M. 1536. C. lanata, B. M. 53. 

These are spongy undershrubs and herbs nearly allied to 
As^ter in habit, and of the same culture and propagation. 
C. cruenfa has very dark purple leaves. C. aurita has pur- 
ple flowers ; and as plants of similar colours are generally 
scarce, they may be admitted : but few of the others deserve 
a place in a select green -house. 

Inu^la viscbsa, a perennial from the South of Europe, of 
no beauty, and of the easiest culture, 

Grinue^lia glutindsa, B. R. 187. 

G. inulozdes, B. M. 248. 

G. squarrosa, B. M. 1706. 

These a^re spongy shrubs, and the last a perennial, which 
grow in any light rich soil, and are increased by cuttings or 
seeds. 

PoDOLEPis rugafa and acuminata, B. M. 956. New 
Holland perennials of common culture. 

XiMENE^siA encelioldes, a Mexican biennial of common 
culture in light rich soil. 

Hele'nium quadridenfatum, a frame perennial from 
Louisiana, of no beauty, and of the easiest culture. 

Tage'tes lucida, B. M. 740, an American sweet- 
scented perennial, which flowers from July to November: 
it grows in sandy loam, and is increased as other peren- 
nials are. 

Leyse^ra gnaphalodes, and squarrosa. Cape under- 
shrubs, of no beauty and easy culture. 

Chrysa^nthemum pinnatlfidunif a Madeira shrub of the 
easiest culture. 

C. artemisicefolia, a Chinese perennial, of whose nume- 
rous and beautiful varieties, and culture in pots and the 
green -house, we have already treated in Part I. 



THE green-housp: catalogue. 343 



PyRE^THRUM foeniculaceunit B. M. 272. 
P. crithmifdlium. P. coronopifolium. 

P. anethifdlium. P. grandifldrum. 

P. frutescens. P. specidsum. 

Low, spongy, ugly shrubs from TenerifFe and the Canaries, 
of the easiest culture and propagation. 

Matrica^ria capensis, a Cape biennial of the iriost 
simple treatment and without beauty. 

LiDBE^CKiA pectindta, a Cape shrub, flowering in May 
and June, and valued for its silvery leaves. It is of the 
easiest culture in light rich soiL 

Co^TULA coronopifdlia, a Cape annual of the easiest 
culture. 

Anthe'mis glohdsa, a perennial from the South of 
Europe. 

AcHi^LLEA cegyptiaca, a Levant perennial of the easiest 
culture. 

Ame^llus Ly'chnitisy a hardy undershrub from the Cape, 
of no beauty, but easily cultivated and increased in sandy 
loam. 

Verbesi'na alata, B. M. 1716, and serrata, South Ame- 
rican perennials of no beauty, and the easiest culture. 

Zaluza'nia trildha, a frame perennial from Mexico, of 
the usual culture, 

BuPHTHA^LMUM seficeum, B. M. 1836, and maritimum, 
are spongy plants between shrubs and herbs, of little ele- 
gance and easily cultivated. 

DiOME^DiA arborescens and frutescens, of easy culture. 

Helia^nthus dentatus, a Mexican perennial, of no merit 
but facility of cultivation. 

RuDBK^CKiA IcBvigata, a frame perennial from Carolina, 
ugly, and of easy culture. 

Cosme'a lutea, B. M, 1689, and bipinnata, B. M. 1535, 
Mexican herbs of easy culture. 



344 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



CoREO^psis ferul(efdlia, B. M. 2059, a frame Mexican 
perennial of the easiest culture. 

Osmi'tes camphorma, a low^ spongy shrub from the Cape, 
which smells like camphor. It grows and increases as 
freely as any plants of this Order. 

Enci^lta halimifdlia, a Peruvian shrub of easy culture. 

Scleroca'rpus africdnus, an annual from Guinea, ugly, 
and easy of culture. 

CuLLu^MiA ciliaris, B. M. 2059, B. C. 302, setosa, and 
squarrosa, low Cape shrubs, spongy-wooded, like all the 
Composites, and of the easiest culture. 

Berckhe^ya cynarozdes, obovdta, incdna, cunedta, pal- 
mdta, grandifldra, B. M. 1844, unifldra and cernua, Cape 
shrubs of common culture in loam and peat. 

Dide'lta carndsum atid spindsum, Cape shrubs, spongy, 
and which may be treated like Berckheya 

GoRTE^RiA personata, a Cape annual of no beauty and 
easy culture. 

Gaza^nia rigens, B.M. 90, pavdnia, B.R. 35, and subu- 
lata, Cape perennials of common culture. 

Arctothe^ca repens, a Cape perennial of the easiest 
culture. 

Spheno^gyne crithmifolia, scariosa, ahrotani folia, den" 
tdta, and odordta. Cape shrubs, spongy, and easily cultivated 
and increased. 

Centaure^a hyssopifoUa, intyhacea, cinerdrid, ragusina, 
B. M. 494, argentea, sempervtrens, canariensis, ferox, and 
cBgypiiaca. 

Spongy shrubs and perennials, chiefly frame-plants, and 
all of easy culture in sandy loam, and increased by cuttings 
in the same soil uncovered. 

Khci i<i \ perfolidta, a Mexican annual of the easiest cul- 
ture in any rich light soil. 

Cale'ndula graminifdlia, B. R. 289. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 345 



Cale'ndula Tragus, B. M. 
408. 

C. fldccida, 



C. oppositifolia. 
C. fruticdsa. 

C. chrysanthemifdlia, B. R. 
40. 

C. arbor escens. 



B. R. 28. 

C. viscdsa, A. R. 412. 
C. dentafa, A. R. C. ic. 

These are very low, spongy, Cape shrubs, but of consi- 
derable beauty : they grow in loam and peat, mostly flower 
in May, and are increased by cuttings of ripened wood 
without being covered or placed on heat. 

Arcto'tis acdulis, B.R. 122. 



A. tricolor, B. R. 131. 

A. iindulata. 

A. grandijidra. 

A. glaucophy'lla. 

A. plantaginea. 

A. argentea. 

A. rosea. 

A. decumhens. 

A. angustifolia. 

A. Jldccida. 



A. decurrens. 

A. melanocicla. 

A. reptans. 

A. auriculdfa. 

A. fastudsa. 

A. spinidosa. 

A. maciddta, B. R. 130, 

A. dspera, B. R. 34. 

A, aureola, B. R. 32. 

A. hicolor. 



These are Cape perennials, and very low, spongy shrubs, 
some of them of considerable beauty. They are all treated 
as Calendula. 

Osteospe'rmum spindsum. 
O. spinescens. O. n'gidum, 

O. pisiferum, B. C. 470. O. cceruleum. 
O. moniliferum. O. polygalotdes. 

O. ilicifdlium. 

These are low, spongy shrubs, which grow well in any light 
rich soil, and cuttings root freely under a hand-glass. 
Otho'nna pmna^a, B M. 768. 



O. pedindta, B, M. 306. 
O. Athandsiw. 



O. abrotanifolia, B. R. 108. 
O. ret rof acta. 



846 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



O. hulhdsa. 

O. perfolidta, B. M. 1312. 
O. parvifldra. 
O. ericoides. 
O. ienuissima. 
O. arbor escens. 



Otho'nna coronopifolia. 
O. cheirifolia, B. R. 266. 
O. crassifdlia. 
O. denticulata. 
O. heterophy'lla, 
O. Lingua, 
O, filicaulis. 

Low, spongy Cape shrubs and perennials, which may be 
treated as Oateospermum, 

Rippixfrutescens, B. M. 1855, a low Cape shrub, which 
may be treated like Osteospermum. 

SoLi'vA anihemifolia, a South American annual which 
flowers from April to December : it grows in light rich soil, 
and seeds freely. 

Erioce'phalus ofricanus, B.M. 833, and racemdsus, low 
Cape shrubs, of the usual culture of the Composit<£, 

Elkpha'ntopus carolinianus and tomenfosus, American 
perennials of the easiest culture. 

CEde^ra proUfera, B. M. 1637, a low spongy shrub from 
the Cape, of the easiest culture. 

Stce^be (jethiopica and cinereciy spongy Cape shrubs of the 
usual culture. 

CAssrNA aureay a New Holland perennial of common 
culture. 

Franze^ria artemisioides and amhrosioides, Ioav spongy 
South American shrubs of easy culture. 

So'nchus fruticdsus, pinndtus, liBvigdtuSf lyratus, and 
radicatus, low, spongy shrubs from Madeira and the Cana- 
ries, of no beauty, and growing in any light soil, rather 
rich. 

Prena'nthes spindsa, a frame undershrub from Bar- 
bary, of no beauty, but of the easiest culture. 

Hiera'cium frutkosum, a Madeira undershrub of the 
easiest culture. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 347 



Cre'pis rigens and filifdrmis, a perennial and biennial 
from the Azores and Madeira, which grow in hght soil, and 
are readily increased. 

Andrya'la cheiranthifolia^ innnatijida, crithmifdlia, and 
ragusma, perennials and biennials from Madeira and the 
Archipelago, which grow in light loam, and cuttings root in 
the same soil under a hand-glass. 

Cicho'rium spinosum, a frame biennial from Candia, 
which grows in any light soil. 

CHLORA^NTHE^. 

Cloranthus inconspicua, a small evergreen shrub from 
China, with small green flowers. 

RUBIAXE^. 

Crvcixse' LLA pubescens and maritima^ the first a peren- 
nial from Candia, the other an undershrub of an herbaceous 
nature from the South of Europe : they grow in sandy loam, 
and are easily increased by cuttings of the roots or shoots. 

Ru'bia lucidu, fruticosa, and angustifblia, low shrubs of 
an herbaceous nature, which may be cultivated and increased 
like Crucianella. 

Bouva'rdia triphy'lla and versicolor^ B. R. 245, Ameri- 
can shrubs of easy culture. 

Muss^'nda pubescensy B. M. 2099, a shrub from China, 
of common culture. 

Pinckne'ya pw6ens, a frame shrub from Georgia, of easy 
culture. 

Garde' NiA rac?ica?is, B. R. 73. 



G. Thunbergia, B.M. 1024. 
G. Rothmdnnia. 



G. forida, B. R. 449, and 

varieties. 
G. spindsa. 

China and Cape shrubs, beautiful plants ; and G. rddi-^ 
cans and florida are very odoriferous and much in demand 



348 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



on that account. One plant of either will scent a whole 
room in the evening if ever so crowded. G. florida is pro- 
perly a stove plant, and indeed all the species require to be 
placed in the warmest part of the green-house ; but they 
flower best on a frame with a little moist heat. Cuttings 
root in sand under a glass in bottom heat. 

Seri'ssa foe'tida and flore pleno, B. M. 361, a Japan 
shrub which grows in loam and peat; and cuttings root 
readily in sand under a hand glass. 

Pjede^ria foe'tida, a China shrub which may be treated 
as Serissa. 

Pro'cama pendula, a shrub from the Canaries of easy 
culture. 

Phy'llis Nobla, a Canary shrub which may be treated 
like Sertssa. 

Anthospe^rmum cethidpicum, a Cape shrub of easy cul 
ture and propagation in loam and peat. 

Cni'cus Casaubdni, dfer, and diacanthus, ugly peren- 
nials from the South of Europe, of common culture. 

Cyna^ra horrida and glomerdta. Cape and Madeira 
artichokes, of common culture. 

Stoke^sia cyanea, a Carolina perennial, rather pretty, of 
common culture. 

Sto'b^a pinndta, B. M. 1788, a Cape spongy shrub 
which flowers all the year ; it grows in any rich light soil, 
and cuttings root freely under a hand-glass. 

St^heli^na arbor escens and ChanKBpense, shrubs from 
Candia of easy culture, and hardy. 

Ptero^nia camphordta, stri'da, flexicduHs, oppositi folia, 
and scariosa, Cape shrubs of little beauty, which grow freely 
in loam and peat, and cuttings root under a hand-glass. 

SpHiERA^NTHUs africanus, a Cape shrub of easy culture 
in any light rich soil. 

Centaure^a hyssopifoUa, spinosa^ ragusina, cineraria. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 349 



argent ea, semper vir ens, canariensis, ferox, and (rgyptiaca, 
perennials, chiefly frame plants, and some of them ap- 
proaching to undershrubs, of the easiest culture and pro- 
pagation. 

DIPSAXEiE. 

Mori'na p<?Vsica, a perennial, from Persia, of the usual 
culture. 

ScABio'sA rigida, attenuata, africana, cretica, and lyrata, 
sufFruticos'e plants and herbs, from the Cape and the South 
of Europe, of common culture in light rich soil. 

GENTIA^NE^. 

Exa'cum viscdsum, a biennial from the Canaries, of the 
easiest culture. 

Villa' RsiA lacundsa, sarmentbsa, B. M. 1328, parnassi- 
folia, B. M. 1029, and ovdta. Cape, New Holland, and 
North American aquatics, which require to be grown in 
water, the pots being placed only a few inches below the 
surface ; the soil used may be peat and loam, and the plants 
are increased by dividing at the root or by seeds. 

Loga'nia latifoUa and floribunda, A. R. 520, New Hol- 
land shrubs, which thrive in sandy loam and peat, and 
ripened cuttings root in sand under a hand-glass. 

Chiro^n lA jasminoides, B. R. 197, B. C. 27. 
C. lychnoides. C. angiisfifdlia, B. M. 818. 

C. linoides, B. M. 511. C frutescens, B. M. 37. 

C. hacclfera, B. M. 233. C. decussdta, B. M. 707. 

These are spongy-wooded, low Cape shrubs, pretty plants, 
with handsome flowers, but of short lives, and therefore re- 
quire to be frequently renewed by cuttings. They grow in 
peat, with a little loam, and cuttings in the same soil, under 
a bell-glass, root readily. 



350 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Erythr^'a marltima, a perennial from the South of 
Europe, of the usual culture in sandy loam. 

CAMPANULA^ CE^. 

Lightfoo'tia oxycoccotdes and subulata, a Cape shrub 
and perennial, which grow in light loam, and are increased 
by cuttings in the same soil under a hand-glass. 

Campa'nula gracilis, B.M. 691, peregrma, B. M. 1257, 
cernua, capensis, B. M. 782, mollis , B.M. 404, saxdtilis, 
laciniata, aurea, B. R. 57, B. R. 56, and shrubs^ perennials, 
and annuals of the easiest culture in any light rich soil. 

Prismatoca^rpus fruticosa, perfoliata, prismatocarpus, 
and pentagonia, all easy of culture in light soil. 

Roe^lla ciliata, B. M. 378, squarrdsa, decurrens, and 
muscdsaj a Gape shrub, annuals and a perennial of common 
culture. 

Phyteu^ma pinndta, a perennial from Candia, of com- 
mon culture in light soil. 

Canari^na campanula^ B. M. 444, B. C. 376, a peren- 
nial which grows in any light rich soil, and roots readily 
under a hand-glass. 

MicHAu'x[A campanidoldes, B. M. 219, a biennial of the 
easiest culture. 

TracheYtum diffiisum, a Cape undershrub, which may 
be treated as Phyteiima, 

LOBELIACE.E. 



Lobe'^lia simplex. 
L. linearis. 

L. pinifolia, A. R. 240. 
L. unidentata, B. M. 1484. 
L. salicifolia, B. M. 1325. 
L. bellidifdlia. 



L. triquetra. 
L. secunda, 
L. aldta. 

L. fulgens, A. R. 659, B. R. 
165. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 351 



LoBE^LTA splendens, B.R. 
60. 

L. cardinalis, B. M. 320. 
L. dehilis. 

L. gracilis, B.M. 741. 
L. miniita. 

L. Ermus, B. M. 901. 
L. erinoides. 



L. bzcolor, B.M. 514. 
L. lutea, B. M. 1319. 
L. variifolia, B. M. 1692. 
L. hirsiita. 

L. cor onopif alia, B.M. 644. 
L. ilicifdlia, B. M. 1896. 
L. crenata. 

L. Speculum, B. M. 1499. 



L. pubescens. 

These are chiefly Cape and American perennials, some of 
them with very showy flowers : they grow in light rich soil, 
and cuttings root with ease, covered by a hand-glass. The 
culture of the three frame species, L. fulgens, splendens, 
and cardindlis, is the same as that of the Georgina. 

Cy'phia volubilis and bulbdsa. Cape perennials, which 
grow in loam and peat, and are increased by cuttings under 
a hand-glass. 



STYLrDEiE. 



Styli^dium graminifdlium, B. R. 90, B. C. 385, /m^?'- 
cdsum, B. C. 171, and scdndens, New Holland perennials, 
and a shrub which grows in sandy loam and leaf-mould, 
and are increased by cuttings divided at the roots, or by 
seeds. 



ERrCEiE. 



AzA^LEA mdica, B.M. 1480, B.C. 275, an Indian shrub 
of great beauty and fragrance, which grows in sandy turfy 
peat well drained, and requires a warm part of the green- 
house. 



352 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Ka'lmia hirsuta, B. M. 138, a frame-shrub from North 
America, which grows in peat soil, and is best increased by 
layers. 

Rhodode^ndron dauricum, B. M. 636, B. R. 194, B. C. 
605, andR. ChamcBcistus, B. M. 488, frame-shrubs from Si- 
beria, which may be treated hke Kahnia. 

Beja^ria racemosa, a handsome shrub from Florida, 
which grows in peat soil, and is increased by cuttings in 
sand under a bell on heat, or better by layers. 

Bl^'ria ericoides, articulata, purpurea, muscosa, and 
ciliarisy heath-like Cape shrubs, which may be treated like 
Erica. 

Cyri'lla caroliniana, a Carolina shrub, which may be 
treated like Erica. 

Vacci'nium meridionale, myrtifolium nltidum, B. R. 480, 
71. decumhens, B.M. 1550^ an^ my r smites, low evergreen 
creeping American shrubs, which grow in peat soil, and are 
increased by cuttings of the tender tops, or by layers. 

Andro^meda japdnica, a Japan shrub, which may be 
treated like Vaccinium. 

Enkia^nthus quinquefldra, B. M. 1649, a China shrub 
of the culture of Erica. 

Arbu^tus canariensisy B. M. 1577, and phillyre<pfdUa, 
shrubs from Canary and Peru, which grow in peat soil, and 
are best increased by layers. 

Cle^thra arhdrea, B.M. 1057, and a. minor, low trees 
from Madeira, to be treated as Arbutus. 

HuDso^NiA ericoides, a frame-shrub from America, which 
may be treated like Erica. 

Empe'trum album, a Portugal heath-like shrub, to be 
treated as Erica. 

The Eri'ca family are almost as numerous as the Ge- 
raniacccB, and like them they admit of interminable increase 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 353 



and variety, by the production of seed-bearing mules. It is 
supposed by several of the best-informed botanists, that 
many of what we call species have been so originated by 
nature in the heathery surfaces of the Cape ; and it is cer- 
tain that a number have been so produced in the green- 
houses about London. From these, as given in the Cata- 
logues of Lee, Andrews, Cormack, Page, Donn, Sweet, 
and others, we might have greatly increased our list ; but 
we prefer a selection, and have rejected some names be- 
cause the plants no longer exist ; others, because we consi- 
der them as only varieties ; and some, as not to be pur- 
chased at the public nurseries. 

Eri'ca 

Sebdna, A. H. vol. L B. C. 
23. 



furfurosa, A. H. vol. I. 

monadelpha, B. M. 1370. 

foUiculdris, A. H. vol. 1. 

Bdnksii, lb. vol. 1. 

leucanthera. 

socci flora, lb. vol. 1. 

Petiveridna. 

Plukenetiana, lb. vol. 1. 

'penicillifldra. 

penicilldta, lb. vol. 2, 

melastdma, lb. vol. 1. B. C. 

333. 
melanthera. 
Jieocuosa, A. H. vol. 1. 
imbricdta, lb. vol. 2. 
villosa, lb. vol. 3. 
velleri/ldra, lb. vol. 1. 
tiarcejldray lb. vol. 3. 
vdgans. 



Eri'ca 

/3 alba, 
spumosa, B. C. 566. 
sexfdria. 
Brunoldes. 

umbelldta, A. H. vol. 2. 
latifolia, lb. vol. 2. 
nudiflora. 
cdrnea, B. M. IL 
mediterranean lb. 471. 
muUi/ldra, A. H. vol. 2. 
gelida, lb. vol. 2. B. C. 699. 
discolor y lb. vol. 1. 
coccinea, lb. vol. 2. 
grandi^dra, B. M. 189. B. C. 
498. 

cruenta, A. H. vol. 1. 
verticilldta, lb. vol. 1. B. C. 
145. 

ignescens, lb. vol. 2. 
cylindrical lb. C. ic. 
curvifldra, lb. vol. 1. 

2 A 



354 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Eri'ca 

conspicua, lb. vol 2. 
splendens. 

Ewerdna, lb. vol. 2. 
speciosa, lb. vol. 2. B. C. 
575. 

mammosa, A. H. vol. 1. B.C. 
125. 

densifolia. 

clavcBfldra, A. H. vol. 2. 
Patersoni, lb. vol. 1. 
fascicularis^ lb. vol. 1. 

corifolia. 

glaiica, B. M. 580. 
trijldra, 

versicolor, A. H. vol. 1. B. C. 
208. 

fldmmeay A. H. vol. 2. 
procera. 

squamosa, A. H. vol. 3. 
lachnecBjidra, lb. vol. 3. 
cerintholdes, B.M. 220. 
costdta, A. H. vol. 1 . 
Aitoniana, B. M. 429. B. C. 
144. 

Lawsoni, B. M. 1720. B. C. 
488. 

Niveniy A. H. vol. 2. 
tuhifldra, lb. vol. 1. 
simplicijidra. 
spuria, lb. vol. 1. 
Idxa, lb. vol. 3. 
tenuifldra, lb. vol. 3. 
Jistulcefldra, lb. vol. 3. 



EnrcA 

e%a7i5, B. M. 966.B.C. 185. 

pyrolcejldra. 

Hyacinthoides, A. H. vol. 3. 
aristata, A. H, vol. 3. B. C. 

73. B. M. 1249. 
tricolor, A. H. vol. 3. 
— aristdta minor, A. H. 
andromedmfLora, B. C. 521. 

B. M. 1250. 
ovdta, A. H. vol. 2. 
acuminata, lb. vol. 3. 
lucida, lb. vol. 2. 

a aZ6«, A. H. vol. 1. B. C. 
243. 

/3 incarndta, lb. vol. 2. 
7 purpurea, lb. vol. 1. 

B. C. 217. 
a rc^sea, A. H. vol. 2. 
e fulgida, lb. vol. 2. 
^ cocclnea, lb. vol. 1. B. C. 

55. 

7] lutea, lb. vol. 1. 
pellucida, lb. vol. 3. B.C. 
276. 

serratifolia, lb. vol. 1. 
Sparrmdnni, lb. vol. 3. 
Archeridna, lb. vol. 2. 
Hibbertidna, lb. vol. 3. B.M. 

1758. 
Massoni, B. M. 356. 
radidta, A. H. vol. 1. 
rosea, lb. vol. 2. 
princeps, lb. vol. 2. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 355 



EarcA 
tetragdna, lb. vol. 3. 
hldnda, lb. vol . 3. 
transparens, B. C. 177. 
Linn<Eana^ A. H. vol. 2. 

B. C. 102. 
longlfolia, B.M. 706. 
coccineay A. H. vol. 1. 
exsurgensy lb. vol. 1. 
prce'gnans, lb. C. ic. 
jasminifldra, lb. vol. 1. 
ferruginea^ lb. vol. 3. 
ventricosa, B.M. 350. B. C. 

431. 

ampuUdcea, B. M. 303. B.C. 

508. 
glanduldsa. 

erubescensy A. H. vol. 3. 
eldta, _lh. vol. 2. 
purpurea, lb. vol. 2. B. C. 

703. 
aurea, \h» vol. 2, 

Monsdni(B, B. M. 1915. 
Halicdcaba, A. H. vol. 2. 
lanuginosa, lb. vol. 3. 
retdrta, B. M. 362. 
infidta. 

Leedna, A.FI. vol. 1. B. C. 
298. 

viridis, lb. vol. 2. B. C. 233. 
comosa. 
a rubra. 

drdens, B. R. 115, B.C. 47. 
nitida. 



ERfCA 

glohdsa, A. H. vol. 3. 
Tetralix. 

filamentdsa, B. R. 6. B. C. 
395. 

margaritacea, A. H. vol. 1. 
empetrifolia, B. M. 447. 
later dlis, A. H. vol. 1. 
canescens, lb. vol. 2. 
eriocephala, 

odorata, A. H. vol. 3. B. M. 

1399. B. C. 633. 
Thunbergih B. M. 1214. B. C. 

277. 
exlgua. 
parvifldra. 
florida, B. C. 234. 
nigrita^ A. H. vol. 1. B. C. 

34. 

bdccans, B. M. 358. 
oppositifdlia. 
petioldta, lb. vol. 1. 
laxifdlia, lb. vol. 1. 
pcbtens, lb. vol. 3. 
canaliculdtay lb. vol. 3. 
fidva, lb. vol. 2. B. M.1815. 
Blandfordiana, lb. vol. 3. 

B.M. 1793. B. C. 115. 
cinerea. 

/8 alba, 
strictay A. H. vol. 2. 
decora, lb. vol. 3. 
horizontalis, lb. vol. 2. 
physddes, B. M. 443. B. C 

223. 

2 A 2 



356 THE GREENrHOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Erpca 

obliqua, A. H. vol. 1. 

pilulifera, 

catervcefolia. 

pyramiddlis, B. M. 366. 

B. C. 319. 
propendens, A, H. vol. 2. 

B. C. 63. B. M. 2140. 

tardifldra. 

Solandri, A. H. vol. 2. 
empetroides, lb. vol. 2. 
acuta, lb. vol. 2. 
Bergidna, lb. vol. 2. 
barbdta, lb. vol. 2. 
Muscdri, lb. vol. 1. 
Passerina. 

daphncBflora, B. C. .543. 

dlhens, B. M. 440. B. C. 95. 

cilidris, B. M. 484. 

lutea, A.H. vol. 1. B. C. 64. 

glutindsa. 

urceoldris. 

Jlexicaulis, A. H. vol. 2. 
fastigidta, lb. vol. 1. B. C. 

207. B. M. 2084. 
cuhica, lb. vol. 1. 
echiifldra, lb. vol. 3. B. C. 

364. 

viscdria, B. C. 726. 
formdsa. 
a alba, 
rubra, 
hirtijldra, B. M. 481. 
hispidula. 
malleoldris. 
cor data, A. H. vol, 3. 



ERrcA 

primuloides, B. M. 1548. 

B. C. 715. 
depressa, A. H. vol. 2. 
amtrdlis, lb. vol. 3. 
palustris, lb. vol. 2. B. C. 4. 
pulchella, B. C. 307. 
cernua. 
pendula. 

Lambertidna, A. H. vol. 2. 

rubens, B. C. 557. 

scariosa, B. C. 477. . 

bracteoldris. 

incarndta, A. H. C. ic. 

gnaphalbdes. 

lanceoldta. 

Broadleydna, lb. C. ic. 
calyculdta. 

emargindta, lb. C. ic. 
Jimbridta, lb. C. ic. 
cephaldtes. 

Cdfra, lb. C. ic. B. C. 196. 
SavUii, lb. C, ic. B. C. 96. 

axilldris. 

pectinifdlia. 

incurva, A. H. C. ic. 

pdllens, lb. C. ic. 

humifusa. 

vesiculdris. 

carduifdlia. 

auriculdris. 

tomentdsa. 

helian them ifd lia, 

glomifldra. 

tuberculdris. 

lavandulcefdlia. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 357 



EarcA 
corydMis. 
azaleeefolia. 
vernicifldra. 
lyrigera. 
sdlax. 

cumulifldra. 

genistcefolia. 

periploccefolia. 

bicolor. 

thymifdlia^ A. H. vol. 2. 

retroflexa. 

planifdlia. 

marifdlia^ A. H. vol. 1. 

phylicoldes. 

scopdria. 

campanuldta, B. C. 184. 
conferta, A. H. vol. 2. 
racemdsa. 

tenella, A. H. vol. 2. 
viridipurpurea. 
regerminans, 
imhecilla. 

gracilis, L. T. 
gracilis, B. C. 244. 
amce'na. 

ramentacea, A. H. vol. 1. 
B. C. 446. 

strigdsa. 

racemifera, A. H. vol. 3. 
persoluta, B. M. 342. 
paniculata. 
arhdrea. 

/3 styldsa. 
puVescens, B. M. 480. B. C. 

167. 



EarcA 

absintholdes. 
setdcea, A. H. vol. 1. 
frdgrans, lb. vol. 2. B. M. 

2181. B. C. 288. 
hyssopifdlia. 
pulvinifdrmis. 
brachidlis. 
festa. 
parilis. 
horhonicefldra. 
fdllaoc. 
notceflora. 
doliifdrmis. 
sceptrifdrmis. 

Swainsonidna, A. H. C. ic. 
Sainsburydna, lb. C. ic. 
moschdta, lb. C. ic. B. C. 
614. 

magnificaj lb. C. ic. 
Shannoni, lb. C. ic. B. C. 
168. 

rugosa, lb. C. ic. 

densa, lb. C. ic. 

hispida^ A. H. C. ic. 

siccifolia. 

oocycoccifolia. 

cinerdscens. 

coarctdta. 

fugax. 

divaricdta. 

squarrdsa. 

tragulifera. 

pavettcpjldra. 

pusilla. 

intervalldris. 



35B THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE, 



Erpca EarcA 

pnbigera. 

curvirdstris. 

turbinifldra. 

emhothriifolia. 

cdpax. 

lasclva. 

diotcBflora. 

holoserlcea. 

brevifolia. 

chlamydifldra. 

velitdris. 

cyrillafidra. 
fdhrilis. 

selaginifolia. 
filifdrmis. 

The culture and management of this genus has been 
already given at length. 

PENCEA^CEA. 

Pence A. mucronata. 
P. squamosa. 

Beautiful Cape shrubs^ of easy culture by cuttings. 



siagndlis. 

succifldra. 

palliifldra. 

nutans. 

panndsa. 

cuspidtgera. 

modesta. 

tegulcefolia. 

diosmcBfolia. 

stylo sa. 

tiirgida. 

vestiflua. 

squamceflora. 

cce'sia. 



EPACRrDE^. 

Anderso^nia sprengelioldes, B. M. 1645^ B. C. 263, a 
New Holland shrub which grows in sandy loam and leaf- 
mould, and must be sparingly watered : young cuttings, 
treated like those of Erzca, root freely. 

Epa^cris purpurdscens, B. M. 844, B. C. 237. 

E. pulchella, B. M. 1170, B. C. 194. 

E. grandiflbra, B. M. 982, B. C. 21. 

E. ohtusifolia, B. C. 292, and exserla. 

Australasian shrubs of considerable beauty, and valuable 
as flowering early in spring: they grow in rough, turfy. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 359 



sandy peat soil, the pots frequently shifted, as the mass of 
roots round the insides of the pots is apt to be destroyed 
during the hot sunshine of summer. Young cuttings grow 
in sand under bell-glasses, and succeed best when put in in 
autumn or very early in spring. 

MoNOTO^CA elh'ptica and lineata, New Holland shrubs, 
which grow in sandy loam and peat well drained, and are 
increased by young cuttings in sand under a bell-glass. 

Leucopo^gon lanceolhtus, A. R. 287, ericozdes, amplexi- 
caulis and juniperhms, B. C. 447, shrubs from New South 
Wales, which may be treated like Monotdca. 

Stenanthe^ra pinifolia, B. R. 218, B. C. 228, a beau- 
tiful plant, which may be treated like Epacris. 

AsTROLo^MA humifusum, B. M. 1439, a low bushy New 
Holland shrub, with scarlet flowers which come out from 
May to October : it grows in sandy loam and peat, and 
young cuttings root in sand under a bell. 

Styphe^lia longifolia, B. R. 24. 

S. viridifldra, A. R. 312. 

S. trifldra,' B. M. 1297. 

S. tuhifldra. 

Beautiful New Holland shrubs, which flower from April 
to June, and may be treated as Astroldma. 

MYRSI'NE^. 

Ardi'sia excelsa and crendta, a Madeira tree and shrub, 
which grow in loamy soil, and are increased by half-ripened 
cuttings in sand under a hand-glass. 

MYRsfNE africcina, retusa, B.C. 409, samara, and me- 
landphelos, Cape shrubs which grow in loam and peat, and 
cuttings root under cover in sand. 



360 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



SAPO^TE.^;. 

SiDERO^XYLON merme, a Cape shrub which may be 
treated Hke Ardtsia. 

Sersali'sia. serlcea, a New Holland shrub of the same 
nature as Siderdxylon. 

EBEN.VCEiE. 

RoYE^NA lucida. R. hirsuta. 

villosa. angustifdlia. 
pdllens. ambigua. 
glabra. polydndra. 
pubescens, B. R. 500. 
Cape shrubs of some beauty of foliage, which grow in 
loam and peat ; and ripened cuttings root in sand under a 
hand-glass. 

DiosPY^RUs Kdki, a Japan shrub or low tree, which 
grows in light rich loam, and is increased by grafting on 
any of the hardy species, or by ripened cuttings in sand. 

OLEFNEiE. 

LiGu^sTRUM lucidum, the Wax-tree, a Chinese shrub 
which grows in sandy loam, and is readily increased by 
cuttings. 

O^LEA europea, and several varieties. 



O. capensis, B. R. 613. 
O. unduldta. 
O. verrucosa. 



O. americdna. 
O. excels a. 

O.frdgrans, B. M. 1552. 



Evergreen shrubs with small white flowers, which grow 
in sandy loam, and increase freely by cuttings in the same 
soil. 

NoteltE^a longifolia and ligustrina, New Holland shrubs, 
which grow in loam and peat, and are increased by cuttings 
in sand under a bell-glass. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 361 



JASMFNEiE. 

jASMrNUM grdcile, A. R. 127^ B. R. 606. 
J. glaucum. J. revolidum, B. R, 178, 

J. azoricum, B. R. 89. B. M. 1731. 

J. odoratlssimum, B. M. 285. J. grandifldrum, B. R. 91. 

Oriental shrubs, climbers with fragant flowers, whose 
culture has been already noticed (Part I.) 

VERBENA^CE^. 

Stachyta'rpheta oTuhica, a biennial from Panama^ of 
easy culture in any light rich soil. 

Callica^rpa americdna, an American shrub, which grows 
in loam and peat, and ripened cuttings root under a hand- 
glass. 

Sela^go corymhosa^ canescens, diffusa, ovata, B. M. 
186, polygaloides, spuria^ fasciciddta, B. R. 184, and lu- 
cida, Cape shrubs, which grow in loam and peat, and cut- 
tings root in the same soil under a glass. 

Hebenstre^itia dentdta, B. M. 483, integrifolia, A. R. 
252, cilidta, spicdta, crinoides, and cordata, are Cape 
shrubs, an annual and perennial of easy culture in loam 
and peat, and young cuttings root in sandy loam under a 
hand-glass. 

Clerode^ndrum trichotomum and tomentdsum, B. M. 
1518, shrubs from Japan and New South Wales, which 
grow in loam and peat, and young cuttings root in sandy 
loam, under a hand-glass, on heat. 

Vi'tex A' gnus-cdstuSf a frame -shrub from Sicily, and 
inchay B. M. 364, a Chinese shrub, both of which grow in 
light loamy soil, and cuttings root in sand under a glass. 

Spielma^nnia africdnai B. R. 1899, a Cape shrub, flower- 
ing from February to November, of no great beauty, but 



362 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



which grows in any light rich soil, and is increased by cut- 
tings in the same soil, covered with a hand-glass. 

Zapa'nia nodifldra, an American shrub, of the same 
culture as Spielmannia. 

Aloy'sia citrioddra, B. M. 367, a lemon-scented deci- 
duous shrub, very hardy, and which may be increased by 
cuttings either of the young or old wood. 

Verbe^na AuhUtia, B. M. 308, B. R. 294, an Ameri- 
can biennial of the easiest culture. 

ASCLEPIA'DE^. 

Periplo^ca IcBvigdta, a shrub from the Canaries, of the 
easiest culture in any light soil. 

Secamo^ne cBgyptidca, a shrub from Egypt, which grows 
in any light soil, and increased by cuttings in the same soil. 

MicROLO^MA sagittatum, a Cape shrub, which grows in 
peat and loam, and cuttings root in sand under a bell-glass. 

Cyna^nchum obtusifdlium and pilosum, B. R. Ill, Cape 
shrubs, handsome climbers, of the culture of Microldma. 

Xysmalo^bium unduldtum, a Cape shrub, which may be 
treated like Microldma. 

GoMPHOCA^RPUs arborescens, crispus, and fruticdsus, 
B.M. 1628, Cape shrubs, to be treated as Microldma. 

AscL^^piAs parvi/ldra and linaria, perennials from North 
America of the easiest culture. 

Marsde^nia suavedlens, B. R. 489, a shrub from New 
South Wales, of the easiest culture in loam and peat. 

APOCY'NE^. 

Ardui^nia bispinosa, B.C. 387, a neat little Cape shrub, 
which grows well in loam and peat, and cuttings root in 
sand under a bell-glass. 

Ne^rium Oleander and odorum, B. R. 74, with their va- 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 363 



rieties, handsome-flowering shrubs, the culture of which 
has been already given. 

Echi'tes difformisj a Carolina shrub of easy culture. 

COBiEA^CEA. 

Co^BiEA scdndens, B. M. 851, a Mexican climber of rapid 
growth and great show, of easy culture in any light rich 
soil. It is best increased by seeds. 

BIGNONIA'CE.^. 

BiGNo^NiA grandifldra, B. M. 1938, B. R. 418, australis, 
B. M. 865, and ccBndea, climbing shrubs, which grow in 
any light rich soil, and increase readily by cuttings. 

Pe^nstemon campanulata, B. M. 1878, a frame-shrub 
from Mexico, of the easiest culture. 

Marty^nia proboscidea, B. M. 1056, and longifldra, an 
American and Cape annual of the usual culture. 

POLEMONIACEiE. 

Ipomo'psis elegans, a biennial from Carolina of the usual 
culture. 

CONVOLVULA^CEiE. 
Convo'lvulus pannifdlius, B. R. 222. 



C. canadensis, B. M. 1228. 



C. saxatilis. 



C. Cnedrum, B. M. 459. 
C. linearis, B. M. 289. 
C.floridus, 

C. cdndicans, B. M. 1603. 



C. farindsus. 

C. suffruticdsus, B. R. 133. 
C. Hermdnnice. 
C. erubescens, B. M. 1067. 
C. hryonicefdlius^ B.M. 943. 

These are showy climbers from all parts of the worlds 
which grow in loam and peat, and young cuttings root 
readily in sand under a bell-glass. 



364 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Ipom^'a dissecfa, mutdbilis, B. R. 39, Jaldpa^ B. M. 
1572, B. R. 342, and pendida, A. R. 613, B. R. 632, 
twiners which may be treated Hke Convolvulus, 

Re'tzia spicdta, a Cape shrub of the same culture as the 
two last genera. 

Fa^lkia repens, A. R. 257, a Cape perennial of the 
easiest culture. 

Dicho'ndra repens, a perennial from New South Wales, 
of common culture. 

Cuscu'ta chinensis, a Chinese annual, a parasite which 
may be sown in peat-soil at the root of any other plant, 
and it will grow up and root into its branches, after which 
the root in the soil will die away. 

BORAGrNEJE. 

Heliotro'pium peruvidnum, B.M. 141, and corymhb- 
sum, B. M. 1609, Peruvian shrubs, whose culture has been 
already given in Part I. 

Lithospe'rmum disfichuniy a Cuba perennial of the 
easiest culture. 

Anchusa capensis, A. R. 336, a Cape biennial of the 
usual culture. 

Cynoglo^ssum pwtum, B. M. 2134, and lanatum, her- 
baceous plants of the easiest culture. 

Ono'sma orientdlis, a Levant perennial of common cul- 
ture. 

TouRNEFO^RTiA Messevschmidia, a Canary shrub of the 
usual culture in light loamy soil. 

E'cHiuM fruticdsunif B. R. 36. 
E. grandifldrum, B. R. 124. E. gldbrum. 
E. ferocissimum, A.R. 39. E. fastudsum, 
E. argenteum, A. R. 154. E. nervosum, 
E. l(Evigaium. E. spicdtum. 

Cape shrubs, spongy-wooded, and of little beauty of 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 365 



foliage, but with showy blue and red flowers. They grow 
in light loam, and increase "easily by cuttings, and some- 
times ripe seeds are produced. 

SOLA^NE^. 

Verba'scum hcemorrhoiddle, phlomoldes, and pinnatifi- 
diim, herbaceous plants, which grow in light soil, and are 
best increased by seeds. 

Hyoscy^amus Senecidnis, aureus, B. M. 87, and cana- 
riensis, B. R. 180, spongy shrubs and a perennial of com- 
mon culture. 

NicoTiA^NA fruticosa, plumhoginifdlia, and undulata^ 
B. M. 673, shrubs and herbs easily grown in light soil^ and 
best increased by seeds, which they produce in abundance. 

Atro^pa frutescens, a shrub from Spain of common 
culture. 

Physa^lis sommfera, aristata, flexudsa, and peruviana, 
B. M. 1068, shrubs and herbs which grow in light rich soil, 
and are increased by seeds or cuttings under a hand-glass. 
The berry of P. peruviana is edible and agreeable. 

SoLA^NUM Pseudo- Capsicum, crassifdlium, lacinicitum, 
B. M. 349, B. C. 717, rddicans, honariense, suffruticdsum, 
Melongena, Campechiense, Carolinense, sodomeum^ margi- 
natum, tomentdsum, Bahamense, gigdnteum, Milleri, and 
cordifdlium, shrubs and herbs of no beauty, and of easy 
culture in rich light soil, and increased by seeds or cuttings. 

Ca'psicum sinense, a Cape undershrub, which may be 
treated like Soldnum. 

Ce'strum Pdrqui, B. M. 1770, and venendtum, shrubs 
which grow in loam and peat, and cuttings root in sand 
under a hand glass. 



366 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Ly^cium rigidum, horridum, and boerhaavefolium, ugly 
shrubs from the Cape, with foetid smells, which may be 
treated like C^strum. 

Ce'lsia Ardurus, B. M. 1962, cretica, B. M. 964, and 
lanceolata, frame biennials from the South of Europe, of 
easy culture in light rich soil, and increased by cuttings or 
seeds. They are showy plants, and flower from June to 
October, or later. 

Anthoce^rcis littorea, B. R. 212, a curious but elegant 
little plant, which grows in loam and peat, and roots in sand 
under a bell. 

Co'don Royena. 

SCROPHULARrNEiE. 

Calceola^ria pinndta, B. M. 41, and Father gilli, B. M. 
348, an annual and perennial, showy, and of easy culture 
in any light soil. They seed freely. 

BuDDLE^A salmfolia and saltgna, Cape shrubs of easy 
culture in light rich soil, and increased by layers or cut- 
tings. 

Browa^llia demissa, B. M. 1136, and eldta, B. M. 34, 
American annuals of the easiest culture. 

Ma^zus rugdms, a frame-annual from China of the 
usual culture. 

Capra^ria lanceolata and undulata, B. M. 1556, Cape 
shrubs which grow in loam and peat, and cuttings root 
freely in sand under a glass. 

Tee^dia lucida, B. R. 210, and pubescens, B, R. 214, 
Cape biennials of the easiest culture. 

Halle'ria lucida, B. M. 1744, a Cape shrub, which 
may be treated like Capraria. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 367 



Mi'mulus glutindsus, B. M. 354, a shrub from California, 
of the easiest culture on any light rich soil, and which 
flowers all the year. 

M. lutem, a frame perennial of the usual culture. 

DiGiTA^LTS canariensis, B. R. 48, and Sceptrum, showy 
undershrubs from the Canaries and Madeira, of easy culture 
in sandy soil. 

ScROPHULA^RiA glabvdta, friitescens, arguta, sambuci- 
fdliay and mellifera, herbaceous plants of common culture. 

Maura^ndia semperfldrens, B. M. 460, and antirrhini- 
fdlia, B. M. 1643, climbing shrubs from Mexico of com- 
mon culture. The first species is a very ornamental climber, 
and does not exceed due bounds in the green-house. 

Neme^sia chamcedrifdlia, foe' tens, and bicdrnis, Cape 
herbaceous plants of the usual culture. 

Anttrrhi'num Asarina, B. M. 902, and mdlle, frame- 
plants of easy culture in light rich soil. 

Lina'ria triornithophora, B. M. 525, bipartlta, tri'stis, 
B. M. 74, reticulata, alpma, B. M. 207, villdsa, and ori- 
ganifdlia. Frame herbaceous plants, which grow in loam 
and peat, and are increased by dividing at the root, or by 
cuttings. 

Pedicula^ris euphrasioides and other species are pro- 
perly alpine plants, though protected during winter by a 
frame. 

Manule^a foe'tida, A. R. 80, villdsa, Cheirdnthusj and 
argentea, are annuals and a biennial of the usual culture. 

M. pedunculdta, A. R. 84, viscdsa, B. M. 217, rubra, 
and tomentosa, B. M. 322, are Cape shrubs of easy culture 
in any light soil. 

Eri^nus alpinus, B. M. 310, hispdnicus, and fragrans, 
frame perennials, and a shrub of the same culture as 
Manalea, 



368 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



M. 



BisA^^iDRA prosfrdta, a perennial, a trailer, of the usual 
culture in light rich soil. 

LABIA^TE^. 

Rosmarinus chilensis, a low evergreen shrub from Chili, 
which grows in sandy soil, and is readily increased by 
cuttings. 

Sa'lvia dentata. 
S. angustifolia. 
S. serotina. 
S. syriaca. 
S. scdbra. 
S. runcindta. 
S. rugdsa. 
S. nubia. 
S. mexicdna. 
S. cce'sia. 
S. reptans. 
S. formdsa. 
S, coccinea. \ 

Low shrubs, some of which are of considerable beauty : 
the best have been selected and their culture given before 
in Part I. 

CoLLiNso^NiA scabriuscula, a perennial from Florida, of 
common culture in peat soil. 

Teu'crium nissolianum, trtfidum, fruticans, latifdlium, 
B.M. 245, Mdrum, regium, asidticum, abutiloides, betdni- 
cum, B. M. 1114, massilense, heterophy'llum, fldvum, mon- 
tdnum, aureum, Polium, flavescens, gnaphalddes, capita- 
turn, pumilumf and subspindsum. Frame and green -house 
low evergreens of little beauty, but of easy culture, and 
very hardy. T. Mdrum is greedily devoured by cats, when 
they can come at it. 



S. amarissima. 

S. abyss inica, 

S. canariensis. 

S. aurita. 

S. africana. 

S. aurea, B. M. 182. 

S. colordta. 

S. chamcBdrioides, B. 

808, B. C. 576. 
S. paniculata. 
S. odordta. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



369 



Westri^ NGiA.rosmarinifdrmis, A. R. 214, and Dampieri, 
New Holland shrubs which grow in sandy loam and peat, 
and cuttings root under a bell-glass in sand. 

Sature'ja juUdna, Thy'mbra, and grcs'ca, frame peren- 
nials and low shrubs, of easy culture in loam and peat. 

Thy'mbra spicata, and verticillata, shrubs from the South 
of Europe, of the easiest culture. 

Lavandu^la Sioe'chaSf viridis, dentata, B. M. 401, pin- 
nata, B. M. 400, multifida, and abrotanoides, evergreen 
shrubs which grow in any light rich soil, and are readily 
increased by cuttings in the same soil, or by seeds 

Sideri'tis canariensis, cdndicans, syridca, incdna, and 
cristata, low spongy shrubs, which may be treated as La- 
vandula. 

Bystropo'gon, plumdsum, origanifdlium, canariense, and 
pimctudtum, low shrubs from the Canaries, which grow and 
are increased in sandy peat and loam. 

Me'ntha capensis, a perennial of the easiest culture. 

Hy'ptis radidta and persica, a perennial and shrub of 
easy culture in sandy peat and loam, and increased by cut- 
tings in the same soil. 

Sta'chys cocclnea, B. M. 666, spindsa, <j£thidj)ica, and 
rugosa, shrubs and herbs of the easiest culture. 

Marru^bium africdnum, Pseudo-Dictamnus, and acetabu- 
Idsum, frame and green-house perennials of the easiest 
culture. 

Phlo'mis Lychnites, B. M. 999, a curious plant which 
grows in loam, sand, and peat, and is reared by cuttings on 
a little heat. 

Leono'tis Leonurus, B. M. 478, and L. Leondtis, Cape 
shrubs of easy culture. 

Ori'ganum Dictdmnus^ B. M. 298, cegyptidcum, siphy- 
leum, Tournefdrlu, A. R. 537, smyrncehum, Majordna, 

2 B 



370 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



sahifolium, majoranozdes, low spongy frame shrubs, which 
may be treated Uke Salvia or Hy'ptis. 

Thy'mus mastichmus, cephaldtus, mllosus, Trag origanum, 
and filifdrmis, frame and green-house shrubs, which grow 
in any light soil (the poorer the more odiferous the plants), 
and are increased by cuttings in the same soil. 

AcY^NOS alpinos, B. M. 2153, a frame biennial, which 
may be treated like Thy'mus. 

Calami' NTHA caroUnidna, B. M. 997, cr&tica, and fruti- 
cdsa, low shrubs of the culture of Thy'mus. 

Dracoce'phalum canariense, a well known odoriferous 
plant, grown in any light soil, and increased by cuttings or 
seeds. 

O'cYMUM grandifloTum, a low shrub of the easiest culture. 

Plecra'nthus fruticdsus, parmjidrus, and punctdfus, 
low shrubs or ligneous herbs, which may be treated like 
Thy'mus. 

Prosta'nthera lasidnthos, B. R. 143, a beautiful New 
Holland plant of the usual culture, and propagation in loam 
and peat. 

Scutella^ria cretica, a low shrub from Crete, of the 
easiest culture. 

Pra'^sium mdjus and minus, low frame shrubs of easy 
culture in any light rich soil. 

MYOPO'RIN^. 

Myopo'rum elUpticum, A. R. 283, acuminatum, parvi- 
fdlium, B. M. 1693, tuberculatum, viscosum, debile, B. M. 
1830, diffusum, and oppositifoUum, New Holland shrubs, 
which grow in loam and leaf-mould, and cuttings root in 
sasdy loam under a bell-glass. 

Stenochi^lus gldber, B. M. 1942, B. R. 572, a New 
Holland shrub of the same culture as Myopdrum. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



371 



ACANTHA^CEiE. 

JusTi'ciA Adhdfoda, B. M. 861, hyssopifolia, and 
orchioides, shrubs which grow in loam and peat, and are 
easily increased by cuttings in sandy loam under a bell- 
glass. 

RuE^LLiA strepens, Idctea, and bifldra, perennials of com - 
mon culture. 

LENTIBTTLA'RE^. 

PiNGUi'cuLA lutea, B. R. 126, an annual from Carolina, 
of the usual culture. 

PRIMULA CE^. 

Cy'clamen persicum, B. M. 44, a pretty little plant 
already noticed in Part I. 

Anaga'llts /rii^icosa, B. M. 831, latifolia, MonelU, and 
linifolia, pretty little biennials, of easy culture and increase 
in peat sand and vegetable mould. 

Samo^lus liftordlis, an aquatic or marsh perennial from 
New South Wales, which is best grown in a pot of loam and 
peat immersed in water to the brim, but not more. 

Co'ris monspeliensis B. M. 2131, a biennial of common 
culture. 

GLOBULA'RliE. 

Globula^ria longifolia, B. R. 685, Aly'ssum, and sjn- 
nosa, shrubs which grow well in loamy soil, and cuttings 
root in sandy loam under a hand glass. 

PLUMBAGFNE^. 

Plumba^go tristisy a Cape shrub, of easy culture in loamy 
soil. 

2 B 2 



372 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Stati'ce cordata, echioides, piirpHrafa, pectinafa, suf- 
fruticosa, monopetala, sinudta, B. M. 71, aldta, and mu- 
crondta, perennials whose culture has been already noticed. 
There are some frame species so hardy as to be considered 
mere alpines. 

NYCTAGrNEiE. 

MiRA^BiLis dichotoma, jaldpa, with several varieties. 
B. M. 371, hy'brida, and longifldra, perennials with fusi- 
form roots, which grow freely in any rich light soil, and 
seed abundantly, or may be preserved during winter like 
the Potato or Georgina. 

Piso'nia grmidis, a New Holland shrub, which may be 
treated as the common myrtle. 

AMARANTHA^CEiE. 

AcHYRA^NTHES mvea, a Canary shrub of common cul- 
ture in any light soil. 

Alternanthe^ra polygonotdes, a perennial of common 
culture. 

Iresi^ne celosioides, a frame perennial from America, of 
he easiest culture in peat soil. 

CHENOPO^DEiE. 

Saltco^rnia ardhica, a shrub from Arabia, which grows 
freely in rich light soil not over-watered, and cuttings root 
in the same soil under a hand-glass. 

Camphoro^sma monspeliaca, a low heath -like shrub, of 
no beauty, which grows in any sandy soil, or in lime rub- 
bish, and is easily increased. 

Chenole^a diffusa^ a silvery-leaved little plant which 
grows readily in a rich light soil^ and cuttings root in sand 
under a bell-glass. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 373 



Chenopo^dtum mulUfidLim and anfhelmmticum, plants 
of no beauty, but of the easiest culture in light soil. 

Be'ta pdtula, a Madeira biennial, which grows in sandy 
loam and is increased by cuttings or seeds. 

Salso'la prostrata, a low shrub of the culture of Sail- 
cdrnia. 

Anaba^sis tamariscifdlia, a shrub from Spain of the 
easiest culture in light sandy soil. 

Bo' SEA Yervamora, a tree from the Canaries, which 
grows freely in loam and peat, and ripened cuttings root in 
sand under a bell-glass. 

Gale^nia africana, a Cape shrub which grows in loam 
and peat, and cuttings root in sandy loam under a hand- 
glass. 

A^TRiPLEX glauca and albicans, shrubs of similar culture 
to Salicdrnia. 

Rhago^dia hastata, a shrub from New South Wales 
which may be treated as Chenolea. 

POLYGO^NEyE. 

Atrapha'xis spindsa and undulata, a perennial and shrub 
of the usual culture in light sandy soil. 

Ru'mex Lunaria, giganteus and arifdlius^ Docks of easy 
culture in hght soil. 

Poly'gonum tincforium, a biennial from China of the 
usual culture. 

Brunni'chia cirrhdsa, a chmbing shrub from Carolina, 
which grows in loam and peat_, and is increased by cuttings. 

LAURFNE^. 

Lau'rus Camphdra, glauca, mdica, foe' tens, canariensisy 
Borbdnia and carolinensis, evergreen shrubs which grow in 
loam and peat, and cuttings root in sand under a bell-glass 
on a little moist heat. 



374 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



PROTEA CEiE. 

The culture of all the genera of this order is so nearly 
the same, that we shall merely enumerate the species. The 
culture has been given in the selection in Part I. 

Petro' piiYh A pulcheUa, B. M. 796, and diversifoUa, 

Isopo'gon anethifolius, B. M, 697, formdmSf anemoni- 
folius, and trildbus. 

Prote'a cynaroidesj B. M. 770. 



P. latifolia, B.M. 1717. 
P. compdcta. 
P. longifldra. 
P. speciosa, B; M. 1183. 
P. ohtusa, A. R. 110. 
V.formosa, B. M. 1713. 
P. melaleuca, A. R. 103. 
P. Lepidocarpon^ A. R. 301 
P. neriifdlia, B. R. 208. 
P. pulchella, B. R. 20. 
V. patens, A. R. 543. 
P. magnlfica, A. R, 438. 
P. longifdlia, B. R. 47. 
P. umhondlis, A. R. 144. 
P. ligulcBfolia, A. R. 133. 
P. melUfera, B. M. 346. 
P. grandifldra, B. R. 569. 
P. minima. 

Leucospe'rmum candici'ms, A. R. 294. 



P. Scolymus, B. M. 698. 
P. miicronifdlia, B. M. 933. 
P. nana. 
P. pendula, 
P. tenax. 

P. canaliculdta, A. R. 437, 
P. acuminata, B. M. 1694. 
P. acaulis, B. M. 2065. 
P. acerosa, B. R. 577. 
P. glaucophy'Ua. 



P. scdhra. 
P. turhiniflora. 
P. S CO lop end num. 
P. corddta, A. R. 289, B.M. 

649. 
P. amplexicaulis. 



h.formosum, A. R. 17. 
L. linear e. 
L. tottum. 
L. medium. 
L. ellipticum. 
conocdrpum. 



L. grandifldrum, 
L. puherum. 
L. tomentdsum. 
L. pdrile. 
h. hypophy'llum. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



375 



Mime'tes hlrta, palusfris, cucullata, divaricdfa, vaccini 
folia, and purpurea. 

Serru'ria abrotanifdlia, A. R. 522. 



S. millefdlia, A. R. 337. 
S. pinndta, A. R. 512. 
S. artemisicpfdlia, A. R. 264. 
S. ar en aria. 
S. cyanoides. 

S. pedunculata, A. R. 264. 
S. Niveni, A. R. 349. 
S. cilidta. 

S. phylicoides, A. R. 507 



S. ce'mula. 

S. pdrilis, A. R. 507. 
S. odordta, A. R. 545. 
S. emarginafa, A. R. 536. 
S. gloraerata. 
S. decipiens. 
S. Roxhurgii. 
S. Burmdnni. 
S. elongata. 



and 4. 

Nive'nia Sceptrum, spathiddta, spicdta, media, and 
crithmifdlia, A. R. 293. 

Soroce'phalus imberbis, spatallotdes, tenuifdlia^ landta, 
and imbricdta, A. R. 317. 

Spata'lla proUfera, incurva, A. R. 429, and Thunbergii. 

Persoo'nia hirsuta, B. C. 327, linearis, B. M. 760, sa- 
Ucinay and lanceoldta, A. R. 74, B. C,,75. 

Grevi'llea serkea, B. M. 862. 



G. linearis, A. R. 272, B. C 

50. 
G. ripdria. 
G. arendria. 
G. acuminata, 
G. sfyldsa. 

H.AKEA piigionifdrmis, B. C. 353 



G. mucronitlata. 
G. buxifdlia, A. R. 218, 

B. R. 443. 
G. colUna. 
G. aspera. 



H. pdrilis. 
H. obltqua. 
H. gibbdsa. 
H. aciculdris. 
H. suaveolens. 
H. fldrida. 



H. ilicifolia. 

H. n/^ick, B. M. 2246. 

H. amplexicaidis. 

H. prostrd fa, 

H. ceratophy'Ua. 

H. unduldta. 



376 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Hakea oleifdlia. H. dactyloides. 

H. sallgna, A. R. 215. H. elUptica. 

H. cinerea. 

Lambe^rti A /ormosa, A. R. 69, B. R. 528, B. C. 80. 

Xylome'lum pyriforme. 

Telo'pea speciosissima, B. M. 1128. 

Loma'tia silaifolia, B. M. 1272. 

L. longifolia. 

Rhopa'la dentctta and sessilifdlia. 
Ba'nksia pulchella. 



B. sphcerocdrpa, 
B. nutans. 

B. ericifdlia, B. M. 738. 

B. spimddsa, A. R. 457. 

B. colUna. 

B. occidentalis. 

B. littordlis. 

B. marginata, B. C. 61, 

B. M. 1947. 
B. integrifolia. 
B. verticilldta. 
B. cocclnea. 

Drya'ndra florihunda. 
D tenuifdUa. 
D. cunedta. 
D. armdta. 
D. formosa. 



B. paluddsa, B. R. 697, 

B. C. 392. 
B. oUongifolia, B. C. 241. 
B. latifolia. 

B. marcescens, A. R. 258. 

B. attenudta. 

B. .serra^a, A. R. 82. 

B. ^B'mw/a, B. R. 688. 

B. quercifdlia. 

B. speciosa. 

B. grdndis. 

B. repens. 

D.plumosa. 
D. ohtusa. 
D. nivea. 

D. longifolia, B. M. 1582. 



Atj'lax pinifolia, A. R. 76, and umhelldta, A. R. 248. 
Leucode'ndron argenteum. 



L. plumdsum. 
L. imhricatum. 
h.buxifdUiim. 
L. Levisdnm. 
L. linifdJium. 



L. tortum. 
L. cinereum, 
L. corymbbsum, 

B. R. 402. 
L. decorum. 



A. R. 495, 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



377 



L. concolor, A. R. 207. 

L. grandiflorum. 

L. decurrens. 

L. strictum. 

L. virgatum. 

L. adscendens. 

L. concinnum. 

Brabe^jum stellatum. 



L. salignum. 

L. uligindsum. 

L. Jldridim, A. R. 572. 

L. ce'muliim, A. R. 429. 

L. abietinum, A. R. 461. 

L. scdbrum. 



THYMEL.EVE. 

PiMELE^A linifolia, B. M. 891, rosea, B. C. 88, B. M. 
1458, and paucijld7' a f B.C. 179, heath-looking little shrubs 
from Australasia, grown in loam and peat, and increased by 
young cuttings in sand. 

Strvthio' L\ juniper ma, B. C. 75. 



S. ere'cto, B.C. 74 B.M. 222. 
S. ovdta, A. R. 119, B. C. 
141. 

S. imbricdta, A. R. 113. 



S. tomentosa, A. R. 334. 
S. virgdta, A. R. 139. 
S. cilidta, A. R. 149. 
S. pubescenSf B. M. 1212. 



Handsome shrubby plants, which grow in sandy loam 
and peat, and are increased by young cuttings planted in 
sand and covered with a bell-glass. 

Da'phne oddra, B. M. 1587, a handsome evergreen shrub 
from China, which grows in loam and peat, and is best pro- 
pagated by grafting on any hardy sort. 

Gni^dia pinifdlia, B. R. 19, B. C. 7. 



G. imberbis, B. M. 1463. 
G. simplex, B. M. 812. 
G. capitata. 



G. oppositifdlia, B. R. 2, 

B. C. 16. 
G. sen'cea, A. R. 225. 



Handsome Cape shrubs, which require the same treatment 
as Struthidla. 

PasserTna filifdrmis. 



P. hirsuta, B. M. 1949. 
P. tenui flora. 



capitata. 
unifldra. 



378 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 

P. yrandifldra, B. M. 292. P. Idxa. 
P. spicata, B. C. 311. 

Elegant evergreens, of the same culture as Struthiola, 

Lachn^e^a conglomerata. 

L. eriocephala, B. M. 1295. 

L. purpurea, B. M. 1594, B. C. 273. 

L. glaiica, B. M. 1658. 

L, buxifolia, B. M, 1657. Culture as in Struthiola. 

Da' IS continifdiia, B. M. 147^ a handsorae Cape shrub, 
which like most others from that country thrives well in loam 
and peat. It may be increased by cuttings of the roots 
placed in a warm situation. 

SANTALAXEtE. 

The'sium amplexicaiile, a Cape shrub, which grows well 
in sandy loam and peat, and cuttings root freely under a 
hand-glass. 

Fu'chsia coccinea, B. M. 97, llycioides, B. M. 1024, the 
first, one of the handsomest-flowering shrubs of the green- 
house, and the second also beautiful. Culture already given 
in Part I. 

OsY^Ris alba, a shrub from the South of Europe, of easy 
culture and increase in sandy loam. 

FusA^NUS compressus, a Cape shrub, of common culture. 
Hamilto'nia oleifera. 

EL^A'GNEiE. 

El^a'gnus orientalis, a Levant shrub, of common culture 
in sandy loam. 

ASARIN^. 



Artstolo^chia glauca, B. M. 1115, sempervfrens^ B. M. 
1116, B. C. 231, rotunda, hrria, and arhorescens, free-grow- 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 379 



ing climbers in loam and peat, which are increased by cut- 
tings in the same soil under a hand-glass. 

EUPHORBIA^CEiE. 



Eupho'rbia Caput -MeduscB. 



E. tessellata. 

fructusplna. 
E. procumbens. 
E. pdtula. 

E. anacdntha, B. C. 220. 

E. cldva. 

E. mauritdnica. 

E. Lamar ckii. 

E. hamdta. 

E. Ormthopus. 

E. aphy'Ua. 

E. balsamifera. 

E. atropurpurea. 

E. piscatdria. 

E. mellifera, B. M. 1305. 



E. prunifolia. 

E. tuber osa. 

E. Z«c^a. 

E. genistoides. 

E. spindsa. 

E. nummular icefolia. 

E. Pithy usa. 

E. Par alias. 

E. juncea. 

E. aleppica. 

E. serrdta. 

E. spathidasfolia. 

E. sylvdtica. 

E. imbricdta. 

E. Characias. 



These are singular plants, shrubby and herbaceous, and 
some very unlike others, being low massy succulents with 
few leaves. These require very little water and a poor 
sandy soil : the others, and especially the South of Europe 
species, grow in hght rich soil kept moist. Cuttings of most 
of the species root freely in sand : those of the succulents 
should be dried before planting, and some of them strike 
the better for a little bottom heat. 

Cro'^ton maritimum, a shrubby plant from Carolina, 
which grows in sandy soil, and is increased by cuttings in 
sand. 

Rici^NUs africdnus and Uvidus, Cape shrubs, which grow 
in loam and plenty of leaf-mould, and may be increased 
either by seeds or cuttings. 



380 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Stilli^ngia sylvatica, a Carolina perennial;, of easy cul- 
ture in peat soil. 

Mercuria'lis elliptica, a Portugal shrub, of easy culture 
in sandy soil. 

Eu^CLEA racemosa and unduldta. 

ExccECA^RiA serrdtay a Chili shrub, which may be treated 
as Crdton. 

Cluy^tia alternoides, B. M. 1321, poly gono ides, daph- 
7ioides, ericoides, polifolia, tomentosa, pidchella, B. M. 
1945, coUhia, shrubs from the Cape, which grow in loam 
and peat, and are increased by young cuttings in sand 
under a bell-glass. 

Hyjena'nche globosa. 

URTI'CE^. 

FoRSKO^LEA cdndida, a Cape perennial, of common cul- 
ture in loam and peat. 

GuNNE^RA perpensa, a Cape perennial, which grows in 
sandy loam, and is increased by dividing at the root or by 
cuttings. 

U'rtica niveay a Chinese nettle, which grows in light soil, 
and is increased by dividing at the root. 

Bcehme'ria rubesceiis, a Canary shrub, of the easiest 
culture. 

Fi'cus corddta, macrophy'Ua, austrdlis, eldstica, stipu- 
lata, pumila, dspera, and capensis. Trees, shrubs, and 
creepers or climbers, of the easiest culture and propagation 
in any light rich soil. 

ULMA^CEiE. 

U^LMUS chinensis, a Chinese tree, of easy culture in 
light rich soil. It may be increased by grafting on any of 
the hardy species. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 38l 



AMENTA CE.E. 

My'rica (Bthidpica, serrata, lacinicda, quercifolia, and 
cordifolia, evergreen shrubs from the Cape^, which thrive in 
loam and peat, and cuttings root under a hand-glass. 

Casuari'na eqiiisetifdUa, B. C. 607, strkta, A. R. 346, 
disty'la, toruldsa, and quadrivdlvis. 

Curious Australasian trees of little beauty, but valuable 
where there is room, as they flower from November to 
February. They grow in loam and peat, and are increased 
by cuttings in sand under a hand-glass. 

CONl'FEREJE. 

Pi'nus canariensis and longifdlia, evergreen trees from 
the East, which grow in loam and peat, and cuttings will 
root in sand under a hand-glass, but not readily. 

CuNNTNGHAMiA lanceolMa is most easily struck. 

Thu^ja cupressoides, an African evergreen shrub, which 
may be treated like Piniis, 

T. juniperozdes and australis may be treated in the same 
manner, but they are oftenest raised by seeds procured from 
abroad. 

Podoca'rpus macrophy' llus, verticlUdtus, and elongatus, 
trees or shrubs from the East, which grow in loam and peat, 
and cuttings root readily in sand under a hand-glass. 

Arauca^ria imhricdta and excelsa, trees from Brazil, of 
the nature of the pine or fir kind. They grow in loam and 
peat, and may be struck like Pinus, but with difficulty. 

JuNiPE^RUs bermudiana, chinensis, and harhadensis, trees 
from the West Indies which may be treated like Pinus. 

Ta'xus nuctfera, an evergreen low tree from China, of the 
same culture as Pinus. 



382 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



ALISMA^CEiE. 

Acting c a' Rpus minor, a perennial from New South 
Wales^ of the easiest culture. 

Sagitta^ria sinensis, B. M. 1631^ lancifdlia^ B. M. 1792, 
and graminea, aquatics to be grown in deep water in any 
sort of soil, and increased by dividing at the root. 

ORCHrDEiE. 

O^RCHis longicornis, B. R. 202, and acuminata, B. M. 
1932, perennials from Barbary, which thrive best in chalky 
soil, and when they are in a dormant state they must have 
very little water. They are only to be increased by seeds. 

Bartholi'na pectindta grows in loam and peat, requires 
little water when not in a growing state, and is only to be 
increased by seeds. As the other Orchidece require exactly 
the same treatment, we shall merely enumerate them. 

Sera^pias Lingua and cordigera, A. R. 475. 

O^phrys tenthredimfera, B. R. 205. 

Saty'rtum cucullatum, A. R. 315^ B. C. 104. 

S. cdrneum, B. M. 1512. 

DrsA cornuta, spathulata, and prasindta, B. R. 210. 

Pterygo^dium volucris. 

DisPE^Ris secunda. 

Diu'rus aurea, 

THELYMrTRA ixioides. 

PoGo"^NiA ophioglossoides, 

Calade^nia dlha. 

Glosso'dia major. 

Pterosty^lis ohtusa. 

Cale'ya major. 

Calofo^ Goy! pulchellus, B. R. 116, B. C. 340. 
Arethu^sa bulbdsa. 

Dkndro'bium specidsum and linguifdrme. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 383 



These plants^ unlike most of the others, may be increased 
by dividing at the root. 

IRI'DE^. 

The culture of this family is the same for every genus, 
and, as it has been already given, need not be here repeated. 

Trichone'ma Bulhocddiiim, B. M. 265. 
T. crucidtmn, B. M. 575. 1 T. specidsum, B. M. 1476. 
T. caulescens, B. M. 1392. T. roseiwi, B. M. 1225. 
T.pudicum, B. M. 1244. 

Geissorhi'za Rochensis, B. M. 598, 
G. setacea, B. M. 1255. 
G. obtusata, B. M. 672. 
G.secunda, B. M. 597. 

Hespera^ntha radiata, B. M. 753. 



G. excisa, B. M. 584. 
G. cilidris. 



H.pilom, B. M. 1475. 

H. graminifdlia, B. M. 1254 
Spara^xis tricolor and varieties, B. M. 381 
S. bzcolor, B. M. 548. 

S. grandiflora, B. M. 541, B. R. 258. 
S. bulbifera, B. M. 545. 
I'xiA linearis, B. M. 570, 

I. capilldris, B. M. 617. 
I. aulica, B. M. 1013. 
J.fucdta,B, M. 1379. 
I. patens, B.M. 522. 
I. leucdntha. 
l.flexudsa, B. M. 624. 
I. hy'brida, B. M. 127. 
I. conica, B. M. 539. 
I. monadelpha, B. M. 607. 
I. columelldrisj B. M. 630. 



R.falcdta, B. M. 566. 
H. cinnamdmea, B. M. 1054. 



1. ovdta, A. R. 23. 
I. mridifldra, A. R. 29. 
I. ochroleiica, B. M. 1285. 
I. ereda, B. M. 623 and 
1173. 

I. crater otdes, B. M. 594. 
I. retusa, B. M. 629. 
I. scilldris, B. M. 542. 
1. crispa, B. M. 599, 
I. capitdta, A. R. 159, 



Anomathe'ca j2^wc£'a, B. M. 606. 



384 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Trito'nia crispa, B. M. 678. 



T. vtridis, B. M. 1275. 
T. rosea, B. M. 1531. 
T. capensis, B. M. 618. 
T. longi flora, B. M.256. 
T. tenuifldra, B. M. 1502. 
T. concolor, B. M. 1502. 
T. Rochensis, 1503. 
T. pallida. 
T. lineata, B. M. 487. 

Watso^nia spicata, B. M. 523 



T. securigera, B. M. 383. 
T.fldva, B. C. 747. 
T. squdlida, B. M. 581. 
T,fenestrdta, B. M. 704. 
T. crocdta, B. M. 184. 
T. deusta, B. M. 622. 
T. minidta, B.M. 609. 
T. refrdcta, B. R. 135. 



W. plantaginea, B. M. 553. 
W. punctdta, A. R. 177. 
W. roseo alba, B. M. 537 

and 1193. 
W. marginata, B. M. 608 

and 1530. 
W. strictifldra, B. M. 1406. 
W. rosea, B. M. 1072. 



W. hremfdUa, B. M. 601. 
W. iridifdUa, B. M. 600. 
W.fidgida, B. M. 600. 
W. Mericma, B. M. 418 and 
1194, 

W. humilis, B. M. 631 and 
1195. 

W. aletroides, 441 and 533. 



Gladio'lus Cundnia, B, M. 343. 



G. Watsdnius, B. M. 450 

and 569. 
G. quadrangularis, B. M. 

567. 

G. viperdtus, B. M. 688. 
G. aldtus, B. M. 586. 
G. namaquensis, B.M. 592. 
G. brevifdlius, B. M. 727 

and 992. 
G. hirsutiis, B. M, 574. 
G. versicolor, B. M. a. 1042. 
G. edulis, B. R. 169. 
G. hastdtus, B. M. 1564. 
G. frtsfis, B. M. 272. 



G. concolor, B. M. 1098. 
G. trichonemifoUus, B. M. 
1483. 

G. grdcilis, B. M. 562. 
G. recurvis, B. M. 578. 
G. cdrneus, B. M. 591. 
G. cuspiddtus, B. M. 582. 
G. bldndus,'B. M. 625. 
G. campaniddtus, A. R. 
188. 

G. augustus, B. M. 602. 
G. invohUus. 

G. undulatus, B.M. 538. 
G.floribundus, B. M. 610. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 385 



G. Byzantmus, B. M. 874. 
G. communis y B. M. 86. 



Gladio'lus Milleri, B. M. 
632. 

G. cardindlis, B. M. 135. 

Melasph^'rula grammea, B. M. 615. 

Antholyza vittzgera, B. M. 1172 and cethidpica, B. M. 
561. 

Babia'na Thunhergii. 
B. ringens. 

B. tubijidra, B. M. 847. 
B. tubdta, B. M. 680. 
B. spathdcea, B. M. 638. 
B. samhudna, B. M. 1019. 
B. disticha, B. M. 626. 



B. pUcdta, B. M. 576. 
B. stnda, B. M. 621 and 
637. 

B. purpurea, B. M. 1052. 
B. villdsa, B. M. 583. 
B. rid>ra cydnea^ B. M. 410. 



Ari'stea cydnea, B. M. 458. 



A. capitata, B. H. 605. 
A. spirdlis, B. M. 520. 



A. melaleiica, B. M. 1277. 
A. pusiUa, B. M. 1231. 



WiTSE^NiA maura, B. R. 5, and corymbdsa, B. M. 895, 
B. C. 254. 

Lapeyrousia corymbdsay B. M. 595^ und fissifdlia, B. M. 
1246. 

Mor^e'a angusta, B. M. 695. 



M. minuta, A. R. 404. 
M. pavonia, B. M. 1247. 
M. tripetala, B. M. 702. 
M. ediilis, B. M. 613 and 
1238. 

M. longiflora, B. M. 712. 
M. tristis, B. M. 577. 
M. cr/spa, B. M. 1284. 



M. bituminosa, B. M. 1045. 
M. viscdria, B. M. 587. 
M. ramdsa, B. M. 771. 
M. barbigera, B. M. 1012. 
M. dlidta, B. M. 1061. 
M. Sisyrmchium^ B.M. 1407. 
M. papiliondcea, B. M. 750. 



Iris morceozdes, B. M. 693. 

Boba^rtia gladidfa, B. R. 229, B. M. 983. 

Paterso^nia sericea and glabrdta, B. M. 1041 and 50. 

Ferra'ria unduldta, B. M. 144, and antherdsa, B.M. 751. 

Gala' XI A ovdfa, A. R. 94, B. M. 1208, grandiflora, 

2 c 



386 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



A. R. 164, mucronularis, versicolor, and gramhiea, B. M. 
1292. 



H^MODORA'CE^. 

Wachendo^rfia thyrsifldra, B. M. 1080. 
W. paniculdfa, B. M. 616. I W. hirsuta, B. M. 614. 
W. graminea. \ W. brevifdlia. B. M. 1166. 

Bulbs which may be treated like the Iridece. 

DiLA^TRis corymbosa and viscdsa. Bulbs of the same 
nature as those of Irzdece. 

Hmmodo'rvm planifdlium, B. M. 1610, a New Holland 
perennial, which grows chiefly in loam and peat, and is 
increased by dividing at the roots. 

Argola^sia plumdsa may be treated like Hcemoddrum. 

Anigoza'nthus Jidvida, B, M. 1151, may be treated like 
HcEmodorum, with rather more water when in a growing 
state. 

AMARYLLFDE^. 
Hma'nthus coccmeus, B. M. 1075, B. C. 240. 



H. coarctatus, B. R. 181. 
B.,rotundifdlius, B.M. 1618. 
H. pumceus, B.M. 1315. 
H. dlhiflos, B. M. 1239, 

B. C. 602. 
H. tigrinus, B. M. 1705. 



H. quadrivdlvis, B.M. 1523. 
H. pubescens, B. R. 382. 
H. maculatus. 
H. lancecefdlius. 
H. carinatus. 
H. Pumtlio, 



Cape bulbs which grow in sandy loam with a little peat: 
they require no water when not in a growing state, and are 
increased by offsets. 

Struma^ria truncdta. 
S. rubdla. 
S. angustifblia. 
S. lingucefdlia. 
S. filifblia. 



S. spirhlis, B. M. 1383. 
S. crispa, B.M. 1363. 
S. stelldris, 

S. gemmdta, B. M. 1620. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



387 



CnrNUM pedunculafum, B. R. 52. 

Cyrta^nthus angustifdlius, B. M. 271. 
C. coUlnus, B. R. 162. C. obliquus, B. M. L133. 

C. spiralis, B. R. 167. 

Gastrone'ma unifldrus, B. R. 168. 

Brunsvi'gia JosephiKKE, and J. minor, B. R. 192 and 
193. 



B. multifldra, B. M. 1619. 
B. margindta. 
B. Rddula. 

B.falcata, B. M. 1443, B.C. 
745. 



B. striata. 

B. toxic aria, B. 

B. R. 567. 
B. cilidris. 



M. 1217, 



A beautiftd family of bulbs, some of which grow to a 
great size, and require large pots to have them flower in 
perfection. They grow in sandy loam with a little peat; 
and require ample supplies of water when in a growing state, 
but very little when dormant. They are increased by offsets 
or seeds. 

Amary'llis chloroleuca. 
A. PumiUo. 
A. purdica. 

A. formosissima, B. M. 47. 
A. bldnda, B. M. 1450. 
A. Belladonna pallida, B.M. 



A. sarniensis, B. M. 294. 
A. venusta, B. M. 1090. 
A. radidta. A. R. 95, B. R. 
596. 

A. unduldta, B. M. 369. 
A. hmnilis, B. M. 726. 
A. flcxudsa, B. R. 172. 
A. longifdlia, B. M. 661, 

B. R. 303. 
A. revolida, B. M. 915 and 
L178, B. R. 615. 

This genus thrives best in a rich loamy soil, and with 
spare waterings after having done flowering. The species 
are increased by offsets ; or ' a shell or coat taken from the 

2 C 2 



733, B. R. 714. 
A. vittdta, B. M. 129. 
A. purpurea, B. M. 1430, 

B. R. 552. 
A. curvifolia, B. M. 725. 
A. corusca, S. M. 1089. 



388 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



bulb with a leaf on it, and planted in a pot of sandy soil, 
will produce a bulb, as will almost any bulbous-rooted 
plant.' {Bot Cult. 131.) 

Pancra'tium carolinianum and canariense, B. R. 174, 
bulbs which grow in light loam, and are increased by offsets 
and seeds. 

DoRYA^NTHEs Bxcelsa, B. M. 1685, an elegant plant 
which grows in sandy loam and peat, but does not flower 
till it gets large, and should therefore be planted in a con- 
servatory. It is increased by suckers. 

Gethy'llis spiralis, B. M. 1088, ciliaris, villdsa, and 
lanceolata. Cape bulbs which grow in sandy loam and peat, 
and are otherwise of common bulb culture. 

HEMEROCALL?DEiE. 

Blandfo'rdia ndbilis and grandifldra, beautiful plants 
which grow^ in sandy loam and peat, and are increased by 
suckers or seeds. 

Agapa^nthus umhellatus, B. M. 500, B. R. 699, and 
prcEcox, handsome plants which thrive in loam with a little 
rotten dung, and are increased by dividing at the root. 

Trito'ma uvdria, B. M. 758. 

T. media, B. M. 744. 

T.pumila, B. M. 764, B. C. 444. 

Frame plants which will grow in any light soil, and are 
increased by dividing at the root. 

Velthei'mia viridifblia, B. M. 501, and glauca, B. M. 
1091, Cape bulbs which grow in light loamy soil, and are 
increased by offsets or leaves. 

Polya'nthes fuberosa, B. R. 63 (see Parti.) 

Tulba'ghia alliacea, B. M. 806, and cepacea. Cape 
bulbs which grow in sandy loam and peat, and are increased 
by offsets or seeds. 



1 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 389 



Brodi.e'a grandifldra and congesta, American herbaceous 
plants of the usual culture in loam and peat. 
A'loe purpurdscens, B. M. 1474. 



A. soccotrma, B. M. 472. 
A, arbor escens, B. M. 1306. 
A.ferox,B. M. 1975. 
A. flavispma. 
A. picta, B. M. 1323. 
A. latifdlia, B. M. 1346. 
A. saponaria, B. M. 1460. 
A. serrulata, B. M. 1415. 
A. mitrafdrmis, B. M. 1270. 
A. nobilis. 
A. dlstans. 

A. brevifolia, B. M. 1362. 
A. depressa, B. M. 1332. 
A. suher^cta. 

A. acuminata, B. M. 1322. 

A. tubermlata. 

A. humilisy B. M. 757. 

A. incurva, B. M. 828. 

A. stridtula, 

A. glauca, B. M. 1278. 

A. vlrens, B. M. 1355. 



A. nigricans, B. M. 838. 
A. Lingua, B. M. 979. 
A. angiistifolia. 
A. longifolia. 
A. obtusifolia. 
A, imbricata, B. M. 1455. 
A.foliolosa, B. M. 1352. 
A. tortudsa. 
A. r/(/i'(ia, B. M. 1337. 
A. viscosa, B. M. 814. 
A. incurva, B. M. 802. 
A. reticulata, B. M. 13 14. 
A. recurva, B. M. 1353. 
A. micracentha, B. M. 455. 
A. mirdhilis, B. M. 1354. 
A. pumila, B. M. 1361. 
A. i;/rew.s, B. M. 1345. 
A. attenudta, B. M. 1345. 
A. minima, B. M. 1360. 
A. minor, B. M. 815. 
A. Hawdrthii. 



A. variegata, B. M. 513. 

These are succulents from the Cape, most of them of very 
humble growth, and all of them singular in appearance. 
They grow best in sandy loam mixed with a little lime rub- 
bish or gravel, and flower the better for being exposed to the 
open air in summer. They are increased by suckers, or 
cuttings of the shrubby kinds, or leaves stripped off the 
plants and laid on a pot of mould, or planted shallow in it;, 
will produce young plants. 



390 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



SMILA'CE^. 

Opmopd Gos japonicus, B. M. 1063, a frame perennial 
from Japan, which grows in light rich soil, and is increased 
by dividing at the root. 

Tri'llium pumilum, a perennial from Carolina^ which 
grows in loam and peat^ and is increased by dividing at the 
root. 

Smi'lax excelsa, China, australis^ latifdlia, glyciphy^lla 
(Botany-bay Tea), and Pseudo-China, climbing shrubs 
which grow freely in loam and peat, and young cuttings root 
in sand under a hand-glass. 

Ta'mus etephantipes, B. M. 1347:, a curious Cape plant, 
which grows in rich light soil, and must not be over- watered. 
It is rare, and has not yet been propagated ; but Mr. Sweet 
is of opinion it will increase by cuttings in sand in bottom 
heat. 

Ru'scus androgy^nus, B. M. 1898^ a climbing shrub 
from the Canaries, which grows in rich light soil, and is in- 
creased by dividing at the root, 

TULIPAXEiE. 

Fritilla'ria lutea, B. M. 1538, a bulb which grows in 
sandy loam, and is increased in the usual manner. 

Yu'ccA aloifblia, B. M. 1700, serruldfa and dracdnis, 
evergreen shrubs with large long leaves, which thrive in rich 
loamy soil, and are increased by suckers. 

Erythro^nium dens canis, dog's-tooth violet. 

BROMELIA^CEiE. 

A^GAVE americdna, A. R. 438^ Milleri, angustifolia, vir- 
ginica, B. M. 1157, and gemmifloray succulent evergreens, 
which thrive well in rich loamy soil, and are increased by 
suckers. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 391 



ASPHODE^LEiE. 

Myrsiphy' LLUM asparagozdes and angustifdlium, her- 
baceous climbers which grow in sandy loam and peat, and 
are increased by dividing at the root. 

Euco'mis nana, B. M. 1495, purpureocauUs, A. R. 369, 
bifdlia, B. M. 840, regia, undulata, B. M. 1083, punctata, 
B. M. 913, and striata, B. M. 1539, Cape bulbs, which 
grow in any rich light soil, and are increased by offsets or 
seeds, or by leaves. 

SowERB^^A juncea, B. M. 1104, a New Holland peren- 
nial, which grows in peat soil kept moist, and is increased 
by dividing at the root. 

A'llium ChdmcB-Moly , B. M. 1203, a bulb of common 
culture and propagation in any light rich soil. 

Albugo A altissima. 



A. physddes, B. M. 1046. 
A. exuvidfa, B. M. 871. 
A.frdgrans. 
A. viscdsa, 

A. spiralis, 

A. fastiyidta, A. R. 480, 
B. R. 277. 



A. major, B. M. 804. 
A. minor, B. M. 720. 
A. fldccida. 

A. viridifldra, B. M. 1656. 
A. coaretdta. 
A. caudata. 
A. setdsa, B. M. 1481. 
A. vittdta, B. M. 1329. 

Bulbs which thrive in sandy loam and leaf-mould, and 
are increased by offsets or leaves. 

Xanthorrce^a hastilis, minor and bracteata, perennials 
which grow in loam and peat, and are increased by offsets 
from the roots. 

Thysano^tus junceus grows freely in loam and peat, and 
is increased by dividing at the roots. 

Eriospe^rmum latifolium, B. M. 1382, lanccefolium, 
parvifdlium, and folioliferum, A. R. 521, tuberous-rooted 
plants which grow in loam and peat, and are increased by 
offsets or seeds. 



392 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Ornitho'galum nlveum, 
O. Idcteum, B. M. 1134. 
O. revolutum, B. M. 653, 

B. R. 315. 
O. eldtum, A. R. 528. 
O. latifdlium, B. M. 876. 
O. scilloides. 
O. prdsinum, B. R. 158. 
O. odordtum, A. R. 260. 
O. barbdtum. 



B. R. 235. 
O. rupestre. 

O. ardhicum, B. M. 728. 
O. aureurriy B. M. 190. 
O. flamssimum. 
O. coar datum. 
O. cauddtum, B. M. 805. 
O. unifolium, B. M. 953 and 
935. 

O. Squilla, B. M. 918. 



Cjuncifdlium, B. M. 972. 

Bulbs which grow in sandy loam and peat, and are in- 
creased by offsets or seeds. 

Sci'lla hrevifoliay B. M, 1468, requires the same treat- 
ment as Ornithogalum. 

Masso^nia latifolia, B. M. 848. 



M. angustifolia, B. M. 736. 

M. uadulata. 

M. ensifdlia, B. M. 554. 



M. muricdta, B. M. 559. 
M. scdhra, B. M. 642. 
M. echindta. 
M. paucifldra. 

Cape bulbs which grow in sandy loam and peat, and 
require to be shifted annually when just beginning to grow; 
water must be sparingly supplied till they have made abun- 
dance of roots, and must be totally withheld when they are 
in a dormant state. They are increased by offsets and seeds. 

ANTHERrcuM frdgrans. 



A. vespertinum, B. M. 1040. 
A. graminifdlium. 
A. trifldrum. 

A. canaliculdtum, B. M. 1124. 



A. flexifolium. 
A. filifdrme. 
A^florihundum. 

A. revolutum, B. M. 1044. 
BuLBrNE asphodeloldes. 

B. dnnicum. B. latifdlium. 
B. nutans. B. rostrata. 

Shrubby, succulent, bulbous, and annual plants, which 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 393 



grow in light sandy soil with the pots well drained, and are 
increased by cuttings, offsets, dividing at the root, or by 
seeds. 

Arthropo^dium paniculatum, B. M. 1421, may be 
treated like Eriospermum. 

Chloro'phytum elatum grows in loam and leaf-mould, 
and is increased by offsets or seeds. 

C^'siA vittafa may be treated like C hlordphy^tum. 

Diane'lla coerulea, B. M. 505, and divaricdta, plants 
from New South Wales, which grow in loam and peat and 
are increased by dividing at the root. 

Eu'sTREPHus latifdlius, B. M. 1245, a New Holland 
climber, which is increased by dividing at the root or by 
cuttings. It grows in loam and peat with sand, and flowers 
in June and July. 

As pa' RAG us declinatus. 
A. decumbens. A. acufifolius. 

A. scdndens. A. flexudsus. 

A. r etr of r actus. A. aphy'llus. 

A. asidticus. A. suhulatus. 

A. cethiopicus. A. capensis. 

A. dlhus. 

Shrubs, chiefly evergreens and climbers, which grow in 
sandy loam, and are increased by dividing at the root, or 
cuttings under a hand-glass without bottom heat. 

Dri'mia altissima, B. M. 1074. 



D. eldfa.B. M. 822. 
D. cilidris, B. M. 1444. 
D. pusilla. 



D. lanc(Efdlia, B. M. 643, 

B. C. 278. 
D. revolufa, B. M. 1380. 



Cape bulbs which grow in sandy loam and leaf-mould, 
require to be fresh potted just when they are beginning to 
grow, and are increased by offsets or seeds. 

Urope'talon lonyifdlium. 
U. fjlaucum, B. R. 156. I U. serotmum, B. M. 859. 



U. crispum. I V.fuhum, B. M. 1185 



394 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



Lachena^lia glauctna. 
L. orchioldes, B. M. 1269. 
L. pallida, B. R. 287, 314. 
L. hyacinthoides. 
L. angustifolia, B. M. 735. 
L. contamindta, B. M. 1401. 
L. pdtula. 
L. frdgans. 

L. umcolor, B. M. 1373. 
L. lucida, B. M. 1372. 
L. racemdsa, B. M. 1517. 
L. pustulatay B. M. 817. 
h. purpurea -coerulea, B. M, 
745. 

L. nervosa, B. M. 1497. 
Cape bulbs of low growth. 



L. molacea. 

L. hifolia, B. M. 1611. 
L. rosea, A. R. 296. 
L. unifolia, B. M. 766. 
L. sessilifldra, A. R. 460. 
L. isopetala. 
L. tricolor, B. M. 89. 
L. luteola. 

L. quadrlcolor, B. M. 588 

and 1097. 
L. rubida, B. M. 993. 
L.pendula, B. M. 590, B. C. 

267. 

which grow in loam and leaf- 



mould, require little water when not in a growing state, and 
are increased by offsets or seeds. 

Alstrceme^ria Pelegrina, B. M. 139, a fine plant, which 
grows in loam and leaf-mould, and is increased by dividing 
at the root or by seeds, which as they soon lose their vege- 
tative power should be sown when ripe. 

Pho^rmium tenax ihnse?, in any rich light soil^ and is in- 
creased by offsets from the root. 

HYPOXPDE^. 
Hypo^xis sohoUfera, B. M. 711. 



H. villosa, 
H. decumbens. 
H. obh'qua, A. R. 195. 
H. aquatica. 
H. alba. 

H. obtksa, B. R. 159. 
H. ovata, B. M. 1010. 

Cape bulbs which may be treated like Lachenalia 



H. stellata, B. M. 662. 
H. elegans, B. M. 1223. 
H. veratrifolia. 
H. linearis, A. R. 171. 
H. serrdta, B. M. 709. 
H. juncea. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 395 



CuRCu^LiGO plicata, B. R. 345, may also be treated like 
Lachenalia, 

MELANTHAT.E^. 

Melanthi'um monopetalum, B. M. 1291. 
M. junceunij B. M. 558. M. cape?ise. 

M. secundum. M. unifldrum, B. M. 767. 

Cape bulbs which thrive in loam and peat, and are in- 
creased by offsets or seeds. 

RESTIA'CE^. 

Xy'ris operculdta, B. M. 1158, B. C. 205, thrives in 
peat soil, and is increased by dividing at the root. 
WiLLDENO>iA teres may be treated as Xy^ris. 
Re'stio teddrum is of the same culture as Xy\is. 
Ele'gia jwncea, and racemosa, may be treated like Xy^ris. 

COMMELI'NEi. 

CoMMELi^NA a/nmna, B. M. 1431, grows in sandy loam, 
and is increased by dividing at the root or by seeds. 

CA'NNE^. 

Ca'nna patens, B. R. 576^ grows in loam and peat, and 
is increased by dividing at the root or by seeds. 

Tha'lta dealbdia, B. M. 1690, grows in loam and peat, 
either in or out of a cistern of water, and is increased like 
Cdnna. 

SCITAMFNEiE. 

ZTngiber Mioga, Japanese Ginger, may be treated like 
Cdnna. 



CYPERAXE^. 
All the plants of this Genus are of the grassy or sedgy 



396 THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 



kind, and grow in loamy soil or loam and peat, and are in- 
creased by dividing at the root or by seeds. They are plants 
of no beauty whatever. 

Cy^perus elegans, alopecur aides, and hddius. 

Ca^rex appressa, 

AROFDEiE. 

Ca'lla ceihidpica may be treated as an aquatic, and 
grown in deep water in pots of rich loam, or it will grow in 
loam and peat on the common stage of the green-house. It 
is increased by suckers. 

A' RUM crmitum, terndtum, and Arisdrum, frame herba- 
ceous plants, which grow in sandy loam, and are increased 
by suckers or dividing at the root. 

GRAMrNEiE. 

All the Grasses grow in any common soil, and are in- 
creased by dividing at the root or by seeds. 
Pa^spalum stoloniferiim. 
Ehrha^rtia panicea. 
Andropo'gon muticus. 

FLUVIA^LES. 

Aponoge^ton distdchyon, B. M. 1293, and angusfifd- 
lium, B. M. 1268, aquatic bulbs which grow in loam and 
peat plunged in a cistern, and are increased by offsets or 
seeds. 

FILl'CEiE. 

All the Ferns grow in loam and peat, and are increased 
by dividing at the root or by seeds. 

AcRo^sTicHUM Lingua, alcicdrne, B. R. 262-3, velleum. 
Allanto^dia umbrdsa. 
AsproiuM axilldre and cB'mulum. 



THE GREEN-HOUSE CATALOGUE. 397 

Asple'^nium monanthemum and rhizophy'Uum. 

Pte'ris arguta and esculenta. 

Ble^chnum australe. 

Woodwa'rdia rddicans. 

Doo^DiA dspera, B. C. 39. 

Adia^ntum renifdrme, 

Cheila'nthes pteroides, frdgrans, and elongatum. 
D AVA^LLT A pyxiddta and canariensisy B. C. 142. 
DicKso'^NiA Culcita. 

GENUS WHOSE NATURAL ORDER IS NOT YET 
ASCERTAINED. 

Laurophyllus capensis, a Cape shrub, which may be 
treated as Hamiltonia. 



INDEX. 



ACA'CIA, page 76, 


77, 119, 299 


Amygd^lus, 322 


Acae'na, 322 




Anabasis, 373 


Achillea, 343 




AnacEimpseros, 94, 3 


Achyrdnthes, 372 




Anagallis, 371 


Acr6stichum, 397 




Anagy'ris, 309 


Actinocarpus, 382 




Anchiisa, 364 


A'cynos, 370 




Andersonia, 358 


Adenandra, 302 




Andromeda, 352 


Adiantum, 397 




Andropogon, 366 


Agapanthus, 99, 38g 




Andryala, 347 


Agathosma, 303 




Anemone, 109 


Agave, 93, 390 




AnigozElnthus, 386 


Ageratum, 337 




Anomatheca, 383 


Aitunia, 298 




Anthemis, 343 


Aizoon, 93, 332 




Anthericum, 94, 392 


Albuca, 391 




Anthocercis, 366 


Alcina, 345 




Antholy'za, 99, 385 


Allant6dia, 397 




Anthospermum, 348 


A'llium, 391 




Anthy'llis, 317 


A'loe, 93, 388 




Antirrhinum, 367 


Aloy'sia, 86, 362 




Aotus, 312 


Alstroemeria, 394 




Aponogeton, 396 


Alternanthera, 372 




Araucaria, 381 


Aly'ssum, 240 




A'rbutus, 352 


Amaryllis, 100, 102, 


3S7 


Arctopusj 337 


Amellus, 343 




Arctotheca, 344 


Amurpha, 316 




Arctotis, 87, 345 



400 



INDEX. 



Ardfsia, 359 
Arduina, 362 
Arenaria, 249 
Arethusa, 382 
Argolasia, 386 
An'stea, 99, 385 
Aristolochia, 378 
Artemisia, 339 
Arthropodium, 393 
A'rum, 396 
Asclepias, 362 
Ascy^ruin, 263 
Aspalathus, 315 
Asparagus, 393 
Aspidium, 397 
Asplenium. 397 
Astelma, 339 
A'ster, 341 
Astragalus, 320 
Astroluma, 359 
Alhanasia, 339 
Atragene, 235 
Atraphaxis, 373 
A'triplex, 373 
A'trrtpa, 365 
Aulax, 376 
Azalea, 351 
BabiElna, 100, 385 
Baccharis, 340 
Bse'ckia, 325 
BalsaiHita, 339 
Banksia, 120, 376 
Baptisia, 310 
Barosma, 78, 302 
Bartholina, 382 
Bartonia, 328 
Beaufortia, 82, 120. 327 
Bejaria, 352 
Belladonna Lily, 387 
Berckheya, 345 
Beta, 373 



Bidens, 338 
Bignonia, 121, 268, 363 
Billardiera, 121, 260 
Biscut^lla, 239 
Blee'ria, 352 
Blandfordia, 388 
Blechnum, 397 
Boehmeria, 380 
Bobartia, 385 
Borbonia, 314 
Boronia, 120 
Bosea, 373 
Bouvardia, 347 
Brabejum, 377 
Brachysema, 120, 311 
Brodiffi^a, 388 
Browallia, 366 
Brunia, 82, 308 
Brunnichia, 373 
Brunsvfgia, 100, 387 
Bubon, 337 

BMdlea, 84, 119, 366 
Bulbine, 392 
Buphthalmum, 343 
Bupleurum, 336 
Bursera, 259 
Burtonia, 311 
Bystropugon, 369 
Cacalia, 94, 338 
Cactus, 335 
Cse'sia, 393 
Caladenia, 382 
Calauiintha, 370 
Calceolaria, 366 
Calendula, 345 
Caleya, 382 
Calistachys, 120, 311 
Calla, 396 
Callicarpa, 361 
Callicoma, 336 
Calopogon, 382 



INDEX. 



401 



Galothamnus, 120, 327 
Camellia, 33, 119, 298 
Campanula, 350 
Camphorosma, 372 
Carapy'lia, 270 
Canarina, 350 
Canna, 395 
Capraria, 366 
Capsicum, 365 
Cardamine, 240 
Carex, 396 
Cassia, 83, 119, 313 
Cassine, 308, 346 
Casuanna, 381 
Ceanothus, 307 
Celastrus, 306 
Celsia, 85, 366 
Centaurea, 345, 348 
Cephalophora, 337 
Ceratonia, 322 
Cereus, 335 
Cestrum, 365 
Chelianthes, 397 
Cheiranthus, 241 
Clienolea, 372 
Clienopodium, 373 
Chironia, 85, 349 
Chloranthus, 347 
Chlorophytum, 393 
Chorizema, 310 
Chrysantliemum, 114, 342 
Chrysobalanus, 323 
Chrysocoma, 338 
Cichorium, 347 
Cineraria, 77, 341 
Cissampelos, 238 
Cistus, 80, 244 
Citrus, 71, 119, 299 
Clematis, 86, 121 
Clerodendrum, 361 
Clethra, 120_, 352 



CUffortia, 324 
Cluynia, 380 
Cneorum, 304 
Cnicus, 348 
Cubjea, 121, 363 
C6don, 148 
CoUinsonia, 368 
Colutea, 119 
Comraelina, 395 
Cuniuni, 336 

Convolvulus, 81, 121, 363 
Cony^za, 340 
Coreopsis, 345 
C6ris, 371 
Coronilla, 83, 121 
Corrae^a, 80, 304 
Cosmea, 343 
Cotula, 343 
Cotyledon, 93, 334 
Crambe, 239 
Crassula, 333 
Crepis, 347 
Crinum, 100, 387 
Crfthmum. 337 
Crocus, 110 
Crotalaria, 81, 119, 316 
Croton, 379 
Crowea, 120 
Crucianella, 347 
Cryptostigia, 121 
Cucurbita, 328 
CuUumia, 345 
Cunonia, 336 
Cunninghamia, 381 
Cuphea, 324 
Curculigo, 395 
Curtisia, 304 
Cuscuta, 364 
Cussonia, 336 
Cyclamen, 95, 371 
Cyclopia, 309 

2 D 



402 



INDEX. 



Cydonia, 323 
Cytianchum, 362 
Cynara, 348 
Cynogldssum, 364 
Cy'perus, 396 
Cy'phia, 351 
Cyrilla, 352 
Cyrtanthus, 100, 387 
Cy'tisus, 318 
Dalea, 320 
Dais, 378 
Daphne, 377 
Datura, 120 
DavMia, 397 
Daviesia, 120, 313 
Dendrobium, 382 
Dianella, 393 
Dianthus, 248 
Dicksonia, 397 
Dichondra, 364 
Didelta, 345 
Digitalis, 367 
Dilatris, 386 
DillwyViia, 312 
Dimacria, 271 
Diomedia, 343 
Dionae'a, 247 
Di6srna, 78, 303 
DiospyVos, 360 
Disa, 382 
Disandra, 368 
Disperis, 382 
Diuris, 382 
Dodonoe^a, 305 
D61ichos, 121, 317 
Djo6dia, 397 
Doryanthes, 388 
Dory'cnium, 321 
Dracocephalum, 87, 370 
Dn'mia, 393 
Diyandra, 120, 376 



E'chium, 364 
Kchites, 363 
Edwardsia, 309 
Ehrh^rta, 396 
Ekebergia, 298 
Elaeagnus, 378 
Elseocarpusj 264 
Elaeodendrum, 306 
Elegia, 395 
Elephantopus, 346 
E'nipetrum, 352 
Empleurum, 304 
Encilea, 345 
Etikianthus,352 
Epacris, 81, 120, 358 
Epipliy^llum, 335 
Epildbium, 329 
Erica, 35, 353 
Erigeron, 340 
Erin us, 367 
Eriobotrya, 323 
Eriocephalus, 346 
Eriospermum, 391 
Erodium, 270 
Erythr£e^a, 350 
Krythrfna, 314 
Erythronium, 390 
Eucaly'ptus, 326 
Edchilus, 312 
Edclea, 165, 380 
Eucomis, 391 
Eugenia, 326 
Eu6nynaus,306 
Eupatorium, 337 
Euphorbia; 379 
Eustrephus, 393 
Eutaxia, 120, 312 
E'xacum, 349 
Exccecaria, 380 
Fabricia, 325 
Fag6nia,301 



INDEX. 



Falkia, 364 
Farsetia, 240 
Ferraria, 101,385 
Ffcus, 380 
Forskohlea, 380 
Frans^ria, 346 
Fritillaria, 390 
F6chsia, 83, 120, 375, 378 
Fusanus,378 
Galanthus, 110 
Galaxia, 385 
Galenia, 373 
Gardenia, 120,347 
Gastrolobium, 120, 312 
Gastronima, 387 
Gaura, 328 
Gazania, 345 
Geissorhiza, 100, 383 
Genista, 79, 314 
Georgina, 114 
Gerttnium, 56,271 
Gethy^llis, 388 
Gladiolus, 99,102,384 
Gledltschia, 322 
GUnus, 329 
Globularia, 154, 371 
Glos.sodia, 382 
Glycine, 121, 317 
Gnaphalium, 82 
Gnidia, 79, 120,377 
Gomphocarpus, 362 
Gompholobium, 31 1 ^, 
Goodia, 120, 316 
Gordonia, 120, 254 
Gorteria, 345 
Gvevillea, 120, 375 
Grewia, 259 
Grielum, 272 
Grindella, 342 
Gunnera, 380 
Heemanthus, 101,386 



Haemondorum, 386 
Hakea, 375 
Halieria, 366 
Hallia,312 
Hamiltonia, 164, 378 
Hebenstreitia, 361 
Hedy^sarum, 319 
Helenium, 342 
Helianthemum, 80, 245 
Helianthus, 343 
Helichry\sum, 339 
Heliophila, 240 
Heliotropium, 84, 364 
Hermannia, 120,256 
Hermas, 337 
Hesperantha, 100, 383 
Hibbertia, 121, 236 
Hibiscus, 253 
Hieracium, 346 
Hippia, 346 
Hippocrepis, 319 
Hoarea, 272 
H6v-ea, 120, 317 
Hove Ilia, 307 
Hoy a, 121 
Hudsonia, 352 
Humea, 120, 338 
Hyacinthus, 106, 107 
Hyaenache, 166,380 
Hydrangea, 335 
Hydroc6tyle, 336 
Hymenopappus, 338 
Hyoscy^amus, 365 
Hypericum, 263 
Hypuxis, 394 
Hy'ptis, 369 
I'beris, 238 
Hex, 306 
lIliciLim, 81, 237 
Indigofera, 81 
Inula, 342 

2 D 2 



404 



INDEX. 



Insects and diseases of greenhouse 

plants, 170 
lonidium, 244 
Ipomee'a, 364 
Ipomopsis, 363 
Iresfne, 372 
I'ris, 101, 385 
Isopogon, 374 
I'xia, 98, 100, 3S3 • 
Ixodia, 338 
Jacksonia, 311 
Jacobea lily, 387 
Jasminum, 83, 361 
Jenkinsonia, 268 
Jonquil, 109 
Juniperus, 381 
Jussieua, 329 
Justicia, 371 
Kalmia, 352 
Kennedia, 318 
Knowltonia, 236 
Lachenalia, 99, 394 
LachnaeX 378 
Lambertia, 120,376 
Lanaria, 386 
Lantana, 119 
Lapeyrousia, 101, 385 
Larochea, 333 
Lasiopetalum, 255 
Lavandula, 369 
Lavatera, 79, 252 
Laurophy'llus*, 397 
Laurus, 373 
Leonotis, 369 
Lepidium, 239 
Leptospeimum, 325 
Leucadendron, 376 
Leucopogon, 359 
Leucospermum, 374 

* The order to which this plant be- 
longs has not yet been ascertained. 



Leysera, 342 
Liatris, 337 
Lidbeckia, 343 
Lightfootia, 350 
Ligustrum, 360 
Limeum, 334 
Linaria, 367 
Linum, 87, 247 
Lithospermum, 364 
Lobelia, 350 
Loddigesia, 316 
Logania, 349 
Lomatia, 376 
Lonfcera, 121, 336 
Lotus, 79, 320 
Luffa, 327 
Lupinus, 317 
Ly'chnis, 249 
Ly'cium, 366 
Ly'thrum, 324 
Magnolia, 237 
Mahernia, 255 
Malope, 253 
Malva, 80, 250 
Manulea, 367 
Murrilbium, 369 
Marsdenia, 362 
Marshallia, 338 
Marty'nia, 363 
Massonia, 392 
Matthiola, 241 
Matricaria, 343 
Maurandia, 236,367 
Mazas, 366 
Medicago, 321 
Melaleuca, 78, 120, 327 
Melananthera, 338 
Melanthiura, 395 
MelasphaeVula, 385 
Melia, 298 
Melianthus, 301 



INDEX. 



405 



Mentha, 369 
Menlzelia, 328 
Mercurialis, 380 
Mesembryanthemum, 329 
Mespilus, 323 
Metrosideros, 119, 325 
Michauxia, 350 
Microloma, 362 
Mignionette, 111 
Mikania, 337 
Mi metes, 375 
Mimulus, 367 
Mirabilis, 372 
Mirb^lia, 313 
Monotoca, 359 
Monsonia, 268 
Montmia, 329 
Moree^ 101, 385 
Morfna, 349 
Murraya, 299 
Mussae^oda, 347 
Myoporum, 370 
My'rica, 381 
Myrsine, 77, 359 
Myrsiphynium,391 
My'rtus, 77, 326 
Nandine, 238 
Narcissus, 108 
Nemesia, 367 
Nerium, 83, 119, 362 
Nicotiana, 365 
Nivenia, 375 
NotelfK^a, 360 
Notoc6ras, 241 
O^chna, 264 
O^cymum, 370 
OEdera, 346 
GEnotliera, 328 
Onea, 360 
Ononis, 317 
Onosmaj 364 



Ophiopogon, 389 
0>hrys, 382 
O'rchis, 382 
Origanum, 369 
Ornithogalum, 107,391 
Osmites, 345 
Osteospermum, 345 
OsyVis, 378 
Othdnna, 345 
0\xalis, 265 
Oxyldbium, 310 
Psederia, 348 
Peeonia, 78, 235 
Pancratium, 99, 388 
Paspalum, 396 
Passerina, 377 
Passiflora, 243 
Patersonia, 385 
Pavonia, 254 
Pedicularis, 367 
Pelargonium, 121,274 
Penee^a, 358 
Pentstemon, 363 
Periploca, 362 
Persian iris, 107 
Persoonia, 375 
Petrophila, 374 
Peucedanura, 337 
Pharnaceum, 250 
Phlomis, 120, 369 
Phormium, 394 
Phy'lica, 308 
Phy'llis, 348 
Physalis, 365 
Phyteuma, 350 
Pimelea, 121, 377 
Pingui'cula, 371 
Pinkneya, 347 
Pmus, 121, 381 
Piqueria, 338 
Pisonia, 372 



406 



INDEX. 



Pistacia, 305 
Pittosporum, 80, 260 
Platylobium, 83 
Plectraothus. 370 
Plocama, 348 
Plumbago, 371 
Podaly'ria, 310 
Podocarpus, 381 
Podolepis, 342 
Podolobium, 310 
Pogonia, 382 
Polifchia, 156 
Polianthes, 101. 388 
Poly'gala, 7S, 121 
Polygonum, 373 
Pomaderris, 307 
Portulacaria, 334 
Prasium, 370 
Prenanthes, 3J6 
Pnnos, 309 
Prismalocarpus, 350 
Procama, 348 
Prostanthera, 236, 370 
Protea, 76, 119, 374 
Prunus, 322 
Psoralea, 320 
Pteris, 397 
Pterdnia, 348 
Pterosty'lis, 382 
Pterygodiiim, 382 
Pultense'a, 80, 313 
Punica, 326 
Pyrethrum, 343 
Rafnia, 315 
Ranuneulus, 109 
Reaumuria, 332 
Reseda, 241 
Restio, 395 
Retzia, 364 
Rhagodia, 373 
Rhamnus, 307 



Rhexia, 324 
Rhododendron, 352 
Rhopala, 376 
Rhus, 304 
Ricfnus^ 379 
Roella, 350 
Rosa, 121,323 
Rosmarinus, 368 
Royena, 360 
Rubia, 347 
Rubus, 323 
Rudbeciua, 343 
Riiellia, 371 
Rumex, 373 
Ruscus, 390 
Ruta, 301 
Sagittaria, 382 
Salicornia, 372 
Salsula, 373 
Salvia, 368 
Samolus, 371 
Sapfndus, 259 
Sarcophy'llura, 315 
Satureja, 369 
Saty'iium, 382 
Saxifraga, 335 
Scabiosa, 349 
Schinus, 306 
Schrankia, 321 
Scilla, 102, 392 
Sclerocarpus, 345 
Sclerothamnus, 312 
Scottia, 316 
Scrophularia, 367 
Scutellaria, 370 
Sebeckea, 315 
Secamone, 362 
Sedum, 334 
Selago, 361 
Selinum, 337 
Sempervivum, 94 



INDEX. 



407 



Senecio, 341 
Septas, 94, 333 
Ser§,pias, 382 
Serissa, 348 
Serruria, 375 
Sersalisia, 360 
Sfda, 250 
Sideritis, 369 
Sideroxylon, 360 
Silene, 249 
Sinapis, 241 
Sisy'mbrium, 240 
Smilax, 390 
Snowdrop, 110 
Soliva, 346 
Solanum, 365 
Sunchus, 345 
Sorocephalus, 375 
Sowerbae'a, 391 
Sparaxis, 97, 383 
Sparrmannia, 259 
Spartium, 314 
Spatalia, 375 
Sphseranthus, 348 
Sphaerolobium, 312 
Spbenogy ne, 345 
Spielmannia, 86 
Spiralepsis, 339 
Staavia, 308 
Stachys, 369 
Stachytarpheta, 361 
Staehelina, 348 
Statice, 86, 372 
StauracsLnthus, 315 
Stenanthera, 121, 359 
Sterculia, 255 
Stenochilus, 370 
Stevia, 337 
Stillingia, 380 
Stobee^a, 348 
Stoe'be, 346 



Stokesia, 348 
Strumaria, 100, 386 
Struthiola, 77, 119, 377 
Stylidium, 351 
Styphelia, 359 
Sutherlandia, 82 
Swainsonia, 82 
Tagetes, 342 
Tamus, 390 
Tanacetum, 339 
Tarchoiianthus, 338 
Taxus, 381 
Teedia, 366 
Telopia, 376 
Templelonia, 316 
Tephiosia, 320 
Tetragonia, 329 
Tetratheca, 243 
Teucrium, 368 
Thalia, 395 
Thea, 33 
Thely'mitra, 382 
Thesium, 378 
Thuja, 381 
Thy'mbra, 369 
Thy'mus, 370 
Thysaiiotus, 391 
Tiarella, 335 
Tigridia, 101, 110 
Tournefortia, 364 
Trachelium, 120, 350 
Trichonema, 100. 383 
TricliosEinthes, 328 
TrfUium, 390 
Tristania, 121, 327 
Tritonia, 388 
Tritonia, 98, 384 
Tropeedlum, 264 
Tulbaghia, 388 
Tulipa, 108 
Tussila^o, 340 



408 

U^mus, 330 
Urena, 253 
Uropetalon, 392 
UVtica, 380 
Vaccinium, 352 
Vella, 239 
Veltheimia, 388 
VerMscum, 365 
Verbena, 362 - 
Verbesina, 343 
Viburnunij 336 
Vfcia,318 
Villarsia, 349 
Viminaria, 311 
Vi61a, 244 
Virgilia, 309 
Vitex, 361 
Wachendorfia, 386 
Watsonia, 10, 3084 



INDEX. ^ 

Westriiigia, 120, 369 
Wiborgia, 316 
Willdenovia, 395 
Witsenia, 102, 385 
Woodwardia, 397 
Xanthorrhoe^a, 391 
Ximenesia, 342 
Xylomelurn, 376 
Xy'iis, 395 
Xysmalobium, 362 
Yucca, 390 
Zaluzania, 343 
Zanthoxylum, 306 
Zapania, 362 
Zieria, 121 
Zingiber, 395 
Zizy'phus, 307 
Zygophyllum, 300 



THE END. 



London: Printed by W. Clowes, Stamford-street. 



f 



